Advertisement
Having tapered the keel from the bearding line aft as previously instructed on page 3, the first planking, of 1.5x5mm lime, can
be started below the gunport pattern.
The first plank to be laid each side is a length of 1.5x5mm lime trimmed to 1.5x3mm. This plank will run from the notch in the
gunport pattern at bulkhead 7, around to the bows as shown on Plan Sheet 1 and (Photo 006). The second plank is of 1.5x5mm
lime and also runs from bulkhead seven to the bow, the lower edge of this plank should form a continuous line with the lower
edge (aft) of the gunport pattern (Photo 007).
The third plank and the remainder of the first planking is from 1.5x5mm lime and will run the whole length of the hull bearing
in mind the following points:
1.
Ensure all bulkhead bevelling has been achieved.
2.
The planking will commence from the underside of the gunport pattern down to the keel, each plank should be
pinned and glued into position with PVA wood glue. As the plywood bulkheads are very strong, it is
recommended that 0.5mm holes be drilled into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the
brass pins into the planks and bulkheads, leave at least 3mm protruding so that they can be easily removed once
the planks are secure.
3.
Before pinning and gluing the lime planking into position, it should be soaked in water for a short period. This
will assist in both the shaping of the plank around the hull and the tapering of the plank.
4.
At the bows, the planking should lie against the already bevelled plank termination patterns and butt up against
the stem. For guidance, the lime planking will follow the line of the gunport pattern.
5.
At the stern, the lime planking should terminate flush with the after face of bulkhead 10. Where the planking runs
against the underside of bulkhead 10 you may find it beneficial to bevel and secure some scrap 5mm ply wood to
the forward face of bulkhead 10, thus increasing the surface area for gluing the planks to.
6.
On the underside of the hull, the sides of the final planks will butt up against the false keel.
Note: For best results, all planks should be allowed to lie naturally, do not try to artificially bend them with nippers / plank
benders, or force them into position. As you start down to the curved side of the bow, the planks will need to be tapered to
follow their natural run. In order to determine the amount of taper required for each plank to lie naturally, lay the plank from
the 4th bulkhead around to the bow; mark the excess area of the plank that overlaps the plank immediately above it. Repeat this
process for the stern also.
Before cutting the taper into the planks, soak them in warm water for an hour or so as this will minimise the chance of the
knife blade following the grain of the wood rather than the edge of the steel rule.
Lay the first wet plank to be tapered on a clean, flat surface (a cutting mat is ideal). Press firmly with a steel rule onto the
marked taper line on the plank and score down the line with a heavy-duty craft knife several times until the excess is cut off
(do not attempt to cut the plank in one pass!).
Use this planking method right down the hull. When planking is almost complete you will notice triangular shaped gaps at the
stern (and bow to a lesser degree). This was also the case in full size practise, although not so simplified. The use of triangular
shaped planks (called stealers) are needed for these gaps. Cut these to shape using the excess limewood from the ends of the
planking and glue them into the gaps (shown in Photo 008 and Photo 009 for the second planking but the first planking uses
the same principles).
Trim the excess stern planks at bulkhead 10 to shape, apply a coat of watered down PVA wood glue to the inside surface of the
first planking and leave the hull to fully cure for at least 24 hours.
The next stage is to sand the hull with a coarse grade abrasive paper, followed by a medium grade. This will obviously entail a
few hours work but it will form the basis for the second planking, remember to remove all pins before sanding begins.
The building cradle (16-18) can now be constructed; ideally this should be squarely and firmly secured to a building board of
your choice.
6
Photo 006
First Planking
©
2004 JoTiKa Ltd.
Photo 007
Advertisement
