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The forecastle is planked with 0.5x4mm maple. Mark the centreline down the forecastle and, referring to Plan Sheet 2,
'Forecastle deck planking', plank either side of this line outwards to the bulwarks, clearing the bowsprit opening and galley
flue opening as you progress. Also, using a length of 8mm dowel for reference, you must file out a notch in the bulwarks to
accept the bowsprit, noting that nothing should be removed from the stem itself as this forms the locating angle and support for
the bowsprit (Photo 17 & Photo 18).
The upper face of the 6mm by 6mm galley flue opening can now be lined (all four sides) with 1.5x1.5mm walnut, and the
whole deck varnished to seal.
The exposed area of the forecastle bulwarks, from the break of the forecastle around to the stem, should now be planked with
1x4mm walnut and painted red ochre (Photo 018).
Note: Unlike the main deck, there is no planking offset on the forecastle as the planks are sufficiently long to run the full
length of the deck.
Identify the stern fascia (167) and stern counter (168) from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. Referring to (Fig 002), temporarily pin the
stern fascia across the stern extensions, there are several points of reference to note when doing this as follows:
1.
The top edge of the fascia should be positioned approximately 1mm down from the top rearmost edge of the
bulwarks. This will allow for the taffrail capping to be fitted at a later stage.
2.
The inner most fascia window openings should have their edges equally spaced between the inner stern
extensions.
3.
The top edge of the lower projections, either side of the fascia, should be level with the top plank of the wale, The
outer edge, slightly in from the projections, should be trimmed flush to the hull sides.
At this stage consideration should be given to the way in which you will glaze the windows. It can either be done at a later
stage when fitting the brass etched window frames by cutting 5 individual pieces to fit into the recessed frame or it can be done
at this stage by securing one continuous length across the inside face of the stern fascia. In either case, PVA should be used to
prevent discoloration.
When you are satisfied with the dry fit of the stern fascia, it can be glued into position; if any pins are used during this stage
you must ensure that they do not distort the natural curve of the stern fascia across the stern extensions. The fascia should not
be painted until the stern decoration is fitted at a later stage.
After soaking in water for a maximum of 30 minutes, offer the stern counter (168) into position. The primary fixing position
to note will be the central opening for the rudder. The counter is slightly oversized to allow for variances in hull planking and
some sanding may be required. The counter should be bevelled top and bottom to allow it to 'feather' into the stern fascia
above and the lower planking under bulkhead 10 below. Great care should be exercised with the counter during this procedure,
particularly at its centre point.
The counter can now be planked athwartships using 1x4mm walnut strip, again the top and bottom planks should be bevelled
to 'feather' in. The planks should also be sanded to maintain the convex shape as necessary (Photo 019).
Two vents should be scored into the counter, one either side of the rudder as shown (Fig 002). They measure 8.5mm wide by
7.5mm high. The brass etched vent hinges (239) can now be glued into position together with the four (two per vent) brass
etched ring bolts (210). The Stern counter should be painted dull black and the brass etched components should be painted matt
(metal) black. Two pairs of 'dummy' tackles can now be rigged of 0.1mm natural thread, from the brass etched ring bolts into
a 0.5mm hole drilled through the counter above the vent.
14
Planking the Forecastle
The Stern Fascia and Stern Counter
Photo 019
©
2004 JoTiKa Ltd.
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