Now we'll step things up a bit and start work on the Raven's
starboard wing panel.
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Prepare your work area
You'll need a flat building surface that is a minimum of 36" long.
Position the starboard wing plan over the surface and tape into
position. Tear off a length of waxed paper long enough to cover
the plan and tape that into position, over the plan.
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Step 12 - Wing (lower spar)
Locate one length of 3/16" x 3/8"
basswood to use as the lower spar.
Measure and cut it to length - making
sure it extends beyond both R1 and
R9 by roughly 1/8" to 3/16".
Using a few drops of medium CA
glue, tack this spar in place as shown,
making sure it is straight along it's entire length.
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Step 13 - Wing (R9 rib)
Starting with R9 from BP3, it's
time to start gluing the ribs
in place. To make sure R9 is
perfectly aligned when gluing
it to the bottom spar here's a
couple of tips.
I like to put a small drop of medium CA on the bottom of the
backside tab of each rib to help lock it in place to the waxed paper
(or you can use pins if that's your thing - but be careful as pins can
split the thin balsa). Also make sure to use the included 90° triangle
that I mentioned just a few steps back. Using the triangle ensures
that this rib, and all subsequent ribs are perfectly aligned at 90° to
the building surface.
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Step 14 - Wing (R3-R8 ribs)
Locate ribs R3-R8 from BP3,
BP4 and BP5. Using the same
techniques that you used on
R9, glue each of these ribs in
order as shown. Make sure
each one is in the proper
place and all are perfectly
aligned at 90° to the building
surface.
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Step 15 - Wing (SW3)
Now locate two SW3s from LP1.
These are glued between R3 and
R2 (not yet installed). Note there is
a small circle etched on SW3 which
designates the top edges. These are
glued in place as shown, butted-up
against R3 and make sure that the
tabs on both SW3's point towards R2. The SW3s should also be
glued to the lower spar as shown here.
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Step 16 - Wing (R2, R2A)
Locate one R2 from BP5 and two R2As from LP1. The R2A's are
glued to each side of R2, to strengthen the area where the rear
dihedral brace will be inserted later on. Working one side at a
Construction Manual
time, line up the square cutout in R2A to
the same cutout in R2. Pay attention to
R2A's orientation when gluing it in place
so it matches the wing's curvature.
Once glued in place, flip R2 over and glue
the other R2A in position.
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Step 17 - Wing (R2)
Now glue R2 in place as shown,
making sure the tabs from both
SW3s are fully inserted. Also make
sure that R2 is perfectly aligned at
90° to the building surface.
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Step 18 - Wing (TE)
Locate one TE from BP5. This is the
trailing edge of the wing and note
the angle of it's pre-cut slots. When
properly installed, these slots will
line up with each of the ribs installed
so far.
BE CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR
TIME WHEN INSTALLING THIS
PIECE. Now is not the time to rush,
as this piece, as well as the backs of
each rib, are delicate.
A little at a time, work TE into the
back of each rib. Once installed properly, TE will be flush with the
back of each rib as shown here. Glue this in place to each rib.
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Step 19 - Wing (SW1, SW2)
Locate one LP1, one SW1 and one
SW2 from LP1. As before, there are
circles etched into SW1 & SW2 to
designate their top edges. Dry fit this
next step first so you'll understand
where I'm going here.
Slide the single tab on SW1 (fore)
and SW2 (aft) into the holes on R2. Now, to get both to the proper
height, use R1 (from LP1) as a guide by pushing it into place, with the
twin tabs on the SWs sliding into the holes in R1. You'll see that R1
will hold the SWs at the proper height, and you can use this to your
advantage when you glue the SWs in place. Now remove the SWs
apply glue and attach them in place, making sure they are also glued
to the lower spar but do NOT GLUE R1 IN PLACE AT THIS TIME.
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Step 20 - Wing (SW1B)
Locate one SW1B from LP1. Note
the circle - which designates what?
That's right - the top edge.
It is glued in place as shown,
making sure it's tabs are fully
seated into the R2 and R1 tabs.
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Step 21 - Wing (R1)
It's time to glue R1 in place. Cut into LP5
is a dihedral gauge that has its own "foot"
inside it. Pop these out and use them to
help align R1, as shown here. When R1 is
properly installed (with the tabs in SW1
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SW1
SW2
Page 5
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