JUKI HZL-70 series Instruction Manual
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JUKI HZL-70 series Instruction Manual

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HZL-70 Series

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Please read this instruction manual before using
the machine as it contains important operational
and safety information.
Attention
Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer
to it at anytime while operating the machine.

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Summary of Contents for JUKI HZL-70 series

  • Page 1: Instruction Manual

    HZL-70 Series INSTRUCTION MANUAL Please read this instruction manual before using the machine as it contains important operational and safety information. Attention Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer to it at anytime while operating the machine.

  • Page 3: Important Safety Instructions

    “ IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ” When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. “DANGER ____ To reduce the risk of electric shock:” 1. The appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. 2.
  • Page 4 10. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, when lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 12. Do not use outdoors. 13.
  • Page 5 "SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS" "This sewing machine is intended for household use only." Congratulations on your purchase of a JUKI sewing machine. Please be sure to read safety precautions in "To use the sewing machine safely" in the Instruction Manual before use to fully understand the functions and operating procedures of the sewing machine so as to use the sewing machine for a long time.
  • Page 6 WARNING For the combination of the material and the thread and needle, in particular, refer to the explanation table in "Replacement of the needle". If the needle or thread does not match the material used such as in the case that an extra heavyweight material (e.g., denim) is sewn with a thin needle (#11 or higher), the needle can break resulting in an unexpected personal injury.

  • Page 7: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS GETTING READY TO SEW Principal parts of the machine ............10 Sewing table .
  • Page 8 ORDINARY SEWING Overcasting stitches ..............35 using the overcasting foot .
  • Page 9 APPENDIX Warning functions ..............58 Warning beeping sound .

  • Page 10: Principal Parts Of The Machine

    Principal parts of the machine 1. Speed limiting adjustment lever 2. Needle up/down position button 3. Auto-lock button 4. Reverse button Start/stop button Thread cutter Buttonhole lever 8. Auto needle threader 9. Bobbin cover plate 10. Sewing table and accessory 11.

  • Page 11: Sewing Table

    Sewing table Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and pull it in the direction of the arrow. The inside of the snap-in sewing table is used as an accessory box. Accessories Standard Standard presser foot 2. Zipper foot (I) 3. Buttonhole foot (D) 4.

  • Page 12: Type Of Presser Foot Chart

    Type of presser foot chart PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION NEEDLE General sewing, Cording Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Standard Presser Cording foot (M) Fagoting, etc. foot (T) (Optional) Inserting zippers Narrow hemming Zipper foot (I) Hemmer foot (K) (Optional) Buttonhole sewing Darning...

  • Page 13: Connecting The Machine

    Connecting the machine Before connecting the power supply, make sure that the voltage and frequency shown on the rating plate is conforming with your mains power. Place the machine on a stable table. 1. Connect the power cord to the machine by inserting the 2-hole plug into the mains plug socket.

  • Page 14: Winding The Bobbin

    Winding the bobbin 1. Place the thread and spool cap onto the spool pin. For smaller spools of thread, place spool cap with the small side next to the spool or use the small spool cap. 2. Snap the thread into the thread guide.

  • Page 15: Inserting The Bobbin

    Inserting the bobbin Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") before inserting or removing the bobbin. When inserting or removing the bobbin, the needle and presser foot must be fully raised. Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread running in a counterclockwise direction (arrow).

  • Page 16: Threading The Upper Thread

    Threading the upper thread Note: It is important to carry out the threading correctly as by not doing so several sewing problems could result. Start by raising the needle to its highest point, and also raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.

  • Page 17: Using The Needle Threader

    Using the needle threader Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot. Attention: Turn power switch to the off position ("O"). Lower the needle threader lever slowly and draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.

  • Page 18: Raising Up The Lower Thread

    Raising up the lower thread 1. Hold the upper thread with the left hand. Turn the handwheel towards you (counterclockwise) lowering, then raising the needle. 2. Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle plate hole.

  • Page 19: Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

    Adjusting presser foot pressure Standard presser foot pressure set at "2". The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and no need for change unless sewing particular type of fabric (light-or-heavy weight). If you do need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw by ones finger.

  • Page 20: Replacing The Needle

    Replacing the needle Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the above operations! Change the needle regularly, especially if it is showing signs of wear and causing problems. Insert the needle following the illustrated instructions. A.

  • Page 21: Changing The Presser Foot

    Changing the presser foot Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the above operations! Removing the presser foot (1) Raise the presser foot. Press the black lever (e) and the foot will disengages. Attaching the presser foot (2) Lower the presser foot holder (b) until the cut-out (c) is directly above the pin (d).

  • Page 22: Two-Step Presser Foot Lifter

    Two-step presser foot lifter The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot. When sewing several layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot can be raised a second stage for easy positioning of the work. To raise or drop the feed dogs With the sewing table off the machine, the feed dog...

  • Page 23: Matching Needle/ Fabric/ Thread

    Matching needle/ fabric/ thread Needle, fabric, thread selection guide NEEDLE SIZE FABRICS THREAD Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon, 9-11 (70-80) Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, cotton knits, polyester or cotton wrapped polyester. tricot, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt &...

  • Page 24: Buttons Of The Machine

    Buttons of the machine 1. Start/stop button 2. Reverse button 3. Auto-lock/ Stop button 4. Needle up/ down position button 5. Speed limiting adjustment lever 6. Mode selection button 7. Stitch length adjustment button 8. Stitch width adjustment button 9. Direct pattern selection buttons Start/stop button (1) The machine will start running...

  • Page 25: Reverse Button (2)

    Reverse button (2) When the patterns 01-15, 23-80 are selected, the machine will sew reverse or a reinforcement stitch at a low speed if the reverse button is pressed. The machine will sew forward after the button is released. Auto-Lock/Stop button (3) When the patterns 01-15 are selected, the machine will immediately sew 3 locking...

  • Page 26: Mode Selection Button (6)

    Mode selection button (6) The LED light will be set at pattern mode " " when the machine is turned on. The light will run by the sequence of pattern, stitch width, and stitch length mode. Utility and decorative pattern mode: There are 80 patterns for selection 01~80, stitch selection using the stitch...

  • Page 27: Sitch Width Adjustment Button (8)

    Stitch width adjustment button (8) When you select a stitch the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch width. If the pre-set stitch width need adjusting once the pattern is selected, push mode button " " to move to the stitch width position.

  • Page 28: Pattern Chart

    Pattern chart Width (mm) Length (mm) Functions Presser Stitch Pattern Foot Manual Manual Reverse Auto Auto Auto-lock 0.0~7.0 0.0~4.5 0.0~7.0 0.0~4.5 0.0~7.0 1.0~3.0 1.0~6.0 1.0~3.0 0.0~7.0 1.5~3.0 0.0~7.0 0.3~4.5 2.0~7.0 0.3~4.5 Utility stitches 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 3.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 2.5~7.0 0.5~4.5 2.5~7.0 0.5~4.5...
  • Page 29 Width (mm) Length (mm) Presser Functions Stitch Pattern Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Reverse Auto-lock 2.5~7.0 1.5~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.0~4.5 3.0~7.0 1.0~4.5 Quilt stitches 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 3.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 3.5~7.0 1.5~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 3.0~7.0 1.0~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 3.0~7.0 1.5~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.0~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.5~3.0 2.5~7.0 1.5~3.0...

  • Page 30: Thread Tension

    Thread tension - Basic thread tension setting: "4" - To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up. To reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down. - Proper setting of tension is important to good sewing. - For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch and less fabric...

  • Page 31: Useful Skills

    Useful skills Sewing corners 1. Stop the sewing machine when you reach a corner. 2. Lower the needle into the fabric manually or by pressing the needle up/ down button once. 3. Raise the presser foot. 4. Use the needle as a pivot and turn the fabric.

  • Page 32: Sewing On The Heavy Fabric

    Sewing on heavy fabrics The black button on the right side of the presser foot will lock the presser foot in a horizontal position if you push it in before lowering the presser foot. This ensures even feeding at the beginning of a seam and helps when sewing multiple layers of fabric such as sewing over...

  • Page 33: Straight Stitches And Needle Position

    Straight stitches and needle position Changing the needle position These setting apply only to patterns 01-05. The pre-set position is "3.5", center position. When you press the "–" stitch width adjustment button, the needle position will move to the left. When you press the "+" stitch width adjustment button, the needle position will move to the right.

  • Page 34: Stretch Stitch

    Stretch stitches Use this stitch with knitted, tricot or other stretchy fabrics. The stitch enables your seam to stretch without breaking the thread. Straight stretch stitch Good for easy to ravel and knit fabrics. It is good for joining durable fabric such as denims. These stitches can also be used as a decorative top stitch.

  • Page 35: Overcasting Stitches

    Overcasting stitches Sewing overcasting stitches along the edges of fabric to prevent them from fraying. 5.0~7.0 2.0~3.0 Using the overcasting foot Change the presser foot to the overcasting foot (E). Sew the fabric with the fabric edge against the guide of the overcasting foot.

  • Page 36: Blind Hem/ Lingerie Stitch

    Blind hem/ Lingerie stitch Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem, this 2.5~4.0 1.0~2.0 stitch will sew without stitches showing on right side of fabric. 11: Blind hem/lingerie for firm fabrics 12: Blind hem for stretch fabrics Note: It takes practice to sew blind hems.

  • Page 37: Button Sewing

    Button sewing Change the presser foot to the button sewing foot. 2.5~4.5 Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs. Position the work under the foot. Place the button in the desired position, lower the foot. Select zig zag pattern.

  • Page 38: Buttonhole Stitching

    Buttonhole stitching Buttonhole sewing to match the size of the button is possible. For stretch fabric or thin fabric, 3.0~7.0 0.3~1.0 it is recommended to use a stabilizer for a better buttonhole finish. For thin or medium fabric 3.0~5.5 0.3~1.0 For horizontal holes on blouses or shirts made from thin or medium fabric...
  • Page 39 Select the buttonhole stitch. Adjust the stitch width and the stitch length to the desired width and density. Position the fabric under the presser foot with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the center line on the buttonhole foot.
  • Page 40 Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown. Raise the presser foot and cut thread. To restart the same buttonhole at the beginning, raise the presser foot to return to the starting position. Attention: After sewing the buttonholes, raise the buttonhole lever all the...

  • Page 41: Making A Buttonhole On Stretch Fabrics

    Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, hook heavy thread or cord under the button-hole foot. Attach the buttonhole foot and hook the gimp thread onto the back of the presser foot. Bring the two gimp thread ends to the front of the foot and insert them into the grooves, then temporarily tie them there.

  • Page 42: Eyelet Stitch

    Eyelet Stitch Eyelet stitches are used for making belt holes and other similar applications. 5.0 6.0 7.0 Select pattern 21 to get the eyelet stitch. Attach decorate stitch foot (A). Press the " " or "+" stitch width – adjustment to button select the eyelet size.

  • Page 43: Darning Stitch

    Darning stitch Darning a small hole or a tear before it becomes larger can save a garment. Choose a fine 3.5~7.0 1.0~2.0 thread in a color as color as close to your garment possible. Select pattern 22 to get the darning stitch.
  • Page 44 Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot lever. Note: When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.

  • Page 45: Zipper Insertion

    Zipper insertion This foot can be set to sew on each side of the zipper, the The edge of the foot guides the 1.5~3.0 zipper to ensure straight placement. Attention: Zipper foot should be used for sewing width center needle position straight stitch only.

  • Page 46: Inserting A Side Zipper

    Inserting a side zipper - Place the right sides of the fabric together. Sew a bottom Reverse seam 2cm from the right edge stitches to the zipper bottom stop position. Sew a few stitches in Basting reverse to lock. Increase the stitching stitch length to maximum, set the tension below 2, and...

  • Page 47: Narrow Hemming

    Narrow hemming rolled hemming foot used to stitch the narrow rolled hems usually found on shirt 1.5~3.0 tails, table linens and along the edge of frills. * The rolled hemming foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Fold edge of fabric over about 3mm (1/8 inch), then fold it over again 3mm (1/8 inch) for about...

  • Page 48: Cording

    Cording Used for embellishing 1 to 3 cords or decorative threads. Sew over one strand of cording to create a pretty swirled design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of cording for border trims. Pearl cotton, knitting yarn, embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording.

  • Page 49: Satin Stitch Sewing

    Satin stitch sewing Use the decorate stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches. This foot 3.5~7.0 0.5~1.0 has a full indentation on the underside to allowed easy sewing over the thickness of the stitches form by closely spaced zigzag stitches, and even feeding of the fabric.

  • Page 50: Scalloping

    Scalloping The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects. Scallop hem Fold the fabric, right sides together. Sew along the folded edge, as illustrated. Cut the fabric along the seam leaving an allowance of 3mm Reverse side...

  • Page 51: Gathering

    Gathering The Gathering Foot is used for gathering fabrics. Ideal for clothing as well as home decor, works best on thin to medium weight fabrics. * The Gathering foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Gathered fabric Remove the presser foot holder and attach the gathering foot, lowering the tension setting to...

  • Page 52: Smocking

    Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. Use the standard presser foot to sew basting lines 1cm (3/8 inch) apart, across the area to Basting be smocked.

  • Page 53: Free Motion Darning, Embroidery And Monogramming

    Free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming 3.5~5.0 * The accessory is Quilt foot optional. It is not included with this machine. Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs. Remove the presser foot holder, and attach the quilt foot to the presser foot holder bar.

  • Page 54: Embroidery

    Embroidery Select zigzag stitch pattern and adjust the stitch width as desired. Stitch along the outline of the design by moving the embroidery hoop. Make sure to maintain a constant speed. Fill in the design working from the outline towards the inside. Keep the stitches close together.

  • Page 55: Fagoting

    Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. - Separate the folded edges of the fabric pieces with a gap of 4mm (1/8 inch) and baste them onto a piece of thin paper or water-soluble...

  • Page 56: Twin Needle

    Twin needle * The twin needle is optional. It is not include with the accessories. 2.0~5.0 Insert the twin needle. Attention: When using twin needles, use the standard presser foot regardless of what kind of sewing foot will be carried out. Use only twin needle assemblies with max.

  • Page 57: Walking Foot

    Walking foot * The walking foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Always try to sew first without the walking foot accessory which should be used only when necessary. It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard, regular foot on your machine.

  • Page 58: Warning Functions

    Warning functions Warning beeping sound - When operating correctly : 1 beep - When operating incorrectly : 3-short beeps - When the sewing machine is in trouble and can't sew : 3-short beeps It means that the thread is twisted or jammed and the hand wheel axle can't move.

  • Page 59: Maintenance

    Maintenance Attention: Disconnect the power cord from the wall socket before cleaning the screen and sewing machine surface, otherwise injury or electrical shock may result. Cleaning the screen If the front panel is dirty, wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth. Do not use any organic solvents or detergents.

  • Page 60: Cleaning The Hook

    Cleaning the hook If lint and bits of thread accumulate in the hook, this will interfere with the smooth operation of the machine. Check regularly and clean the stitching mechanism when necessary. Attention: Disconnect the machine from the wall outlet before carrying out any maintenance.

  • Page 61: Trouble Shooting Guide

    Trouble shooting guide Before calling for service, check the following items. If the problem still persists, contact the place of purchase or your nearest authorized dealer. Problem Cause Correction Reference Upper thread 1. Rethread the machine. 1. The machine is not threaded correctly. breaks 2.
  • Page 62 Problem Cause Correction Reference Seam 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. 1. Lossen the thread tension. puckering 2. The needle thread is not threaded 2. Rethread the machine. correctly. 3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric 3.
  • Page 64 2-11-1, Tsurumaki, Tama-shi, Tokyo 206-8551, JAPAN PHONE : (81)42-357-2341 FAX : (81)42-357-2379 Copyright © 2015 JUKI CORPORATION. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reservados todos los derechos en todo el mundo. Tous les droits sont réservés à travers le monde.

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