Beta RR 4T-400 Workshop Manual
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Beta RR 4T-400 Workshop Manual

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Summary of Contents for Beta RR 4T-400

  • Page 1 WORKSHOP MANUAL...
  • Page 3 INTRODUCTION This publication has been designed to assist authorized service personnel of Betamotor Workshops in maintaining and repairing the vehicle referred to in the manual. Famil- iarity with the specifications contained herein is a key fac- tor in the technical training of operators. In order to make the manual easy to read and understand, the different paragraphs are marked with icons that point out the subject dealt with.
  • Page 4 GENERAL CONTENTS 1 General information 2 Specific tools 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products 4 Maintenance 5 Bodywork and fittings 6 Engine 7 Carburettor 8 Front suspension/wheel 9 Rear suspension/wheel 10 Braking system 11 Electrical system Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...

  • Page 5: General Information

    GENERAL INFORMATION Pag. 5...

  • Page 6: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL ..Chap. 1 - 7 GENERAL CONTENTS ... . . Chap. 1 - 7 Arrangement of subjects ... Chap. 1 - 7 Description of operations .

  • Page 7: How To Consult The Manual

    HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL GENERAL CONTENTS Arrangement of subjects The manual is divided into chapters that cover the main sub- assemblies of the vehicle. To make the different chapters easy to find, the pages of each chapter bear a reference mark that is aligned with the related title in the general contents.

  • Page 8: Terms And Symbols

    TERMS AND SYMBOLS Whenever the words left, right, upper, NOTE When performing these oper- lower, front and rear are used, reference IMPORTANT ations, flammable vapours is made to the vehicle in its normal direc- can be released and metal tion of travel. parts can be ejected at high speed.

  • Page 9: Convention

    CONVENTION In order to clarify the left/right convention used in this manual, a diagram of the vehicle and engine are provided below with an indication of how the two sides are referred to in the manual. 1 - General information Release 01 Date 09/2007...

  • Page 10: Safety

    SAFETY The information contained in this paragraph is designed to minimize the risks the operator runs WARNING when working on the vehicle. Carbon monoxide • Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide (CO), a poisonous gas that can cause loss of consciousness and even death. •...
  • Page 11 Brake fluid Battery • The brake fluid is highly corrosive. • The battery produces explosive gases. Keep it away • Avoid contact with the eyes, the skin and the mucous from sparks, flames and cigarettes. Only recharge it in membranes. well ventilated places.
  • Page 12 NOTES The information contained in this paragraph is designed to prevent damage to the vehicle. • Thoroughly clean the vehicle before removing parts. • After removing parts, clean them and place them in containers taking care to observe the order of removal. •...
  • Page 13 OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION The frame number is stamped on the right side of the head tube. The engine number is stamped on the upper crankcase half, next to the swingarm. 2) engine number 3) type-approval data 1) frame number The following is an example of frame number format: ZD3 E1 XX XXXXXXXXXX Manufacturer’s data...
  • Page 14 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 15 SPECIAL TOOLS...
  • Page 16 Code Description 3625132 UNIVERSAL ENGINE MOUNTING TOOL 3625198 RACING ENGINE BRACKET 3625202 CHAIN LINK ASSEMBLING TOOL 3625200 WATER PUMP SEAL FITTING TOOL POMPA ACQUA 3625097 SPECIAL RING PLIERS 3625203 PRIMARY DRIVE PULLER PISTON RING ∅ = 75 MM 3625174 PISTON RING ∅ = 89 MM 3625175 PISTON RING ∅...
  • Page 17 Code Description 3625001 LOCTITE 243 BLUE 6CCM 3625081 BUSH PULLER 3625082 INNER BEARING PULLER 12-16MM 3625083 INNER BEARING PULLER 18-23MM 3625084 INNER BEARING PULLER 5-7MM 3625204 VALVE GUIDE CHECKING TOOL 3625207 INNER CLUTCH RING FITTING TOOL 3625208 SHAFT PROTECTING COVER 3625205 GEAR PULLER 3625201...
  • Page 18 Code Description 3625238 CHECKING SPANNER 3625173 FLYWHEEL PULLER 3625000 SILICONE (TUBE) 3625098 TIMING CHAIN FITTING TOOL 3625209 SPARK PLUG SPANNER 13/16 3625090 CLUTCH BLEEDING OIL SYRINGE 3625194 LOCTITE 648 GREEN 24ML 3625199 CLUTCH PULLER Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 19 Code Description 3625206 CARBURETTOR ADJUSTING SPANNER 2 - Special tools Release 01 Date 09/2007...
  • Page 20 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 21 TIGHTENING TORQUES SPECIFICATIONS RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS...
  • Page 22 CONTENTS SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE ... . Chap. 3 - 3 SPECIFICATIONS ....Chap. 3 - 3 CARBURETTOR TUNING .

  • Page 23: Specifications - Engine

    SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Engine Type single-cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, with countershaft and electric start Displacement 398 cc 448 cc 510 cc Bore/stroke 89 / 64 mm 89 / 72 mm 95 / 72 mm Compression ratio 11 : 1 11 : 1 11 : 1 Fuel unleaded premium fuel with a minimum of 95 RON...

  • Page 24: Carburettor Tuning

    SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE CARBURETTOR TUNING 400/450 Carburettor type Keihin FCR-MX 39 Keihin FCR-MX 39 Carburettor code 3900A 3900B Main jet Jet needle OBDVR OBDVT Idling jet Main air jet Idling air jet Needle valve position Starting jet Fuel mixture adj. screw open by 1,25 turns 1,25 turns Throttle valve...

  • Page 25: Tightening Torques

    SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE TIGHTENING TORQUES Description Type Tightening Crankcase, clutch cover, ignition cover flange screws 10 N·m Oil drain screw M12x1.5 20 N·m Short oil unit socket-head screw M16x1.5 10 N·m Long oil unit hexagonal-head screw M20x1.5 15 N·m Oil filter cover flange screw 6 N·m Bypass valve screw M12x1.5...

  • Page 26: Fits, Wear Limits

    SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE FITS, WEAR LIMITS Crankshaft axial play ........0,1 - 0,2 mm offset between shaft sections .
  • Page 27 SPECIFICATIONS - CYCLE PARTS 400/450/525 Frame Single-beam, molybdenum steel frame with double cradle split over exhaust port Fork “MARZOCCHI” hydraulic upside-down fork (leg Ø 45) Front/rear suspension travel 290/300 mm Rear suspension SACHS monoshocks with progressive leverage Front brake Floating steel disc Ø 255 mm with floating caliper Rear brake Steel disc Ø...

  • Page 28: Homologation E3

    HOMOLOGATION E3 The latest models are E3 type-approved and they differ from prior approvals in that three de- vices have been introduced: AIS valve It is called AIS 1 and it is an air intake system which allows to complete the combustion of some unburned fuels remaining from the ther- modynamic cycle.

  • Page 29: Tightening Torques

    SPECIFICATIONS - FRAME TIGHTENING TORQUES 4 fork foot screws 10 N·m Front brake caliper M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 30 N·m Front brake disc Loctite 243 + 15 N·m Rear brake disc M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 20 N·m Upper fork plate clamping screws M8 CH10 20 N·m Lower fork plate clamping screws...
  • Page 30 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 31 MAINTENANCE...
  • Page 32 CONTENTS PLANNED MAINTENANCE ... . Chap. 4 - 3 SUSPENSIONS ..... Chap. 4 - 20 Fork RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS .

  • Page 33: Planned Maintenance

    PLANNED MAINTENANCE Interval hours (h) after/every 15 Item fuel (litres) Air filter (after each off-road ride) Valves Spark plug (replace every 30 hours) Idle speed Throttle cable play Clutch Engine oil Engine oil filter Engine oil gauze strainer Exhaust pipe bolts Brakes Brake lines (replace every 4 years) Brake fluid (renew every 2 years)

  • Page 34: How To Clean Parts

    How to clean parts Clean all parts with suitable biodegradable solvents and then dry them with compressed air. Clean the assemblies before disassembling them as well as the individual parts after disassembly. Also clean each part before reassembly. Fits To keep the engine in perfect running order, ensure that all fits are within the prescribed tolerances.

  • Page 35: Oil Circuit

    Oil circuit Oil pump 3 sucks the engine oil from the gearbox oil sump through long oil unit 4. The oil flows through oil line 5 into the cylinder head to camshaft lubrication point 6. The oil quantity is adjusted by means of oilway screw 7. A pipe branches off to long oil unit 8, where the coarser particles are filtered from the oil.

  • Page 36: Cleaning The Short Oil Unit

    Cleaning the short oil unit Short oil unit 1 is fitted into socket-head screw 2 on the lower side of the engine. Insert an Allen key into the socket and un- screw the oil drain screw. Remove the oil unit, thoroughly clean its components and blow them with low-pressure compressed air.

  • Page 37: Replacing The Oil Filter

    Replacing the oil filter Remove screw 1 and place a container under the engine to col- lect the drained oil. Remove the four screws 2 and take off the two oil filter covers. ENVIRONMENT: Dispose of spent oils in compliance with applicable laws.

  • Page 38: Checking The Front Brake Fluid Level

    Checking the front brake fluid level Check the brake fluid level by looking through sight A. The lev- el should never fall below the mark in the sight. Restoring the front brake fluid level To restore the brake fluid level, unscrew the two screws 1, lift cap 2 and pour in fresh fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level is 5 mm below the upper rim of the reservoir.

  • Page 39: Checking The Rear Brake Fluid Level

    Checking the rear brake fluid level Ensure the brake fluid level by looking through sight D. The lev- el should never fall below the mark in the sight. Restoring the rear brake fluid level To restore the brake fluid level, unscrew cap 3 and pour in fresh fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level reaches the mark in sight D.

  • Page 40: Checking The Front Brake Pads

    Checking the front brake pads To check the wear of the front brake pads, visually inspect the caliper from below. The lining on the visible ends of the two brake pads should be at least 2 mm thick. Should the lining be thinner, immediately replace the brake pads.

  • Page 41: Checking The Level Of The

    Checking the level of the hydraulic clutch fluid To check the level of the fluid in the clutch pump, it is first nec- essary to remove cover 2. Remove the two screws 1 and take off cover 2 together with the rubber bellows.
  • Page 42 CONTROLS Clutch lever Clutch lever 1 is fitted to the left-hand side of the handlebars. Screw A can be used to alter the home position of the lever (see Adjustments). Front brake lever Front brake lever 2 is fitted to the righthand side of the handle- bars.
  • Page 43 CONTROLS (RR4t USA) Starter button Starte button 3 is located on the right-hand side of the handle- bars and operate the electri engine starter. Push the button un- til the engine sterts. Do not press the button 3 while the engine is running. LH switch Switch 11 is used to stop the engine.

  • Page 44: Fork Oil

    Fork oil Left/right fork leg To renew the oil, follow these steps: – Unscrew the four screws B fastening handlebar clamp C and remove the handlebars. – Loosen leg clamping screws D and E. – Remove lower plug F and upper plug A (pay attention to the spring).

  • Page 45: Air Filter

    Air filter A dirty air filter blocks the passage of air, reduces engine power and increases fuel consumption. For these reasons, it is essen- tial to maintain the oil filter on a regular basis. To gain access to the filter, follow these steps: –...

  • Page 46: Spark Plug

    Spark plug Maintaining the spark plug in good condition makes for reduced fuel consumption and optimum engine performance. It is prefer- able to remove the spark plug when the engine is hot (obvious- ly after switching it off) as the carbon formation and the colour of the insulator provide important information on carburation, lubri- cation and the general condition of the engine.
  • Page 47 Carburettor - Idle speed adjustment The adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine start- ing, i.e. an engine whose idle speed is properly adjusted is eas- ier to start than an improperly tuned engine. The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 and mixture adjusting screw 2.
  • Page 48 Emptying the float chamber Should the float chamber need to be emptied, use the following procedure when the engine is cold. Close the fuel cock and place pipe 4 in a container to collect the fuel that will flow out. Open drain screw 5 and drain the fuel.
  • Page 49 Chain maintenance The life of the chain mainly depends on its maintenance. Chain without X-rings should be regularly cleaned in petroleum and then immersed in hot chain oil or treated with chain spray. The maintenance of X-ring chains is reduced to a minimum. The best way to clean them is to use plenty of water. Never attempt to clean an X-ring chain with brushes or solvents.

  • Page 50: Fork

    SUSPENSIONS Fork Adjusting the rebound damping The hydraulic rebound damping unit determines the behaviour of the fork during the rebound phase and is adjusted by means of screw A. Turning the screw clockwise (towards the + sign) or anticlockwise (towards the – sign) respectively increases or de- creases the rebound damping.

  • Page 51: Adjusting The Spring Preload

    Adjusting the spring preload Use the following procedure to adjust the spring preload. Loosen locknut 1, turn ring nut 2 clockwise to increase the spring preload (and consequently the shock absorber preload) and anticlockwise to decrease it. Once the desired preload has been obtained, turn locknut 1 until it comes into contact with ad- justing ring nut 2.

  • Page 52: Scrolll Pushbutton

    DIGITAL RPM INDICATOR (RR4T Euro 3 version) SCROLL PUSHBUTTON The instrument panel has a pushbutton A which changes and sets the main functions. WARNING LIGHTS The instrument panel has three warning lights. Warning light B, GREEN, indicates turn indicators have been activated. Warning light C, BLUE, indicates when the high-beam light is ON.

  • Page 53: Instrument Panel Operation

    INSTRUMENT PANEL OPERATION Every time the battery is connected, the instrument panel checks all the functions. Once the CHECK phase is complete (around 2 seconds), the last preset operation is displayed. Every time the vehicle is turned off, the instrument panel stops showing the current information.

  • Page 54: Conversion Procedure Km/H - Mph And Wheel

    CONVERSION PROCEDURE Km/h - Mph and wheel selection In order to convert km/h to mph, proceed as follows: - Set the instrument panel on the 1st screen, turn off the vehicle and press the SCROLL pushbutton. - Start the vehicle keeping the SCROLL pushbutton pushed until the symbol "Km/h"...

  • Page 55: Digital Speedometer (Rs4T Usa)

    DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER (RR4T USA RS4T USA version) CYCLING THROUGH THE FUNCTIONS It is always possible to cycle through the different functions while the vehicle is stationary or in motion. Pressing button A displays the following functions in succession: TIME - LAP - TOD - TD - COUNTDOWN BUTTON FUNCTIONS The functions of the buttons change with the function currently displayed:...

  • Page 56: Automatic Trip Functions (Td)

    AUTOMATIC TRIP FUNCTION (TD) T≥ 3” resets LAP and TD T<3” cycles through functions This function is always accompanied by the TD caption. The in- formation displayed represents the total distance covered by the vehicle in kilometres or miles (according to the selected unit). It is an automatic counter which is activated by the first pulse gen- erated by the speed sensor.

  • Page 57: Changing The Wheel Circumference

    CHANGING THE WHEEL CIRCUMFERENCE, UNIT AND NUMBER OF PULSES The wheel circumference, the unit and the number of wheel pulses can be altered only when the vehicle is stationary. Hold down the button while the TOD function is active until the on- ly information displayed is the circumference and all the other seg- ments are switched off.
  • Page 58 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 59 BODYWORK AND FITTINGS...
  • Page 60 CONTENTS Removing the plastics ... . . Chap. 5 - 3 Removing the saddle ....Chap. 5 - 3 Removing the rear mudguard .

  • Page 61: Removing The Plastics

    Removing the plastics To make some areas of the vehicle easier to check and service, it is first necessary to remove parts of the bodywork as de- scribed below. Removing the saddle Remove the two fixing screws A (one on each side), lift the sad- dle as shown in the figure and pull it back and off the vehicle.

  • Page 62: Removing The Front Side Panels

    Removing the front side panels Unscrew the eight fixing screws E (four on each side) and take off the front side panels. Removing the rear side panels Unscrew the four fixing screws F (two on each side) and take off the rear side panels.

  • Page 63: Removing The Front Mudguard

    Removing the front mudguard Remove the four screws L from under the front mudguard. Also remove mudguard brace fixing screw M from under the mudguard. Finally remove the two brace fixing screws N from the top of the brace. Removing the fork covers Unscrew the eight fixing screws P (five on the left side and three on the right side) and remove the fork covers.

  • Page 64: Removing The Headlight Grille

    Removing the headlight grille Release the two rubber bands Q as shown in the figure, pull out the headlight and remove grille R. Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 65 ENGINE SECTION - REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE VEHICLE - DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE - OVERHAULING THE ENGINE - REASSEMBLING THE ENGINE - INSTALLING THE ENGINE ON THE VEHICLE...
  • Page 66 Workshop manual RR 4T- 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 67 ENGINE SECTION - REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE VEHICLE...
  • Page 68 CONTENTS Removing the saddle ....Chap. 6 - 5 Removing the fuel tank ... . . Chap. 6 - 5 Removing the right-hand side panel .

  • Page 69: Removing The Saddle

    Place the vehicle on a central stand. Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 4 Maintenance). Removing the saddle Remove the left-hand and right-hand saddle screws. Remove the saddle by pulling it towards the back of the vehicle. Removing the fuel tank To remove the tank together with the deflectors, unscrew the left-hand and right-hand screws fixing it to the radiator.

  • Page 70: Removing The Right-Hand Side Panel

    Removing the right-hand side panel To gain access to the silencer fixing screws, it is first necessary to remove the right-hand side panel. Pay attention to the plastic catches between the side pan- el and the mudguard. Removing the silencer Loosen the two screws shown in the figure.

  • Page 71: Removing The Left-Hand Radiator

    Removing the left-hand radiator To remove the left-hand radiator, it is first necessary to discon- nect the upper pipe after removing the clamp as shown in the figure. Subsequently remove the clamp as shown in the figure and re- move the lower pipe. Removing the horn Remove the horn and the related bracket so as to facilitate the removal of the plastic bumper.

  • Page 72: Removing The Intake Sleeve

    Removing the intake sleeve Disconnect the carburettor intake sleeve. Rear frame Remove the two screws 1 to the left and right of the rear frame and loosen the two screws 2. Disconnecting the electrical system Disconnect all the electrical connections, cutting the wire clamps where necessary.

  • Page 73: Disengaging The Exhaust Pipe

    Disengaging the exhaust pipe Release the two springs that support the exhaust pipe with the cylinder Take care to avoid hand injury. Remove the screw that fixes the exhaust pipe to the frame. Releasing the rear shock absorber Disengage the shock absorber from the frame as shown in the figure.

  • Page 74: Removing The Engine/Swingarm Pin

    Removing the engine/swingarm pin Remove the engine/swingarm pin. For safety reasons, it is ad- visable to unscrew the left side while holding the pin in position on the right side. Removing the rear suspension linkage Remove the linkage pin as previously described. Removing the rear end The swingarm assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.
  • Page 75 Removing the brake pedal pull-off spring Removing the spark plug cap Removing the water delivery pipe from the pump Removing the front sprocket casing Unscrew screw 1 and screw 2 on the opposite side. Removing the clutch pump assembly Remove the clutch assembly without disconnecting the pipe so as to avoid having to fill and bleed the system again.
  • Page 76 Releasing the decompressor cable Removing the engine Remove the lower engine/frame pivot pin. Remove the upper engine/frame pivot pin. Removing the kickstart Loosen the screw shown in the figure and remove the kickstart. Removing the engine from the frame Remove the engine from the frame, extracting it from the left side.
  • Page 77 ENGINE SECTION - DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Pag. 13...
  • Page 78 CONTENTS Draining the oil ....Chap. 6 - 15 Removing the oil filters ... . Chap. 6 - 15 Removing the front sprocket .

  • Page 79: Draining The Oil

    Draining the oil – Remove screws 1, 2 e 3 and drain the engine oil into a con- tainer. – Remove the kickstart and the gearchange lever. NOTE: Dispose of spent oil without polluting the environ- ment. Should the engine oil come into contact with the skin, wash with plenty of soap and water.

  • Page 80: Removing The Clutch

    Removing the clutch – Unscrew all clutch cover screws and remove the cover with its gasket. – Remove the two centring bushes from the crankcase. – To prevent the clutch plates from jamming when the clutch springs are released, loosen the screws following a crosswise pattern.

  • Page 81: Pulling Out The Flywheel

    – Position the special tool as shown in the figure, unscrew the primary torque gear flange nut and remove it. – Remove the special tool. THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEAR- ING THE CAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND THREAD.

  • Page 82: Removing The Oil Pump

    – Remove clutch drum 1 together with stepped washer 2 and the two half washers 3 from the driving shaft. – Remove the two needle roller bearings 4 and the support washer. Removing the oil pump – Unscrew the two screws 5 and remove the oil pump cover. –...

  • Page 83: Removing The Cylinder Head Top

    Removing the cylinder head top – Unscrew all six screws with the related seal rings and remove the two valve covers 1 with their gaskets. – Unscrew the spark plug. – Unscrew the four screws and remove water pump cover 2 with the related gasket.
  • Page 84 – Position the timing chain separating tool and undo the chain (see figure). – ENSURE THAT THE EJECTED NAILS DO NOT FALL INTO THE ENGINE. – HOLD THE TIMING CHAIN IN POSITION SO THAT IT DOES NOT FALL DOWN TOWARDS THE CHAIN CASING. –...

  • Page 85: Removing The Timing Chain And Gear . Chap

    – Remove the Seeger ring and push the piston pin out of the piston. Remove the piston. Removing the timing chain and gear – Loosen the two screws 1 and remove chain guard 2. – Remove the timing chain. – Remove screws 3 and 4, pull the chain stretcher and the chain guide up and out of the crankcase.

  • Page 86: Removing The Electric Start And Kickstart Gears

    Removing the electric start and kickstart gears – Remove the two Seeger rings 1 and the thrust washers. Re- move kickstart idler gear 2 and electric start idler gear 3 from their support pins. – Remove the double gear and the needle roller cage from the support pin.

  • Page 87: Removing The Primary Torque Gear And The Free Wheel

    Removing the primary torque gear and the free wheel – Remove flange nut 1. NOTE: THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEARING THE CAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND THREAD. THOSE WITH NO INSCRIPTION HAVE A RIGHT-HAND THREAD. –...

  • Page 88: Removing The Gearshift Mechanism And The Gear Shafts

    Removing the gearshift mechanism and the gear shafts – Lay down the engine on one side. – Release the engine fastening on the stand. – Detach the left-hand crankcase half using suitable tools posi- tioned on the specially designed supports. Alternatively, gen- tly tap the driven shaft with a plastic mallet.

  • Page 89: Removing The Countershaft And The Crankshaft

    Removing the countershaft and the crankshaft – Turn the crankshaft until the marks on the countershaft and the crankshaft are aligned. – In this position the crankshaft can be removed from its seat. – Remove the crankshaft. – Clean all the parts, check them for wear and replace as nec- essary.
  • Page 90 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 91 ENGINE SECTION - OVERHAULING THE ENGINE Pag. 27...
  • Page 92 CONTENTS IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT Sealing surface ....Chap. 6 - 41 CRANKCASE SERVICING ..Chap. 6 - 29 Valve guides .

  • Page 93: Important Note About Crankcase Servicing

    IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CRANKCASE SERVICING NOTE: Read through this paragraph before begin- ning work, then determine the reassembly sequence so that the crankcase halves can undergo a single heat treatment for the replacement of the bearings. If necessary, use drifts of suitable diameter to remove the bearings.

  • Page 94: Left-Hand Crankcase Half

    Left-hand crankcase half Remove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an oven at a temperature of approximately 150° C. Crankshaft roller bearing 1 Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fit the new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end. Driving shaft ball bearing 2 Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside.

  • Page 95: Right-Hand Crankcase Half

    The oil pump casing should show no signs of scoring or seizu- Blow all the oil channels with compressed air and ensure that they are clear. Check that the two steady pins 1 are firmly seated. If necessary lock with Loctite 243. Right-hand crankcase half Remove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an oven to a temperature of approximately 150°...

  • Page 96: 60" Oil Jet 8

    Countershaft ball bearing 1 and oil seal 2 Using a suitable puller, extract the ball bearing from the crank- case half and remove the oil seal. Press in the new oil seal with the open side facing downwards until it is flush. Press in the new ball bearing to its abutting end.

  • Page 97: By-Pass Valve

    “100” oil jet 1 Remove the oil jet and blow the oil channel with compressed air. Degrease the oil jet thread, apply Loctite 243 and refit the oil jet. NOTE: : This jet provides the right quantity of oil for the con- necting rod bearing.

  • Page 98: Crankshaft

    Crankshaft If the connecting rod bearing is replaced, take care to properly position the coupling shaft. The holes in the shaft section A and in the coupling shaft B must be aligned. IF THE COUPLING SHAFT IS FORCED IN OUT OF PO- SITION, THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING WILL RE- CEIVE LITTLE OR NO OIL AND WILL CONSEQUENTLY BE DAMAGED.

  • Page 99: Countershaft Gear

    Measuring the outside diameter of the handwheels Using a vernier caliper, measure the outside diameter of the handwheels as shown in the figure. Outside diameter of handwheels = 65 mm ± 0.05 mm Countershaft gear – To remove the countershaft gear from the crankshaft, it is first necessary to remove the inner ring nut of the cylindrical roller bearing (see below).

  • Page 100: Cylinder - Nikasil Lining

    Cylinder - Nikasil lining Nikasil is the trademark of a cylinder lining procedure developed by the piston manufacturer Mahle. The name is derived from the two materials used in the procedure – nickel containing silicon carbide to make a particularly hard substance. The principal ad- vantages of Nikasil are excellent heat dissipation, making for an increased power supply, and reduced cylinder weight and wear.

  • Page 101: Checking The Piston

    Checking the piston – Replace the piston if oil consumption is excessive or if the pi- ston skirt is scored. – If the piston is to be reused: 1.Check the wear of the piston sliding surface. 2.Check that the piston rings can move freely in their grooves. Clean the grooves with an old piston ring or with emery paper (400 grain).

  • Page 102: Lubrication System

    Lubrication system Oil line 1 Ensure that the soldered joints present no capillary cracks. Blow the oil line with compressed air to check whether the pas- sage is clear. Also check that there are no friction points on the oil line. Always replace the seal rings with new ones (8x12x1).

  • Page 103: Rocker Arm Pins 5 And 6

    Cylinder head top – Remove Seeger ring 1 and pull decompressor shaft 2 and spring 3 out of the hole. – Remove the two terminals 4 from the cylinder head top to- gether with rocker arm pivots 5 and 6. Remove rocker arms 7. –...

  • Page 104: Cylinder Head

    modelli 250 modelli 250 Cylinder head – Unscrew the three screws 1 and remove exhaust flange 2 to- gether with its gasket. – Using the specially designed tool, remove the four valves. – The 250 cc model fits conical valves. –...

  • Page 105: Sealing Surface

    – Remove spring caps 1 and valve springs 2 from the cylinder head. – Remove the valve stem linings from the valve guides and re- move spring holders 3. The 250 cc model fits conical springs. Sealing surface Check the spark thread and the valve seats for damage or cracks.

  • Page 106: Camshaft

    Camshaft – Remove Seeger ring 1 and water pump impeller 2. – Pull out roller 3 from the shaft hole and remove lining holder 4 from the camshaft. – Remove ball bearing 5 from the camshaft with a suitable pul- ler (see figure).

  • Page 107: Preassembling The Camshaft

    – Press oil seals 1 out of seal holding bush 2. – Fit the new oil seals with the gaps facing outward, pressing them in until they are flush. Carefully grease the sealing lips. – Remove the two O-rings 3 from the seal holding bush and re- move any residues with a wire brush.

  • Page 108: Automatic Stretcher

    Automatic stretcher – Fully extract the automatic stretcher pressure pin and check that it can slide freely. – Check the wear of the pressure pin teeth and the dog. – When refitting, push the dog in the direction indicated by the arrow so that the pressure pin no longer jams and then fully insert the pressure pin into the stretcher body.

  • Page 109: Checking The Clutch For Wear

    Checking the clutch for wear Clutch hub 8 Thrust head 1 Check for damage and signs of wear. Check the thrust head for signs of seizure and ensure that it can slide freely. Pressure plate 9 Check for signs of damage on contact surface A with the Axial bearing 2 steel plate.

  • Page 110: Checking The Kickstart For Wear

    Checking the kickstart for wear Remove all components from the kickstart shaft and clean them. Starter gear 1 Check the wear of the teeth and the play of the support. Starter idler gear 2 Check to see if there is any play or any sign of seizure on the sup- port.

  • Page 111: Gearshift Mechanism

    Gearshift mechanism Gearshift forks 1 Check wear at ends A. When the forks are new, their thickness ranges from 4.8 to 4.9 mm. The wear limit is 4.6 mm. Desmodromic mechanism 2 Check the wear of profiled grooves B. Check the desmodromic mechanism support in ball bearing 3. Ball bearing 3 Check that it can turn smoothly.

  • Page 112: Gearbox

    Gearbox Clamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Remove the gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure: • Needle roller cages. • Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears. •...

  • Page 113: Gearbox

    Gearbox Clamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Remove the gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure: • Needle roller cages. • Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears. •...

  • Page 114: Ignition System

    Ignition system General information The measurements described below are only used to find easily detectable faults. Inside short circuits, which pro- duce feeble sparks with a low ignition power, can only be discovered with a specially designed ignition test bench. In case of problems first check the wires and connectors of the ignition system.

  • Page 115: Electric Start Gears

    Electric start gears Idler gear 1 Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the idler gear for signs of wear. Also check the idler gear support pin for signs of seizure. Double gear 2 Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the double gear for signs of wear. Also check the double gear support pin for signs of seizure.

  • Page 116: Checking The Operation

    Checking the operation of the free wheel – Fit free wheel gear 1 on free wheel device 2. – The free wheel gear should rotate clockwise. – Attempting to rotate the free wheel gear anticlockwise should lock the gear with no idle travel. Replacing the free wheel hub –...
  • Page 117 ENGINE SECTION - REASSEMBLING THE ENGINE...
  • Page 118 CONTENTS Fitting the crankshaft and the countershaft ... Chap. 6 - 55 Fitting the gearbox and the gearshift mechanism ..Chap. 6 - 55 Assembling the crankcase ..Chap. 6 - 57 Fitting the oil pumps .

  • Page 119: Fitting The Crankshaft And The Countershaft

    Fitting the crankshaft and the countershaft – Fasten the right-hand crankcase half to the assembly stand. – Carefully oil the crankshaft roller bearing and grease the oil seal. – Carefully insert the crankshaft into the bearing. – Turn the crankshaft until mark A is at the front and then insert the countershaft into its bearing.
  • Page 120 – Oil the ends of the gearshift forks and attach them to the slid- ing gears. – Insert the desmodromic mechanism into its bearing. – Attach the gearshift forks to the desmodromic mechanism and fit the two fork guide rods 2 along with the springs. –...

  • Page 121: Assembling The Crankcase

    M6x... NOTE: This diagram shows all the lengths of the carter fixing screws. Assembling the crankcase – Remove the engine retainer from the stand. – Apply a thin film of grease to the crankcase sealing surface and fit a new gasket. –...

  • Page 122: Fitting The Oil Pumps

    Fitting the oil pumps – Using a cloth, carefully clean the rest surface of the oil pump cover. – Insert the roller into the oil pump shaft. – Fit the inner and outer rotors to the oil pump shaft so that the two centres A and B are placed next to each other, and then insert all the part into the crankcase.

  • Page 123: Fitting The Gear Selector

    Fitting the gear selector – Fit screw 1 (M5x20) with washer 2, selector lever 3, spring holding bush 4 and selector lever spring 5. – Apply Loctite 243 to the screw thread and tighten the screw to 6 N·m. – Move the selector lever away from the desmodromic mecha- nism and fit the latter with the gear selector.
  • Page 124 – Insert the support pins into the crankcase holes. Fit needle roller cage 1 and double gear 2. – Insert the preassembled kickstart shaft into the bearing hole so that the starter coupling is located behind the release plate. – Attach the spring link to the starter spring, apply Loctite 243 to the thread of screw 3 (M6x12), preload the starter spring by turning it about 45 degrees clockwise, fasten the spring link with the screw and tighten to 10 N·m.

  • Page 125: Fitting The Clutch Drum And Hub

    Fitting the clutch drum and hub – Insert the support washer and needle roller bearings 1. – Fit the driving shaft with clutch drum 2, half washers 3 and stepped washer 4. – Heat the clutch hub to approx. 150° C and key it on the driving shaft.

  • Page 126: Fitting The Timing Gear

    Fitting the timing gear – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft. – Heat timing pinion 1 and fit it to the crankshaft with the high end facing inward. If necessary, gently tap with a suitable tube. –...

  • Page 127: Fitting The Piston And The Cylinder

    Fitting the piston and the cylinder – Fit a new cylinder base gasket. – Oil the piston pin bearing in the connecting rod and the piston pin itself. – Fit the piston and fasten the piston pin with two new retaining rings.
  • Page 128 Ensure that drain hole A is facing upwards. – Insert the camshaft in the cylinder head so that marks B on the camshaft gear are aligned with the upper edge of the cylin- der (see figure). The automatic decompressor stop screw must be positioned at the top.

  • Page 129: Fitting The Cylinder Head Top

    Fitting the cylinder head top – Clean or degrease the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head top and the cylinder head itself. – Insert the centring bushes in the cylinder head. – Apply a thin film of sealant (Three Bond) over the cylinder head sealing surface.

  • Page 130: Fitting The Automatic Stretcher

    Fitting the automatic stretcher – Fit the preassembled automatic stretcher 1 with a new gasket. – Fit the two screws (M6x20) with the 6x10x1 copper rings and tighten them to 8 N·m. – Using a screwdriver, push in the pressure pin until a slight re- sistance is felt, then push it in one further notch.

  • Page 131: Fitting The Flywheel

    Fitting the flywheel – Unscrew the crankshaft fixing screw, fit seal ring 1 and tighten the crankshaft fixing screw to 25 N·m (see above). – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft and then fit the flywheel on the crankshaft. –...

  • Page 132: Fitting The Clutch

    Fitting the clutch – Before fitting the clutch, carefully oil the lined plates. Clutch plates – Place the twelve dragging bushes 3 in the hub. If necessary fix them with a little grease. – Starting with a middle plate 6 and 6A, alternate eight middle plates with seven lined plates 5, ending with a thin middle plate 6 at the top.

  • Page 133: Fitting The Oil Line

    Fitting the oil line - Position oil line 3 and fasten it with the two oilway screws 1 and 2, using new seal rings. Tightening torque: 10 N·m. Position the oil line so that it does not come into contact with the engine.

  • Page 134: Fitting The Oil Filter

    Fitting the oil filter – Pour engine oil into the oil filter casings until they are about 1/4 full. – Insert the two oil filters 1 in the crankcase. – Oil the O-rings on the oil filter covers and fix covers 2 with the four screws (M5x16), applying a tightening torque of 6 N·m.
  • Page 135 ENGINE SECTION - INSTALLING THE ENGINE ON THE VEHICLE...
  • Page 136 To mount the engine on the vehicle, follow the procedures described for its removal in rever- se order, taking care to apply the tightening torques and use the products specified in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products. Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 137 CARBURETTOR...
  • Page 138 CONTENTS CARBURETTOR - KEIHIN FCR M X 39 . . . Chap. 7 - 3 Removing and reinstallin the carburettor ....Chap. 7 - 4 Disassembling the carburettor .

  • Page 139: Carburettor - Keihin Fcr M X 39

    CARBURETTOR - KEIHIN FCR M X 39 7 - Carburettor Release 01 Date 09/2007...
  • Page 140 Removing and reinstalling the carburettor NOTE: Before starting work on the carburettor, thoroughly clean the vehicle. – Remove the saddle and the fuel tank with the deflectors. – Unscrew the throttle twist grip. – Loosen the clamp screw on the float chamber, drain the fuel into a suitable container, then tighten the screw again.

  • Page 141: The Carburettor

    Disassembling the carburettor NOTE: The disassembly should be carried out in a clean work- place with sufficient space to properly arrange all carburettor components. – Remove the carburettor and clean it of coarse dirt. – Loosen the two screws 1 and remove all breather pipes from the carburettor.
  • Page 142 – Rotate the carburettor, loosen the three screws and remove the accelerating pump cover. NOTE: When removing the cover, ensure that the spring and the seal rings are not lost. – Remove the two seal rings, the spring and the diaphragm from the pump casing.
  • Page 143 – Remove screws 1 and throttle sensor 2. Remove the throttle sensor only if it is defective. The throttle speed sensor needs to be readjusted every time screws 1 are loosened. – Remove screw 3 and pull the connecting piece out of the car- burettor.

  • Page 144: Choke Valves

    Choke valves Ensure that choke knob piston 1 presents no deep scoring or residues. Checking the accelerating pump Check that the diaphragm is not cracked or porous. Check that the gaskets are not damaged. Ensure that holes 2 are clear. Checking the jet needle Ensure that the jet needle is not bent or worn.

  • Page 145: Reassembling The Carburettor

    Reassembling the carburettor – Fit choke idling jet 1 and choke main jet 2. – Fit O-ring 3 in the groove and fasten the suction pump to the carburettor with the two screws. – Insert the fuel connection into the carburettor and fasten it with screw 4.
  • Page 146 – Position the float and the needle valve and fit float pin 1. – Check the float level (see page 14). – Fit the carburettor float chamber complete with its gasket, po- sition adjusting screw support 2 and fasten the float chamber by means of screws 3.
  • Page 147 – Apply Loctite 243 to screw 1 and tighten it. – Fit the jet needle and fasten it with screw 2. – Position the throttle valve cover with the related gasket and fasten it with the two screws 3. – Fasten the breather pipes with the two float chamber screws 7 - Carburettor Release 01 Date 09/2007...
  • Page 148 Checking the throttle sensor NOTE: The following measurement should be taken when the temperature of the part is approximately 20° C. – Unplug the throttle sensor. – Connect a multimeter (measuring range Ωx 1k) to the blue (+) and black (–) wires of the throttle sensor. THROTTLE SENSOR RESISTANCE: 4 –...
  • Page 149 Carburettor - Idle speed adjustment The adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine starting. In other words, an engine whose idle speed is properly adjusted is easier to start than an improperly tuned engine. The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 and mixture adjusting screw 2.
  • Page 150 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 151 FRONT SUSPENSION / WHEEL Pag. 1...
  • Page 152 CONTENTS Fork components ....Chap. 8 - 4 Taking down the wheel ... . . Chap. 8 - 5 Checking the head tube seats .
  • Page 153 8 - Front suspension / wheel Release 01 Date 09/2007...

  • Page 154: Fork Components

    12 33 30 31 72 Fork components 28) Foot pad 45) Foot valve piston Supporting tube 30) Cartridge case 46) Compression damping valve Lower sliding bush 31) Inside rod reeds 32) Pump rod 48) Cap 10) Seal ring 33) Fin pull-off spring 70) Wheel holder 12) Wiper seal 34) Rebound piston fin...

  • Page 155: Taking Down The Wheel

    Taking down the wheel NOTE: Place the vehicle on a specially designed central stand and keep the front wheel off the ground. – Remove wheel holder cap 1. – Loosen the two screws 2 on the left-hand fork foot. – Remove the two screws 3 from the right-hand fork foot. –...

  • Page 156: Checking The Head Tube Seats

    If necessary, follow these steps to overhaul the steering seats: – Unscrew the four screws as shown in the figure and remove the handlebars. – Unscrew screws 1 and 2 and remove the two brackets from the head tube. Checking the head tube seats Check the seats for wear.

  • Page 157: Cleaning The Wiper Seal

    Cleaning the wiper seal NOTE: This operation can be performed with the fork installed on the vehicle. Removal – Before performing this operation, thoroughly clean leg 6. – Using a small screwdriver, pry dust scraper 12 off sheath 13 taking care not to score the fork leg. –...

  • Page 158: Draining The Oil

    Draining the oil NOTE: This operation cannot be performed while the fork is in- stalled on the vehicle. NOTE: It is advisable to slightly loosen the plug before remov- ing the fork leg from the steering plates. – Remove the fork leg from the steering plates as directed by the manufacturer.

  • Page 159: Removing The Pump Assembly And The Foot Valve

    Removing the pump assembly and the foot valve Perform this operation only after completely draining the oil from the fork leg. – Clamp the wheel holding foot of the fork leg in a vice. – Stop the rotation of the case by accurately inserting the hexa- gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of the tool.
  • Page 160 – Push rod 32 towards the inside of case 30 to allow the pump assembly to be removed from below. NOTE: The pump can be completely overhauled and adjusted. – Check ring 35 for wear. Separating the fork leg from the leg holder and removing the seal rings –...
  • Page 161 – Remove fork leg 6 from sheath 13. Pull hard to obtain the sep- aration. This operation will remove from the sheath seal ring 10, cup 9 and lower guide bush 8. – Manually remove upper guide bush 39. If the bush is difficult to remove by hand, the operation can be facilitated by insert- ing a flat blade screwdriver in the bush slot.
  • Page 162 Installation NOTE: Fins 37 and piston 36 determine the rebound damping action. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the rebound phase can be altered by replacing fins 37 and piston 36 with oth- er parts having different characteristics. Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons.
  • Page 163 Installation NOTE: Fins 46 and piston 45 determine the compression damp- ing. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the compres- sion phase can be altered by replacing fins 46 and piston 45 with other parts having different characteristics. Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons.
  • Page 164 – Remove the adhesive tape from the end of the fork leg, clean- ing it of any traces of adhesive. – Manually insert upper guide bush 39. NOTE: If the guide bush is difficult to insert by hand, the opera- tion can be facilitated by inserting a flat blade screwdriver in the bush slot.
  • Page 165 Reassembling the pump assembly and the foot valve – Insert pump rod 32 into case 30. Each pump contains a seal ring. Before reassembly, check that the seal rings are not worn or damaged and if necessary replace them. Be very careful and if necessary use a small flat blade screwdriver to facilitate the insertion of the pump piston into the tube-case.
  • Page 166 – Push preassembled pump 23 until it comes into contact with fork leg 5. – Manually screw in the foot valve. – Stop the rotation of the case by carefully inserting the hexa- gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of the tool.
  • Page 167 – Open the adjuster by completely unscrewing adjusting screw – Using two 19-mm spanners, tighten counternut 23 on plug 48 to the prescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products). – Push up the sheath along the fork leg. –...
  • Page 168 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 169 REAR SUSPENSION / WHEEL Pag. 1...
  • Page 170 CONTENTS Removing the chain ....Chap. 9 - 4 Taking down the rear wheel ..Chap. 9 - 4 Removing the rear sprocket .
  • Page 171 Before attempting to remove the rear suspension, place the vehicle on a central stand with the rear wheel off the ground. 9 - Rear suspension / wheel Release 01 Date 09/2007...
  • Page 172 Removing the chain Find the split link and position it on the rear sprocket. Remove the link with a pair of pliers and undo the chain. When refitting, it is important that the link should be fitted in the opposite direction to the rotation of the chain (see figure).
  • Page 173 Verificare che l’errore massimo di planarità sui 360° non sia su- periore a 0,04 mm. When refitting the parts, tighten them to the prescribed torques (see Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recom- mended products). Removing the swingarm Disengage the swingarm from the rear brake line and from the caliper with its support bracket.
  • Page 174 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...

  • Page 175: Braking System

    BRAKING SYSTEM Pag. 1...
  • Page 176 CONTENTS Front brake pump Overhauling the front brake pump . Chap. 10 - 4 Replacing the front brake pads ..Chap. 10 - 5 Replacing the front brake caliper pistons ....Chap. 10 - 5 Replacing the rear brake pump .
  • Page 177 Special attention should be given to the braking system. No Visually check all the components and in particular the special maintenance is required, but frequent checks and pump, the pipes and the caliper. Ensure that there are no thorough inspections are necessary, especially if the vehi- leakages and that all the components are in good condi- cle is used in competitions.

  • Page 178: Front Brake Pump

    Front brake pump Overhauling the front brake pump – Empty the system. – Unscrew front brake lever screw 1. The replacement can only be performed after emptying the system. Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Dispose in accordance with the law. –...

  • Page 179: Replacing The Front Brake Pads

    Replacing the front brake pads To replace the brake pads, follow these steps: – Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons can reach their base position. – Loosen grub screw A. – Pull out pin B while supporting the two brake pads as shown in the figure.

  • Page 180: Replacing The Rear Brake Pump

    Replacing the rear brake pump The replacement can only be performed after emptying the system. Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Dispose in accordance with the law. – Remove right-hand guard 1 (if present). – Unscrew nut 2 to disengage the brake lever pump. –...

  • Page 181: Replacing The Rear Brake Pads

    Replacing the rear brake pads To replace the brake pads, follow these steps: – Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons can reach their base position. – Loosen grub screw A. – Pull out pin B while supporting the two pads (see figure). –...
  • Page 182 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 183 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Pag. 1...
  • Page 184 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 185 WIRING DIAGRAM Euro 3 1) RIGHT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB) 2) FRONT BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON 3) START BUTTON 4) WHEEL REVOLUTION SENSOR 5) SCROLL BUTTON 6) TELL TALE LAMP (NO CONECT) 7) HEADLIGHT TELL TALE LAMP 8) TRAFFICATOR LIGHTS TELL TALE LAMP 9) DISPLAY 10) ENGINE STOP BUTTON 11) HORN BUTTON...
  • Page 186 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 187 WIRING DIAGRAM RR4T USA WHEEL SENSOR STARTING BUTTON PUSHBUTTON SCROLL NO CONNECT TELL TALE LAMP NO CONNECT TELL TALE LAMP NO CONNECT TELL TALE LAMP DISPLAY ENGINE STOP BUTTON LIGHTS SWICH CONTROL GROUP REGULATOR ELECTROVALVE KIT (OPTIONAL) TAIL LAMP (LED) FUSE 10 A EARTH BRAID POSITIVE BATTERY...
  • Page 188 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 189 WIRING DIAGRAM RS4T USA RIGHT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB) FRONT BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON START BUTTON WHEEL REVOLUTION SENSOR HIGH BEAM WARNING LIGHT TURN INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY LOW BEAM WARNING LIGHT NOT CONNECTED MODE BUTTON ENGINE STOP BUTTON HORN BUTTON LIGHTS SELECTOR SWITCH TURN INDICATOR SWITCH LEFT-HAND CONTROL SET...
  • Page 190 CONTENTS Checking for leakage currents ..Chap. 11 - 5 Removing and reinstalling the battery Chap. 11 - 5 Charging the battery ....Chap. 11 - 5 Filling the battery .

  • Page 191: Checking For Leakage Currents

    Checking for leakage currents Check for leakage currents before inspecting the regulator-rec- tifier. – Disconnect the ignition and remove the earth cable from the battery. – Connect and ampere meter between the earth cable and the negative terminal of the battery. Nominal value: max.

  • Page 192: Filling The Battery

    Filling the battery – Remove the battery and the electrolyte container from the package. Before starting to fill the battery, read through the enclosed in- struction slip. – Open the electrolyte container. – Insert the electrolyte container in the battery filler openings and push it down hard.

  • Page 193: Checking The Voltage Regulators

    Checking the voltage regulators If a regulator is suspected of being defective, it should be repla- ced, if possible, with one that is known to be in working order. Alternatively, take a few measurements to determine whether it is operating properly: –...

  • Page 194: Cdi Unit

    CDI unit Check the wires and connectors of the CDI unit. The operation of the CDI unit can only be checked on a specially designed test bench for ignitions. IMPORTANT: NEVER CHECK THE CDI UNIT WITH STAN- DARD MEASURING EQUIPMENT AS THIS COULD IRREPA- RABLY DAMAGE HIGHLY SENSITIVE ELECTRONIC COMPO- NENTS.

  • Page 195: Main Fuse

    Main fuse Fuse 3 is installed in starting relay 4 under right-hand side pa- nel 5. To gain access to the fuse, remove the saddle and lift swinging support 6 to expose the battery. The fuse protects the following users: –...

  • Page 196: Checking The Starter Motor

    Checking the starter motor – Disconnect the battery negative terminal and remove the star- ter motor. – Connect the negative terminal of a 12 V battery to the starter motor casing and momentarily connect the battery positive terminal with starter motor connector 3 (use thick cables). –...

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