While the ElectriCub is easy to fly, it does not have the total SAFETY PRECAUTIONS self-recovery and stability of a basic trainer like the Great Planes series of PT basic trainers. Therefore, if you have 1. Build the plane according to the plan and instructions. Do...
There motor, will give the ElectriCub a good climb rate and good are three easy ways to “peak-charge” your battery pack. aerobatic capability, but will result in a relatively short run time of 3 to 4 minutes.
Power Systems 10-24 Tap and Drill set Masking tape (TOPR8018) Good: GPMG0755 S-600 Motor System Panel line pen (TOPQ2510) S-600 motor (GPMG0710) 8 x 4 propeller Propeller adapter Optional Supplies and Tools Wiring harness with fuse and micro switch Better: GPMG0760 T600GD System with Gear Drive CG Machine ™...
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES Common Abbreviations Elev = Elevator Fuse = Fuselage 1. Unroll the plan sheets, then reroll the plan inside-out to LE = Leading Edge (front) LG = Landing Gear make them lie flat. Lt = Left Ply = Plywood Rt = Right Stab = Stabilizer 2.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES Build the Fin & Rudder 1. Cover the fin/rudder portion of the plan with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector. 7. From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut and glue the rudder ribs to the frame. 8.
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and glue the die-cut 3/16" balsa elevator frame E-1 through E-4 to the LE. 8. From the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut and glue the elevator ribs to the frame. 9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 to build the second elevator half. 10.
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15. Temporarily join the elevators with the joiner wire. The joiner wire will be easier to install if you chamfer (bevel) the ends a little. If necessary, “tweak” the joiner wire so the 13. Drill a 3/32" hole into the leading edge of both elevators are parallel and lay flat on your building table when elevators.
If you choose not to purchase a Slot Machine ™ you can make the slots by following these instructions. B. Using the “bevel to” lines and the centerline as a guide, 17. Cut the hinge slots in the elevators, stabilizer, fin and make the “V”...
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3. Cover the left wing panel plan with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector. 8. Place the W-4 ribs onto the main spar and into the notches in the trailing edge. 4. Match the 3/16" x 3/16" x 26-1/4" basswood main spars so any warps will counteract each other.
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12. Position the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs W-2 and W-3 in position. Important: Rib W-2 does not fit into the notch in the 16. From the 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, cut and glue LE. Rib W-2 fits into the notch in the TE and aligns with the vertical grain shear webs to the spars in the locations alignment marks on the wing plan in front of the LE.
19. Remove the wing from your building board. Use a 4. Assemble the die-cut 1/8" ply wing tip jig and wing tip razor saw to trim the LE and top and bottom center sheeting jig feet. flush with rib W-2 and the LE joiner. Trim and sand the top and bottom main spars and center sheeting flush with the side of rib W-1.
wing LE. The TE of the wing tip should rest on the building Assemble & Install the Wing Tips table. Sand off the end of W-6 until it just touches the inside edge of the wing tip. 1. Cover the wing tip portions of the wing plan with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector.
Build the Ailerons 3. Turn the wing upside-down and position the center TE’s on the wing TE with the torque rods installed. Mark the location of the notches on the bottom of the wing’s TE. Cut notches in the wing TE at the marks. Test fit the center TE’s with the torque rods installed, checking that the notches align and are large enough to allow the torque rods to move freely.
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10. Use the centerline and the marks for the torque rod as a guide to drill a 7/64" hole in the aileron for the torque rod. Use the Great Planes Groove Tube or a sharpened brass tube to cut a groove for the torque rod in the LE of the aileron.
down, use thin CA to glue the fiberglass tape to the center Finish the Wing sheeting starting at the TE and working toward the LE. Then glue the tape on the top of the wing from the front edge of the wing plate to the LE.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE Assemble the Fuselage Sides 8. Trim the 1/16" balsa sheeting along the outline of the aileron tray. Cut out the aileron servo opening in ribs W-1. 1. With wax paper or Plan Protector positioned over the fuse plan, pin the die-cut 1/8" balsa forward lower fuselage (FLF), forward center fuselage (FCF) and upper fuselage (FTF) in position over the plan and glue together.
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4. Use a pen to mark the location on the longerons for formers F-4, F-5 and F-6. 5. Remove the fuselage side from the plans. Return to step 1 and build the second fuselage side. 6. Place the two fuse sides together and check that they match up all the way around.
14. Position the fuse side over the plan and glue the 2. From the leftover 1/8" x 3/8" balsa stick, cut two pieces the die-cut 1/8" plywood battery bench support to the inside of full width of the die-cut 1/8" balsa formers F-4 and F-5. Glue the right fuse side.
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6. Pull the tail posts together and use a bar sander to of F-4 and the cross braces will have to be sanded to a lightly sand the inside edges of the tail posts to an angle. slight taper to make good contact with the longerons. Align the fuse over the fuselage top view, checking the tail Remove F-4 and sand as required for a good fit.
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14. Trial fit the aft deck base and formers on the fuse. At each former, make sure the deck base seats completely on the top longeron. Lightly sand the bottom of the formers as needed. 20. Position the fuse upside-down on your building board. Check that the tail post is perpendicular to the building 15.
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25. Trial fit the die-cut 1/8" plywood cabin brace in former 30. Trial fit the die-cut 1/16" balsa top front sheet, F-2 and the fuse sides. Lay the front deck base in position sanding as necessary. Glue the front sheet to the firewall, and then the firewall assembly, pulling the front of the fuse F-1C and the front deck base.
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36. Glue the die-cut 1/32" x 5/8" x 1-1/2" plywood hatch plate to the balsa strip on the aft end of the battery hatch. The hatch plate should extend about 1/8" past the aft edge. 33. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 5-7/8" balsa triangle stick, cut and glue three pieces to fit in the lower front corner of the fuse.
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42. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa former F-3A to the rear edges of the upper fuse sides and the aft deck base. 40. Center the hatch locking tab on the aft edge of the chin plate. Mark the location of the screw hole on the chin plate and drill a 1/16"...
49. From leftover 1/8" balsa (soft balsa preferred) cut two pushrod exit plates to the approximate shape as shown. 46. Using the marks for formers F-4 and F-5 on the side of the longerons, draw lines across the top of the aft deck base. To reduce the weight of the plane, you may cut large lightening holes in the aft deck base (between the 50.
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5. Place the wing in the wing saddle and visually align it with the fuselage. Use a tape measure to measure the distance from the corner of the aileron bay to the center of the tail post. Then, measure the distance from the other aileron bay and check if the distances are the same.
the threads in the wing bolt plate. After the CA has fully cured, thread the tap back through the holes to clean up the threads. Bolt the wing to the fuse with two nylon 10-24 wing bolts, checking the fit. 9.
5. Set the fin in place, using the lines as a guide. Sight 2. In a similar manner, cut and glue the other two 1/8" down the fin, checking that it is in line with the centerline of dowels in position. the fuselage.
Mount the Landing Gear 5. From a leftover 1/8" x 3/8" stick, cut a piece approximately 4-1/4" long to fit on the side of the fin, from former F-6A to the TE of the fin. Cut the piece in half diagonally to make two fairings.
5. On the LE of the rudder, drill a 1/16" hole, centered in the LE of the tailgear support, 3/8" from the bottom of the rudder. 2. Glue the two lower motor mount sides perpendicular to the motor mount back. 3.
Mount the Cowl 7. If you will be using a Great Planes T-600R Reverse Rotation motor with a Great Planes 2.5:1 gear drive, test fit the motor and gear drive in the motor mount and secure it with three rubber bands, two behind the gear drive and one 1.
6. Since you are cutting out plastic parts, cut out the two Note: The ElectriCub was designed to use mini servos on hub caps also. Test fit them on your 2" main wheels (not all control surfaces.
4. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery (if used) in 1/4" Install the Nylon Control Horns foam rubber. 5. Temporarily position the receiver and receiver battery 1. Separate the nylon control horns from the nut plates. on the fuse bottom, in front of former F-3. Later, the receiver battery may be moved forward or aft to balance the plane.
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10. Wrap kite string or strong thread (not included) around the wire and balsa pushrod. Then apply medium CA on the string. 11. Make a 90-degree bend on one end of the leftover piece of wire pushrod cut off in step 6. Use sandpaper to roughen the end of the pushrod with the bend.
Covering the Model The ElectriCub does not require much painting to obtain the scheme shown on the box, as most of the finish is done with Top Flite ®...
It can cause the plastic to curl. We tip. Because the ElectriCub is designed to be very light, recommend Formula-U for painting the clear windshield washout would be difficult to build into the wing.
Allow the paint to dry overnight before gluing it on the plane. hinges that are only “tack glued” approximately 1/8" to 1/4" We recommend that the windshield be glued on within 48 into the hinge slots. The following technique has been hours of being painted.
Install the Wheels Install the Plastic Parts 1. Install a 3/4" tail wheel (not included) on the tailgear wire. Secure the tail wheel with a 1/16" wheel collar (not included). 2. Reinstall the landing gear on the fuse. Install the 1/8" wheel collars (not included) against the inside bend of each landing gear wire and secure it with a set screw.
8. The ElectriCub kit contains a decal sheet including the 5. Peel the backing from one of the fuzzy strips and press small emblems which would be difficult to reproduce it firmly in place on the end of your motor battery.
Adverse Yaw: The tendency of an airplane to yaw in the opposite direction of the roll. For instance, when right aileron is applied, the airplane yaws to the left, thus opposing the turn. Adverse yaw is common in trainer type airplanes having flat-bottom wings and is most noticeable at slow speeds and high angles of attack, such as during takeoffs and when stretching a landing approach.
After initial trim flights and when you become more acquainted with your ElectriCub, you may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 5/16" forward or backward to change its flying characteristics. Moving the...
ElectriCub have been extensively tested. This chart the way, they will puncture the covering on top of the wing. indicates the settings at which the ElectriCub flies best. Therefore, you should only turn the rear screws in a couple Please set up your model to the specifications listed above.
(including the fuse rated no higher than 25 amps. Never operate the tail wheel). If you store your ElectriCub resting on its wheels, system without a fuse. Doing so could result in a fire, the wheels may develop “flat spots,”...
Find a Safe Place to Fly AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) The best place to fly your ElectriCub is at an AMA chartered Read and abide by the following Academy of Model club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby shop dealer if Aeronautics Official Safety Code: there is a club in your area and join.
The Great Planes ElectriCub is a great-flying plane that flies Have a ball! But always remember to think about your next smoothly and predictably. The ElectriCub does not, however, move and plan each maneuver before you do it. Impulsively possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C “jamming the sticks”...
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2-View Use the 2-view or photocopy it and use the copy to design your trim scheme. Printed in USA...