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The Mortar Beds
The assembly of the 10" mortar bed is identical to that of the 13", as follows. Identify and remove the mortar bed base (64/68),
timber baulks (65/69), upper baulks (46/47), cheeks (66/70) and transverse piece (67/71). Using Plan Sheet 2, 'Mortar bed
assemblies' for reference, assemble the mortar pit bases as shown. Glue the timber baulks to the base, ensuring the sides and
after curved edge all align. The transverse piece can next be positioned onto the base, across the forward face of the timber
baulk. Now glue the upper baulk to the timber baulk, again ensuring the sides and after curved edge all align and with the
profiled curved edge of the upper baulk to the top. The cheeks are now fitted against the forward face of the upper baulk and
the top face of the timber baulk. A length of 2mm dowel, 7mm long can now be located into the hole of the mortar bed, this
simulates the iron spindle to locate the bed into the housing base and allows it to rotate.
Identify the correct mortar, chock and hinged trunnion cap for each bed assembly. Position the mortar into the trunnion slot of
the cheeks, and dry fit the hinged trunnion caps, bending them around the mortar trunnion, noting that the end of the hinged
trunnion cap with a hole through it is positioned to the front. When you are happy with the fit, remembering that you must
allow enough 'play' for the mortar to be elevated, secure the hinged trunnion cap into position with superglue. When the glue
has thoroughly dried, drill a hole down into the cheek, through the hole in the hinged trunnion cap, into which a copper eyelet
is to be positioned, with the ring running fore and aft as shown on (Photo 12). Eight more copper eyelets are to be positioned
into the mortar bed as shown on Plan Sheet 9, '13" mortar bed eyelet arrangement' & '10" mortar bed eyelet arrangement'.
The chock can either be glued into position against the underside of the mortar as shown on (Photo 12) or left in the mortar
housing to allow the mortar to lie flat.
Note: The mortar, chock, copper eyelets and hinged trunnion cap should all be painted matt (metal) black, the bed itself is
lightly varnished.
The Upper Gun Deck Planking
The upper gun deck is planked with 0.5x4mm maple. The first planks to be laid on the upper gun deck should run fore and aft
along the outboard sides of the mortar housings as shown on Plan Sheet 2, 'Main deck planking'. This may appear to be
unconventional, but because of the complex shape of the housings, it is the easiest way in which to plank the deck.
Where the planks intersect the locating slots for the curved quarterdeck bulkhead support pillars, these slots should be marked
onto the planking but do not trim the planks at this stage. They are best trimmed off when the curved quarterdeck bulkhead
support pillars are finally positioned, this will allow for any fore and aft or lateral movement required when fitting the
bulkhead. The planking should also run all the way forward to the bows.
Continue to plank the deck outboard to each bulwark. With the outboard deck planked, the central area can now be finished by
working inboard from the first planks laid. Cut, trim and dry fit the planks to ensure they meet accurately at the centre line
drawn on previously. Remember to cut the openings for the masts and hatches etc. as you progress. When the planking is
complete, apply a coat of varnish to seal.
Note: For added authenticity you can lay the planks with a 'three-butt shift' as shown on Plan Sheet 2, 'Main deck planking',
in this case the planks should either be cut to a length of 130mm or laid full length and the join line, every 130mm, scored into
the plank with a sharp knife (visually, this latter method often looks the most appealing). The end of each subsequent plank
should then be offset from its neighbour by 32.5mm such that the ends of every fourth plank only align.
Inner Bulwark Patterns
Identify and remove the inner bulwark patterns (158) from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. When these bulwark patterns are shaped
for fitting it is vital to realise that the profiled slot towards the after end will be positioned to face inboard as it forms an
integral part of the curved quarterdeck bulkhead assembly.
The inner bulwark pattern should be soaked in water, for a maximum of 30 minutes, and then formed around the gunport
pattern shaper. It should be dealt with in the same manner as the gunport pattern; ensuring one port and one starboard inner
bulwark are formed by turning the gunport pattern shaper over.
When you are happy with the shape of the inner bulwark pattern, it can be dry fitted against the inner face of the gunport
pattern, checking that it fits fairly flush along the decking and that the ports all marry up accurately, some light sanding may be
required (any gaps between the inner bulwark pattern and the deck will be covered by the spirketting at a later stage). The
forward edge of the inner bulwark pattern will also require trimming to allow it to butt up against the plank termination
patterns either side of the upright of the keel. When satisfied with the dry fit, glue it firmly into position using clamps where
possible, all the time checking that the gunport cut outs remain aligned.
Lining the Gunports Without Lids
The second through sixth gunports each side do not have lids. They should now be lined using 1x4mm walnut. Glue the lining
into position, bottom and top first then each side. When the lining has been applied and allowed to dry thoroughly it should be
sanded back flush to both the inner bulwark pattern and the outer gunport pattern. The remaining chase ports and cabin lights
with lids will be lined in a different manner at a later stage of construction.
©
10
2004 JoTiKa Ltd.
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