JUKI HZL-80 series Instruction Manual
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HZL-80 Series
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Please read this instruction manual before using
the machine as it contains important operational
and safety information.
Attention
Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer
to it at anytime while operating the machine.

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  • Page 1 HZL-80 Series INSTRUCTION MANUAL Please read this instruction manual before using the machine as it contains important operational and safety information. Attention Keep this manual accessible so that you may refer to it at anytime while operating the machine.
  • Page 3 “ IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ” When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. “DANGER ____ To reduce the risk of electric shock:” 1. The appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. 2.
  • Page 4 10. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, when lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 12. Do not use outdoors. 13.
  • Page 5 "SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS" "This sewing machine is intended for household use only." Congratulations on your purchase of a JUKI sewing machine. Please be sure to read safety precautions in "To use the sewing machine safely" in the Instruction Manual before use to fully understand the functions and operating procedures of the sewing machine so as to use the sewing machine for a long time.
  • Page 6 WARNING For the combination of the material and the thread and needle, in particular, refer to the explanation table in "Replacement of the needle". If the needle or thread does not match the material used such as in the case that an extra heavyweight material (e.g., denim) is sewn with a thin needle (#11 or higher), the needle can break resulting in an unexpected personal injury.
  • Page 7: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS GETTING READY TO SEW Principal parts of the machine ............10 Sewing table .
  • Page 8 Free arm ............... 34 Sewing on the heavy fabric.
  • Page 9 APPENDIX Warning functions ..............66 Instruction message display .
  • Page 10: Principal Parts Of The Machine

    Principal parts of the machine 1. Speed limiting adjustment lever 2. Needle up/down position button 3. Auto-lock button 4. Reverse button Start/stop button Thread cutter Buttonhole lever 8. Auto needle threader 9. Bobbin cover plate 10. Sewing table and accessory 11.
  • Page 11: Sewing Table

    Sewing table Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and pull it in the direction of the arrow. The inside of the snap-in sewing table is used as an accessory box. Accessories Standard Standard presser foot 2. Zipper foot (I) 3. Buttonhole foot (D) 4.
  • Page 12: Type Of Presser Foot Chart

    Type of presser foot chart PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION NEEDLE PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION NEEDLE General sewing, Cording Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Standard Presser Cording foot (M) Fagoting, etc. foot (T) (Optional) Inserting zippers Narrow hemming Zipper foot (I) Rolled hemming foot (K)(Optional) Buttonhole sewing Darning...
  • Page 13: Connecting The Machine

    Connecting the machine Before connecting the power supply, make sure that the voltage and frequency shown on the rating plate is conforming with your mains power. Place the machine on a stable table. 1. Connect the power cord to the machine by inserting the 2-hole plug into the mains plug socket.
  • Page 14: Winding The Bobbin

    Winding the bobbin 1. Place the thread and spool cap onto the spool pin. For smaller spools of thread, place spool cap with the small side next to the spool or use the small spool cap. 2. Snap the thread into the thread guide.
  • Page 15: Inserting The Bobbin

    Inserting the bobbin Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") before inserting or removing the bobbin. When inserting or removing the bobbin, the needle and presser foot must be fully raised. Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread running in a counterclockwise direction (arrow).
  • Page 16: Threading The Upper Thread

    Threading the upper thread Note: It is important to carry out the threading correctly as by not doing so several sewing problems could result. Start by raising the needle to its highest point, and also raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.
  • Page 17: Using The Needle Threader

    Using the needle threader Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot. Attention: Turn power switch to the off position ("O"). Lower the needle threader lever slowly and draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.
  • Page 18: Raising Up The Lower Thread

    Raising up the lower thread 1. Hold the upper thread with the left hand. Turn the handwheel towards you (counterclockwise) lowering, then raising the needle. 2. Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle plate hole.
  • Page 19: Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

    Adjusting presser foot pressure Standard presser foot pressure set at "2". The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and no need for change unless sewing particular type of fabric (light-or-heavy weight). If you do need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw by ones finger.
  • Page 20: Replacing The Needle

    Replacing the needle Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the above operations! Change the needle regularly, especially if it is showing signs of wear and causing problems. Insert the needle following the illustrated instructions. A.
  • Page 21: Changing The Presser Foot

    Changing the presser foot Attention: Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the above operations! Removing the presser foot (1) Raise the presser foot. Press the black lever (e) and the foot will disengages. Attaching the presser foot (2) Lower the presser foot holder (b) until the cut-out (c) is directly above the pin (d).
  • Page 22: Two-Step Presser Foot Lifter

    Two-step presser foot lifter The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot. When sewing several layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot can be raised a second stage for easy positioning of the work. To raise or drop the feed dogs With the sewing table off the machine, the feed dog...
  • Page 23: Matching Needle/ Fabric/ Thread

    Matching needle/ fabric/ thread Needle, fabric, thread selection guide NEEDLE SIZE FABRICS THREAD Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon, 9-11 (70-80) Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, cotton knits, polyester or cotton wrapped polyester. tricot, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt &...
  • Page 24: Lcd Screen

    LCD screen Direct Pattern mode 1. Needle up 2. Auto-lock 3. Reverse 4. Pattern number 5. Direct mode 6. Suggested presser foot 7. Mirror 8. Buttonhole lever 9. Bobbin winding 10.Needle position 11. Stitch width 12.Stitch length Pattern I mode 1.
  • Page 25: Buttons Of The Machine

    Buttons of the machine 1. Start/stop button 2. Reverse button 3. Auto-lock/ Stop button 4. Needle up/ down position button 5. Speed limiting adjustment lever 6. Stitch length adjustment button 7. Stitch width adjustment button 8. Memory button 9. Arrow button 10.Clear button 11.
  • Page 26: Reverse Button

    Reverse button When the Direct Patterns 1-5 and Patterns 00-05 are selected. Reverse is pressed to sew in reverse. An arrow " " will be shown in the LCD when the function is active. If you press and hold the Reverse button the machine will sew backwards until you release the button.
  • Page 27: Needle Up/ Down Position Button

    Needle up/ down position button With the Needle up/ down position button, you decide whether the needle shall stop in the up position or in the material when you stop sewing. Press the button so that the arrow, on the LCD screen, will point upward "...
  • Page 28: Memory Buttons

    Memory buttons Memory button Press the " " button to enter the memory mode, and store the combinations of characters or decorative stitches. Press the " " button again to leave the memory mode and return Direct mode. Note: The Direct mode patterns and Patterns I 15- 24 can not be...
  • Page 29: Function Buttons

    Function buttons Stitch width adjustment button When you select a stitch, the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch width, which will be indicated by numbers on the LCD screen. The stitch width can be regulated by pressing the stitch width adjustment buttons.
  • Page 30: Mode Selection Button

    Mode selection button When you turn the machine "ON" the LCD screen display will be set at direct mode " ". Press the " " button to " " mode, if you press the function button again, " " will be displayed. After a third press, "...
  • Page 31: Selection Buttons

    Selection buttons Direct pattern selection buttons Press the buttons to select the utility patterns shown beside the number button when the mode button is set at the Direct mode. Number buttons Press the number buttons for selecting the pattern needed. Except the Direct pattern mode, the other mode can be selected by pressing the desired...
  • Page 32: Pattern Chart

    Pattern chart The portion marked in colored on the chart below shows the one unit of each pattern. Direct Patterns Utility and decorative patterns 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77...
  • Page 33: Thread Tension

    Thread tension - Basic thread tension setting: "4" - To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up. To reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down. - Proper setting of tension is important to good sewing. - For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch and less fabric...
  • Page 34: Useful Skills

    Useful skills Sewing corners 1. Stop the sewing machine when you reach a corner. 2. Lower the needle into the fabric manually or by pressing the needle up/ down button once. 3. Raise the presser foot. 4. Use the needle as a pivot and turn the fabric.
  • Page 35: Sewing On The Heavy Fabric

    Sewing on heavy fabrics The black button on the right side of the presser foot will lock the presser foot in a horizontal position if you push it in before lowering the presser foot. This ensures even feeding at the beginning of a seam and helps when sewing multiple layers of fabric such as sewing over...
  • Page 36: Straight Stitches And Needle Position

    Straight stitches and needle position Changing the needle position These setting apply only to patterns 00-04. The pre-set position is "3.5", center position. When you press the "–" stitch width adjustment button, the needle position will move to the left. When you press the "+" stitch width adjustment button, the needle position will move to the right.
  • Page 37: Stretch Stitch

    Stretch stitches Use this stitch with knitted, tricot or other stretchy fabrics. The stitch enables your seam to stretch without breaking the thread. Straight stretch stitch Good for easy to ravel and knit fabrics. It is good for joining durable fabric such as denims. These stitches can also be used as a decorative top stitch.
  • Page 38: Overcasting Stitches

    Overcasting stitches Sewing overcasting stitches along the edges of fabric to prevent them from fraying. 5.0~7.0 2.0~3.0 Using the overcasting foot Change the presser foot to the overcasting foot (E). Sew the fabric with the fabric edge against the guide of the overcasting foot.
  • Page 39: Blind Hem/ Lingerie Stitch

    Blind hem/ Lingerie stitch Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem, this 2.5~4.0 1.0~2.0 stitch will sew without stitches showing on right side of fabric. 10: Blind hem/lingerie for firm fabrics 11: Blind hem for stretch fabrics Note: It takes practice to sew blind hems.
  • Page 40: Button Sewing

    Button sewing Change the presser foot to the button sewing foot. 2.5~4.5 Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs. Position the work under the foot. Place the button in the desired position, lower the foot. Select zig zag pattern.
  • Page 41: Buttonhole Stitching

    Buttonhole stitching Buttonhole sewing to match the size of the button is possible. For stretch fabric or thin fabric, 3.0~7.0 0.3~1.0 it is recommended to use a stabilizer for a better buttonhole finish. For thin or medium fabric 3.0~5.5 0.3~1.0 For horizontal holes on blouses or shirts made from thin or medium fabric...
  • Page 42 Select the buttonhole stitch. Adjust the stitch width and the stitch length to the desired width and density. Position the fabric under the presser foot with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the center line on the buttonhole foot.
  • Page 43 Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown. Raise the presser foot and cut thread. To restart the same buttonhole at the beginning, raise the presser foot to return to the starting position. Attention: After sewing the buttonholes, raise the buttonhole lever all the...
  • Page 44: Making A Buttonhole On Stretch Fabrics

    Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, hook heavy thread or cord under the button-hole foot. Attach the buttonhole foot and hook the gimp thread onto the back of the presser foot. Bring the two gimp thread ends to the front of the foot and insert them into the grooves, then temporarily tie them there.
  • Page 45: Eyelet Stitch

    Eyelet Stitch Eyelet stitches are used for making belt holes and other similar applications. 5.0 6.0 7.0 Select pattern 22 to get the eyelet stitch. Attach decorate stitch foot (A). Press the " " or "+" stitch width – adjustment to button select the eyelet size.
  • Page 46: Darning Stitch

    Darning stitch Darning a small hole or a tear before it becomes larger can save a garment. Choose a fine 3.5~7.0 1.0~2.0 thread in a color as color as close to your garment possible. Select pattern 23 to get the darning stitch.
  • Page 47 Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot lever. Note: When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.
  • Page 48: Bar Tack Stitch

    Bar tack stitch Bar tack stitch is used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and 1.5~3.0 0.5~1.0 openings. Select pattern 24 to get the darning stitch. Chang the presser foot to the buttonhole foot. Pull the button holder to the rear.
  • Page 49: Zipper Insertion

    Zipper insertion This foot can be set to sew on each side of the zipper, the The edge of the foot guides the 1.5~3.0 zipper to ensure straight placement. Attention: Zipper foot should be used for sewing width center needle position straight stitch only.
  • Page 50: Inserting A Side Zipper

    Inserting a side zipper - Place the right sides of the fabric together. Sew a bottom Reverse seam 2cm from the right edge stitches to the zipper bottom stop position. Sew a few stitches in Basting reverse to lock. Increase the stitching stitch length to maximum, set the tension below 2, and...
  • Page 51: Narrow Hemming

    Narrow hemming rolled hemming foot used to stitch the narrow rolled hems usually found on shirt 1.5~3.0 tails, table linens and along the edge of frills. * The rolled hemming foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Fold edge of fabric over about 3mm (1/8 inch), then fold it over again 3mm (1/8 inch) for about...
  • Page 52: Cording

    Cording Used for embellishing 1 to 3 cords or decorative threads. Sew over one strand of cording to create a pretty swirled design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of cording for border trims. Pearl cotton, knitting yarn, embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording.
  • Page 53: Satin Stitch Sewing

    Satin stitch sewing Use the decorate stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches. This foot 3.5~7.0 0.5~1.0 has a full indentation on the underside to allowed easy sewing over the thickness of the stitches form by closely spaced zigzag stitches, and even feeding of the fabric.
  • Page 54: Scalloping

    Scalloping The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects. Scallop hem Fold the fabric, right sides together. Sew along the folded edge, as illustrated. Cut the fabric along the seam leaving an allowance of 3mm Reverse side...
  • Page 55: Gathering

    Gathering The Gathering Foot is used for gathering fabrics. Ideal for clothing as well as home decor, works best on thin to medium weight fabrics. * The Gathering foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Gathered fabric Remove the presser foot holder and attach the gathering foot, lowering the tension setting to...
  • Page 56: Smocking

    Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. Use the standard presser foot to sew basting lines 1cm (3/8 inch) apart, across the area to Basting be smocked.
  • Page 57: Free Motion Darning, Embroidery And Monogramming

    Free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming 3.5~5.0 * The accessory is Quilt foot optional. It is not included with this machine. Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs. Remove the presser foot holder, and attach the darning foot to the presser foot holder bar.
  • Page 58: Embroidery

    Embroidery Select zigzag stitch pattern and adjust the stitch width as desired. Stitch along the outline of the design by moving the embroidery hoop. Make sure to maintain a constant speed. Fill in the design working from the outline towards the inside. Keep the stitches close together.
  • Page 59: Fagoting

    Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. - Separate the folded edges of the fabric pieces with a gap of 4mm (1/8 inch) and baste them onto a piece of thin paper or water-soluble...
  • Page 60: Mirror

    Mirror Select the pattern. Pressing the mirror button. LCD will display the mirror function and the machine will sew the reflected pattern until you press the mirror button again. A. Normal pattern sewing. B. Mirror pattern sewing. Note: Direct Patterns 0,8,9 and Patterns I 15-23 can not be mirror imaged.
  • Page 61: Twin Needle

    Twin needle * The twin needle is optional. It is not include with the accessories. 2.0~5.0 Insert the twin needle. Attention: When using twin needles, use the standard presser foot regardless of what kind of sewing foot will be carried out. Use only twin needle assemblies with max.
  • Page 62: Walking Foot

    Walking foot * The walking foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Always try to sew first without the walking foot accessory which should be used only when necessary. It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard, regular foot on your machine.
  • Page 63: Memory

    Memory Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. This is convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be used often. Note: - The machine has a program memory that can retain 30...
  • Page 64: Adding Patterns Or Letters

    Note: When the memory the full with 30 units of patterns, the machine will beep to signal it. Use the arrow " " or " " button to check what you have programmed. Press the " " button to leave the memory mode and return to the Direct mode.
  • Page 65: Recalling And Sewing The Memorized Pattern

    Recalling and sewing the memorized pattern Press the " " button to enter the memory mode. The machine will be positioned at the first programmed stitch. Press on the foot control or press the start/stop button to start the sewing machine. Sewing patterns repeats until you press start /stop button to stop the machine.
  • Page 66: Warning Functions

    Warning functions Instruction message display - Lowering the buttonhole lever When you select any buttonhole pattern or darning pattern, LCD screen will show the figure " ". It is to remind you to lower the buttonhole lever. - Bobbin winding When the bobbin winder spindle is activated for bobbin winding (in the rightmost...
  • Page 67: Maintenance

    Maintenance Attention: Disconnect the power cord from the wall socket before cleaning the screen and sewing machine surface, otherwise injury or electrical shock may result. Cleaning the screen If the front panel is dirty, wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth. Do not use any organic solvents or detergents.
  • Page 68: Cleaning The Hook

    Cleaning the hook If lint and bits of thread accumulate in the hook, this will interfere with the smooth operation of the machine. Check regularly and clean the stitching mechanism when necessary. Attention: Disconnect the machine from the wall outlet before carrying out any maintenance.
  • Page 69: Trouble Shooting Guide

    Trouble shooting guide Before calling for service, check the following items. If the problem still persists, contact the place of purchase or your nearest authorized dealer. Problem Cause Correction Reference Upper thread 1. Rethread the machine. 1. The machine is not threaded correctly. breaks 2.
  • Page 70 Problem Cause Correction Reference Seam 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. 1. Lossen the thread tension. puckering 2. The needle thread is not threaded 2. Rethread the machine. correctly. 3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric 3.
  • Page 72 2-11-1, Tsurumaki, Tama-shi, Tokyo 206-8551, JAPAN PHONE : (81)42-357-2341 FAX : (81)42-357-2379 Copyright © 2015 JUKI CORPORATION. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reservados todos los derechos en todo el mundo. Tous les droits sont réservés à travers le monde.

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