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Black & Decker BPSM1510 Instructions Manual page 10

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If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the
workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood
where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow
it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight
through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece
Turn off and unplug saw.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and
against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.) or your
hand will be within 6" of the blade, a clamp or fixture
must be used.
Other convenient clamps such as spring, bar or C
clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes
of workpieces. Use care in selecting and placing these
clamps and make a dry run before making the cut.
Support for long pieces
Turn off and unplug saw. Always support long pieces. For
best results, use an extension work support to extend the
table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, and other four sided projects
To best understand how to make the items listed here,
we suggest that you try a few simple projects using
scrap wood until you develop a "FEEL" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the
ones shown in FIG. H, which shows a joint made by
setting the mitre arm at 45º degrees to to mitre the two
boards to form a 90º degree corner. To make this type of
joint, set the mitre arm to 45º degrees. The wood was
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and
the narrow edge against the fence.
As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for
a variety of shapes. (The chart assumes that all sides
are of equal length.)
For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the
following formula. 180º degrees divided by the number of
sides equals the mitre.
Cutting compound mitres
The A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and
a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used
to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one
shown in Fig. H.
Note: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob (10) and the mitre clamp handle (4)
are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after
making any changes in bevel or mitre.
Cutting crown molding
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be mitreed
with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given
piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90º degrees. Most, but not all,
crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits
flat against the ceiling) of 52º degrees and a bottom rear
angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38º
Pretesting with scrap material is extremely important!
Place the bottom side (the side that will be against the
wall) against the mitre saw fence. Place the top (that part
that will be against the ceiling) against the saw table and
the crown molding fence.


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