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Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
AMA Safety Code ............44 TABLE OF CONTENTS General ................44 Radio Control ...............44 FLYING ................44 INTRODUCTION ...............2 Takeoff................44 PRECAUTIONS ..............2 Flight ................45 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........3 Landing ................45 Engine Selection ............3 APPENDIX...............45 Exhaust System .............3 TRIM CHART..............45 PREPARATIONS ...............3 TWO VIEW DRAWING.........BACK COVER Required Accessories ...........3 DIE-CUT PATTERNS .............4,5 Building Supplies and Tools ...........6...
G45. If you prefer a 4-stroke, an O.S. .70 Surpass is the ticket. We hope you enjoy building and flying your Great Planes Your choice of 2-stroke or 4-stroke will determine the Extra 300S as much as we did the prototypes.
Kyosho Curved Scissors for trimming Cowl, Wheel Pants, and Canopy (KYOR1010) Types of Wood In our busy work shop we use the Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders equipped with Great Planes #80, #150 and #220-grit Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper. Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made from lightweight, rigid, extruded aluminum and can be found at most hobby shops.
Building Notes BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES There are two types of screws used in this kit: Make the Stab Leading Edge Doubler Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length. For example #6 x 3/4" You may remove the stabilizer and elevator drawing from the wing plan by cutting along the dotted line.
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5. Make the 1/4" tail ribs from a 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" balsa Note: Refrain from using excessive accelerator. Even hours stick, then glue them in position. You can use the stab bevel after it's sprayed on, residual accelerator can prematurely gauge for two of the ribs and the 2"...
C. Rudder bottom Recommended Elevator D. TE Building Sequence E. 1/8" tail ribs (glue the two “straight” ribs before the diagonal ribs) G. Inspect all the glue joints and add CA where necessary. Shape the bottom of the rudder as shown on the plan. Sand the entire rudder flat and smooth with your bar sander.
Make three or four more cuts going a little deeper each time. As you cut, slide the knife from side to side until the slot has reached the proper depth and width for the hinge. 4. Cut the hinges for the elevators and rudder from the supplied 2"...
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2. Use the same procedure to bevel the leading edge of the rudder. 6. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole into the leading edge of the 3. Cut a notch in the leading edge of the rudder for the elevators. As you drill each hole keep the drill aligned with balance tab.
8. Temporarily join the elevators with the joiner wire. The joiner wire will be easier to install if you chamfer (bevel) the ends a little. If necessary, “tweak” the joiner wire so the elevators are parallel and lay flat on your building table when the joiner wire is installed.
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5. Place a 5/16" x 5/16" x 30" bottom spar in the notches of the ribs. Approximately 1/2" of the bottom spar should extend past the wing centerline. 9. Use medium CA to glue the 3/32" x 7/8" x 30" balsa trailing edge sheeting to the TE and wing ribs so the end extends past the wing centerline by approximately 1/2".
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of the sheet so it matches the leading edge of the wing, then trim the aft edge of the sheet so it “ends” at about the middle of the main spar. B. Use masking tape to tightly tape the two sheets together joining the trimmed edges.
Working quickly, pull the sheeting back toward the main spar as you press it down to the ribs and spar, then glue the aft edge of the sheeting to the main spar with thin CA. Use masking tape, T-pins or weights to hold the sheeting to the ribs until the CA cures.
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TE at the wing centerline as shown on the plan–the bottom of R-1 at the front should align with the bottom spar. Check for proper positioning, then glue the rib in position with thin or medium CA. 2. Use a hobby knife to remove the top jig tabs (the small ones on every rib), then use your bar sander to sand away any remaining jig tab “stubs.”...
9. From the 3/32" x 1/4" x 24" balsa sticks cut cap strips, 15. Fit, then glue the four 1-1/2" x 6" sheets to the aft then use medium CA to glue them to the tops of all the ribs portion of the top and bottom center section of the wing.
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7. Use a razor plane and your bar sander to shape the LE's of the wing as shown on the plan. 3. Position the center TE's on the wing TE with the torque rods installed, then mark the location of the notches on the wing TE.
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torque rod, then cut a groove in the front of the aileron for the torque rod. Use the same 1/8" sharpened brass tube you used for the elevator joiner wire. 15. Test fit the aileron in the wing to make sure the torque rod fits and there is approximately 1/16"...
BUILD THE FUSELAGE Note: All the fuselage parts from step 1 through step 25 are die-cut 1/8" plywood. Assemble the Fuselage Sides 2. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to draw a line across the tab connecting the notches in the front of one of the fuselage sides.
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Drill 5/32" holes for the engine mount bolts at the four engine mount punch marks. Drill 7/32" holes at the fuel line punch marks for the Great Planes 10 oz. fuel tank. If you will be using a fuel tank or engine mount other...
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13. Temporarily remove the firewall, then install the forward fuselage top. Make sure the “R” and “L” on the fuselage top are aligned with right and left fuse sides. Reinstall the firewall. 14. Use medium CA to glue the two die-cut 1/8" birch ply landing gear plates, then without using any glue fit the landing gear plate to landing gear formers A (LGF-A) and B (LGF-B).
slot with the microballoons and epoxy so it can be sanded 23. After the epoxy from the two preceding steps has flush later. Glue the pushrod tubes to the formers with fully cured, remove the tape and rubber bands. Glue the medium CA.
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3. Perform the same procedure for the remaining 3/16" wing root spacer between the other side of the wing and the fuselage. 4. Remove the wing, then tack glue both wing root spacers to the fuselage in the locations you marked with an approximately 1/32"...
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10. Remove the wing from the fuselage and securely glue the DP in position. Using the punch marks in the DP as a guide, drill a 1/4" hole through the DP and only the front wing joiner. Do not drill through the aft wing joiner. 11.
Finish the Bottom of the Fuselage 24. Test fit the belly pan side doublers and the belly pan former (BPF). Glue them in position with medium CA. 1. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood forward fuse bottom in position with the punch marks facing outward. 25.
3. Glue the fuel tank floor in position, then test fit the fuel tank. The tank floor is positioned so that a Great Planes 10 oz. fuel tank with 1/4" foam rubber underneath, will align with the fuel line holes in the firewall.
5. Cut a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet into two 12" long 11. Use medium CA to glue one front deck side stringer pieces. Trim the edge of one of the sheets so it will not meet to each side of the fuselage. Sand the side stringers so the fuselage side but will extend past the bottom stringer they blend the sheeting and fuse sides together as shown when it is bent around the formers and stringers.
9. If you haven't already done so, final sand the fin. Test fit the fin on the stab with the trailing edge of the fin between the fuselage sides. Adjust the length of the fin trailing edge so the base of the fin fully contacts the stab. 3.
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3. Accurately cut the turtle deck sheeting pattern from the fuselage plan. Use the pattern to make two turtle deck sheets from the 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet you set aside during wing construction. 10. Use medium or thick CA to glue the 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 10-3/4"...
Mount the Engine 1. Cut the “spreader bar” from the supplied Great Planes B. Use a torch or a lighter to heat the end of a sharpened wire motor mount, then use a hobby knife to remove any rod and mark the center of the engine mount holes.
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Use this photo for the next three steps. 2. Cut one of the outer pushrod guide tubes left over from the rudder and elevator guide tubes to a length of 7-3/4". Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outside of the tube so the glue will stick.
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13. Mount the aileron servo in the wing, then thread the nylon 6-32 torque rod connectors on the torque rods until 9. Position the control horns on the elevator and rudder they are 3/4" from the wing sheeting. as shown in the sketch and on the plan. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the location of the control horn mounting holes and drill 3/32"...
3. Test fit the wheel pant halves and make adjustments where necessary for the best possible fit. 4. Join two wheel pant halves and carefully spot glue them together in just a few places with thin CA. Start by spot gluing the top, then the front and rear where the two halves just butt together.
9. Most 2-1/2" wheels are made to fit 5/32" axles but the 8-32 screws supplied in this kit for the axles require a larger hole. If the wheel does not roll freely on the 8-32 x 1-1/2" SHCS “axle” enlarge the wheel hub with an 11/64" (#18 for perfection) drill.
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2. Tape the two pieces together, then wick a small amount of thin CA along the seams of the overlapping joints. After the CA has cured remove the tape and make sure you have thoroughly glued the two pieces together by inspecting the glue joints and adding thin CA if necessary.
17. Mount a fueling system. On our prototype we made 12. Remove the cowl, then use medium CA to glue the a mount for the Great Planes Easy Fueler from 1/8" leftover four 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" hardwood cowl mount blocks to the plywood, then securely glued it to the fuse side.
trailing edge of the stab to allow expanded gas to exit while heating the MonoKote film. This procedure keeps the covering from “ballooning” and allows you to securely bond it to the entire stab. The same thing can be done with the elevators, fin and rudder.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS Do not confuse this procedure with "checking the C.G." which will be discussed later in the manual. Join the Control Surfaces Now that the model is covered and nearly completed, this is the time to balance it laterally (side-to-side).
8. Join the rudder to the fin with the hinges and use 30-minute epoxy to simultaneously glue the tail gear wire in TEMPORARY PIN the rudder and the tail gear bearing in the fuse. Do not TO KEEP HINGE glue the nylon bearing to the rudder. Glue the hinges in CENTERED position with thin CA.
8. Route the receiver antenna. On our prototype we 4. Before you permanently glue the canopy to the drilled a small hole in the bottom of the fuse aft of the wing fuselage, securely glue your pilot in place. For the most bolt plate and inserted a piece of rubber tubing to route the security, in addition to glue, screw the base of the pilot to antenna through (fuel tubing or neoprene retractable...
“spinner weight” or gluing lead weights to the firewall. Tail weight may be added by using Great Planes (GPMQ4485) NOTE: The balance and control throws for the Extra 300 “stick-on” lead weights. Later if the balance is O.K., you can have been extensively tested.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer Engine Safety Precautions (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box. NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in The Great Planes Extra 300 is a great flying semi-scale sport the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an...
First, we are assuming that the model has been C.G. balanced Flight according to the manufacturer’s directions. There’s nothing sacred about that spot — frankly, it only reflects the balance point where We recommend that you take it easy with your Extra 300 for a prototype model handled the way the guy who designed it the first several flights, gradually “getting acquainted”...
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Before you make too many dramatic changes, glance at the remainder of the chart and note the myriad combination of things Reprinted in part by Great Planes Model Manufacturing Company, we can do just with the ailerons. Each change you make will affect...
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TRIM FEATURE MANEUVERS OBSERVATIONS CORRECTIONS CONTROL Fly general circles and Try for hands off straight Readjust linkages so that CENTERING random maneuvers. and level flight. Tx trims are centered. CONTROL Random maneuvers A. Too sensitive, jerky If A, change linkages to THROWS controls.