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Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components
(electronics,
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
batteries,
wheels,
etc.)
Specifications:
Wingspan: 59 in.
Wing Area: 644 sq in.
Airframe Length: 55.3 in.
Weight: 6.5 - 8 lb.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you're not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com

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Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works Kaos

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working • If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
  • Page 2: Included Items

    WARNING • Inspect your model before every flight to ensure it is airworthy. • Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an interference problem. READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL • Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your selected flight area.
  • Page 3 Thin CA for attaching the included hinges cornerstones of our hobby in some way. For me, Although an easy to build kit, our Kaos 60 kit is not for the novice the original Bridi Kaos 60 is a part of that list.
  • Page 4 Note - there are 12 magnets included in surface that is a minimum your Kaos. Since you'll use the three larger jigs first, push the of 36” long. Position the magnets into those first - BUT DON'T GLUE THEM IN PLACE.
  • Page 5 Step 9 - Wing Assembly (SW2) Locate two SW2s from LP1 and LP2. These are installed the same way as the previous SW pieces, just doing it twice. You are paying attention to where those etched SW circles are, right? Also - take care not to get any extra glue in the space between the SW2 pieces (and the SW1s in the following steps).
  • Page 6 R1 needs to be flat along it's entire length - from leading to trailing of SW1 and SW2. edge. Any warps or twists you build in now will make it harder to Make sure it is completely seated in the slot of each rib. Use care properly join the wing halves later on.
  • Page 7 J6 jig you made. This should be used to Step 21 - Wing Assembly (WS1 & WS2) support the rear dowel, about half-way along Locate one WS1 and the wing's length. one WS2 from BP11. Also remove any/all of the J8 clips you might These are used for the have used to hold ribs in place.
  • Page 8 piece that serves as the main Step 33 - Wing Assembly (dowels) gear support. Now it's time to mark and drill It is strongly recommended that the leading edge to accept epoxy be used for this step to the wing hold dowel. give added strength.
  • Page 9 noted on the plans. Step 36 - Wing Assembly (bottom spar) Start with WS3, measuring and notching around WH7 for a perfect Locate one length of 1/4" x fit. When satisfied with the fit, temporarily tape it to the trailing 36"...
  • Page 10 of the T3s in the next step. Glue one T2 to each side of T1. Step 50 - Wing Assembly (R1 cutout) Now it's time to open R1 to accept the dihedral Step 45 - Wing Assembly (T3) brace. Mark and cut open the rectangular area Locate two of the T3s from BP7.
  • Page 11 Step 59 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (outer sheeting) Locate four ES1 and four ES2 This completes assembly of the Kaos 60 wings. from BP8. An ES1 and ES2 are Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
  • Page 12 Step 63 - Elevator Assembly (outer edge) Step 69 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF1, VF2 & VF3) Using scrap 1/4 x 1/2" balsa, cut and Locate VF1, VF2 and VF3 glue the outer tips for each elevator from BP1 and BP2. Pin VF1 in half as shown here.
  • Page 13 F3 and F5. These should stick out roughly 1/8" from above the outer surface of FS1. This completes assembly of the Kaos tail surfaces. When you know how it all works, remove the side and glue it in Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.
  • Page 14 sheeting together for the wing and tail surfaces. The only difference Step 86 - Fuselage Assembly (FS2) being that these sheets are thicker 1/8"balsa sheets. Locate FS2 from LP5. This Start by gluing FS3A and FS3B together. Then glue FS3C, noting is now glued in place as the it's orientation.
  • Page 15 but the middle of F2 should line up with the middle of the F2 on Step 98 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom fuse sheeting) the plans. Basically what we're looking for here is the fuselage to Leave the fuselage on be lined up on the centerline of the plans, as well as front to back the building board and by matching up the former locations.
  • Page 16 Step 102 - Fuselage Assembly (top 1/8" basswood) Step 106 - Fuselage Assembly (stab supports) Locate the last two lengths of Using scrap 1/4" square balsa, cut 4 1/8" square x 36" basswood supports for the stab. These will be glued Here stick.
  • Page 17 bolts will thread into this block. A few drops of thin CA will help vertical fin, blend it into the VF16 pieces installed a few steps back. strengthen and secure the threads you’ve cut. We've found this Sand bevels into the leading edge of both elevator halves, the to be a very secure way of holding the wing in place for all of our rudder, and the ailerons.
  • Page 18 These next few steps can be done in most any order - up until it's time to cover. Tank / Battery compartment fuel proofing If you're using a glow engine to power your Kaos, it is strongly Nose gear assembly. recommended that you fuel proof the inside of the battery Everything you need to assemble the nose gear is in one package.
  • Page 19 Although you can install the servos and control hardware after covering Now, figuring out how to your Kaos, we find it easier to temporarily mount everything in place keep things cool takes a bit before covering. This way you have unblocked access inside the fuselage more planning.
  • Page 20 Included is a canopy and though it's certainly up to you if you tray by using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not included). choose to use it, the canopy is just a defining part of the Kaos' The radio's switch should be mounted to the opposite side outline, so why not use it? of the muffler (to help keep the goop out of it).
  • Page 21 Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items This completes the assembly of the Kaos. Now you’ll need to that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these adjust the control throws and check for balance.
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