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Cub
Instructions
There really is nothing like a "Cub"! The C.G. version retains the honest, easy to fly qualities that made the full size airplane famous.
With the standard long wing, the model is a very graceful, realistic flyer. It's aerobatic performance tends to be big,round, and slow.
Like the full size airplane, the model can be modified into an aerobatic version byshortening the wings. This "Clipped Wing" option
is a thrilling aerobatic machine that will provide outstanding performance, including point rolls, inside and outside
maneuvers, snaps and spins.
Building is easy, but to prevent simple mistakes, the step-by-step instructions should be followed. Many a modeler has made two
right fuselage sides instead of one right and one left as a results of not following the directions.
The Cub can be finished in any of the unlimited color schemes of of the original airplane.We show three popular types; standard,
sport, and military. Color scheme information's provided later in the instructions.
We're sure that you will enjoy countless hours of flying fun with your Goldberg Cub, just as generations of pilots have had with
theirs!
Additional Items Needed
4-channel (or more) Radio Control Set
CA or Epoxy glue (large)
1/2oz. Thin CA glue
.40 to .61 (.90 4-cycle) R/C engine
13 running ft of covering material ( two
79"
rolls of material)
Paint (fuel-proof, quantity
depends on desired finish)
one 1-1/4" and two 3-1/4" Wheels
1/2" x8" x12" CG R/C Foam Rubber
Optional Tools
CG Engine Test Stand (no. 293)
Propeller balancer
Combination prop/glow-plulg wrench
CG Hinge Slotting Kit (no. 269)
Engine Mounting Option
Drill & Tap, Size No. 43
P.O. Box 818 Oakwood, Ga. 30566 Phone 678-450-0085 Fax 770-532-2163 www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
©copyright 1985 Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd.
Optional Parts
For Door Details
1/16" black CG Color-Stripe tape
Pilot figure (2" Scale)
"Pitts" type muffler (2-cycle only)
Small tube silicone caulk
Zap Formula 560 canopy glue
For optional "Military L-4" Scheme
WWII decals (various manufacturers)
Paint for Fuse Interior
Small spray can (gray)
Paint for Engine Detail
Artist's acrylics, etc.
For simulating tail bracewires
1/16" nom. x36" elastic cord
Optional "Scale" Gear Struts
.025 x1/4" x2" brass strip
CG 1/16" Threaded Couplers (No.
217)
CG Mini-Snaps (No. 210)
5/32" O.D. dia. x 10" brass tube
3/32" O.D. dia. x 7" brass tube
Soldering iron, etc.
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd.
Pt. #2077 issue #2 4-1-94
Tools & Supplies Needed
(You probably already have most of these)
Miscellaneous rubber bands
Wax paper or plastic wrap
Modeling knife or single edge razor blade
Sandpaper block & sandpaper; any grade 100
to 200, and any grade 240 to 320
A few dozen straight pins ("T" pins best)
Light power or hand drill & drill bits (sizes
1/16",
3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", & 1/4")
Three Allen wrenches (1/16" for #6 set screw
and 3/32" for #4 & 7/64" for #6 socket head
screws)
Flat building board (that you can push pins
into)
24" x 60"
Pliers
Small screwdrivers (1/8" and 3/16" blade tips)
Iron for applying covering (small household or
travel iron may be okay.
Masking, drafting, or scotch tape (for Holding
parts during assembly)
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Table of Contents
Related Manuals for Carl Goldberg Products Cub
Summary of Contents for Carl Goldberg Products Cub
- Page 1 Instructions There really is nothing like a “Cub”! The C.G. version retains the honest, easy to fly qualities that made the full size airplane famous. With the standard long wing, the model is a very graceful, realistic flyer. It’s aerobatic performance tends to be big,round, and slow.
- Page 2 Engine & Propeller The Cub flies well using any engine size from .40 to .61 (.90 4-cycle). cubicinch displacement. If you live in a warm climate, or your flying field is approximately Digital propor- 3,000 feet or more above sea level, you should use a .49 engine or larger.
- Page 3 Covering The Model The full size Cub is of wood and metal construction, which is covered with fabric. The fabric is then painted. For your model, fabric types of cov- ering duplicate the fabric appearance of the full size airplane quite realistically. There are many good covering materials available that have good resistance to tearing and punctures.
- Page 4 Wood Parts Identification Be careful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) desired. Save scrap until model is completed, in case you from die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until glued into a should miss a part. Scrap is used also in some building structural unit.
- Page 6 First, glue narrow strip to handle, keeping them square, as shown above left. Then glue wide strip to From 1/4” x3/4” balsa stick material, make stabilizer handle and narrow strip, again keeping things square. (stab) trailing edge (T.E.). Cut balsa carefully to match with plan at ends.
- Page 7 Place fin and rudder over plan and mark hinge location Mark hinge locations for stab and elevator. Using scrap ply from “sanding tool” sheet as a shim, cut slots for hinges as shown. Sand ply if necessary so blade cuts on center. Repeat this method in step 7 for fin and rudder.
- Page 8 II FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY Temporarily position cabin sides in notches. Check f it and ;placement of parts before gluing. Glue cabin sides to fuse. Carefully remove all fuselage (fuse) parts from die-cut sheets. Lightly sand any rough edges. Temporarily position cabin and landing gear (L.G.) doublers on fuse side, checking fit and placement before gluing.
- Page 9 NOTE: Your kit may include an non-updated plan. The 1/4” ply motor mount extension is no longer needed with the change to the fiber filled engine mounts now included with the kit. If you have an older plan, please disregard any reference to the ply extension.
- Page 10 12a. Place fuse sides one on the other, tape rear 12c. With die-cut separation facing out, insert bottom together around the back end. Spread fuse fronts apart, sheet under rubber bands at former “C”, and work it towards tail, slipping it under bands as you go. 12d.
- Page 11 Complete installation of bottom sheet, holding with tape as shown. At tail end, glue bottom sheet to conform to slight bend in fuse sides. Install former B, gently compressing legs to fit into fuse. Lock top tabs in place, then plug lower legs in posi- Trial fit the tail wheel bracket at die-cut separation in tion.
- Page 12 cutouts at each end of mount must be positioned evenly over the slot in the fuse bottom. Glue mount in place. The L.G. braces interlock with L.G.mount, and the slots must be matched to those in the fuse sides. IMPORTANT: the arrow stamped on each braced must be positioned towards the front of the model.
- Page 13 Windshield is not glued in place until pushrods are installed. The balsa tail fin fairings shown in photos below are cut from triangle strip. First, cut two 6-3/4” lengths. Then, taper-sand fairings to curved pointed shape as shown on fuse views on plan. windshield in place on fuse to check fit.
- Page 14 Glue rods into balsa pushrods as shown. Loosely install prop on engine. There should be 1/8” to When dry, taper ends of pushrods and round off corners. 1/4” clearance between back of prop and cowl. bind with strong thread, coat with glue and let dry. Attach cowl to fuse using #2 x 3/8”...
- Page 15 III WING ASSEMBLY SINCE THE WING IS BUILT IN TWO HALVES, AND STEPS 1 TO 27 ARE REPEATED IN THE PROCESS, TWO CHECK BOXES ARE PROVIDED WITH EACH OF THESE STEPS. ONE FOR RIGHT WING AND ONE FOR THE LEFT. THE RIGHT WING IS BUILT FIRST.
- Page 16 Install top L.E. spar in same manner and glue. Using no glue, position ribs 2,3, and 4 in place over- plan. Position notched T.E. on T.E. sheeting, align at wing center. IMPORTANT: the T.E. has a 1/8” wide notch at one end- match this notch with rib 2.
- Page 17 Push tip fully in, engaging front in rib 6a slot. Glue tip securely in place. Glue tip rear to T.E. sheeting and T.E. Starting at rib 6, taper T.E. down to level of ply tip. Try to keep taper straight. Lightly sand. Holding your knife straight up, trim excess sheeting Cut T.E.
- Page 18 WING JOINING & COMPLETION part protrudes too much, slightly sand only the protruding part for better fit. When sanding it is better to take off too little than too much! TEMPORARILY set dihedral joiners in place using die cut clamps provided to hold joiners tight against spars. Be sure RIGHT WING is held firmly against LEFT WING and pin in place as shown above.
- Page 19 10c. Make one aileron horn as shown above. Place wire Glue top sheeting in place, trimming to fit as required. over wing plan to get correct length.Hold wire so bottom of gauge is horizontal. Firmly grasp UNTHREADED end of wire Glue L.E.
- Page 20 With corners stamped “M” towards bottom, position ply horn angle gauge at threaded end of one horn wire, slowly press aileron on other 3/4” end of wire to make a mark. With a small 12b. Use edge of dowel (or sharp tool) to make 1/16” nail, make a hole for the wire.
- Page 21 Set wing in place on fuse, then check and adjust until wing tips are equidistance from rear end. Apply a squiggle of glue to wing and pull nylon fabric down into it. Rub nylon into glue with your finger (cover fin- ger with plastic bag or similar).
- Page 24 COVERING THE FUSELAGE 1. For added realism, the cabin interior may be painted: this is easily done now, before covering, using spray paint such as gray auto primer. Cut and apply top covering (DO NOT COVER stab platform). Important Cut and apply bottom covering to fuse. THE WINDSHIELD IS NOT PERMANENTLY GLUED IN Cut and apply side covering to fuse.
- Page 25 Refer to plan and bend up 1/4” of tail wheel wire. Glue Hinge rudder to fin. eyelet into rudder bottom to match bend. Plug wire into rud- Hinge ailerons to wing (IMPORTANT! When hinging ailerons to wing, der eyelet., then glue and screw nylon bracket securely to be sure to glue strip aileron horn wires into ailerons, but DO NOT GLUE fuse.
- Page 26 Bend, recess and glue second hold-down in bottom of strut end. Attach this hold-down to fuse bottom using a #2 shoulder screw. PILOT FIGURE. A pilot figure adds a final touch of realism to the Cub, especially during those low & slow fly-bys. Assemble and paint the pilot per manufacturer.
- Page 27 “2+1” type (as shown above left and in the main plan view).Either a 2+1 or a 3-abreast can be used in the CUB because of its wide roomy interior. Note: if a tray is not used, the 3-abreast mounting is recommended with servos mounted directly on plywood rails (as shown below the main plan view).
- Page 33 Super Tote Field Box Part # 102...
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