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General Notes
As you work on your Tiger, study the plans and this instruction sheet. Proceed step-by-step, in the order suggested, and most
problems just won't happen.
Prevent framework and plans from sticking together by covering plans with transparent kitchen wrap.
Don't remove parts from the die-cut balsa sheets until you are ready to use them. Carefully use a stiff backed razor blade to free
stubborn pieces. Trim the scrap wood away from the outside of the part in small pieces. Prying or forcing may damage the part.
Don't push pins through small balsa pieces. Hold the parts in place over the plans with pins on each side not through the middle.
If balsa strips must be bent, soak them first in water. Use lots of pins to hold the curved shape. Allow to dry overnigh t before
cementing other parts to them.
Don't Hurry! When a part has been soaked or cemented, wait for it to dry completely before going ahead. While that assembly is
drying, work on some other part.
Always cement your sandpaper to a block. A 3-inch length of I"x2" lumber is a handy size.
Use Sig-Bond or Sig-Ment to assemble balsa frameworks. Do not use cement made for plastic models. Attach tissue with full
strength clear dope. If you dope the covering, use only Sig Lite-Coat dope. Ordinary dope will shrink the tissue too much,
causing the surfaces to warp.
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Table of Contents
Related Manuals for SIG Tiger SIGFF22 Classic Series
Summary of Contents for SIG Tiger SIGFF22 Classic Series
- Page 1 Use Sig-Bond or Sig-Ment to assemble balsa frameworks. Do not use cement made for plastic models. Attach tissue with full strength clear dope. If you dope the covering, use only Sig Lite-Coat dope. Ordinary dope will shrink the tissue too much,...
- Page 2 MAIN CONSTRUCTION Building The Fuselage Start on the main frame of the fuselage, but while you are waiting for the glue to dry on the large parts, build some of the small assemblies - then they will be ready to use when you need them. Build one Bulkhead B-4 over the plans and lightly cement the temporary brace to it while it is still pinned to the plans.
- Page 3 Next, build the right and left wings over the plans. The spar, and the leading and trailing edges all rest against the center section but are not glued to it. Cut two C-3 pieces from 1/16"x3/16" strip balsa, using the pattern on the plans. Before installing the W-1 ribs, set the two C-3s in place on top of the center section frame, one on each side of the spars.
- Page 4 The fuselage can be covered in large sections - but use as many pieces as necessary to get a smooth job. The fuselage covering can be tightened with a fine water spray and given a coat or two of Sig Lite-Coat Dope if you like.
- Page 5 Preflight Preparations Before you leave the workshop for the flying field, take these important steps. Looking from the front of the model, check that the bottom of the wing and tail surfaces are flat - not twisted. Sight down the center line of the fuselage as shown in the drawing.
- Page 6 Stalling If your plane noses up, LOSES SPEED, and then falls clumsily or dives, that is a STALL. To cure a stall, adjust the angle of the stabilizer by changing the thickness of the incidence block under it. Lower the front edge or raise the rear edge.
- Page 7 A plane's weight determines how much power it needs. If your ship is huskier than average, it may not climb, even when fully wound. In that case, add one strand (not a complete loop) of 1/8" Sig rubber to the motor. Tie an eye (like a slip knot) in each end.
- Page 8 Good Flying! SIG MFG. CO., INC. is totally committed to your success in both assembling and flying the Tiger. Should you encounter any problem building this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts, please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.
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