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Using first fine and then coarse sanding paper, sand the flood apertures that are raised from the inside
and the details. Sand down to the wall. When building the display models, we also recommend
sanding the apertures, but unlike in the powered model where they are to remain open, they are then
closed again from the rear using a black lacquered component. This, in our view, makes the apertures
look tidier rather than just leaving them closed and only painting them over.
Using fine sandpaper that is glued to a larger level plate, sand the edges absolutely level so that the
two hull halves fit precisely when glued together. Use this technique on all cut-out components.
Bend some strips of 12 x 1.5 mm ABS so as to follow the contours of the hull radius. Cut these into 40
pieces of 25 mm length each (3). They will be glued to the interior of the lower hull half.
Tip! To bend the plastic strips, pull them over the edge of the table of your workbench until they roll
up. Repeat this until the correct radius is achieved.
Cut 9 strips of 50 x 10 mm (4). They are used to connect the upper side of the hull - 2 pieces in the
area of the bow before the removable section, 5 in the central removable part. Leave a gap of at least
37 mm in the area of the cut of the removable part (see drawing).
Page 3
© Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
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