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Specifications: Wingspan: 39.5 in. • Wing Area: 470 sq in.
Airframe Length: 32 in. • Weight: 3-3.5 lb.
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they fit
properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress while
building your kit. For steps that have two boxes, as in the
construction of the left and right wing halves, these steps
must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of
its performance capabilities, this model, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify this model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-class condition,
a correctly sized power system and components (electronics,
batteries, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
(Installation shown in the manual is a suggestion. You may have
to adjust the mounting steps to accommodate the size of your
radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every flight
to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other
connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of
wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of
model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of
an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If
you're not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has
information about clubs in your area whose membership
includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if
this model will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as
racing, or if a power system larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built
model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com

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Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works Comet

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has...
  • Page 2: Items Needed

    E-Flite 25. • 1 - LP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 5 x 24 sheet Remember that the Comet is sport that is intended to fly at average • 1 - LP4 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 3 x 19 sheet speeds, not rocket speeds, so prudent throttle management •...
  • Page 3: Before Starting Assembly

    Before Starting Assembly the Comet is built as a one-piece airframe. The Comet should only be built by an experienced builder. If Cut out the nose section of the plans along the dotted line, then you’ve never built a kit before it’s quite possible you will have a tape this section in place on the plans to form a 1-piece plan with great deal of difficulty building this kit successfully.
  • Page 4 from BP2. These Step 6 - Center Section (F6) are jigs used to Locate F6 from LP3 Glue it in position properly space the making sure it is 90° from R1. ribs. These pieces are symmetrical so no worries about placing them in the wrong direction.
  • Page 5 WF5, these are glued in place create the trailing edges for on the back edge of the upper each side of the Comet. Glue and lower front spars. WF5 is to all the ribs with the 1/2” glued to the front of the spars.
  • Page 6 Glue one sheet on the left and the right wings. Once all the glue has cured, remove the Comet assembly from the building surface and flip it over. Step 27 - Center Section (install F4) Now it’s time to remove all the tabs from the ribs.
  • Page 7 When measuring, cut these mounts to leave an extra 1/16” or so the Comet (not included). past the outside edges of the ribs. We recommend that the Make they are fully seated in the cutouts, then glue in place.
  • Page 8 This step will require a lot of pieces, glued in place to the cowling frame Now the cowl can be removed from the Comet as it will make in pairs. These are the C1-C13 it easier to form the front of the cowl. As you may recall, we pieces located on BP5 and BP4.
  • Page 9 Using the leftover Step 52 - Center Section Assembly (F2) 1/16th sheeting, sheet the Flip the Comet so the bottom is remaining portion of the facing up, with the firewall facing bottom center section, you. similar to the way you Locate both F2s from LP2.
  • Page 10 The piece shown separated from the fin is the rudder (VF5). We complete the engine installation. have flown the Comet with and without rudder and you can choose • For electric, run the motor’s wires through a couple of the air Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com...
  • Page 11 If you do not want to use the rudder, then glue VF5 When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you to the vertical fin. After flying the Comet, you can always change removed earlier in this step.
  • Page 12 Step 78 - Canopy. Finishing the assembly of the Comet is the adjusted. canopy. Trim the edges as needed so it is flush with sides of the Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make fuselage.
  • Page 13 APPENDIX A Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13...
  • Page 14 Page 14 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...