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Old School Model Works Raider Construction Manual

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Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fi t the parts together to make sure they
fi t properly. If necessary, trim to fi t.
Beside each step, you will notice a checkbox (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed at two different times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-fl yable model. In a few
cases, the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances, the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true, and strong.
• You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-
class condition, a correctly sized power system, and
components
(electronics,
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
Specifi cations:
Wingspan: 70 in.
Wing Area: 720 sq in.
Airframe Length: 46.2 in.
Weight: 5.5 - 7 lb.
batteries,
wheels,
etc.)
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you're not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
fl ying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com

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Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works Raider

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be • If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this...
  • Page 2: Included Items

    WARNING • Inspect your model before every fl ight to ensure it is airworthy. • Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an interference problem. READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL • Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your selected fl ight area.
  • Page 3: Items Needed

    Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives • Drill & assorted drill bits #1 - We've done everything we can to make the Raider a • Hobby knife and new blades fun and easy-to-assemble kit. That being said, THIS IS NOT •...
  • Page 4 Let’s begin construction by building the here. Make sure the front tab of both VF8s vertical fin & rudder of your Raider. are fully inserted into VF7 and the VF8s are perfectly aligned.
  • Page 5 Step 23 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (E7A, E7B) Now it's time to build the horizontal stab and elevator of Locate four E7As and four E7Bs from your Raider. BP9 and BP11. Note the notches pre- cut in these pieces, allowing one E7A...
  • Page 6 But first, you need to make a decision. If scalloped edges, locate one E17 from BP26. The Raider can be made with the traditional Ugly Stik scalloped Glue whichever you chose so it is up trailing edges on the elevator and ailerons. Or, it can be made against the back edge of E14, and with more modern straight trailing edges.
  • Page 7 OK, it's decision time again. Make sure it's perpendicular to TR2 as well. The Raider can be made with a traditional tri-cycle gear or a more modern tail-dragger gear. Step 43 - Fuselage Assembly (F4) Either way works just fine - they both handle grass or paved Locate F4 from LP5.
  • Page 8 flat against the board until fuselage sheet and lay it down on your building surface. all the glue has cured. Time to attach it to the fuselage assembly using the exact same When finished, you have steps as you just used. something that looks a Carefully align the parts, whole lot like this.
  • Page 9 a good, slop-free fit. Then, when satisfied, apply glue where the Step 53 - Fuselage Assembly (1/4" stringers) pieces touch and glue it in place. Locate two of the 1/4" sq. balsa strips. These are cut to length, Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly (FS6) running from the LG1 you just Here's another spot where you need installed on the bottom of the...
  • Page 10 place, with the t-nut facing down. Step 62 - Fuselage Assembly (1/4" stringers) When you're satisfied, glue these Let's finish up the 1/4" stringer in position, making sure they stick madness by flipping the fuselage straight out from the fuselage right-side-up.
  • Page 11 Step 73 - Fuselage Assembly (H1, H2) Step 78 - Wing Assembly (J2 end jigs) Locate H1 and H2 from BP27. These Locate two J1s from LP1 and LP5, two J2s from LP3, and four J3s are glued together to form the outer located in LP1 and LP2.
  • Page 12 perfectly aligned, and that no glue goes into the pre-cut holes and prior to this step you find yourself on notches of the finished R2 assembly. right now. Snap the dowel into the jigs, then space the ribs out to match the Ribs, now with 100% more Tabs! spacing on the plans.
  • Page 13 Raider is at the field in the boiling sun. Step 92 - Wing Assembly (SW4) Locate SW4 from LP3. Note the Yup, another bright idea from the warped minds of those etched circle in the corner.
  • Page 14 straight when you do this. The trailing edge will rest on each of the Note you will have to carefully measure and cut a section to go rib's rear tabs (that you've been so careful not to break off, right?). around R2's protrusion, as shown here.
  • Page 15 square hole. Then continue to work your way inward through all of n n Step 114 - Wing Assembly (tip assembly) the other ribs - again, care is needed here, not speed. Carefully remove/sand/ When the sub-spar is in place, make sure that all of the ribs are file any of the spar aligned with the plans, and they are all vertical.
  • Page 16 OK, it's decision time again. half and also coat the The Raider can be made with ailerons only, faces of each root rib. or with flaps and ailerons. Slide all the dihedral Now is the time to make that decision. If you are NOT going...
  • Page 17 n n n n Step 125 - Wing Assembly (A4 or A5) Step 131 - Flap Assembly (FL4 or FL5) Locate one A4 (scalloped) or A5 Locate one FL4 (scalloped) or FL5 (straight) from BP17. Glue it over the (straight) from BP17. Glue it over the trailing edge of A2 so it matches over trailing edge of FL2 so it matches over it's entire length.
  • Page 18 You should have done this, already, but I'll mention you need to This completes assembly of the Raider airframe. round the leading edge of the stab as well as the trailing edges of These next few steps can be done in most any order - up until the elevator and rudder.
  • Page 19 Shown here is an example of Tank / Battery compartment fuel proofing the radio gear’s installation in If you're using a glow engine to power your Raider, it is strongly one of the Raider prototypes. recommended that you fuel-proof the inside of the tank/battery Simple and neat.
  • Page 20 Covering the pair of TR5s from LP5. You can see these in use in the photos Now it is time to cover the Raider. Remove the power-plant, main on the previous page. gear, nosewheel assembly, pushrods, and any other components that would get in the way of applying the covering.
  • Page 21 This is not unique to the Raider - it's Preflight: the way flaps effect most designs - but if your radio allows, you can Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
  • Page 22 APPENDIX A Page 22 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...
  • Page 23 APPENDIX A Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 23...
  • Page 24 APPENDIX A Page 24 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...
  • Page 25 . This manual is © Copyright 2024, Old School Model Works. All Rights Reserved. For more information on all of our other products, as well as the latest news from Old School Model Works: Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com You can reach us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/oldschoolmodelworks...
  • Page 26 Wingspan: 60” • Airframe Length: 46.2” • Recommended Weight: 5.5-7 lbs (RTF) 4-5 channel radio • Power: .45-.61 glow (or equivalent electric) Originally designed by Phil Kraft, updated and drawn by M. Lanterman ©2024, Old School Model Works • www.oldschoolmodels.com APPENDIX B Page 26 www.oldschoolmodels.com...