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Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components
(electronics,
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
Specifications: Wingspan: 44 in. • Wing Area: 365 sq in.
Airframe Length: 39 in. • Weight: 2.5-3.5 lb.
batteries,
wheels,
etc.)
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you're not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com

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Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works Mambo

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working • If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
  • Page 2: Included Items

    WARNING • Inspect your model before every flight to ensure it is airworthy. • Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an interference problem. READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL • Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your selected flight area.
  • Page 3: Before Starting Assembly

    Before Starting Assembly 24” long. Position the left From the start, we’ve designed the Mambo to be easy to build wing plan over the surface for the first time builder. We’ve kept the parts count low and and tape into position.
  • Page 4 Step 4 - Wing Assembly (R3, R4 and R5 ribs) Step 8 - Wing Assembly (WH4 and WH5) This step will require one R3 Locate one WH4 and one WH5 rib (from BP7), two R4 ribs from LP1. First, position WH4 into (from BP10) and five R5 ribs R3 with it’s engraved circle facing (also from BP10).
  • Page 5 Start with the R6 installed between R2 Step 17 - Wing Assembly (D2 and WH7) and R3. Hold it in place over the plans Locate D2 from LP1. It is to get an idea of which side of the glued in as shown here - piece need the bevel sanded.
  • Page 6 divided by the upper spar. Let’s etched DG center line to help align it exactly to the center of the tackle the front section first - this wing. With it properly in place, DG’s angle will match the dihedral is the area from the leading edge of the wing.
  • Page 7 These are now glued in place as shown, making sure they are firmly oversized to give a bit of “wiggle-room”. seated in the pre-cut notches in S1 and S3. This completes assembly of the Mambo wing. Step 34 - Elevator Assembly (E1) Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
  • Page 8 FS1.) When satisfied with the orientation and fit of the tabs, remove This completes assembly of the Mambo’s tail surfaces. FS1, apply glue and fasten FS1 to F3 and TR1 from F3, rearward. Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.
  • Page 9 Step 40 - Fuselage Assembly (WH1, WH2) However, if you’re using Locate WH1 from LP2 and WH2 from glow to power your Mambo, LP3. Glue WH1 in place first, making place these two pieces on a piece of waxed paper as shown. Mix sure it’s tabs are firmly seated in the pre-...
  • Page 10 sanding is needed to bevel the sides of F2 to obtain a secure fit. Step 50 - Fuselage Assembly (FS3, FS4) F2 needs to be flush against the front of TR1, and the tabs from Locate both FS3’s both fuselage sides need to be inserted into the pre-cut slots in F2. from BP7 and both When satisfied on how these pieces go together, it’s time glue FS4’s from BP6.
  • Page 11 fuselage cap. This piece will fit between the Step 53 - Fuselage Assembly (rear pins) fuselage sides as shown here. Use a couple of t-pins (or tape) to bring the two Measure and cut the piece, then slightly fuselage sheets together at the rear, as shown. taper the sides so it will contact the sheeting Don’t glue these together! This simply holds along it’s length.
  • Page 12 Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly (stab alignment) same technique, work your way backward 4” at a time, until you Although we’ve done everything possible to engineer the Mambo reach the rear of the fuselage. Be careful not to waste as little of so it will build straight and true, take a few minutes to guarantee the sheeting as possible.
  • Page 13 Step 76 - Tailwheel choice it up-side-down on your workbench. Glue both H2’s in the front There are two ways to go with the tailwheel for your Mambo. slots and both H3’s in the rear slots as shown. You can visit your local dealer to pickup one of many different Also press in the magnets into the H2’s, making sure the magnets...
  • Page 14 Step 80 - Covering (remainder of airframe) 3/16” wide around the it’s perimeter. Now it’s time to cover the rest of the Mambo. Double check that • Test the canopy in place and all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand as necessary,...
  • Page 15 Shown here a few photos of the pushrods and radio gear installation spot, mark where they should go, then remove the SM3, apply in one of our Mambo prototypes. These are shown only for a guide, glue and fasten it in place. Do this for both the elevator and rudder as each installation is unique, and the radio system you have might servos.
  • Page 16 To assemble the spacer box, locate your motor’s mounting bracket As noted before, the Mambo is not a trainer airplane, it is on the center of M2, then mark and drill it’s mounting holes into meant as a first build for those who have become competent M2.
  • Page 17 Failure of any of these components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft. For more information on all of our other products, as well as the latest news from Old School Model Works: Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com You can reach us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/oldschoolmodelworks...
  • Page 18 APPENDIX A Page 18 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...
  • Page 19 APPENDIX A Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 19...
  • Page 20 Page 20 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...