SIG Kougar MARK II SIGRC35 Building And Flying Instructions
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SIG Kougar MARK II SIGRC35 Building And Flying Instructions

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The Kougar was designed as an advanced aileron trainer for fliers who have had some flying time on an intermediate trainer
such as the Sig Komander or Sig Kavalier. While it is very maneuverable and can do difficult FAI pattern maneuvers and even
accomplish lomcevaks, the model has been carefully tailored to handle easily and not be touchy in the hands of novice fliers. A
fully symmetrical wing section provides good inverted and outside stunting characteristics.
For use as a trainer, a .40 cu. in. engine is recommended. A .45 gives faster performance and would be good for pattern
competition. One of the prototype models was powered by a .49 and the model is strong enough to handle this amount of power
though this engine size is advisable only for advanced contest or sport fliers who wish to achieve high flying speed and steep
angles of climb.
We do our best to put as good a grade of balsa in our kits as the supply situation permits. The world-wide increase in demand
for balsa has made it impossible to obtain as high an average quality as used to be the case and this situation is getting
worse.
Every piece of balsa supplied cannot be 100% perfect or kit prices would have to be greatly increased. Mineral stains or small
knots do not seriously affect wood strength. Even with the very best grades of balsa, there is a natural tendency for some
sticks or sheets to immediately bow upon being cut off from a perfectly square block because of builtin stresses. In most
cases, these can be bowed back into alignment during building. True up the edges of bowed sheet by trimming, using a metal
straight edge to cut against. Planking sheets, as used on the wing, need not be perfectly flat since they must be curved into
place anyway during construction. The gluing of the plywood doublers and stringers to the fuselage sides while they are
pinned to a flat surface should flatten out any warps in the side sheets.

Recommended Glues

The framework should be glued with Sig-Bond resin type glue. Areas subjected to unusual strain, exposed to fuel or oil, or
including metal pieces, should be epoxied with Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig Kwik-Set 5 minute type epoxy. Some specific pieces have
other recommendations. You will find these in the directions concerning the part.
A Note About Balsa Wood

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  • Page 1 The Kougar was designed as an advanced aileron trainer for fliers who have had some flying time on an intermediate trainer such as the Sig Komander or Sig Kavalier. While it is very maneuverable and can do difficult FAI pattern maneuvers and even accomplish lomcevaks, the model has been carefully tailored to handle easily and not be touchy in the hands of novice fliers.

  • Page 2: Wing Construction

    Tape seven sheets tightly together with strips of masking tape. Turn over and open up the joints, with the masking tape serving as a hinge. Put a bead of Sig Bond in each of the seams and close the joint.
  • Page 3 4. Lay the sheets flat. Scrape off the excess glue with a squeegee made from a balsa scrap. Finish glue cleanup with a damp rag. Weight down the sheets on a flat surface and allow to dry thoroughly. 5. Sand the wing skins smooth with the sanding block. 6.
  • Page 4 Sig Core Bond is much less likely to do this type of damage and is Model cement such as Sig-Ment, dope more forgiving of errors in assembly technique.
  • Page 5 This handy specialized glue is available at hardware stores and lumber yards. 19. Glue on the 1/4"x3/4" leading edge, holding it in place with pins and strips of masking tape. Sig Bond glue is recommended.
  • Page 6 1". Sand the wing ends (Photo 25) as required to make the cente joint fit correctly together. Glue the halves together with Sig Epoxy Glue or Sig Kwik-Set Glue. Use plenty of glue where the balsa shee meets so that the joint between the two halves is completely filled.
  • Page 7 26. Cut out the wing tip blocks, using the pattern, at the end of these instructions, for the top view and the end of the sheeted wing for the side view. Glue the tip block on with Sig Bond, holding it in place with masking tape and/or pins. Carve and sand to shape.
  • Page 8 INSTALLING EASY HINGES Using a No.11 X-Acto blade (or similar) cut a slot approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinge. After all slots have been cut, insert an Easy Hinge halfway into each slot in one of the pieces to be hinged. Then carefully slide the matching model part onto the other half of the hinges.
  • Page 9 NOTE: If you are in a hurry to get the model built and aren't interested in a perfect bottom line contour between the wing and fuselage, ignore Steps 35 and 36. Look ahead to Step 37 for an explanation of a simplified wing bolt hole reinforcement.
  • Page 10 Cut strips of 2" fiberglass tape for both sides of the wing center joint. 43. We use regular Sig Epoxy Glue (not Kwik-Set Glue) for applying the fiberglass tape, since it is thinner and easier to spread out smoothly. It will be even easier to spread if you warm the mixing container by setting it in hot water for a few minutes to raise the temperature of the glue.

  • Page 11: Fuselage Construction

    FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION NOTE: Vertical or side mounting may be used, but the tank position should be changed accordingly to keep it in the same relationship to the motor's needle valve hole. 47. Smooth and even F-IA and F-IB with the sandpaper block.
  • Page 12 Do not use Sig-Bond, White Glue or any other water-base adhesive to glue the plywood doubler to the fuselage sides. The water in these glues causes the parts to curl. Use Sig Epoxy or Sig Kwik-Set. Only a thin film of epoxy glue will be necessary. Sig Kwik-Set sets up in under 5 minutes so you must work rapidly when...
  • Page 13 CAUTION Do not glue the plywood doublers, on with Sig Bond, Tite Bond, Elmer's white glue or any other adhesive that has a water base. Water base glue will cause the doublers and sides to curl because of the large area being glued.
  • Page 14 62. Notch out the plywood doubler and side as required to pass the motor mount blind nut later when the sides are joined. a. Using the pattern, drill 1/4" holes in F-2. b. Check the dowels in the holes. They should fit snugly but not so tight as to be difficult to remove.
  • Page 15 72. Saw a notch in the bottom triangle stock, flush with the plywood doubler to accomodate F-IB. a. Sand the bottom of the fuselage smooth and level with the sanding block. (As is shown being done to the fuselage top in picture No. 79.) b.
  • Page 16 Modern plastic tanks are virtually indestructable under normal use and bursting or cracking is almost unknown. If you use Sig Heat Proof Silicone tubing (which will not harden or deteriorate in fuel) in the plastic tank, the tank will seldom have to be removed.
  • Page 17 SIGSH559 cable and tubing pushrods are recommended. The nose compartment can be oilproofed at this time by painting it with warmed Sig Epoxy Glue (See Paragraph No. 43). a. Reach through the top and epoxy in the triangular firewall braces that were cut to fit previously in Step 62c.
  • Page 18 REAR DECK AND TAIL ASSEMBLY Note: The stabilizer and rudder parts are easiest to cover before they are hinged and attached to the fuselage. Refer to the Finishing section and prepare the tail parts before hinging and attaching to the fuselage. Test assemble them on the hinges before covering to insure that a good edge and end match has been obtained in the sanding operation.
  • Page 19 90. Shape the front of part FF so that the plastic turtle deck will fit over it. 91. Pin FF in place and mark the contour on the front where it contacts the plastic turtle deck. 92. Carve and sand FF to a streamline shape.

  • Page 20: Covering And Finishing

    Don't skip covering the fuselage and tail just because they are solid wood. Painting them without covering first is not enough. They will be much more resistant to splitting and breaking on hard impacts if they are covered with something - Sig Silk, Silkspan, Sig Silray or iron-on covering material.
  • Page 21 Allow the water to dry out of the wood before applying the first full coat of clear dope. Apply 3 or more coats of clear dope. Sand with 220 3M Tri-M-Ite or other no-load paper. Keep in mind that extra coats of dope will add weight. Sig Lite Coat clear dope may be used in place of Supercoat Clear if desired.
  • Page 22 Stik-Tite Water-Slide Cut out the decals with a pair Dip the decals in water for a few seconds, remove and allow the of sharp scissors. Leave moisture to soak into the backing to completely loosen the glue. Don't 1/32" to 1/16" of clear edge slide the decal off too soon, it may tear.
  • Page 23 NOSE GEAR a. The nose gear is held in the nylon bearing by the steering arm. Angle the arm forward so that when the servo pulls it back for a left turn, the arm will clear the face of the firewall. b.
  • Page 24 A flexible cable pushrod with nylon outer tubing (not furnished) is recommended for hookup of the throttle to the motor control servo. A variety of quickly detachable pushrod retainers are available from Sig Catalog for hooking the pushrods to the servos. SIGSH184 pushrod retainers are recommended, or a solder clevis (SIGSH527) may be used.
  • Page 25 Radio installation in one of the prototype Kougars A UM-3 plastic mount on the 3/8" sq. crosspieces holds three EK-MM servos. The receiver is wrapped in a foam rubber package and stowed just ahead of the servos. Some RC outfits have one or more reverse direction servos which are handy when it is found more convenient in a particular installation to have a pushrod hook to the servo on the opposite side.
  • Page 26 For the first test flight, balance the Kougar by suspending it on the finger tips placed the C.G. properly located, a Sig on the bottom of the wing on the first mark. Balance with an empty fuel tank, but with design should fly with only minor trim all other equipment installed and the model completely finished and painted.
  • Page 27 FLYING IMPORTANT: The Kougar is not a basic trainer. If you have no previous RC flying experience you cannot successfully fly a fast and responsive design like the Kougar, particularly on test flights. It is suggested that you not attempt flying without the assistance of a modeler with experience.
  • Page 35 SIG MFG. CO., INC. Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520 LIMIT OF LIABILITY: In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.

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