Table of Contents
Advertisement
Troubleshooting Procedures
Due to possibility of personal injury or property damage, always contact an authorized technician for servicing or
repair of this unit.
To avoid risk of electrical shock, personal injury or death; disconnect power and shut off gas to unit before servicing,
unless testing requires power.
Will not start or run:
•
All wires are hooked up to their corresponding terminals.
•
Dryer is plugged in.
•
Blown fuse or circuit breaker.
•
Door switch functional...door closed. Check for error code 3
(See Table for code definition).
•
Start/Pause rotary selector dial functional.
•
Control Board operational.
•
Drive motor functional.
•
Check motor winding resistance.
Motor runs/ tumbler will not turn:
•
Belt off or broken/damaged.
•
Idler tension spring too weak or stretched.
•
Idler pulley jammed or stuck.
Runs a few minutes and then stops:
• Empty dryer.
• Check motor spins freely.
•
Lint buildup around drive motor.
•
Low voltage present.
•
Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
•
Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.
Improper drying/clothes wrinkled/ rough texture/long dry
time:
•
Lint filter is not clean.
•
Restriction in exhaust.
•
Outside exhaust hood damper door stuck closed.
•
Exhaust too long, too many elbows, flex ductwork installed.
•
Poor intake air available for the dryer.
•
Incorrect tumbler speed. Tumbler belt slipping.
•
Blower impeller bound; check for foreign material in blower
area.
•
Customer overloading dryer.
•
Check clothing labels for fabric content and cycle selected.
•
Clothes too wet due to insufficient spin out by washer.
Troubleshooting the electronic control circuit:
•
Check for miswiring of the electrical connector at the electronic
control board.
Will Not Shut Off
•
Check dryer heat setting (wet clothes on air fluff will run an
extended period of time).
•
Check Membrane Pad.
•
Check Electronic Control Board.
•
Short in sensor circuit.
•
Ensure timer motor is getting 120V with no load or in cool down.
•
Check thermostat.
Noisy and/Or Vibration
•
Thumping Check for loose tumbler baffle, rear tumbler roller(s)
worn or misaligned, out-of-round tumbler or high weld seam on
tumbler.
•
Ticking Check for loose wire harness or object caught in
blower wheel area.
•
Scraping Check for front or rear bulkhead felt seal out of
position or worn tumbler front bearings.
•
Roaring Check for blower wheel rubbing on blower housing or
bad motor bearings.
•
Popping or squealing sound. Check for a sticky or frayed
belt.
10
!
WARNING
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models:
•
The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps
and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3
amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house
wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect.
•
Shorted heating element to housing.
•
Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
•
Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models:
•
If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter.
•
Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base.
•
Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground.
•
Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
Will Not Dry —ELECTRIC Models
Will not heat (motor runs):
•
Check dryer heat setting.
•
Open heating element.
•
Hi-Limit trips easily or is open.
•
Regulating thermostat trips easily or is open.
•
Check Thermistor.
Will Not Dry —GAS Models
Poor Gas Ignition
When the dryer is operated on a heat setting, the igniter should
be energized and burner shall fire within 45 seconds at 120
VAC. The failure of a component in this system will usually be
indicated by one of three symptoms:
1) The igniter does not glow. If the igniter does not heat up,
remove power and using an ohmmeter, check the following:
•
Open flame sensor.
•
Open igniter.
•
Shorted booster coil.
•
Open wiring.
•
Bad motor switch (Neutral supply).
•
No power from control ( L1 supply).
2) Igniter glows - No gas ignition. If the igniter heats up but
the main burner flame is not ignited, remove power and using an
ohmmeter, check the following:
•
Open secondary coil.
•
Open holding coil.
•
Open wire harness.
•
Stuck flame sensor (Stuck closed).
•
Check:
Holding coil term 1 and 2, 1365 ohms ±25 ohms.
Booster coil term 1 and 3, 560 ohms ±25 ohms.
Secondary coil term 4 and 5, 1220 ohms ±25 ohms.
3) The gas is ignited but the flame goes out. If a normal
ignition takes place and after a short while the flame goes out,
check for the following:
•
Radiant sensor contacts opening prematurely.
•
Weak gas valve coil may open when stressed by higher
temperatures.
•
Weak Hi-Limit.
•
Poor venting.
•
Bad drum seals.
16026315
©2006 Maytag Services
Hide quick links:
Advertisement
Table of Contents
