Related Manuals for Model Airways Fokker Eindecker E-IV
Summary of Contents for Model Airways Fokker Eindecker E-IV
- Page 2 Before You Begin to Build At 1:16 scale, it is easy to build this Fokker Eindecker E-IV model and obtain precise detail. Laser cut parts offer a simple building method. Britannia (white metal) parts eliminate creating metal parts from scratch. However; some metal fittings will need to be formed using brass tube for authentic detailing.
- Page 3 parts in dishwashing liquid and warm water to remove traces of mold release agent and body oils your fingers may deposit. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly before applying primer and painting. Try to avoid painting, whenever possible, surfaces to be glued together, or locating pins that insert into holes. Due to the metal casting process used and shipping;...
- Page 4 The following instructions will address some sub-assemblies of components to be worked on and then set aside for later assembly. Paint all the cast metal parts first before starting to assemble. Paint brass components once assembled to painted parts to match during the build process. Additional materials that will be needed: Medium CA –Small Bottle 1 Bottle MS 4802 Gun Carriage Red...
- Page 5 any adjustments that are needed and remember to bend very slowly to relieve any stress in the parts and avoid breaking the part. It will also enable an inventory to make sure that there are no missing parts. For this instruction manual all parts were painted using Model Expo paints and brush painted. Some builders may prefer other brands and spaying with airbrush rather than by hand.
- Page 6 Turnbuckles: There are many Turnbuckles to be used for this build. Each Turnbuckle should be cleaned; holes drilled with 1/32” (#67) drill bit if necessary then primed and painted Brass. Using a needle threader insert it into a Turnbuckle hole then index a thread loop into the threader and pull the loop back through the Turnbuckle hole just to clear the hole.
- Page 7 Tie the ten (10) Turnbuckles to the Side Frames as seen in the picture below. Note that all Turnbuckles are in the upper and lower corners towards the front of the plane. This will also apply to all the fuselage stations as well. Now glue the painted Hand Pump to the right Side Frame at the two (2) location holes for the pins on the Hand Pump.
- Page 8 While waiting for the assembly glue to set; file the corner shoulders of the five (5) fuselage Stations (3 to 7) flush to the frame structures on both sides for a more authentic detail. See picture on the previous page. Due to metal casting limitations it was necessary to add the shoulders to assure proper filling of the corners.
- Page 9 Next using binding wire, seize the Fuselage Stringers in place in front of each Station diagonally twisting the wire to tighten in place on the Station corners. Start at the rear and move forward as seen in the picture below. Once all the Fuselage Stringers are seized and adjusted check the Rudder Pivot to be on center and vertically plumb then glue all the joints and allow the glue to set completely.
- Page 10 Now with the binding wires still in place cut away the extended support from the Rudder Pivot using a jeweler’s saw and file and sand smooth the saw cuts to match the contour of the Fuselage frame structure as seen in the picture below. These extensions were cast in place to facilitate correct alignment of the Fuselage when building.
- Page 11 Glue the right side Frame Member in place with the three joints being tight. The ends of the Frame Member can be filed half round with a small round file to match the Stringers. Assemble the Main Gas Tank and paint it Brass if not already done, or touch up when assembled. The two (2) halves of the Main gas Tank index to each other, medium CA can be added to the mating surfaces and the Medium CA allows a few seconds for part alignment before setting.
- Page 12 Dry fit and adjust as necessary the Tail Skid Frame to the Fuselage with the front leg of the Tail Skid Frame indexed on the Stringer joint at Station #7 and the front edge of the rear leg of the Tail Skid Frame 1/2”...
- Page 13 Locate the following parts: Cowl Frame, Left anf Right Crankshaft Support Arms, Crankshaft, Carburator Adjustment Handle and four (4) 0-80 Nuts. These parts may need signifcant adjusting to fit each other so adjust any bending very slowly. The Right Crankshaft Support Arm has the longer bolt studs than the left one when fitting them into the four holes at the end of the Fuselage Frame.
- Page 14 Insert the Interrupter Holder into the hole just above the Crankshaft hole as seen in the picture above. Then the Interrupter Linkage Pivot into the location hole at the top of the Cowl Frame. Cut and bend two (2) 1/32” brass rods indexed into Pivot Levers and Interrupter Holder holes and linkage.
- Page 15 Rudder Support Bar into the location hole in the Fuselage Brace with care that the Rudder Bar will turn freely on the shaft once the glue has set. Next gather the two (2) Black Rudder Bar lines straight back into the cockpit area for now. Tie off the gray lines to the Fuselage Frame Loops for the rear lines and the forward lines to the forward Fuselage joints.
- Page 16 Frame into the locating holes on the Seat Cushion. Test fit and adjust as needed the Seat Base Frame to fit onto the Fuselage Stringers setting centered and square to the Fuselage Frame in the cockpit. File with a round needle file the contact surfaces for a strong joint. When satisfied with the Seat test fit bend and form the Seat Back into a half round shape to fit the Seat Frame, bending over a round mandrel such as a tool handle will help.
- Page 17 Mix Oak Stain using the English Oak paint and really dilute with water and apply the stain to both sides of the Floorboard and allow drying. Locate the following parts: Hinges two (2); Pins two (2); Leather Strip, 2 inches skived and cut in half. Skiving is the removal of the excess leather from the unfinished side.
- Page 18 Insert the Control Rod into the Joystick short end to the front and align the holes. Very carefully thread the 00-90 x 1/4” Bolt until the Bolt head just seats against the side of the Joystick and then add the Nut to the other side of the Bolt and tighten the Nut to just touch the side of the Joystick. The Joystick must be free to move back and forth.
- Page 19 same with the two (2) Black lines from the Rudder Bar. These lines can be sorted out later when being attached to the Rudder and Elevator. Tail Skid: Add the Tail Skid by inserting and aligning the holes in the Tail Skid Frame and secure in place with a 1/4”...
- Page 20 place with the holes facing to the rear on to the spar at the ends of the brass Connector Tube. See the pictures on the next page as well as the plan sheet. With a small round needle file clean the cast in location notches for the Ribs as seen in the picture below.
- Page 21 Once all the ribs are in place as seen below with tight glue joints and the glue has set paint all the Ribs Pearl Gray. With an alligator clip or small clamp, clamp the Elevator to the Rudder Pivot of the Fuselage and centered on the Fuselage Stringers and level with the Rudder Pivot.
- Page 22 The weight of the aft portion will hold the wood strip against the Fuselage Stringers. Start with the two lines from the bottom of the Joystick which will attach to the top holes in the Control Horns and seize a Turnbuckle on each line just even with the wood strip. Small alligator clips will hold the ends of the lines passed through the holes in the Turnbuckles until lashed with thin Black thread.
- Page 23 Glue the Rudder Bellcrank in place on the Rudder shaft touching the perimeter rod with the smooth side facing down. File clean the notch locations for the Ribs for strong glue joints. Cut away the sprue at the bottom of the Rudder as seen in the picture on the previous page. This sprue was needed for casting purposes for a quality part.
- Page 24 Main Landing Gear: Gather the following parts for the Main Landing Gear; Front V Brace; Rear V Brace; Left Swing Axle; Right Swing Axle; Axle Struts (2); Wing Transport Carrier Rod; Front Bellcrank; Rear Bellcrank; 3/32”x 2-7/8” Brass Tube; 0-80 Nuts (2); 00-90 x 1/4” Bolt and Nut (2). See picture below. Glue the Front and Rear V Braces in place on the Fuselage Stringers at the junction of the Cross Braces perpendicular to the Fuselage.
- Page 25 Insert the Front Bellcrank shaft into the hole at the bottom of the Rear V Brace and then add the Rear Bellcrank to the shaft and glue in place aligning the cable holes front and rear in both Bellcranks. Make sure the Bellcranks are free to rotate. Now with the Control Stick in the neutral position and the Lower Bellcrank Arm parallel to the Upper Bellcrank on the Control Rod tie two (2) equal cables from the Upper to the Lower Bellcrank with no slack.
- Page 26 Tank and the Filler Neck to the top. The two Line Connectors can also be added to the Main Tank. See the Plan Sheet for exact locations of these components. Seat Belts: There are four (4) Seat belts – 2 Upper; 2 Lower and each belt are comprised of two (2) Straps. The supplied leather strip is too thick to work in scale and must first be skived to work in scale.
- Page 27 Once eight (8) Straps are cut, sanded smooth with medium sandpaper and ends cut square attach one end to the center strip of the adjusting photoetched Slide part and one Fastener end using medium CA to glue the folded Strap to hold the parts. See the picture above. Repeat the process to make four (4) Seat Belt Straps.
- Page 28 Assemble the two (2) Ammo Cans gluing the P.E. parts to the cast Ammo Can parts and file the edges to match. See the Spent Ammo Can above. Set the Front Ammo Can aside for now. Below is a picture of the rear view of the fitted Spent Ammo Can in the Machine Gun Mounting Frame.
- Page 29 the Mast Cap on the Mast Shaft. Glue the assembled Mast to the Fuselage stringers butted against the Machine Gun Mount Frame perpendicular to the Fuselage as seen in the picture above. Wiring & Lines: Adding the Wiring and especially the Copper Lines to various parts will be the most challenging part of this kit build requiring a degree of patience.
- Page 30 Then add the P.E. Labels to the right of the Fuel System Cocks. File sand smooth and polish half round the end of the Acrylic Rod and cut to a 1/4” length and glue into the Oil Pulsator. Form a short length of Copper Wire into the configuration seen in the picture below.
- Page 31 Cock. Once the two (2) Lines are formed carefully glue them into their connection points and with thin black thread seize them to the Stringer at the Loops in the Fuselage as seen in the pictures above and below. Bend a Copper Line from the end of the Air Hand Pump back up to the upper connection on the T Connection.
- Page 32 below. From the Tachometer go forward at a slight downward angle along the Fuselage side and form a 90 degree bend toward the upper left side connection point on the Air/Oil Pump. Add the Altimeter to the underneath right side of the Fuselage Stringer as seen in the picture below. The Altimeter was not fitted on all aircraft and was a pilot’s choice to add.
- Page 33 Forward Fuel/Oil Tank: The Forward Tank is divided between fuel and oil, assemble, prime and paint the two (2) halves of the Forward Tank, if not done already. Glue the three (3) fittings the two outer are Fuel Line Connections, however only the one next to the Fuel Tank Drain Valve will be connected. Note the orientation of the Fuel Line Connections with the horizontal connections pointing to the Rear vertical wall.
- Page 34 Tank adjustment may be necessary later. Form a Copper Drain Line from the Petcock forward from the Petcock to the corner of the Fuselage and down. See the picture below. Also check the Build Patterns and Details Plan Sheet for drawing of all connection points. Form the left and right Cowl Frame Stringers using 1/16”...
- Page 35 Prime paint the two (2) Ammo Can Chutes; left and right a Steel Color. Paint the Bullet Belts the colors as seen below. Glue a six (6) inch length of Black Line into each of the drilled holes in the bottom of the Receivers.
- Page 36 they will be trapped when the guns are glued in place. Check the alignment of the Machine Guns with the Cooling Jackets being parallel looking down and side to side and adjust as needed. The guns should have a slight angle up. Once guns are aligned as best as possible, all parts are glued in place and Interrupter Rods in the Receiver holes add glue to the gun location pins and holes at the rear of the guns sufficient enough to hold in place.
- Page 37 The Eindecker wings are symmetrically mirrored left to right with the right wing having the Bracket to hold the Compass as seen in the picture above. The laser cutting technology enables the delicate Wing Ribs to be replicated as close as possible to the original wing construction. Care must be especially taken when working with the Wing Ribs.
- Page 38 RIBS: Once all the various Rib parts are removed from the carrier sheets; very carefully sand using a flat sanding board all the perimeters to remove any tab connections and some of the laser cutting char. Start with Rib WR1 and work through to WR5 adding the Rib Caps (1/32” x 3/32” x 12”) starting first with the bottom edge of the ribs and glue the Cap Strips in place centered on the Rib and hold in place using small alligator clips with 1/4”...
- Page 39 For the top Rib Caps soak the ends of the wood strips in hot water as before and once pliable pre-form the top curve carefully with fingers then glue in place with Yellow glue. See the pictures above. Once all the Ribs with Caps in place are set;...
- Page 40 with a straight edge set on the inner line of the trailing edge of the building pattern mark with a pencil a cut line. Then with a scrap piece of 1/64” plywood from the carrier sheet slip under the ribs and cut off the end of the Ribs for the Trailing Edge.
- Page 41 Fit the formed Wing Tip in place at the end of the forward Spar and the Rib WR5 and if the fit is good, or adjust if needed then glue the forward end of the Wing Tip to the end of the Leading Edge flush to the bottom edge.
- Page 42 Form the two (2) Plywood Step Plates using hot water soaking and slowly form with fingers to match to rib locations onto Rib WR1 and WR2 and once the shape is maintained dry then set aside to be glued in place later. Add the twelve (12) Rib Tabs WR6 and WR6a (1) making sure that they are spaced about 1/32”...
- Page 43 Wing Hardware: Gather the following painted cast metal parts for the wings: Four (4) Sets of Forward Spar Cable Anchor Points (upper and lower); four (4) Sets of Rear Spar Cable Anchor Points (upper and lower); two (2) Rear Spar Eye Bolts; two (2) 0-80 Washers; two (2) 0-80 Nuts; six Compression Struts;...
- Page 44 Bracing Cables: Cables and compression struts were used in combination to strengthen the wings. The first thing is to seize the gray thread as used in the Fuselage to Turnbuckles using the Needle Threader to pull the thread through the Turnbuckle holes. See Picture above. Seizing a thread to the Turnbuckle starts by inserting the Needle Threader into the hole in the Turnbuckle then inserting a loop of thread into the Needle Threader and pulling the loop back through the hole enough to be able to pull the other ends of the thread through the loop after releasing the Needle Threader and pull the...
- Page 45 rear Spar and the Trailing Edge. 2 being centered in the space between the forward and rear Spars; 3 the space between 2 and the rear Spar and 4 between 2 and forward Spar. Typical for each application is to center the ribbon on the Wing Tip and glue to the Wing Tip then interweave per the Building Pattern and not interfere with Bracing Cables, pull taut to keep the ribbon even and then glue one of the ribbons on the inboard Rib, let the glue set then check the tautness of the second and glue in place.
- Page 46 Cable Leads: Seize eighteen (18) Cable Leads; one end of a Turnbuckle with 7/8” thread from the Turnbuckle attachment hole. Glue two (2) Cable Leads into the Front Spar inboard anchor point as seen in the picture on the previous page and on the Plan Sheets for each Wing (Left and Right). Then glue the remaining fourteen (14) Cable Leads into each anchor point above and below the Wings.
- Page 47 just taut enough to hold the Wings and keep the Cable Lines straight. DO NOT GLUE the knots seizing the lower Bracing Cables at the Turnbuckles; this will allow for adjusting if necessary later. The rear Spar inboard Warping Cables are seized on the Front Bellcrank at the bottom of the Rear V Strut just behind the Lower Bellcrank.
- Page 48 Dry fit the Front and Rear Covers to the Crankcase. Attention: There is a correct and wrong way to assemble them. The Crankcase cylinder locations have a recessed “T” in them, if holding the Crankcase in your left hand vertically the leg of the T should point away from you. See picture below. The Front Cover has double sets of 14 bolt heads, while the Rear Cover has 12 single spaced bolt heads.
- Page 49 Dry fit the Cylinders and clean the Cylinder seats of any burrs and check the bottom of the Cylinders and if necessary file to flat to fit. The Cylinders must fit flat and straight up with the spark plugs pointing to the rear.
- Page 50 Now drill clean the Rocker Arms indexing holes for the Pushrods using a 1/32” drill bit. On the Cylinder Tops very carefully align vertically the Valve Spring. Paint the Cylinder Tops Hull Spar Black except for the Valve Spring and under surface that will be glued. Glue the Rocker Arms to the Cylinder Tops indexing the Valve Spring between the tangs on the Rocker Arms.
- Page 51 Once satisfied with the fit of the Rocker Arm assembly, add a 0-80 Nut to the bottom of the Pushrod to rest on the post of the Cam Cover and glue the Rocker Arm Assembly in place trapping the Pushrod. Repeat the process for the balance of the Cylinders noting that there are two different lengths as mentioned earlier needed for the front and rear rows of Cylinders.
- Page 52 Propeller: The Propeller will be a typical design used for the Eindecker comprising of nine (9) laminations of laser cut woods alternating with Basswood (light); Cherry (medium); and Walnut (dark) Locate clean and paint Steel, if not done already the two (2) Propeller Hub Plates with bolt heads (rear) and nuts (front) cast in place.
- Page 53 of the blade from the center to the tip will do most of the carving. Use short slicing action cuts removing just small amounts of wood at a time being sensitive to the wood grain direction. When close to the finished surfaces caving with the blade, switch to a half round needle file and file smooth and blend the surfaces and use the curved side of the file near the center for the blending.
- Page 54 glue to the joint for a strong joint. Set the Propeller with Hub Plates in place onto the Cam Cover Shaft and tack the Propeller Nut in place to the Front Plate using the shaft to locate the Nut as seen in the picture below.
- Page 55 the Top Frame. Finally, glue the curved diagonal Frame Member to the side of the socket that the Top Frame is glued into. See the picture below. Test the Engine to make sure it rotates freely without hitting any of the Frames and adjust Frames as needed. Add a drop of medium CA to the side of the Cam Cover shaft and slip the Propeller in place on the shaft making sure that the Propeller is completely seated against the shoulder of the shaft.