Advertisement
Topmast Shrouds:
The topmast shrouds are set up in a similar manner to the lower mast shrouds using the appropriate size material as shown on
Plan Sheet 6. There is a pair of 0.75mm brass futtock staves on the topmast shrouds positioned and secured as already
described above, there are no catharpins.
Note: The upper and lower deadeyes should be uniformly spaced with a 12mm jig.
Topgallant Shrouds:
Although no deadeyes are used, the main topgallant shrouds are set up in a similar manner to the lower and topmast shrouds.
The first pair is tied off to the topmast futtock stave, passes up through the hole in the end of the first topmast crosstree, leads
round the topmast hounds as shown and passes back down through the hole in the second topmast crosstree and is secured to
the futtock stave. Again the shrouds should be tied with a simple clove hitch close under the hounds.
The third main topgallant shroud is paired with the main topgallant backstay. It is tied off to the topmast futtock stave, passes
up through the hole in the third topmast crosstree, round the mast head and then leads down to the main backstay stool where a
3mm deadeye is seized into the end and set up to a second 3mm deadeye in the stool with 0.1mm natural thread.
Note: The deadeyes are spaced with a 12mm jig.
There are no mizzen topgallant shrouds.
Ratlines:
This stage will require a considerable amount of time and patience but the end result will be its own reward.
For the main lower shrouds, before starting, a length of 0.75mm brass must be cut to the length of the spread of the shrouds
(including the main backstay) and secured directly above the position where the lanyards have been secured to the shroud, to
form a shroud batten as shown on Plan Sheet 6.
0.1mm natural thread is used for the ratlines and is secured to each shroud with a clove hitch as shown on Plan Sheet 6,
'Rigging detail'. They should be uniformly spaced approximately 5mm apart, from the shroud batten up to the futtock stave.
Leave about 15mm of excess thread at each end of each row of ratlines; this will make the process of trimming the ends much
easier.
Note: For the main lower mast, the main backstay (7th shroud) is omitted for the first five ratlines above the deadeyes, that is
to say the ratlines are only rigged to the 1st – 6th shrouds. The sixth ratline is also rigged to the main backstay (7th shroud).
The next 5 ratlines then omit the main backstay (7th shroud), and the next ratline again includes the main backstay (7th
shroud), this sequence continues up to the futtock stave as shown on Plan Sheet 6.
The mizzen shrouds and backstay (4th shroud) are all rigged with ratlines, spaced at 5mm intervals (no omissions). However,
no shroud batten is required; this is effectively formed by the mizzen shroud pinrail.
The topmast shrouds, main topgallant shrouds and all futtock shrouds are also all rigged with ratlines spaced at 5mm intervals
(no omissions), also without shroud battens.
When all the ratlines are finally rattled, stain them by carefully brushing on black Indian ink. Before applying the ink cover the back
of the shrouds with paper to ensure no drops of ink are spilt on the deck. When the ink has dried it may be necessary to pull the ends
of the ratlines to bring the shrouds back to shape as a slight shrinking may have occurred as the ink dried. Finally cut off the excess
thread with a small sharp pair of scissors.
Bowsprit:
The bowsprit can now be glued into position through the forecastle deck and into the mast step, ensuring that the cap remains
vertical both from the front and side views. The bowsprit is also held in position by one set of gammoning of 5 turns in 1mm
black thread. The gammoning passes over the bowsprit in front of the gammoning cleats, down past the headrails and through
the gammoning slot in the stem.
Note: With five turns of gammoning in place, do not cut or tie off the end, instead pass it around the centre of the gammoning,
within the headrails, five times and secure off to itself.
Extreme care should be exercised when rigging the gammoning to avoid damaging the headrail and timber assembly.
Driver Boom and Driver Gaff:
It would be normal practice to attach these now, however in order to keep the model to a more manageable size it will be
beneficial to ship them at a later stage as described. If you prefer to ship them now, all required instruction can be found on
pages 57 & 58.
©
45
2004 JoTiKa Ltd.
Advertisement
