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Extreme Flight YAK-54 ARF Instruction Manual

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YAK-54 ARF
1.60 Class

Instruction Manual

©Copyright 2006 Extreme Flight RC, Ltd.

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Summary of Contents for Extreme Flight YAK-54 ARF

  • Page 1: Instruction Manual

    YAK-54 ARF 1.60 Class Instruction Manual ©Copyright 2006 Extreme Flight RC, Ltd.
  • Page 2 THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the buyer with a very high quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the buyer, will assemble a flying model.
  • Page 3 FAI catalog of maneuvers and it has the kind of “big plane” presence in the air that will impress the judges. This makes the 1.60 Yak-54 ARF a great candidate for all classes of IMAC competition.
  • Page 4 A few tips to ensure success 1. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship displayed by the builders in our factory. Through hundreds of grueling test flights containing maneuvers that no aircraft should be subjected to, our Yak prototypes have remained rigid and completely airworthy.
  • Page 5 5. Use a high quality epoxy for installing the composite control horns and hinges. We highly recommend the use of Pacer Z-Poxy 30 minute formula. We have used this glue for many years with zero failures. 6. You may want to add a bead of silicone glue (Pacer Zap-A-DAP- A-GOO, etc.) to the intersection of the plastic canopy/hatch and its wood frame for additional strength and resistance to vibration.
  • Page 6 Let’s Begin! Elevator Assembly 1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer/elevator assemblies as well as the composite control horns and base pieces from the elevator hardware package. 2. Use a sharp #11 blade to open the 2 slots near the bottom leading edge of the elevator.
  • Page 7 3. Insert the 2 control horns into the base plate as shown in the following picture. 4. Carefully insert the control horns into the slots and push down until the base plate is flush with the control surface. Use a fine tipped felt marker to trace the outline of the base plate onto the covering.
  • Page 8 5. Use some denatured alcohol to remove any residue or oils from the composite control horns and base plate. If you wish to paint the control horns for a more finished appearance now is the time to do so. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy (add a little milled fiberglass if you have it) and fill the 2 slots in the elevator with epoxy.
  • Page 9 7. Remove the covering from the holes for the hinges. We use an old soldering iron for this and it works well. Locate 3 hinges per elevator half.
  • Page 10 8. In this step I will outline the procedure we use to install the hinges. There are several ways to do this and several adhesives you can use. We will describe the way we do it, as this method has proven itself over many years of model building.

  • Page 11: Wing Assembly

    Wing Assembly 11. The assembly process for the wing is almost identical to that of the stab/elevator. For this reason we will not go into quite as much detail as in the previous procedure. Remove the aileron from the wing panel. Locate the 2 slots for the control horns and remove the covering from the slots with a sharp #11 blade.
  • Page 12 13. Attach a 12” servo extension to your servo and secure with thread or heat shrink tubing. Use the manufacturer supplied mounting hardware and install the servo with the output shaft toward the leading edge of the wing.
  • Page 13 14. Electronically center your servo. Aileron servo arm length should be 1.25”. Although the picture below shows a clevis on the servo end of the linkage, we have upgraded the hardware to include 2 ball links. We highly recommend the use of a high quality aluminum servo arm such as those manufactured by SWB or JR.

  • Page 14: Rudder Assembly

    Rudder Assembly 14. Locate the rudder, the rudder control horns and the 2 open slotted base plates. Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the 2 pre-cut slots in the rudder. 15. Trial fit the 2 servo horns through the rudder and into their proper position.
  • Page 15 16. Remove the control horns and use a sharp #11 hobby blade to remove the covering 1/16” inside the lines you drew in the previous step. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and milled fiberglass and use a small blade to fill the 2 slots with epoxy. Use plenty of epoxy and be sure to completely fill the two slots.
  • Page 16 18. Using the same procedure as before, attach the rudder to the rear of the fuselage with the three hinge points.

  • Page 17: Fuselage Assembly

    Fuselage Assembly 19. We’ll begin by assembling the landing gear and attaching it to the fuselage. Open the two holes in the landing gear with a drill to accept the axles. Insert the threaded shaft into the gear and retain with the nylon insert lock nut.
  • Page 18 21. Use a ball driver to insert the bolts through the holes in the aluminum landing gear mounts from inside the fuselage. This is made much easier by slipping a piece of large fuel tubing over the end of the ball driver and over the end of the 8-32 socket head cap bolt.
  • Page 19 21. Locate the carbon fiber tail wheel assembly. Slide the steering rod through the hole in the connector on the bottom of the rudder. Center the assembly on the rear bottom of the fuselage and drill 2 1/16” inch pilot holes, using the predrilled holes in the carbon fiber gear as guides.
  • Page 20 23. You will need to use a 3” servo arm for the rudder pull-pull system. We highly recommend one of the high quality aluminum servo arms from SWB or JR. Assemble the pull-pull components as shown in the picture below at both the rudder horn end and servo end (although the rudder servo arm you provide will probably be a single truss design).

  • Page 22: Engine Installation

    Engine Installation 24. From the front of the airplane, looking at the front of the firewall, measure to determine the center of the firewall. Once you have determined center, measure over 7/32” to the right of center and draw a vertical line at this point. This represents the engine offset to compensate for the right thrust already built into the firewall to overcome spiral slipstream effect.
  • Page 23 26. Mount your chosen engine on the supplied motor mount. The drive washer of your engine should be 6 ½” from the firewall. Use this figure to mount the engine in the proper position on the mounts. Center the mount on the lines you have drawn on the firewall. 27.
  • Page 24 28. Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the 4 cowl mounting block receptacles. Use 30 minute epoxy to attach the hardwood mounting blocks to their respective receptacles.
  • Page 25 29. Assemble the supplied tank and mount to the tank tray using nylon cable ties or Velcro straps. If using a gasoline engine for the Yak you will need to replace the supplied fuel line with Tygon tubing. 30. Because of the wide variety of engines that can be used to power the Yak, there is not a specific place to mount the throttle servo.
  • Page 26 31. Once you have permanently mounted your motor, plumbed your fuel system and secured your throttle servo assembly, glue the motor box top in place with epoxy. 32. Place the canopy/hatch on the fuselage. Slide the cowl over the F1 former and allow it to extend over this former by ¼”.
  • Page 27 33. You will need to cut some holes in the bottom of the cowl to clear the muffler. The photo below shows how we cut our cowl to clear the OS 1.60FX and Slimline Pitts muffler.
  • Page 28 34. We recommend a 3” spinner for the Yak. 35. Slide the carbon fiber stab tube through the fuselage and slide both stab halves onto the tube. Secure with the 6/32 bolts and washers which will thread into the pre-installed blind nuts. MAKE SURE TO PUT A DROP OF BLUE LOCTITE ON EACH SCREW TO PREVENT THEM FROM BACKING OUT!
  • Page 29 36. Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the elevator servo bay on each side of the fuselage. Use the manufacturer supplied mounting hardware to mount the servo as shown. Despite the orientation of the servo in the picture, the servo should be mounted with the output spline toward the front of the plane.
  • Page 30 37. We recommend the use of a 1.5” aluminum servo arm for the elevator servo. Screw a ball link onto each end of the supplied pushrods and secure one end to the servo arm and one between the outer most hole on the elevator control horn. Be sure to use one of the brass standoffs between the ball link and elevator servo arm to prevent binding.
  • Page 31 40. Install your receiver, switch and battery. Use your battery to help achieve proper center of gravity without adding additional weight.

  • Page 32: Control Surface Throws

    Set-up and trimming Besides basic assembly, this is the most important part of preparing your airplane for flight. It can also be the most time consuming, but once your plane is properly dialed in you will agree it was time well spent. A common phone call I get goes like this: “I can’t get my plane to fly right.
  • Page 33 small amount of coupling. Full rudder rate is typically not needed for this maneuver and too much may result in excessive coupling. Experiment with your throws and CG to find the sweet spot. Save full rate rudder for flat spins. And speaking of flat spins, the Yak performs the flattest, slowest descending flat spins I have ever witnessed.