Download
Share
Print this page
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Zeppelin Design Labs Manuals
  4. Music Pedal
  5. ALTURA MKII Plus
  6. Assembly instructions manual

Zeppelin Design Labs ALTURA MKII Plus Assembly Instructions Manual

Hide thumbs

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual

Advertisement

loading

Related Manuals for Zeppelin Design Labs ALTURA MKII Plus

Summary of Contents for Zeppelin Design Labs ALTURA MKII Plus

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER ..................25 © 2022 ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS. NO PART OF THIS DOCUMENT MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR HARM THAT MAY COME TO ANYONE OR ANYTHING THROUGH THEIR PRODUCTS. THE ALTURA SOFTWARE IS COVERED BY THE CREATIVE COMMONS SHARE-ALIKE/ATTRIBUTION/NON-COMMERCIAL LICENSE, WHICH MEANS YOU ARE FREE TO ADD OR BUILD UPON THE CIRCUIT IDEA AND THE SOFTWARE IN ANY WAY YOUR CREATIVITY ALLOWS, BUT ANY DERIVATIVES MUST BE SHARED USING THE SAME LICENSE.

  • Page 3: Introduction

    INTRODUCTION The Altura MkII+Theremin MIDI Controller by Zeppelin Design Labs was inspired by the early electronic instrument invented by Russian physicist Léon Theremin. Léon’s device uses a pair of antennas that can sense the capacitance of a person’s hands. The right antenna affects a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO) circuit.
  • Page 4 Bob Moog, got his start back in the 1960’s designing and selling theremin kits, before he revolutionized popular and electronic music with his modular synthesizers. At Zeppelin Design Labs, with our love of electronic instruments and DIY kits, we hope the Altura MkII+ will continue Léon Theremin’s legacy of inspiring both artists and electronics nerds.
  • Page 5 Altura always plays in tune! . The Altura MkII+ was designed as a companion to the Macchiato Mini Synth by Zeppelin Design Labs. There are a few special features that will only work well when paired with the Macchiato. Otherwise, the Altura conforms with General MIDI 1.0 specifications and should...

  • Page 6: What's In The Box

    WHAT’S IN THE BOX Table 1: Altura MKII+ Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials (BOM) is a complete parts list of everything that should be present in your kit, followed by photos of each part. Print the BOM and carefully go through the kit, identifying every part. Before removing anything from the silver static-protective bag, please read about the proper handling of IC’s in the paragraph “Integrated Circuits (IC’s)”...
  • Page 7 Table 1: Altura MKII Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials Part # Description Notes CB-06-10 4 Pin Header Cable From PCB to distance sensors HD-10-04 Rubber Adhesive Feet CP-10-08 Electrolytic Capacitor 16V 220uF SW-30-25 Tact Switch S2,S3,S4 SW-60-23 Tact Switch Button Cap - Black HD-05-01 9V Battery Snap DI-30-56...
  • Page 8 CB-06-10 HD-10-04 S2,S3,S4 SW-60-23 BATTERY SNAP DISPLAY CH-77-21 CH-77-20 FA-64-30 HD-05-03 HD-60-10 SN-20-01 HE-20-01 HE-20-21 FA-60-34 FA-60-32 DISPLAY PCB ST-60-10 ST-60-12 PL-10-74 PL-10-75 PL-10-90 VR1-VR7 SW-60-22 FA-63-23...

  • Page 9: What You Will Need

    WHAT YOU WILL NEED Here’s everything you will need to build The Altura MkII+ Theremin MIDI Controller kit... TOOLS 1. #2 Philips screw driver 2. Soldering iron (not a soldering gun, or a “cold heat” iron), good quality, 15-50 watt, with a good medium or small-sized tip, conical or chisel shape.
  • Page 10 Solder residue usually contains lead, which is poisonous if you ingest it. Do not CAUTION: breathe the fumes, do not eat the supplies, wash your hands after you handle solder, and sweep and wipe up your work space after EVERY USE. Most of the components in your Altura MkII+ kit will be soldered to the printed circuit board (PCB);...
  • Page 11 You will notice that we have installed several components on the PCB already. These components are all surface mounted, which are a little more difficult to solder. The pre-assembly of these surface mounted components makes your job of building this kit much easier. Let’s begin! 1.
  • Page 12 b. ISP headers: Next, we’ll install the In-System Programmer (ISP) headers. This is a 2x3 header array that enables the Altura to be “flashed” or programmed with new software. Break two pieces of three pins each from the remaining row of headers. Place each of them in the ISP position on the PCB.
  • Page 13 the capacitor is the positive lead. STRIPE = NEGATIVE = SHORT LEAD = ROUND PAD NO STRIPE = POSITIVE = LONG LEAD = SQUARE PAD Make sure you orient this cap properly! For reference, Figure 3 has a little red plus sign(+) on the positive pad.
  • Page 14 4. Jacks: a. Power Jack (P1): Press it snug to the board. Double check that it is sitting flush and square to the edge of the board (17). Solder the pins on the solder side. (18) b. Power Switch (S1): Press the switch snug to the board and solder the leads. c.
  • Page 15 5. Tact Switches: a. Use a tiny drop of super glue to attach the little button caps (part number SW-60-23) to each of the switch actuators (24,25). You don’t need much glue, less than a drop each! Make sure each cap is pressed down tight to the tip of the actuator; otherwise it won’t fit properly in the case.
  • Page 16 6. Potentiometers: a. Install the potentiometers (aka “pots”). Make sure they are all seated securely and flush against the PCB; otherwise the completed board won’t fit properly into your Altura’s case (31). Double check that the shafts of the pots are all standing at 90 degrees to the board (32) b.
  • Page 17 7. Display Board: a. Seven segment display: Carefully install the seven segment display onto the display board. It is critical to note which direction the display is orientated compared to the dot on the top right of the board: the decimal places should be at the bottom of the display and the dot on the top right of the board (35,36).
  • Page 18 c. Installation on the main board: Place one 12mm standoff on each of the corner pins of the headers. Put one of the small holes through the header pin first, so that the small hole side of the header is closest to the display PCB (43,44).
  • Page 19 b. The LED is installed on the PCB in the spot marked LED. The LED, being a diode, is polarized and must be installed in the correct orientation. If you get it backwards, the light won’t work. The long lead goes into the hole with the square pad (49,50). Make sure the standoff is standing straight up.

  • Page 20: The Chassis

    THE CHASSIS 1. Use rubbing alcohol and a rag to clean and de-grease the top chassis and bottom chassis, both outside and inside. 2. Attach the labels: a. Remove all the punch-outs from the main label (including the rectangle hole for the display). Place the top label onto the top of the chassis and line up all the holes.
  • Page 21 b. Attach the pinstripe label to the front (the side without the holes) of the bottom chassis in the same way as the top label. Line up the label where you want it and then tack down one side with tape. Peel and cut half the backing. Attach that half of the label. Remove the tape and do the same thing for the other side.
  • Page 22 d. Attach the serial number label to the back of the bottom chassis. 3. Attach the four rubber feet to the corners of the bottom of the chassis. 4. Battery box ( : Use the 2 silver sheet metal screws ( to attach the battery box HD-05-02) FA-63-23 )
  • Page 23 5. Distance Sensors ( : The distance sensors are connected to the PCB via the 4-wire SN-20-01) ribbon cables (Part#CB-06-10). a. Slide the 4 pin female header (on the ribbon cable) onto the male header (on the distance sensor). The two ridges on the female header should be facing away from the metal cylinders on the other side of the module (78,79).
  • Page 24 d. Install the sensors to the inside of the top part of the chassis. Make sure the header on the sensors is pointing away from the top of the chassis. Use a #2 Philips screw driver and two coarse-thread M3x10 screws (part #FA-64-30) to install each sensor into the chassis. Do not over tighten these screws.

  • Page 25: Putting It All Together

    PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER 1. Before you install the PCB into the bottom chassis, you need to place the battery snap into the battery box. Slide the snap through the larger opening in the base of the battery box. You may need to push and finagle it around the battery box screw to get it to fit.
  • Page 26 3. Push the little red cap (part #SW-60-22) onto the power switch (96). If the button seems a little loose, add a tiny drop of super glue to the switch shaft before installing the button. 4. Open up the battery holder and pull the battery snap cable all the way into the compartment. This way, the battery snap cable won’t get hung up on anything on the circuit board once the chassis is fully assembled.
  • Page 27 b. Carefully place the top chassis onto the bottom chassis. While aligning the switches, pots, and display, slide the two pieces together. You may need to reach in with your finger and adjust the ribbon cables so that they will lay correctly and allow the pieces to slide all the way together.