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Beta RR 4T-250 Workshop Manual
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Beta RR 4T-250 Workshop Manual

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WORKSHOP MANUAL

RR 4T - 250 - 400 - 450 - 525

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Summary of Contents for Beta RR 4T-250

  • Page 1: Workshop Manual

    WORKSHOP MANUAL RR 4T - 250 - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 2 INTRODUCTION This publication has been designed to assist authorized service personnel of Betamotor Workshops in maintaining and repairing the vehicle referred to in the manual. Famil- iarity with the specifications contained herein is a key fac- tor in the technical training of operators. In order to make the manual easy to read and understand, the different paragraphs are marked with icons that point out the subject dealt with.

  • Page 3: General Information

    GENERAL CONTENTS 1 General information 2 Specific tools 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products 4 Maintenance 5 Bodywork and fittings 6 Engine 7 Carburettor 8 Front suspension/wheel 9 Rear suspension/wheel 10 Braking system 11 Electrical system Workshop manual RR 4T - 250 - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 4 CONTENTS HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL ..Chap. 1 - 7 GENERAL CONTENTS ... . . Chap. 1 - 7 Arrangement of subjects ... Chap. 1 - 7 Description of operations .
  • Page 5 HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL GENERAL CONTENTS Arrangement of subjects The manual is divided into chapters that cover the main sub- assemblies of the vehicle. To make the different chapters easy to find, the pages of each chapter bear a reference mark that is aligned with the related title in the general contents.
  • Page 6 TERMS AND SYMBOLS Whenever the words left, right, upper, NOTE When performing these oper- lower, front and rear are used, reference IMPORTANT ations, flammable vapours is made to the vehicle in its normal direc- can be released and metal tion of travel. parts can be ejected at high speed.
  • Page 7 CONVENTION In order to clarify the left/right convention used in this manual, a diagram of the vehicle and engine are provided below with an indication of how the two sides are referred to in the manual. 1 - General information Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 8 SAFETY The information contained in this paragraph is designed to minimize the risks the operator runs WARNING when working on the vehicle. Carbon monoxide • Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide (CO), a poisonous gas that can cause loss of consciousness and even death. •...
  • Page 9 Brake fluid Battery • The brake fluid is highly corrosive. • The battery produces explosive gases. Keep it away • Avoid contact with the eyes, the skin and the mucous from sparks, flames and cigarettes. Only recharge it in membranes. well ventilated places.
  • Page 10 OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION The frame number is stamped on the right side of the head tube. The engine number is stamped on the upper crankcase half, next to the swingarm. 2) engine number 3) type-approval data 1) frame number The following is an example of frame number format: ZD3 E1 XX XXXXXXXXXX Manufacturer’s data...

  • Page 11: Specifications

    SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Engine Type single-cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, with countershaft and electric start Displacement 250 cc 398 cc 448 cc 510 cc Bore/stroke 75 / 56,5 mm 89 / 64 mm 89 / 72 mm 95 / 72 mm Compression ratio 12 : 1 11 : 1...
  • Page 12 SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE CARBURETTOR TUNING 400/450 Carburettor type Keihin FCR-MX 37 Keihin FCR-MX 39 Keihin FCR-MX 39 Carburettor code 3700A 3900A 3900B Main jet Jet needle OBEKT OBDVR OBDVT Idling jet Main air jet Idling air jet Needle valve position Starting jet Fuel mixture adj.
  • Page 13 SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE TIGHTENING TORQUES Description Type Tightening Crankcase, clutch cover, ignition cover flange screws 10 N·m Oil drain screw M12x1.5 20 N·m Short oil unit socket-head screw M16x1.5 10 N·m Long oil unit hexagonal-head screw M20x1.5 15 N·m Oil filter cover flange screw 6 N·m Bypass valve screw M12x1.5...
  • Page 14 SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE FITS, WEAR LIMITS Crankshaft axial play ........0,1 - 0,2 mm offset between shaft sections .
  • Page 15 SPECIFICATIONS - CYCLE PARTS 250/400/450/525 Frame Single-beam, molybdenum steel frame with double cradle split over exhaust port Fork “MARZOCCHI” hydraulic upside-down fork (leg Ø 45) Front/rear suspension travel 290/300 mm Rear suspension SACHS monoshocks with progressive leverage Front brake Floating steel disc Ø 255 mm with floating caliper Rear brake Steel disc Ø...
  • Page 16 SPECIFICATIONS - FRAME TIGHTENING TORQUES 4 fork foot screws 10 N·m Front brake caliper M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 30 N·m Front brake disc Loctite 243 + 15 N·m Rear brake disc M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 20 N·m Upper fork plate clamping screws M8 CH10 20 N·m Lower fork plate clamping screws...

  • Page 17: Recommended Lubricants

    PLANNED MAINTENANCE Interval hours (h) after/every 15 Item fuel (litres) Air filter (after each off-road ride) Valves Spark plug (replace every 30 hours) Idle speed Throttle cable play Clutch Engine oil Engine oil filter Engine oil gauze strainer Exhaust pipe bolts Brakes Brake lines (replace every 4 years) Brake fluid (renew every 2 years)
  • Page 18 Oil circuit Oil pump 3 sucks the engine oil from the gearbox oil sump through long oil unit 4. The oil flows through oil line 5 into the cylinder head to camshaft lubrication point 6. The oil quantity is adjusted by means of oilway screw 7. A pipe branches off to long oil unit 8, where the coarser particles are filtered from the oil.
  • Page 19 Cleaning the short oil unit Short oil unit 1 is fitted into socket-head screw 2 on the lower side of the engine. Insert an Allen key into the socket and un- screw the oil drain screw. Remove the oil unit, thoroughly clean its components and blow them with low-pressure compressed air.
  • Page 20 Replacing the oil filter Remove screw 1 and place a container under the engine to col- lect the drained oil. Remove the four screws 2 and take off the two oil filter covers. ENVIRONMENT: Dispose of spent oils in compliance with applicable laws.
  • Page 21 Checking the front brake fluid level Check the brake fluid level by looking through sight A. The lev- el should never fall below the mark in the sight. Restoring the front brake fluid level To restore the brake fluid level, unscrew the two screws 1, lift cap 2 and pour in fresh fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level is 5 mm below the upper rim of the reservoir.
  • Page 22 Checking the rear brake fluid level Ensure the brake fluid level by looking through sight D. The lev- el should never fall below the mark in the sight. Restoring the rear brake fluid level To restore the brake fluid level, unscrew cap 3 and pour in fresh fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level reaches the mark in sight D.
  • Page 23 Checking the front brake pads To check the wear of the front brake pads, visually inspect the caliper from below. The lining on the visible ends of the two brake pads should be at least 2 mm thick. Should the lining be thinner, immediately replace the brake pads.
  • Page 24 Checking the level of the hydraulic clutch fluid To check the level of the fluid in the clutch pump, it is first nec- essary to remove cover 2. Remove the two screws 1 and take off cover 2 together with the rubber bellows.
  • Page 25 Fork oil Left/right fork leg To renew the oil, follow these steps: – Unscrew the four screws B fastening handlebar clamp C and remove the handlebars. – Loosen leg clamping screws D and E. – Remove lower plug F and upper plug A (pay attention to the spring).
  • Page 26 Air filter A dirty air filter blocks the passage of air, reduces engine power and increases fuel consumption. For these reasons, it is essen- tial to maintain the oil filter on a regular basis. To gain access to the filter, follow these steps: –...
  • Page 27 Spark plug Maintaining the spark plug in good condition makes for reduced fuel consumption and optimum engine performance. It is prefer- able to remove the spark plug when the engine is hot (obvious- ly after switching it off) as the carbon formation and the colour of the insulator provide important information on carburation, lubri- cation and the general condition of the engine.
  • Page 28 Carburettor - Idle speed adjustment The adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine start- ing, i.e. an engine whose idle speed is properly adjusted is eas- ier to start than an improperly tuned engine. The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 and mixture adjusting screw 2.
  • Page 29 Emptying the float chamber Should the float chamber need to be emptied, use the following procedure when the engine is cold. Close the fuel cock and place pipe 4 in a container to collect the fuel that will flow out. Open drain screw 5 and drain the fuel.
  • Page 30 Chain maintenance The life of the chain mainly depends on its maintenance. Chain without X-rings should be regularly cleaned in petroleum and then immersed in hot chain oil or treated with chain spray. The maintenance of X-ring chains is reduced to a minimum. The best way to clean them is to use plenty of water. Never attempt to clean an X-ring chain with brushes or solvents.
  • Page 31 SUSPENSIONS Fork Adjusting the rebound damping The hydraulic rebound damping unit determines the behaviour of the fork during the rebound phase and is adjusted by means of screw A. Turning the screw clockwise (towards the + sign) or anticlockwise (towards the – sign) respectively increases or de- creases the rebound damping.
  • Page 32 Adjusting the spring preload Use the following procedure to adjust the spring preload. Loosen locknut 1, turn ring nut 2 clockwise to increase the spring preload (and consequently the shock absorber preload) and anticlockwise to decrease it. Once the desired preload has been obtained, turn locknut 1 until it comes into contact with ad- justing ring nut 2.

  • Page 33: Digital Speedometer

    DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER CYCLING THROUGH THE FUNCTIONS Cycling through the functions is possible both while riding and when the vehicle is stationary. Simply press button C or D to dis- play the different functions in the following order: TIME - LAP - TOD - TD - COUNTDOWN USE OF THE BUTTONS INSTANT SPEED FUNCTION Depending on the function that is displayed at a given mo-...
  • Page 34 This information is accompanied by the abbreviation TOD. Depending on the selected unit, the information is displayed in kilometres (default) or miles and stored in nonvolatile memory. Under normal operating conditions, this information cannot be reset. Automatic trip function (TD) T ≥...
  • Page 35 CHANGING THE WHEEL CIRCUMFERENCE, UNIT AND NUMBER OF PULSES The wheel circumference, the unit and the number of wheel pulses can be altered only when the vehicle is stationary. Hold down the button while the TOD function is active until the only information displayed is the circumference and all the other segments are switched off.
  • Page 36 Removing the plastics To make some areas of the vehicle easier to check and service, it is first necessary to remove parts of the bodywork as de- scribed below. Removing the saddle Remove the two fixing screws A (one on each side), lift the sad- dle as shown in the figure and pull it back and off the vehicle.
  • Page 37 Removing the front side panels Unscrew the eight fixing screws E (four on each side) and take off the front side panels. Removing the rear side panels Unscrew the four fixing screws F (two on each side) and take off the rear side panels.
  • Page 38 Removing the front mudguard Remove the four screws L from under the front mudguard. Also remove mudguard brace fixing screw M from under the mudguard. Finally remove the two brace fixing screws N from the top of the brace. Removing the fork covers Unscrew the eight fixing screws P (five on the left side and three on the right side) and remove the fork covers.
  • Page 39 Removing the headlight grille Release the two rubber bands Q as shown in the figure, pull out the headlight and remove grille R. Workshop manual RR 4T - 250 - 400 - 450 - 525...
  • Page 40 Place the vehicle on a central stand. Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 4 Maintenance). Removing the saddle Remove the left-hand and right-hand saddle screws. Remove the saddle by pulling it towards the back of the vehicle. Removing the fuel tank To remove the tank together with the deflectors, unscrew the left-hand and right-hand screws fixing it to the radiator.
  • Page 41 Removing the right-hand side panel To gain access to the silencer fixing screws, it is first necessary to remove the right-hand side panel. Pay attention to the plastic catches between the side pan- el and the mudguard. Removing the silencer Loosen the two screws shown in the figure.
  • Page 42 Removing the left-hand radiator To remove the left-hand radiator, it is first necessary to discon- nect the upper pipe after removing the clamp as shown in the figure. Subsequently remove the clamp as shown in the figure and re- move the lower pipe. Removing the horn Remove the horn and the related bracket so as to facilitate the removal of the plastic bumper.
  • Page 43 Removing the intake sleeve Disconnect the carburettor intake sleeve. Rear frame Remove the two screws 1 to the left and right of the rear frame and loosen the two screws 2. Disconnecting the electrical system Disconnect all the electrical connections, cutting the wire clamps where necessary.
  • Page 44 Disengaging the exhaust pipe Release the two springs that support the exhaust pipe with the cylinder Take care to avoid hand injury. Remove the screw that fixes the exhaust pipe to the frame. Releasing the rear shock absorber Disengage the shock absorber from the frame as shown in the figure.
  • Page 45 Removing the engine/swingarm pin Remove the engine/swingarm pin. For safety reasons, it is ad- visable to unscrew the left side while holding the pin in position on the right side. Removing the rear suspension linkage Remove the linkage pin as previously described. Removing the rear end The swingarm assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.
  • Page 46 Removing the brake pedal pull-off spring Removing the spark plug cap Removing the water delivery pipe from the pump Removing the front sprocket casing Unscrew screw 1 and screw 2 on the opposite side. Removing the clutch pump assembly Remove the clutch assembly without disconnecting the pipe so as to avoid having to fill and bleed the system again.
  • Page 47 Releasing the decompressor cable Removing the engine Remove the lower engine/frame pivot pin. Remove the upper engine/frame pivot pin. Removing the kickstart Loosen the screw shown in the figure and remove the kickstart. Removing the engine from the frame Remove the engine from the frame, extracting it from the left side.
  • Page 48 Draining the oil – Remove screws 1, 2 e 3 and drain the engine oil into a con- tainer. – Remove the kickstart and the gearchange lever. NOTE: Dispose of spent oil without polluting the environ- ment. Should the engine oil come into contact with the skin, wash with plenty of soap and water.
  • Page 49 Removing the clutch – Unscrew all clutch cover screws and remove the cover with its gasket. – Remove the two centring bushes from the crankcase. – To prevent the clutch plates from jamming when the clutch springs are released, loosen the screws following a crosswise pattern.
  • Page 50 – Position the special tool as shown in the figure, unscrew the primary torque gear flange nut and remove it. – Remove the special tool. THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEAR- ING THE CAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND THREAD.
  • Page 51 – Remove clutch drum 1 together with stepped washer 2 and the two half washers 3 from the driving shaft. – Remove the two needle roller bearings 4 and the support washer. Removing the oil pump – Unscrew the two screws 5 and remove the oil pump cover. –...
  • Page 52 Removing the cylinder head top – Unscrew all six screws with the related seal rings and remove the two valve covers 1 with their gaskets. – Unscrew the spark plug. – Unscrew the four screws and remove water pump cover 2 with the related gasket.
  • Page 53 – Position the timing chain separating tool and undo the chain (see figure). – ENSURE THAT THE EJECTED NAILS DO NOT FALL INTO THE ENGINE. – HOLD THE TIMING CHAIN IN POSITION SO THAT IT DOES NOT FALL DOWN TOWARDS THE CHAIN CASING. –...
  • Page 54 – Remove the Seeger ring and push the piston pin out of the piston. Remove the piston. Removing the timing chain and gear – Loosen the two screws 1 and remove chain guard 2. – Remove the timing chain. – Remove screws 3 and 4, pull the chain stretcher and the chain guide up and out of the crankcase.
  • Page 55 Removing the electric start and kickstart gears – Remove the two Seeger rings 1 and the thrust washers. Re- move kickstart idler gear 2 and electric start idler gear 3 from their support pins. – Remove the double gear and the needle roller cage from the support pin.
  • Page 56 Removing the primary torque gear and the free wheel – Remove flange nut 1. NOTE: THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEARING THE CAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND THREAD. THOSE WITH NO INSCRIPTION HAVE A RIGHT-HAND THREAD. –...
  • Page 57 Removing the gearshift mechanism and the gear shafts – Lay down the engine on one side. – Release the engine fastening on the stand. – Detach the left-hand crankcase half using suitable tools posi- tioned on the specially designed supports. Alternatively, gen- tly tap the driven shaft with a plastic mallet.
  • Page 58 Removing the countershaft and the crankshaft – Turn the crankshaft until the marks on the countershaft and the crankshaft are aligned. – In this position the crankshaft can be removed from its seat. – Remove the crankshaft. – Clean all the parts, check them for wear and replace as nec- essary.
  • Page 59 Left-hand crankcase half Remove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an oven at a temperature of approximately 150° C. Crankshaft roller bearing 1 Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fit the new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end. Driving shaft ball bearing 2 Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside.
  • Page 60 The oil pump casing should show no signs of scoring or seizu- Blow all the oil channels with compressed air and ensure that they are clear. Check that the two steady pins 1 are firmly seated. If necessary lock with Loctite 243. Right-hand crankcase half Remove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an oven to a temperature of approximately 150°...
  • Page 61 Countershaft ball bearing 1 and oil seal 2 Using a suitable puller, extract the ball bearing from the crank- case half and remove the oil seal. Press in the new oil seal with the open side facing downwards until it is flush. Press in the new ball bearing to its abutting end.
  • Page 62 “100” oil jet 1 Remove the oil jet and blow the oil channel with compressed air. Degrease the oil jet thread, apply Loctite 243 and refit the oil jet. NOTE: : This jet provides the right quantity of oil for the con- necting rod bearing.
  • Page 63 Crankshaft If the connecting rod bearing is replaced, take care to properly position the coupling shaft. The holes in the shaft section A and in the coupling shaft B must be aligned. IF THE COUPLING SHAFT IS FORCED IN OUT OF PO- SITION, THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING WILL RE- CEIVE LITTLE OR NO OIL AND WILL CONSEQUENTLY BE DAMAGED.
  • Page 64 Measuring the outside diameter of the handwheels Using a vernier caliper, measure the outside diameter of the handwheels as shown in the figure. Outside diameter of handwheels = 65 mm ± 0.05 mm Countershaft gear – To remove the countershaft gear from the crankshaft, it is first necessary to remove the inner ring nut of the cylindrical roller bearing (see below).
  • Page 65 Cylinder - Nikasil lining Nikasil is the trademark of a cylinder lining procedure developed by the piston manufacturer Mahle. The name is derived from the two materials used in the procedure – nickel containing silicon carbide to make a particularly hard substance. The principal ad- vantages of Nikasil are excellent heat dissipation, making for an increased power supply, and reduced cylinder weight and wear.
  • Page 66 Checking the piston – Replace the piston if oil consumption is excessive or if the pi- ston skirt is scored. – If the piston is to be reused: 1.Check the wear of the piston sliding surface. 2.Check that the piston rings can move freely in their grooves. Clean the grooves with an old piston ring or with emery paper (400 grain).
  • Page 67 Lubrication system Oil line 1 Ensure that the soldered joints present no capillary cracks. Blow the oil line with compressed air to check whether the pas- sage is clear. Also check that there are no friction points on the oil line. Always replace the seal rings with new ones (8x12x1).
  • Page 68 Cylinder head top – Remove Seeger ring 1 and pull decompressor shaft 2 and spring 3 out of the hole. – Remove the two terminals 4 from the cylinder head top to- gether with rocker arm pivots 5 and 6. Remove rocker arms 7. –...
  • Page 69 modelli 250 modelli 250 Cylinder head – Unscrew the three screws 1 and remove exhaust flange 2 to- gether with its gasket. – Using the specially designed tool, remove the four valves. – The 250 cc model fits conical valves. –...
  • Page 70 – Remove spring caps 1 and valve springs 2 from the cylinder head. – Remove the valve stem linings from the valve guides and re- move spring holders 3. The 250 cc model fits conical springs. Sealing surface Check the spark thread and the valve seats for damage or cracks.
  • Page 71 Camshaft – Remove Seeger ring 1 and water pump impeller 2. – Pull out roller 3 from the shaft hole and remove lining holder 4 from the camshaft. – Remove ball bearing 5 from the camshaft with a suitable pul- ler (see figure).
  • Page 72 – Press oil seals 1 out of seal holding bush 2. – Fit the new oil seals with the gaps facing outward, pressing them in until they are flush. Carefully grease the sealing lips. – Remove the two O-rings 3 from the seal holding bush and re- move any residues with a wire brush.
  • Page 73 Automatic stretcher – Fully extract the automatic stretcher pressure pin and check that it can slide freely. – Check the wear of the pressure pin teeth and the dog. – When refitting, push the dog in the direction indicated by the arrow so that the pressure pin no longer jams and then fully insert the pressure pin into the stretcher body.
  • Page 74 Checking the clutch for wear Clutch hub 8 Thrust head 1 Check for damage and signs of wear. Check the thrust head for signs of seizure and ensure that it can slide freely. Pressure plate 9 Check for signs of damage on contact surface A with the Axial bearing 2 steel plate.
  • Page 75 Checking the kickstart for wear Remove all components from the kickstart shaft and clean them. Starter gear 1 Check the wear of the teeth and the play of the support. Starter idler gear 2 Check to see if there is any play or any sign of seizure on the sup- port.
  • Page 76 Gearshift mechanism Gearshift forks 1 Check wear at ends A. When the forks are new, their thickness ranges from 4.8 to 4.9 mm. The wear limit is 4.6 mm. Desmodromic mechanism 2 Check the wear of profiled grooves B. Check the desmodromic mechanism support in ball bearing 3. Ball bearing 3 Check that it can turn smoothly.
  • Page 77 Gearbox Clamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Remove the gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure: • Needle roller cages. • Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears. •...
  • Page 78 Gearbox Clamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Remove the gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure: • Needle roller cages. • Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears. •...
  • Page 79 Ignition system General information The measurements described below are only used to find easily detectable faults. Inside short circuits, which pro- duce feeble sparks with a low ignition power, can only be discovered with a specially designed ignition test bench. In case of problems first check the wires and connectors of the ignition system.
  • Page 80 Electric start gears Idler gear 1 Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the idler gear for signs of wear. Also check the idler gear support pin for signs of seizure. Double gear 2 Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the double gear for signs of wear. Also check the double gear support pin for signs of seizure.
  • Page 81 Checking the operation of the free wheel – Fit free wheel gear 1 on free wheel device 2. – The free wheel gear should rotate clockwise. – Attempting to rotate the free wheel gear anticlockwise should lock the gear with no idle travel. Replacing the free wheel hub –...
  • Page 82 Fitting the crankshaft and the countershaft – Fasten the right-hand crankcase half to the assembly stand. – Carefully oil the crankshaft roller bearing and grease the oil seal. – Carefully insert the crankshaft into the bearing. – Turn the crankshaft until mark A is at the front and then insert the countershaft into its bearing.
  • Page 83 – Oil the ends of the gearshift forks and attach them to the slid- ing gears. – Insert the desmodromic mechanism into its bearing. – Attach the gearshift forks to the desmodromic mechanism and fit the two fork guide rods 2 along with the springs. –...
  • Page 84 M6x... NOTE: This diagram shows all the lengths of the carter fixing screws. Assembling the crankcase – Remove the engine retainer from the stand. – Apply a thin film of grease to the crankcase sealing surface and fit a new gasket. –...
  • Page 85 Fitting the oil pumps – Using a cloth, carefully clean the rest surface of the oil pump cover. – Insert the roller into the oil pump shaft. – Fit the inner and outer rotors to the oil pump shaft so that the two centres A and B are placed next to each other, and then insert all the part into the crankcase.
  • Page 86 Fitting the gear selector – Fit screw 1 (M5x20) with washer 2, selector lever 3, spring holding bush 4 and selector lever spring 5. – Apply Loctite 243 to the screw thread and tighten the screw to 6 N·m. – Move the selector lever away from the desmodromic mecha- nism and fit the latter with the gear selector.
  • Page 87 – Insert the support pins into the crankcase holes. Fit needle roller cage 1 and double gear 2. – Insert the preassembled kickstart shaft into the bearing hole so that the starter coupling is located behind the release plate. – Attach the spring link to the starter spring, apply Loctite 243 to the thread of screw 3 (M6x12), preload the starter spring by turning it about 45 degrees clockwise, fasten the spring link with the screw and tighten to 10 N·m.
  • Page 88 Fitting the clutch drum and hub – Insert the support washer and needle roller bearings 1. – Fit the driving shaft with clutch drum 2, half washers 3 and stepped washer 4. – Heat the clutch hub to approx. 150° C and key it on the driving shaft.
  • Page 89 Fitting the timing gear – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft. – Heat timing pinion 1 and fit it to the crankshaft with the high end facing inward. If necessary, gently tap with a suitable tube. –...
  • Page 90 Fitting the piston and the cylinder – Fit a new cylinder base gasket. – Oil the piston pin bearing in the connecting rod and the piston pin itself. – Fit the piston and fasten the piston pin with two new retaining rings.
  • Page 91 Ensure that drain hole A is facing upwards. – Insert the camshaft in the cylinder head so that marks B on the camshaft gear are aligned with the upper edge of the cylin- der (see figure). The automatic decompressor stop screw must be positioned at the top.
  • Page 92 Fitting the cylinder head top – Clean or degrease the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head top and the cylinder head itself. – Insert the centring bushes in the cylinder head. – Apply a thin film of sealant (Three Bond) over the cylinder head sealing surface.
  • Page 93 Fitting the automatic stretcher – Fit the preassembled automatic stretcher 1 with a new gasket. – Fit the two screws (M6x20) with the 6x10x1 copper rings and tighten them to 8 N·m. – Using a screwdriver, push in the pressure pin until a slight re- sistance is felt, then push it in one further notch.
  • Page 94 Fitting the flywheel – Unscrew the crankshaft fixing screw, fit seal ring 1 and tighten the crankshaft fixing screw to 25 N·m (see above). – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft and then fit the flywheel on the crankshaft. –...
  • Page 95 Fitting the clutch – Before fitting the clutch, carefully oil the lined plates. Clutch plates – Place the twelve dragging bushes 3 in the hub. If necessary fix them with a little grease. – Starting with a middle plate 6, alternate eight middle plates with seven lined plates 5, ending with a thin middle plate 6 at the top.
  • Page 96 Fitting the oil line - Position oil line 3 and fasten it with the two oilway screws 1 and 2, using new seal rings. Tightening torque: 10 N·m. Position the oil line so that it does not come into contact with the engine.
  • Page 97 Fitting the oil filter – Pour engine oil into the oil filter casings until they are about 1/4 full. – Insert the two oil filters 1 in the crankcase. – Oil the O-rings on the oil filter covers and fix covers 2 with the four screws (M5x16), applying a tightening torque of 6 N·m.
  • Page 98 CARBURETTOR - KEIHIN FCR M X 39 7 - Carburettor Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 99 Removing and reinstalling the carburettor NOTE: Before starting work on the carburettor, thoroughly clean the vehicle. – Remove the saddle and the fuel tank with the deflectors. – Unscrew the throttle twist grip. – Loosen the clamp screw on the float chamber, drain the fuel into a suitable container, then tighten the screw again.
  • Page 100 Disassembling the carburettor NOTE: The disassembly should be carried out in a clean work- place with sufficient space to properly arrange all carburettor components. – Remove the carburettor and clean it of coarse dirt. – Loosen the two screws 1 and remove all breather pipes from the carburettor.
  • Page 101 – Rotate the carburettor, loosen the three screws and remove the accelerating pump cover. NOTE: When removing the cover, ensure that the spring and the seal rings are not lost. – Remove the two seal rings, the spring and the diaphragm from the pump casing.
  • Page 102 – Remove screws 1 and throttle sensor 2. Remove the throttle sensor only if it is defective. The throttle speed sensor needs to be readjusted every time screws 1 are loosened. – Remove screw 3 and pull the connecting piece out of the car- burettor.
  • Page 103 Choke valves Ensure that choke knob piston 1 presents no deep scoring or residues. Checking the accelerating pump Check that the diaphragm is not cracked or porous. Check that the gaskets are not damaged. Ensure that holes 2 are clear. Checking the jet needle Ensure that the jet needle is not bent or worn.
  • Page 104 Reassembling the carburettor – Fit choke idling jet 1 and choke main jet 2. – Fit O-ring 3 in the groove and fasten the suction pump to the carburettor with the two screws. – Insert the fuel connection into the carburettor and fasten it with screw 4.
  • Page 105 – Position the float and the needle valve and fit float pin 1. – Check the float level (see page 14). – Fit the carburettor float chamber complete with its gasket, po- sition adjusting screw support 2 and fasten the float chamber by means of screws 3.
  • Page 106 – Apply Loctite 243 to screw 1 and tighten it. – Fit the jet needle and fasten it with screw 2. – Position the throttle valve cover with the related gasket and fasten it with the two screws 3. – Fasten the breather pipes with the two float chamber screws 7 - Carburettor Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 107 Checking the throttle sensor NOTE: The following measurement should be taken when the temperature of the part is approximately 20° C. – Unplug the throttle sensor. – Connect a multimeter (measuring range Ωx 1k) to the blue (+) and black (–) wires of the throttle sensor. THROTTLE SENSOR RESISTANCE: 4 –...
  • Page 108 Carburettor - Idle speed adjustment The adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine starting. In other words, an engine whose idle speed is properly adjusted is easier to start than an improperly tuned engine. The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 and mixture adjusting screw 2.
  • Page 109 8 - Front suspension / wheel Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 110 12 33 30 31 72 Fork components 28) Foot pad 45) Foot valve piston Supporting tube 30) Cartridge case 46) Compression damping valve Lower sliding bush 31) Inside rod reeds 32) Pump rod 48) Cap 10) Seal ring 33) Fin pull-off spring 70) Wheel holder 12) Wiper seal 34) Rebound piston fin...
  • Page 111 Taking down the wheel NOTE: Place the vehicle on a specially designed central stand and keep the front wheel off the ground. – Remove wheel holder cap 1. – Loosen the two screws 2 on the left-hand fork foot. – Remove the two screws 3 from the right-hand fork foot. –...
  • Page 112 If necessary, follow these steps to overhaul the steering seats: – Unscrew the four screws as shown in the figure and remove the handlebars. – Unscrew screws 1 and 2 and remove the two brackets from the head tube. Checking the head tube seats Check the seats for wear.
  • Page 113 Cleaning the wiper seal NOTE: This operation can be performed with the fork installed on the vehicle. Removal – Before performing this operation, thoroughly clean leg 6. – Using a small screwdriver, pry dust scraper 12 off sheath 13 taking care not to score the fork leg. –...
  • Page 114 Draining the oil NOTE: This operation cannot be performed while the fork is in- stalled on the vehicle. NOTE: It is advisable to slightly loosen the plug before remov- ing the fork leg from the steering plates. – Remove the fork leg from the steering plates as directed by the manufacturer.
  • Page 115 Removing the pump assembly and the foot valve Perform this operation only after completely draining the oil from the fork leg. – Clamp the wheel holding foot of the fork leg in a vice. – Stop the rotation of the case by accurately inserting the hexa- gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of the tool.
  • Page 116 – Push rod 32 towards the inside of case 30 to allow the pump assembly to be removed from below. NOTE: The pump can be completely overhauled and adjusted. – Check ring 35 for wear. Separating the fork leg from the leg holder and removing the seal rings –...
  • Page 117 – Remove fork leg 6 from sheath 13. Pull hard to obtain the sep- aration. This operation will remove from the sheath seal ring 10, cup 9 and lower guide bush 8. – Manually remove upper guide bush 39. If the bush is difficult to remove by hand, the operation can be facilitated by insert- ing a flat blade screwdriver in the bush slot.
  • Page 118 Installation NOTE: Fins 37 and piston 36 determine the rebound damping action. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the rebound phase can be altered by replacing fins 37 and piston 36 with oth- er parts having different characteristics. Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons.
  • Page 119 Installation NOTE: Fins 46 and piston 45 determine the compression damp- ing. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the compres- sion phase can be altered by replacing fins 46 and piston 45 with other parts having different characteristics. Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons.
  • Page 120 – Remove the adhesive tape from the end of the fork leg, clean- ing it of any traces of adhesive. – Manually insert upper guide bush 39. NOTE: If the guide bush is difficult to insert by hand, the opera- tion can be facilitated by inserting a flat blade screwdriver in the bush slot.
  • Page 121 Reassembling the pump assembly and the foot valve – Insert pump rod 32 into case 30. Each pump contains a seal ring. Before reassembly, check that the seal rings are not worn or damaged and if necessary replace them. Be very careful and if necessary use a small flat blade screwdriver to facilitate the insertion of the pump piston into the tube-case.
  • Page 122 – Push preassembled pump 23 until it comes into contact with fork leg 5. – Manually screw in the foot valve. – Stop the rotation of the case by carefully inserting the hexa- gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of the tool.
  • Page 123 – Open the adjuster by completely unscrewing adjusting screw – Using two 19-mm spanners, tighten counternut 23 on plug 48 to the prescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products). – Push up the sheath along the fork leg. –...
  • Page 124 Before attempting to remove the rear suspension, place the vehicle on a central stand with the rear wheel off the ground. 9 - Rear suspension / wheel Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 125 Removing the chain Find the split link and position it on the rear sprocket. Remove the link with a pair of pliers and undo the chain. When refitting, it is important that the link should be fitted in the opposite direction to the rotation of the chain (see figure).
  • Page 126 Also check that the planarity on 360 degrees does not exceed 0.4 mm. When refitting the parts, tighten them to the prescribed torques (see Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recom- mended products). Removing the swingarm Disengage the swingarm from the rear brake line and from the caliper with its support bracket.
  • Page 127 Special attention should be given to the braking system. No Visually check all the components and in particular the special maintenance is required, but frequent checks and pump, the pipes and the caliper. Ensure that there are no thorough inspections are necessary, especially if the vehi- leakages and that all the components are in good condi- cle is used in competitions.
  • Page 128 Front brake pump Overhauling the front brake pump – Empty the system. – Unscrew front brake lever screw 1. The replacement can only be performed after emptying the system. Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Dispose in accordance with the law. –...
  • Page 129 Replacing the front brake pads To replace the brake pads, follow these steps: – Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons can reach their base position. – Loosen grub screw A. – Pull out pin B while supporting the two brake pads as shown in the figure.
  • Page 130 Replacing the rear brake pump The replacement can only be performed after emptying the system. Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Dispose in accordance with the law. – Remove right-hand guard 1 (if present). – Unscrew nut 2 to disengage the brake lever pump. –...
  • Page 131 Replacing the rear brake pads To replace the brake pads, follow these steps: – Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons can reach their base position. – Loosen grub screw A. – Pull out pin B while supporting the two pads (see figure). –...
  • Page 133 11 - Electrical system Release 00 Date 02/2005...
  • Page 134 Checking for leakage currents Check for leakage currents before inspecting the regulator-rec- tifier. – Disconnect the ignition and remove the earth cable from the battery. – Connect and ampere meter between the earth cable and the negative terminal of the battery. Nominal value: max.
  • Page 135 Filling the battery – Remove the battery and the electrolyte container from the package. Before starting to fill the battery, read through the enclosed in- struction slip. – Open the electrolyte container. – Insert the electrolyte container in the battery filler openings and push it down hard.
  • Page 136 Checking the voltage regulators If a regulator is suspected of being defective, it should be repla- ced, if possible, with one that is known to be in working order. Alternatively, take a few measurements to determine whether it is operating properly: –...
  • Page 137 CDI unit Check the wires and connectors of the CDI unit. The operation of the CDI unit can only be checked on a specially designed test bench for ignitions. IMPORTANT: NEVER CHECK THE CDI UNIT WITH STAN- DARD MEASURING EQUIPMENT AS THIS COULD IRREPA- RABLY DAMAGE HIGHLY SENSITIVE ELECTRONIC COMPO- NENTS.
  • Page 138 Main fuse Fuse 3 is installed in starting relay 4 under right-hand side pa- nel 5. To gain access to the fuse, remove the saddle and lift swinging support 6 to expose the battery. The fuse protects the following users: –...
  • Page 139 Checking the starter motor – Disconnect the battery negative terminal and remove the star- ter motor. – Connect the negative terminal of a 12 V battery to the starter motor casing and momentarily connect the battery positive terminal with starter motor connector 3 (use thick cables). –...
  • Page 140 RR 250 - 400 - 450 - 525 Thanks for you preference, and have a good time! This hand- book contains the information you need to properly operate and maintain your motorcycle. The data and specifications provided in this manual does not constitute an engagement on the part of BETAMOTOR S.p.A.
  • Page 141 IMPORTANT We recommend you to check all the tightenings after the first one or two hours’ ride over rough ground. Special attention should be paid to the following parts: • rear sprocket • ensure that the footrests are properly fixed •...
  • Page 142 Operating instructions ................81 Ecologic guide ..................81 Riding safety ..................82 CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION ........83 Vehicle identification data ..............84 Delivery ..................... 84 Load ....................85 Tyres ....................85 Steering lock ..................86 Familiarizing with your vehicle ..............87 Controls .....................
  • Page 143 CHAPTER 4 ADJUSTMENTS ............. 137 Brake adjustment: front lever and brake pedal ......... 138 Adjusting the decompressor lever control cable ........138 Adjusting the home position of the clutch lever ......... 139 Adjusting the handlebars ..............139 Adjusting the throttle control cable ............140 Checking and adjusting the steering play ..........
  • Page 144 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS • The vehicle must be accompanied by: number-plate, registration document, tax disc and insurance. • Do not carry animals, pets or loose objects that can stick out from the vehicle. • Riding without a crash helmet is forbidden. •...
  • Page 145 RIDING SAFETY • Observe the Highway Code. • Always put on and fasten a homologated helmet. • Always ride with the low beam on. • Always keep the crash helmet visor clean. • Avoid wearing garments with hanging ends. • Do not keep sharp or brittle objects in your pockets while riding. •...
  • Page 146 CONTENTS CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION Vehicle identification data Delivery Load Tyres Steering lock Familiarizing with your vehicle Controls Specifications Wiring diagram Electrical devices...
  • Page 147 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION DATA FRAME IDENTIFICATION Frame identification data A are stamped on the right side of the steering head tube. ENGINE IDENTIFICATION Engine identification data B are stamped in the area shown in the figure. WARNING: Tampering with the identification numbers is severely punished by law.
  • Page 148 LOAD •To avoid to let the vehicle be unstable, do not carry bulky or heavy objects. •Do not carry objects that stick from the vehicle or cover the lighting and signalling devices. TYRES • Only fit tyres approved by BETAMOTOR. Unsuitable tyres can adversely affect the road holding of the vehicle.
  • Page 149 Note The type, condition and pressure of the tyres affect the road holding of the vehicle. For this reason it is essential to check them before each journey. •The size of the tyres is shown in the technical specifications and in the vehicle handbook.
  • Page 150 FAMILIARIZING WITH THE VEHICLE Main parts: 1 - Fuel tank 10 - Lower bumper 19 - Rear mudguard 2 - Tank cap 11 - Saddle 20 - Lateral bumper 3 - Silencer 12 - Engine 4 - Rear shock absorber 13 - Front mudguard 5 - Headlight 14 - Number-plate holder...
  • Page 151 CONTROLS CLUTCH LEVER Clutch lever 1 is fitted to the left-hand side of the handlebars. Screw A can be used to alter the home position of the lever (see Adjustments). DECOMPRESSOR LEVER Decompressor lever 2 makes the engine easier to start in case of flooding. It is also used whenever the exhaust brake needs to be reduced.
  • Page 152 BRAKE PEDAL Brake pedal 5 is located in front of the right-hand footrest. The position of the pedal can be adjusted to suit the requirements of the driver (see Adjustments). DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER CYCLING THROUGH THE FUNCTIONS It is always possible to cycle through the different functions while the vehicle is sta- tionary or in motion.
  • Page 153 CURRENT SPEED FUNCTION This information is constantly displayed together with an indication provided by a graphic bar. The default unit is km/h. To change the unit, press the button to access the Setup menu and select Mph. When Mph is selected, no indication is provided as to which unit is currently displayed.
  • Page 154 3 - MILEOMETER FUNCTION (TOD) T≥ 3” and Vel=0 enables setting of circumference, unit and number of pulses for each wheel turn T<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functions The information is displayed together with the TOD caption. Depending on the selected unit, the information is displayed in kilometres (default) or miles and is permanently stored in non-volatile memory.
  • Page 155 SLEEP MODE One minute after the last pulse from the speed sensor has been received, or after the button was last depressed, the microcontroller switches to a power-saving status named Sleep Mode. In order to save power, all standard instrument activity is sus- pended, the display and the backlighting are turned off (if the vehicle has no battery the backlighting is automatically turned off as soon as the engine is switched off) and only the clock remains in operation.
  • Page 156 LH SWITCH Dip switch 2 has three positions: A = lights off B = low beam on C = high beam on Button 3 operates the horn. Switch 4 is used to stop the engine. Press the button until the engine stops. INDICATOR SWITCH Shifting lever 5 left or right activates the left or right indicators (if installed).
  • Page 157 SPECIFICATIONS Dry weight - RR 250 ........117 kg (front 54 Kg; rear 63 Kg) Dry weight - RR 400 - 450 ..... 117,5 kg (front 54,5 Kg; rear 63 Kg) Dry weight - RR 525 ........118 kg (front 55 Kg; rear 63 Kg) DIMENSIONS - RR 250 maximum length .................
  • Page 158 CAPACITIES fuel tank ..................8,5 liter fuel type ............. petrol unleaded, with a minimum octane number of 95 (R.O.N.) including reserve ................1 liter coolant circuit ................1,3 liter motor oil type ......... synthetic oil (MOTOREX COBRA 15W40) FRONT SUSPENSION “Marzocchi”...
  • Page 159 ENGINE Type ........... Single cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled with countershaft and electric starting Bore x stroke RR 250 ............75 x 56,5 mm Bore x stroke RR 400 ............... 89 x 64 mm Bore x stroke RR 450 ............... 89 x 72 mm Bore x stroke RR 525 ...............
  • Page 160 Lubrication ................2 oil pumps Fuel system ................carburettor Cooling system ..........forced liquid circulation by pump Spark plug ................. NGK DCPR 8 E Clutch .................. wet, multidisc Transmission ............ 6-speed with front claw clutch RR 250 RR 400 RR 450 RR 525 Gear ratio 1st gear 14:38...
  • Page 161 WIRING DIAGRAM...
  • Page 162 WIRING DIAGRAM RIGHT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB) FRONT BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON START BUTTON WHEEL REVOLUTION SENSOR HIGH BEAM WARNING LIGHT TURN INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY LOW BEAM WARNING LIGHT NOT CONNECTED MODE BUTTON ENGINE STOP BUTTON HORN BUTTON LIGHTS SELECTOR SWITCH TURN INDICATOR SWITCH LEFT-HAND CONTROL SET LEFT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)
  • Page 163 ELECTRICAL DEVICES BATTERY Battery 1 is located under the saddle and requires no maintenance. It is not necessary to check the level of the electrolyte or top up with water. Keep the battery terminals clean and, if necessary, protect them with a small quan- tity of acid-free grease.
  • Page 164 FUSE Fuse 3 is located in starting relay 4 under- neath right-hand side panel 5. To gain access to the fuse, remove the saddle and lift tilting support 6, where the battery is contained. The fuse protects the following devices: •electric starter •horn •indicators...
  • Page 166 CONTENTS CHAPTER 2 OPERATION Checks to be performed before each ride Recommended lubricants Running-in Starting the engine Refuelling...
  • Page 167 CHECKS TO BE PERFORMED BEFORE EACH RIDE The vehicle can be used only if it is in perfect condition from a technical point of view. To ensure maximum safety, it is advisable to carry out a general inspection of the motorcycle before each ride. The checks to be performed are described below. 1 CHECK THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL Insufficient oil levels lead to early wear and, in the long run, to engine damage.
  • Page 168 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS To maximize the vehicle’s performance and ensure many years of trouble-free opera- tion, we recommend using the following products: PRODUCT TYPE SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE OIL BARDAHL XTM15W 50 BRAKE OIL BARDAHL BRAKE FLUID DOT4 FORK OIL EB-H16 SAE 7,5 TIE ROD GREASE BARDAHL MPG2 CLUTCH OIL...
  • Page 169 STARTING THE ENGINE COLD STARTING 1 Open fuel cock 1. 2 Take the vehicle off the stand. 3 Shift into neutral. 4 Operate choke 2. 5 WITHOUT opening the throttle, firmly and FULLY operate kickstart 3 or use the electric starter. HOT STARTING 1 Open fuel cock 1.
  • Page 170 CHOKE When choke 2 is pulled out completely, a hole is opened in the carburettor through which the engine can suck in extra fuel. This makes it possible to obtain a rich fuel- air mixture suitable for cold starting. To deactivate the choke, push it in to its start- ing position.
  • Page 171 REFUELLING FUEL TANK CAP Open: Turn tank cap 1 anticlockwise. Close: Replace the tank cap and turn it clockwise. Arrange tank breather pipe 2 so that it forms no kinks. FUEL COCK OFF Fuel cock 3 is closed. ON Before using the vehicle, turn the knob to ON.
  • Page 172 CONTENTS CHAPTER 3 CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE Motor oil level check Motor oil and oil filter substitution Check the level of the front and rear brake fluid and bleeding Check the front and rear brake pads Check the oil level in the hydraulic clutch and bleeding Fork oil Air filter Spark plug...
  • Page 173 OIL CIRCUIT Oil pump 3 sucks engine oil from the oil sump through long oil unit 4. Oil pipe 5 conveys the oil to the cylinder head up to camshaft lubrication point 6. The oil quan- tity is adjusted by means of oil passage screw 7.
  • Page 174 CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL AND THE OIL FILTER Before performing this operation, if lower bumper A is present, remove it after un- screwing the three screws B as shown in the figure. Whenever the oil is changed, the long and short oil units need to be cleaned and both oil filters replaced.
  • Page 175 CLEANING THE SHORT OIL UNIT Short oil unit 1 is inserted in Allen screw 2 on the lower side of the engine. Insert an Allen wrench into the screw socket and loosen the oil drain screw. Remove the oil unit, thoroughly clean its components and blow them with low-pres- sure compressed air.
  • Page 176 REPLACING THE OIL FILTER Remove screw 1 and allow the oil to drain into a container placed under the engine. Remove the four screws 2 and take off the two oil filter covers. Using special seeger ring pliers, pull the two filter elements 3 out of the crankcase.
  • Page 177 CHECK THE LEVEL OF THE FRONT BRAKE FLUID Check the level of the brake fluid through sight A. The level of the fluid should never fall below the mark in the sight. RESTORING THE LEVEL OF THE FRONT BRAKE FLUID To restore the level of the brake fluid, loosen the two screws 1, lift cap 2 and add brake fluid (IP DOT 4) until its level is 5 mm be-...
  • Page 178 CHECK THE LEVEL OF THE REAR BRAKE FLUID Check the level of the brake fluid through sight D. The level of the fluid should never fall below the mark in the sight. RESTORING THE LEVEL OF THE REAR BRAKE FLUID To restore the level of the brake fluid, un- screw cap 3 and pour in brake fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level reaches the mark in...
  • Page 179 FRONT BRAKE LINING CONTROL In order to verify the wear condition of front brake is enough to view the plincer from the bottom, where is possible to glimpse the brake lining tails which will have to show a brake of 2 mm in thickness. If the stratum is lesser let’s start replacing them.
  • Page 180 CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL IN THE HY- DRAULIC CLUTCH To check the oil level in the clutch pump, first remove cover 2. Remove the two screws 1 and take off cover 2 together with the rubber bellows. With the clutch pump in a horizontal posi- tion, the level of the oil should be 4 mm below the upper rim.
  • Page 181 FORK OIL Right/left-hand rod The procedure for changing the oil in the forks is provided only for information. We recommend having the operation per- formed by a BETAMOTOR authorized workshop. •Remove the handlebars after unscrewing the four screws B fixing clevis C. •Unloosen the stem clamping screws D and E.
  • Page 182 AIR FILTER A dirty air filter hinders the passage of air, reduces engine power and increases fuel consumption. For these reasons it is essen- tial to clean the air filter on a regular ba- sis. Follow these steps to gain access to the air filter.
  • Page 183 SPARK PLUG Keeping the spark plug in good condition makes for reduced consumption and opti- mum engine performance. It is advisable to remove the spark plug when the engine is hot (and naturally off) because the carbon formation and the colour of the insulator provide important information on carburetion, lubrication, and the general condition of the engine.
  • Page 184 CARBURETTOR - ADJUSTING THE IDLE SPEED Engine starting is strongly affected by the idle speed adjustment. In other words, an engine whose slow running is properly adjusted is easier to start than an engine with an unsuitably tuned up engine. The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting wheel 1 and mixture adjusting screw 2.
  • Page 185 NOTE Failure to successfully complete the above procedure can be the result of an improp- erly sized idling jet. a) If the mixture adjusting screw is turned until it stops and no changes in the idle speed are observed, a smaller idling jet is required. b) If the engine stalls when the adjusting screw is still two turns open, a larger idling jet is needed.
  • Page 186 CHECKING THE FLOAT LEVEL (float height) Remove the carburettor and the float cham- ber. Tilt the carburettor so that the float touches the float needle valve without press- ing it too hard. In this position the float edge should be parallel with the float chamber sealing sur- face (see figure).
  • Page 187 DRAINING THE CARBURETTOR FLOAT CHAMBER The carburettor float chamber can be drained by following the procedure de- scribed below while the engine is cold. Close the fuel cock and place tube 4 in a container to gather the fuel that flows out. Open drain screw 5 and drain the fuel.
  • Page 188 REMOVING THE PLASTICS To facilitate checks and operations in cer- tain areas of the vehicle, it is essential to remove the bodywork sections as de- scribed below. Removing the saddle Remove the two fixing screws A (one on each side), lift the saddle as shown in the figure and pull it off from the back of the vehicle.
  • Page 189 Removing the front side panels Unscrew the eight fixing screws E (four on each side) and remove the panels. Removing the rear side panels Unscrew the four fixing screws F (two on each side) and remove the panels. The upper screw fixes the saddle as well as the rear panel.
  • Page 190 Removing the front mudguard Remove the four screws L from underneath the front mudguard. Remove screw M (also located under the mudguard) fixing the mudguard backing plate. Remove the two mudguard backing fixing screws N from the top of the backing plate. Removing the fork covers Unscrew the eight fixing screws P (five on the left side and three on the right side)
  • Page 191 Removing the headlight fairing Release the two rubber bands Q as shown in the figure, pull out the headlight insert and take off fairing R.
  • Page 192 DRIVE CHAIN MAINTENANCE The life of the drive chain largely depends on its maintenance. Chains without X- rings must be periodically cleaned in petroleum and then immersed in hot chain oil or treated with a chain spray. X-ring chains require very little maintenance. The best way to clean them is rinsing them generously with water.
  • Page 193 SUSPENSIONS TELESCOPIC FORK ADJUSTING THE REBOUND DAMPER The hydraulic rebound damper determines the behaviour of the telescopic fork during extension and can be adjusted by means of screw A. Turning the screw clockwise (towards the + sign) increases the action of the rebound damper;...
  • Page 194 Low-speed adjustment •Using a screwdriver, loosen screw C by turning it clockwise to decrease the hy- draulic compression damper. Standard adjustment: Screw completely open, 21/21 clicks High-speed adjustment •Turn knob D anticlockwise to decrease the hydraulic compression damper. Standard adjustment Knob completely open, 24/24 clicks WARNING Starting from the standard position, turn the...
  • Page 195 CHARGING THE BATTERY Remove the battery and check its charge. Using an open-circuit multimeter (10-12 hours after the activation), check that the voltage is greater than 12.6 V. If it is lower, it is advisable to recharge the battery. Based on the type of charger available, charge the battery using either of the fol- lowing procedures: •...
  • Page 196 CLEANING AND CHECKING THE VEHICLE Use water jet to soften the dirt and mud accumulated on the paintwork, then remove them with a soft bodywork sponge soaked in water and shampoo (2-4 percent shampoo in water). Subsequently rinse well with water, and dry with air and cloth or suede leather.

  • Page 197: Scheduled Maintenance

    SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE Interval hour (h) after/every 15 Item fuel (litre) Air filter (after off-road use) Valves Spark plug (replace every 30 hours) Idle speed Throttle cable play Clutch Engine oil Engine oil filter Motor oil net filter Exhaust pipe bolts Brakes Brake lines (replace every 4 years) Brake fluid (replace every 2 years)
  • Page 198 PROLONGED INACTIVITY A few simple operations should be performed to keep the vehicle in good condition whenever it is to remain inactive for a long period (e.g. during the winter): • Thoroughly clean the vehicle. • Reduce the tyre pressures by approximately 30 percent, and if possible raise the tyres off the ground.
  • Page 200 CONTENTS CHAPTER 4 ADJUSTMENTS Brake adjustment: front lever and brake pedal Adjusting the decompressor lever control cable Adjusting the home position of the clutch lever Adjusting the handlebars Adjusting the throttle control cable Checking and adjusting the steering play Tensioning the chain Adjusting the headlight...
  • Page 201 ADJUSTING THE HOME POSITION OF THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER The home position of brake lever 2 can be adjusted by means of screw 1. ADJUSTING THE HOME POSITION OF THE BRAKE PEDAL The home position of brake pedal 3 can be adjusted by means of set screw 4.
  • Page 202 ADJUSTING THE HOME POSITION OF THE CLUTCH LEVER The idle travel of clutch lever 7 can be adjusted by means of screw 6. ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBARS The handlebars can be fastened in one of four positions. Lower clevis 1 can be positioned on holes 2 and 3 respectively and can be rotated 180 degrees to allow four different adjust- ments capable of suiting different driver’s...
  • Page 203 ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE The throttle control cable should always have a 3-5 mm play. In addition, the idle speed should not change when the han- dlebars are fully rotated to the left or right. Push back protective cap 10. Loosen counternut 11 and turn adjusting screw 12.
  • Page 204 TENSIONING THE CHAIN To ensure the drive chain a longer life, it is advisable to periodically check its tension. Always maintain the chain clean and lu- bricated. If the chain play exceeds 20 mm, tension the chain by following these steps: 20 mm •Loosen wheel spindle nut 1.
  • Page 205 ADJUSTING THE HEADLIGHT • The light beam is adjusted manually by turning the headlight fixing screws on the headlight fairing. • Periodically check the direction of the beam. The beam can only be adjusted vertically. • Place the vehicle on level ground (but not on the stand) 10 metres from a vertical wall.
  • Page 206 CONTENTS CHAPTER 5 REPLACEMENTS Replacing the brake pads: front and rear Replacing the headlight bulbs Replacing the rear light bulb Replacing the exhaust-pipe...
  • Page 207 REPLACING THE BRAKE PADS The procedure for replacing the brake pads is provided only for information. We rec- ommend having the operation performed by a BETAMOTOR authorized workshop. FRONT Follow these steps to replace the pads: •Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons reach their home posi- tions.
  • Page 208 REAR Follow these steps to replace the pads: •Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistons reach their home posi- tions. •Unscrew dowel A. •Pull out pin B while supporting the two pads as shown in the figure. •Remove the brake pads taking care not to drop the leaf spring located above the two pads.
  • Page 209 REPLACING THE HEADLIGHT BULBS Release both elastic bands and move the headlight fairing forwards. Carefully pull out the parking light bulb together with bulb holder 1 from the head- light reflector. Detach connector 2 from the headlight bulb and remove rubber cap 3. Turn fixing flange 4 anticlockwise and re- move the bulb from the headlight reflector.
  • Page 210 REPLACING THE EXHAUST-PIPE The description of the exhaust-pipe substi- tution is purely informative; actually is ad- visable to turn to a BETAMOTOR shop in order to make this. As for substitution you must proceed in the following way: •Put the motor-cycle on the stand under the motor •Remove the saddle (vedi pag.
  • Page 211 •Unthread the loom 5 toward the back •Remove the upper fixing bolt of the damper 7 in order to make it possible for the exhaust-pipe to pass •Remove the two springs attacked to the cylinder 8. •Unscrew the bolt 9 over the lever set in motion and remove the tube running it from the back.
  • Page 212 CONTENTS CHARTER 6 TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX...
  • Page 213 PROBLEM CAUSE REMEDY - Fuel system clogged (fuel lines, Clean the system. Engine does not start fuel tank, fuel cock). - Air filter dirty. Proceed as described on page 119. - No current supplied to spark Clean or replace the spark plug. plug.
  • Page 214 Adjusting decompressor ..............138 Air filter .................... 119 Bleeding clutch .................. 117 Bleeding the brakes: front and rear ............114 Brakes, adjustment: front and rear ............138 Carburetor ..................121 Checks to be performed before each ride ..........104 Clutch, adjustment ................139 Clutch oil: check the level ..............
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This manual is also suitable for:

Rr 4t-400Rr 4t-450Rr 4t-525