KNOVA KN M-2509RC Manual page 24

OPERATION
CUTTING GROOVES (FIG. OO)
WARNING
DO NOT USE A DADO BLADE, use only
the standard 10 in. diameter saw blade for this
operation.
1. Mark lines identifying the width and depth of the desired
cut on the workpiece and position on the table so the
outside tip of the blade is positioned on the inside edge
of the line. Use a clamp to secure the workpiece beside
the blade.
2. Lower the cutting head to the depth marked on the
workpiece, holding the upper arm, and adjust the stop
knob (1) until it touches the stop plate (2). (SEE "Setting
the cutting depth" on page 15).
3. Cut two parallel grooves as shown.
1
AUXILIARY WOOD FENCE (FIG. PP)
When making multiple or repetitive cuts that result in cut-off
pieces of one inch or less, it is possible for the saw blade to
catch the cut-off piece and throw it out of the saw or into the
blade guard and housing, possibly causing damage or injury.
To minimize this, an auxiliary wood fence can be mounted to
your saw.
Holes are provided in the saw fence to attach an auxiliary
wood fence. This fence is to be constructed of straight wood
approximately 3/4 in. thick by 2-1/2 in. high by 22 in. long.
Attach the wood fence securely and make a full depth cut to
make a blade slot.
Check for interference between the wood fence and the lower
blade guard. Adjust if necessary.
NOTE: This auxiliary
fence is used only
with the saw blade in
the 0° bevel position
(90° to the table).
The auxiliary wood
fence must be
removed when
bevel cutting.
Fig. PP
Cut these grooves
with saw
Use a chisel to cut
out the middle
2
Fig. OO
Blade slot
CUTTING BASE MOLDING (FIG. QQ)
Base moldings and many other moldings can be cut on a
compound miter saw. The setup of the saw depends on
molding characteristics and application, as shown. Perform
practice cuts on scrap material to achieve best results:
1. Always make sure moldings rest firmly against fence and
table. Use hold-down, crown molding vice or C-clamps,
whenever possible, and place tape on the area being
clamped to avoid marks.
2. Reduce splintering by taping the cut area prior to making
the cut. Mark the cut line directly on the tape.
3. Splintering typically happens due to an incorrect blade
application and thinness of the material.
F
e
Workpiece
n
c
e
Miter saw table
Miter at 45°, bevel at 0°
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING (FIG. RR, SS)
Your compound miter saw is suited for the difficult task of
cutting crown molding. To fit properly, crown molding must be
compound-mitered with extreme accuracy. The two surfaces
on a piece of crown molding that fit flat against the ceiling and
wall are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly
90°.
Most crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that
fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle
(the section that fits flat against the wall) of 38°.
In order to accurately cut crown molding for a 90° inside or
outside corner, lay the molding with its broad back surface
flat on the saw table.
When setting the bevel
and miter angles for
compound miters,
remember that the
settings are
interdependent;
changing one changes
the other, as well.
Bevel/Miter Settings
Settings for standard crown molding lying flat on compound
miter saw table
Inside corner
Fig. SS
23
F
e
Workpiece
n
c
e
Miter saw table
Miter at 0°, bevel at 45°
F
e
Workpiece
n
c
e
Miter saw table
OR
OL
IR
IL
Outside corner
Compound cut crown moldings
Fig. QQ
Fig. RR