Installing The Dcs/Dcc Switch; Installing The Proto-Couplers - M.T.H. Proto-Sound 3.0 Installation Manual

Installing The DCS/DCC Switch

Remove the existing Battery Charge Jack and retain the screws. If the switch
fits into the opening then secure it to the chassis with at least one of the
screws. However, in most cases it will not fit. Therefore, you will need to set
the switch to the desired setting (DCS or DCC) BEFORE you re-assemble
the model. Additionally, you will need to wrap electrical tape around the
switch contacts to ensure they do not short to anything in the model.
Alternatively, if you wish to run the model in DCS mode or Conventional
Mode ONLY, then you can de-solder the two wires attached to the DCS/DCC
switch and solder them together. Ensure you use a piece of heat shrink tubing
to insulate the solder joint.
If you wish to run the model in DCC Mode then you can de-solder the wires
from the switch and put a small piece of heat shrink tubing over the ends of
both wires to insulate them.
Note: When the wires are jumped together you can ONLY run the model in
Conventional Mode or DCS Mode. You will NOT be able to run the model in
DCC mode.
Note: In order to load the any software or sound files into the PS3/2 board
you MUST have the switch in DCS mode.

Installing The Proto-Couplers

- Install the proto-couplers (C) onto
the existing locomotive trucks or
coupler mount locations using the
existing hardware. Be sure to route
the coupler wire harness through the
chassis floor as shown.
- The front truck Proto-Coupler
connector attaches to the black &
purple harness from the 40-Pin
chassis harness.
Note: Use coupler insulator (CC) as
required to prevent shorts from
coupler solder connections to
truck axle.
Proto-Sound 3.0 Upgrade Kit Installation Guide - Diesel/Electric
The Proto-Coupler installs in the same
location as the original engine coupler.
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