E-Wheels EW-46 Service & Repair Manual

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EW-46

Service & Repair Manual

Table of Contents

Summary of Contents for E-Wheels EW-46

Page 1 EW-46 Service & Repair Manual...
Page 2: Table Of Contents
www.ewheelsdealers.com (888) 571-2845 - Service Table of Contents (888) 305-0881 - Sales (888) 571-2845 Service Contents Customer Diagnosis ....................... 2 Complete Loss of Power: ........................2 Loss of Throttle Response: ......................3 Section 2 – Technician Diagnosis Guide .................. 4 All Possible Tools Needed: ......................4 Complete Loss of Throttle Response: ..................5 Checking Connections .........................5 Testing the Throttle: ..........................
Page 3: Loss Of Throttle Response
2.) The only feature of the EW-46 that can cut off power to the motor is the brake sensors that are within the brake handles. To check the brake sensors, pull the brake handle while looking at the taillights with the scooter’s power turned on.
Page 4: Section 2 - Technician Diagnosis Guide
Section 2 – Technical Diagnosis Guide All Possible Tools Needed 1.) Metric wrench set 2.) Metric socket wrench set 3.) Metric hex wrench set 4.) Phillips head screwdriver set (#1, #2, #3) 5.) Multimeter or voltage tester 6.) Floor jack (optional, not needed) 7.) Solder pen and solder 8.) Shrink wrap tubing 9.) Zip ties (any length or color)
Page 5: Complete Loss Of Throttle Response
Throttle Power loss/ Throttle Testing: Checking Connections Start by checking all connections on both ends of the wire harness, focusing specifically on the three-wire throttle connector and motor wires. Make sure no pins are pulling out of the backside of any connectors, and that the pins on the female side of connectors are not folded over to the side of the connectors.
Page 6: Testing The Throttle
Testing the Throttle: The throttle responds via a hall effect positioning sensor. The sensor increases its output voltage the more the throttle is pulled. To test this sensor, start by turning the scooter on. Next, set your multimeter to DC 20 volts (or closest setting). While leaving the scooter powered on, and ensuring the throttle to harness, harness to controller, and controller to motor connections are plugged in, insert the multimeter red lead into the throttle connections red wire, and the black multimeter lead into the throttle connections black wire.
Page 7: Testing The Rheostat (Speed Knob/Potentiometer)
Testing the Rheostat (Speed Knob/Potentiometer): To test that the rheostat (speed knob/potentiometer) is working properly, you can disconnect it from its wire harness connection, and try to see if a throttle response returns. This removes all the limitation and ohm resistance from the positioning sensor in the throttle. The rheostat can also be tested with a multimeter.
Page 8: Testing The Wire Harness
Testing the Wire Harness: To test that the wire harness is working properly, visually inspecting and running continuity checks will be necessary. Touch your leads together to see if your specific multimeter beeps when there is continuity. If your leads are long enough, you can run test of both ends of each wire on the wire harness. If your leads are not long enough to reach both ends of the harness, you can find something conductive to cross the pins of two wires in a connector that are located right by each other (screwdriver tip, paperclip, or any other conductive...
Page 9: Testing The Controller
Testing the Controller: To test that the controller is working properly, checking the output voltage for the throttles positioning sensor will be necessary. Leave the scooter power turned on while testing, but Do Not cross the throttle wires or a short may occur which can cause damage, personal injury, or death.
Page 10 Next, check that the controller is supplying the motor Hall Effect sensors with the proper voltage, which is approximately 4.95-5 volts. Leave the scooter powered on and the connector connected. This reading should be obtained at the black and red, yellow and green, and green and blue sensors wires while not under load.
Page 11: Testing The Motor
Testing the Motor Start by testing the resistance at the motor phase lines using all color combinations. If your meter displays any resistance levels other than infinite/zero, then the motor needs to be replaced. Next, check that the Hall Effect positioning sensor’s voltage is decreasing when the wheel is being rotated.
Page 12: Intermittent Or Random Loss Of Throttle Issue
Intermittent or Random Loss of Throttle Issue The scooter could be intermittently driving, or not consistently accelerating for three different reasons. It could be a loose connection, a tension issue in the brake handle, or an issue with the batteries under load.
Page 13 Battery Load Issue If the scooter is fully charged, but the battery charge indicator dips from high down to low when the throttle is pulled, this indicates there is an issue with the batteries. Testing the voltage of the batteries may indicate if the batteries are charged or not but, does not indicate if there is an issue with the batteries.
Page 14 Testing the Charging System To test the charging system, a multimeter or voltage tester will be required. If the scooter is not recharging properly, testing the output voltage of the charger, and voltage at the charger port, will help narrow down the issue may be. 1.
Page 15 Testing the Charger Port If the charger is emitting the proper voltage, the next item to test is voltage at the charger port. Set the multimeter to DC 200 volts, or closest setting higher than 200 volts, and use the two parallel prongs to obtain a voltage reading from the two parallel charger port prongs as shown in the photo below.
Page 16: Section 3- Upkeep And Maintenance
Section 3- Upkeep and Maintenance Daily Checks Before Riding 1. Charge Level Make sure there is enough charge in the batteries to complete the distance you intend to travel. If you are going to be traveling more than half the rated capable mileage, a full charge is recommended.
Page 17 Brake Tension Continued- Increasing tension in the brake lines will eliminate this issue. The right-hand brake controls the front brake. The left-hand brake controls the back brakes. Tighten the adjustment nut on the effected handle to eliminate the issue. 3. Tire Pressure Visually inspect the tires on all three wheels to make sure they all have ample tire pressure.
Page 18 If tires or wheels need to be replaced, please contact EWheels directly for a replacement. Monthly Checks It is recommended monthly to check that the rear axle securing nuts, front axle bolt, seat bolts, headset bolt, transaxle to swing arm bolts, and the motor to axle bolts.
Page 19 You will be using a 10 mm allene wrench and a 19 mm socket wrench to loosen the nut to take the axle bolt off. The seat is securing by two bolts, and the seat latch. The seat bolts are a 5mm hex head bolt on the bolt side, and 10mm on...
Page 20 the nut side. Avoid overtightening or the seat will not be able to be lifted easily. The headset bolt is a 13mm. Turn the handlebars to either side to be able to gain access to the nut side. There are two transaxles to swing arm bolts on each side of the scooter.
Page 21 ½ quart. Section 4- Body Panel Removal and Disassembly There is a total of eight removable painted body panels on the EW-46. Removing paneling may be required for gaining access to different parts of the scooter for normal maintenance or diagnosing...
Page 22 Headset panel, Headlight Shroud Removal Start by removing the mirrors. You will also need to remove all screws along the (Headlight Shroud). You need to also remove the front big screw as shown in photo’s below. There will be 2 more next to the (Headset Shroud).
Page 24 Removing Floor Board There will be Philip screws on the front and back side of the running board. There is also bolts that are a 10mm socket or screw driver (Philips head) Remove the 4 bolts on the floor board where your feet go and the side screws as well.
Page 25 Front Wheel Fender’s On each front fender there is going to be a total of 3 bolts that use a 10mm socket and rachet or a 10mm wrench. Once they are removed the plastic-colored fender will come off. Main Body Shroud To remove the main body shroud, power to the machine must be turned off via the circuit breaker, and the seat and storage box underneath the seat need to be dismounted or unplugged.
Page 26 You’re going to want to remove both wires going to the circuit breaker before removing the storage box. Once complete you will remove the storage box, this is what you will see. Remove the cable that goes to the truck lock. You’re going to want to pull up in the meal/plastic part and remove the end of the cable.
Page 27 You’re going to also want to remove the 2 philip screws in the front just below the charger port as well as the rear bolts that look to hold the rear bumper. The next step would be to remove the connectors that go to both taillight fob.
Page 28 Back Bumper (Attached to Main Body Shroud) Remove all screw that attach the bumper to the body shroud on the inside. Keep in mind that there are going to be screws that go along the inside of the bumper. Remove all four screw to remove the taillight assembly as well.
Page 29 Section 5 – Maintenance Part Diagram Wear and Tear Item Replacement (Tires, Brake Pads, Bulbs, Batteries, Back and Front Shocks, Axels, Motor and Throttle) Tires - The tires may need to be replaced every 6 months - 3 years, depending on usage. The back wheels are secured by a single wheel securing nut located in the middle of the wheel.
Page 30 Brake Pads - The brake pads may need to be replaced every 6 months - 3 years, depending on usage. To replace the brake pads, remove the front and back tire. The brake pads are held onto the axle's brake pad catch, and to the actuating brake tension arm with spring tension.
Page 31 Front Running Lights With the EW-46 there are not going to be bulbs that can be replaced on this unit. When replacing the headlight fob on this unit you will need to remove the front shroud. There is going to be a total of 6 philip screws to remove the headlight fob.
Page 32 Current Model - The batteries are now wired in a positive to negative series. There is one wire harness wire that connects the first batteries positive. From there, the batteries are wired with two-sided terminal wires that connect battery number one's remaining positive, to battery number two's negative.
Page 33 Transaxle, Motor, or Axle Replacement Transaxle - The transaxle refers to the entire motor, differential, axle assembly. The motor and axles can be replaced separately. Follow both the motor, and axle replacement guide for full transaxle replacement. Motor - To remove the motor, you must first start by removing both rear wheels.
Page 34 Controller Phase Wire Disconnect Once the transaxle has been dropped from the swing arms, the next step is to disconnect the motor wires. The three heavier gauge motor phase wires will be connected to the controller unit in a yellow junction box.
Page 35 Wire Harness and Brake Cable Replacement Wire Harness - The wire harness runs the length of the machine, from front to back. Replacing the wire will require removing the seat, storage box underneath the seat, main body shroud, headlight body panel, and front sliding plate.
Page 36 adjuster with securing washer to the point where the adjuster and washers cut outs match up with the cut out for the brake handle. Once lined up, pull the brake cables housing away from the handle until the cable and cable housing can be slid out from the handles housing.
Page 37 Removal or Swapping of Voltage Regulator - Removing the main body shroud is going to be necessary for this. It’s going to be in the back and have 1 bolt and 1 connector keeping it in place, remove those and its out. Please see the photo below for a visual.
Page 38 Security Alarm System – The alarm system plugs directly into the controller via two connectors. When replacing, separate the original alarm system connectors, dismount, and install the replacement using the same controller connectors. There is a 8mm nut and Philips Seat Latch and Seat Latch Cable Replacement Seat Latch Cable –...
Page 39 Charger Port Replacement Charger Port Replacement – To replace the charger port you’re going to need a Philip screwdriver and an 8mm wrench. Make sure to disconnect the connecter as well. Ignition Replacement – Once the front big headlight shroud is removed you can now access the ignition to get it replaced.
Page 40 Speedometer, Throttle and Brake Handle Replacement Speedometer Replacement – To replace the speedometer, start by removing the headlight shroud. Once removed, separate the original speedometers electrical connector and take out the three securing screws that mount the speedometer to the front tiller guard. Save the original speedometer’s dash bulbs to save for future replacements.
Page 41 Front Bumper Guard Removal – You will need a 10mm socket and rachet. You will need to remove the top and bottom bolt to take this off. Left Brake Handle Replacement - To replace the left brake handle, start by removing the headlight shroud. Once removed, take of the securing nut and bolt.
Page 42 Button Replacement Button Replacement – To replace the high/low beam, turn signal, forward/reverse, or horn button, start by removing the headlight shroud. Once removed, locate the button you intend to replace, and separate the electrical connector. Then, dismount the original button by depressing the push clamps on each side of the button.
Page 43 Seat Backrest, Seat Bottom, Arm Rest, and Basket Replacement Seat Backrest Replacement – To replace the backrest you are going to want to remove the x4 (5mm) allen wrench bolts as shown below. The plastic mechanism covers will need to be removed to get the x2 (6MM) Allen bolts of each arm rest.
Page 44 Bottom Rest Replacement To replace the bottom portion of the seat, start by removing both seat mechanism covers with a Phillips screwdriver. There are going to be 2 philip screws that hold the seat mechanism cover on as shown with the arrows below.
Page 45 (The back rest will the come off once all bolts are removed on each side in above photo ) Remove all 4 bolts using a 13mm socket with a rachet. Be careful as there are 4 spacers as well that will Arm Rest Replacement –...
Page 46 Black Tiller Guard Removal First - Remove the headlight first with a Phillips screwdriver as shown in photos. Then there will be a total of 3 screws to be removed for this shroud to be removed, 2 of then on the inside and 1 on the ( Update Photos and Description ) outside of it as well.

E-Wheels EW-46 Service & Repair Manual

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Summary of Contents for E-Wheels EW-46

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