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The Yak-54 can truly be assembled in an evening-buy it one day, fly it the next! As with all Extreme Flight RC airplanes, the proof is in the flying! Due to the close proximity of the wing and stab to the thrust line, the Yak-54 is a very neutral flying aircraft.
Tips for Success 1. Read the instruction manual thoroughly before starting assembly. 2. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship exhibited by the workers in our factory. However, these are mass produced models. As with any ARF, take a few minutes to go over the model and add CA to high stress areas or any joints that appear to need more glue.
Wing assembly 1. Locate a wing panel. Check to see that all hinges are centered between the wing and aileron. Hold the aileron fully deflected and apply a drop of thin CA to each hinge. Flip the wing over and repeat. 2.
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3. Locate the composite aileron control horn, aileron pushrod with z-bend and ez- connector. Remove the covering over the mounting hole for the control horn with your #11 blade. Scuff the part of the control horn that will glue into the aileron slot with fine sandpaper.
4. Repeat this procedure for the other wing. That’s it! You are done with the wings! Fuselage Assembly 1. Lets mount the landing gear first. Locate the aluminum landing gear, (2) 3mm machine screws, (2) 3D Hobbyshop axles, (2) nylon insert lock nuts, (2) wheel collars, (2) wheel spats, (2) wheels and (2) plywood rings.
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2. Insert the threaded end of the 3D Hobbyshop axle through the hole in the wheel spat and landing gear and secure with the nylon insert locknut as illustrated in the photo. 3. Place the wheel on the axle and use the wheel collar to retain the wheel.
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4. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the landing gear slot on the bottom of the fuselage. Use your sealing iron to seal the edges of the covering to the landing gear plate. It is also a good time to remove the covering from the wing slot and seal the edges with your sealing iron.
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6. Locate the motor box. Insert the tabs on the motor box into the slots in the F1 former. 7. Use medium CA to secure the motor box to the F1 former. Make sure to apply CA to all joints on both sides of the F1 former as well as all joints in the motor box.
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8. Use scissors to remove the air scoops from the plastic sheet. 9. Use medium CA to secure the scoops to the side of the motor box as shown in the photo. 10. Locate the horizontal stab. Trial fit the stab into its slot in the rear of the fuselage and use a felt tipped marker to mark where the covering will need to be removed from the horizontal stab.
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11. Re-insert the stab and trial fit the vertical fin into its slot in the rear of the fuselage. Make sure the tab on the bottom of the fin fits into the slot on the stab and that the trailing edge of the fin is flush with the rear of the fuselage. Once satisfied with the fit, use a felt tipped marker to mark the fin where the covering will need to be removed.
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14. Locate the elevator and hinges. Slide the elevator into place, making sure the hinges are centered between the stab and elevators. Deflect the elevators to 45 degrees and place a couple of drops of thin CA on each hinge. Flip the assembly over and do the same for the other side of the hinge.
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16. Locate the 2 carbon fiber rods. Cut and sand a bevel on one end of each rod to match the angle of the horizontal stab. Drill a small hole in the bottom rear of the fuselage to accept the carbon rod. Also remove a small amount of wood at the attachment point on the stab to allow the rod to penetrate the stab surface.
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18. Use a #11 blade to remove the covering from the slot near the bottom of the rudder. Locate the composite control horn for the rudder. Scuff the control horn to remove the glossy finish and glue into place in the slot in the rudder. Be sure to center the horn in the slot.
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20. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the rudder and insert the pre-bent tailwheel wire into place. Use a piece of strapping tape to secure the tailwheel wire to the rudder as shown. Slide the tailwheel onto the wire and retain with the small wheel collar.
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22. Mount the ESC with Velcro or nylon cable ties as shown and plug the bullet connectors into their mating connectors on the motor. Secure the wires with a nylon cable tie to prevent them from touching the rotating case of the motor.
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23. Soak the cowl mounting tabs with thin CA 24. Place the canopy/hatch in place on the fuselage and make sure it is positioned properly. Slide the cowling into place and allow it to extend over the F1 former by one-eighth of an inch. Make sure the prop shaft is centered in the cowl opening.
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26. You may want to close off a portion of the front of the cowl to reduce the amount of airflow getting inside the fuselage and to help direct cooling air into the plastic ducts. We have done this using clear packing tape as shown in the photo. A couple of small pieces of Depron would work as well.
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