Advertisement
Lower and Upper Cheeks
Identify and remove the lower pair of cheeks (128) from the 2mm walnut sheet. These cheeks sit on top of the wale and against
the prow. In order to achieve a good fit, each side of their respective faces should be bevelled accordingly. When you are
satisfied with the fit, they can be glued into position.
Upon completion, the front curved edge should be painted French blue, the top should be varnished and the underside can be
painted dull black to blend into the wale.
Identify and remove the upper cheek (127) from the 2mm walnut sheet, clear the head timber slots and offer it into position in
the slot in the stem (the knee of the head). Some filing may be required to the front face of this slot in order to allow the top
leading edge of the cheek to lie flush with the continuation of the curve in the stem. The bottom face of the slot will also
require some sanding to allow the upper cheek to run parallel with the lower cheeks below. Both upper and lower cheeks
should run parallel with each other separated by a 4mm gap as shown on Plan Sheet 1, 'Hull detail' (Photo 030). A small
amount of the after edges of the upper cheek will require some bevelling to ensure it fits flush against the hull. When you are
satisfied with the fit and alignment, the cheek can be glued into position. The leading edges are painted French blue, as with
the lower cheeks, however, the top and bottom faces should both be left natural and varnished.
Identify and remove the hawse hole bolsters (131) from the 2mm walnut sheet. Glue the bolster into position noting that the
inboard edge (the edge closest to the stem) of the bolster should be located 7.5mm from the stem. This is to ensure that the
inboard bower anchor hawse hole is correctly located and will not foul the plank termination patterns when drilled out. Once
the bolster has been glued into position as described, the hawse holes themselves can be drilled through the hull using a small
pilot drill and then enlarged to 3.5mm diameter to match the hawse hole bolsters (Photo 030). The bolster is left natural but
varnished to seal.
The Headrails
Identify and remove the headrail (184) from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. Offer the headrail into position, the forward end is
located against the back of the stem and with the outboard face of the headrail running into the outboard face of the stem. The
after end is located against the hull and the forward end of the cathead knee continuation piece to form one continuous run. The
headrail itself has been cut longer than required and should be trimmed a little at a time from the front edge until a good tight
fit is achieved (Photo 030).
When you are satisfied with the fit of the headrail it should be painted French blue on the outboard face and all other faces are
left natural but varnished to seal. The headrail can now be secured into position.
Identify and remove the head timbers (132 & 133) from the 2mm walnut sheet. There are two pairs, the longer pair are the fore
head timbers (132), the shorter pair the after head timbers (133). The head timbers are notched at one end and this end fits onto
the top and into the head timber slot of the upper cheek. The opposite end leads up and should be secured against the underside
of the headrail, with the outboard edge of the head timber running in flush with the outboard face of the headrail. The head
timbers have been cut longer than required and should be trimmed a little at a time from the upper edge until a good tight fit is
achieved. The headrails should be painted French blue on their outboard face, the remaining faces are left natural and
varnished to seal (Photo 030).
Identify and remove the hair bracket (244) from the brass etched sheet. This bracket should be painted French blue and fitted
into position against the stem, forming a continuation of the upper cheeks as shown on Plan Sheet 1, 'Hull detail'.
Photo 029
Photo 030
©
26
2004 JoTiKa Ltd.
Advertisement
