Bernina L860 User Manual
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Bernina L860 User Manual

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BERNINA L 860
User Manual

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  • Page 1 BERNINA L 860 User Manual...
  • Page 3 Congratulations on the purchase of your BERNINA Overlocker! With BERNINA, you have selected a product that will impress you for years to come. For our family has made customer satisfaction our number one priority for more than 100 years. It is my personal goal to offer you Swiss innovation and precision at the highest level of perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and comprehensive customer service.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    Adjusting the needle stop up/down ......49 Machine covers ............50 BERNINA quality control ......... 11 Open/close the Threader Cover ........50 Welcome to the world of BERNINA ......11 Open/close the looper cover ......... 51 Machine overview ..........13 Handwheel ............. 51 Overview - Front ............
  • Page 5 Cleaning the looper area ..........113 Preparing for threading .......... 86 Cleaning the air threader pipes ........114 One-step BERNINA air threader ......87 Cleaning the screen ............. 114 Performing a pulse drive ..........Cleaning the suction feet  ..........114 Threading the looper threads UL/blue, LL/red ....

  • Page 6: Important Safety Instructions

    • If the machine is damaged or does not work properly, have the machine checked or repaired by your local authorized BERNINA dealer. • Keep all ventilation openings of the machine and the foot control free of lint, dust and loose cloth.
  • Page 7 Important safety instructions • This machine is double-insulated (except for USA, Canada and Japan). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing of double- insulated products. • To lubricate the machine, only use the supplied overlocker oil. Safety instructions •...
  • Page 8 Do not look directly into the LED lamp with optical instruments (e. g. magnifying glass). • If the LED lamp is damaged or defective, have the LED lamp checked or repaired at your local authorized BERNINA dealer. • Switch off the machine before working in the needle area. •...

  • Page 9: Important Information

    • The latest version of the instruction manual can be downloaded at www.bernina.com Proper use Your BERNINA machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper.
  • Page 10 Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. CAUTION Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. NOTICE You will find tips from BERNINA sewing experts next to this symbol.

  • Page 11: My Bernina Overlocker

    1.3 Welcome to the world of BERNINA Made to create, this is the slogan of BERNINA. Not only with our machines do we support you in the implementation of your ideas. In addition to the offers listed below, we offer you lots of suggestions and instructions for your future projects as well as the opportunity to exchange ideas with other sewing, quilting and embroidery enthusiasts.
  • Page 12 Subtle instructions, free sewing patterns and embroidery motifs as well as many new ideas: All this you can find in the weekly blog of BERNINA. Our experts give useful tips and explain step by step how you can achieve the desired result. In the community you can upload your own projects and exchange experiences and ideas with other sewing and embroidering enthusiasts.

  • Page 13: Machine Overview

    My BERNINA overlocker 1.4 Machine overview Overview - Front Knife on/off Thread deflection fingers Cutting width dial Thread tension fine adjustment Freearm cleaning cover Thread guiding plate Freearm Needle threader cover Guide rail Knife cover insert Sewing light Looper cover...

  • Page 14: Overview - Needle Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - Needle area Stitch plate Needle holder Screws of the stitch plate Needle checking window Presser foot spring Needle screws Standard Presser Foot overlock Thread guide on the needle holder Presser foot shaft Overlock needles ELx705 CF...
  • Page 15 My BERNINA overlocker Standard Presser Foot overlock Cutting line at cutting width 6 1 cm distance to the cutting line Right needle for OL (RN) Tape Guide Left needle for OL (LN)

  • Page 16: Overview - Looper Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - Looper area mtc micro thread control dial Upper looper converter Rolled hem selection lever Lower looper Knife Air threader pipes upper looper Upper looper Air threader pipes lower looper...

  • Page 17: Overview - Threading Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - Threading area Needle threader cover Threading chart Accessories storage Air threader nozzles Looper cover Air threader connector on/off Air threader circumvention Needle pad Knife cover insert...

  • Page 18: Overview - Side

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - side Carry handle and recessed grip Foot control connection Handwheel Power switch Magnetic holder for touch screen pen Power cable connection USB connection (covered) Type label Air vents...

  • Page 19: Overview - Back Panel

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - Back panel Spool pin Thread cutter Spool pin Presser foot lifter Carry handle Presser foot release lever (red) Retractable thread guide Guide rail Presser foot pressure wheel...

  • Page 20: Symbols On The Machine

    My BERNINA overlocker Symbols on the machine The symbols on the machine are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. left overlock needle thread (Left needle for OL) Thread path yellow OL right overlock needle thread...
  • Page 21 My BERNINA overlocker Rolled hem selection lever (Overlock/Rolled hem) Knife on/off micro thread control (mtc) (micro thread control) Free Hand System (FHS) (Free Hand System) Presser foot pressure Air t hreader Default values The default values of the machine are chosen so that the settings are suitable for most typical applications.

  • Page 22: Overview - Standard Accessories

    My BERNINA overlocker 1.5 Overview - standard accessories Included accessories The machine is ready for operation with the supplied accessories. Special sewing applications sometimes require optional accessories. Visit www.bernina.comfor more accessories information. Illustration Name Purpose Dust cover To protect the machine against dust when it is not...
  • Page 23 My BERNINA overlocker Illustration Name Purpose Slide-on Table To increase the sewing surface. Free Hand System (FHS) To raise and lower the presser foot. Standard presser foot For all overlock stitches. overlock #L10 For general sewing projects. To sew on tape up to a width of 12 mm.
  • Page 24 My BERNINA overlocker Figure Name Purpose BERNINA tweezers To grip the threads in narrow positions. Needle threader/inserter To manually thread, insert and remove the needle. Accenssories box with accessory Illustration Name Purpose Accessories box To store the supplied accessories as well as standard with optional accessories.
  • Page 25 My BERNINA overlocker Illustration Name Purpose Screwdriver, Torx T10 To loosen/tighten the stitch plate screws. Threading wire To thread the looper threads manually in the air threader pipe. Accessories box extension with accessories Illustration Name Purpose Accessories box To store the supplied accessories as well as standard with optional accessories.

  • Page 26: Details Of The Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker 1.6 Details of the screen Software operation The touch-sensitive screen can be operated with the finger or stylus. Tap: Short tap of an element. Draw: Tap the screen and slowly move in one direction, eg. for scrolling up and down.
  • Page 27 My BERNINA overlocker Activate/deactivate functions Figure Element Status Switch Function is activated. Function is deactivated. Icon Function ist deactivated. Function ist activated. Adjust values Illustration Name Purpose Slider control Set the value with the slider control. Reset the value to the default value by tapping the small bullet.
  • Page 28 My BERNINA overlocker Enter text and numbers To enter numerical values or text, a corresponding keyboard is shown. Illustration Name Purpose Entry field Display of the entry. Delete all characters entered with a single tap. «Delete» Delete the last character.

  • Page 29: Screen Structure

    My BERNINA overlocker Screen structure The screen can be operated by touching the desired icon with your finger or with the included touch screen pen. When the machine is switched on for the first time, the desired screen language is requested in which the display texts appear.

  • Page 30: Home Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker «clr» resets all settings of the selected stitch changed on-screen to the default value. Home screen All settings/queries that are not directly related to a specific stitch are made in the home screen. This view provides an entry-point to personalize the machine and query information.

  • Page 31: Sewing Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker User modes The user modes allow to preset the sewing screen according to the sewing experience of the user. The Guided mode is preset. «Guided mode» «Expert mode» Guided mode The guided mode is preset as standard and allows a smooth start into the operation of the machine. No previous knowledge is required.
  • Page 32 My BERNINA overlocker Stitch selection «Stitch pattern» To switch between schematic or realistic stitch view. «Name» To activate/deactivate the stitch name next to the stitch pattern. «Stitch number» To select the stitch by entering the stitch number. «Stitches» To select an overlock stitch.
  • Page 33 My BERNINA overlocker Manual settings This overview shows which manual settings must be made for the selected stitch. All settings listed here must be checked and performed in order to sew the selected stitch. Note Description «Presser Foot» Indicates the presser foot recommended for the stitch.
  • Page 34 My BERNINA overlocker Stitch view Any changes in this stitch view directly affect the stitch and the machine. All displayed values are set by the machine accordingly. «Stitch number/name» Shows the currently set stitch name with the stitch number. «Stitch view»...

  • Page 35: Setting Up The Machine

    Setting up the machine Setting up the machine 2.1 Working area A solid table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is important to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation for this includes matching the table height with the body posture.

  • Page 36: Switching The Machine On/Off

    Setting up the machine Switching the machine on/off > Set the main power switch to position «I». – The machine, the sewing light and the screen are switched on. > Set the main power switch to position «0». – The machine, the sewing light and the screen are switched off, whereby the sewing light may still glow a little.

  • Page 37: Attaching The Spool Stabilizer

    Setting up the machine > Turn the thread guide to the left and right until the two positioning pins engage. – The outer thread guide wires are parallel to the machine front. > To retract the thread guide, push the thread guide down with a little pressure. Attaching the spool stabilizer For large thread cones, the spool stabilizer serves to stabilize the thread cone on the spool pin.

  • Page 38: Place The Spool Disc

    Setting up the machine Place the spool disc The Spool Disc ensures the stability of the thread spool and the even unwinding of the thread. > Place the thread spool on the Thread Stand. > Push the flat side of the Spool Disc over the Spool Pin to the thread spool. Using the spool net The spool net prevents the thread from sliding down from the thread spool and is recommended for special threads.

  • Page 39: Foot Control

    Pressing the foot control moves the needles, the loopers and the knife. The sewing speed can be infinitely adjusted by more or less pressure on the foot control. The maximum sewing speed (pressing the foot control all the way down) can be preset. (see page 56) When the threader cover is open, the one-step BERNINA air threader starts.

  • Page 40: Acoustic Signal

    Setting up the machine > To position the needle up/down, press the foot control down with the heel «Back-kick». The «Back-kick» is deactivated when the machine covers are open. Acoustic signal If the sewing preparation of the machine or the air threading process is not guaranteed, an acustic signal sounds by pressing the foot control.

  • Page 41: Lifting The Front Foot

    Setting up the machine > Lower the Presser Foot Lifter. – The machine is ready for sewing. – The Thread Tension is active. Lifting the front foot By lifting the presser foot lifter above the latching position, the space between the stitch plate and presser foot increases.

  • Page 42: Lifting The Presser Foot Up/Down With The Knee Lifter

    Setting up the machine Lifting the presser foot up/down with the knee lifter Temporarily lifting the presser foot using the Free Hand System allows the sewing project to be repositioned using both hands. Prerequisite: • The Knee Lifter of the Free Hand System is attached. (see page 52) >...

  • Page 43: Changing The Presser Foot

    Setting up the machine Changing the presser foot Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. • The presser foot is raised. > Press the Release Button on the rear side of the Presser Foot Shaft. – The presser foot is released. >...

  • Page 44: Needle Area

    Correctly inserted needles are not at the same height. Damage due to excessive tightening of the screws NOTICE The threads of the Needle Holder may be damaged. A repair by the Authorized BERNINA dealer is required. > Do not overtighten the Needle Screws. Prerequisite: •...
  • Page 45 Setting up the machine > Guide the needle inserter from below over the needle and loosen the needle screw using the supplied screwdriver Hex. > Remove the needle downwards and place it in the needle box or the needle pad behind the threader cover.

  • Page 46: Using The Built-In Needle Threader

    Setting up the machine Using the built-in needle threader The built-in needle threader serves as the fastest threading method for the needle size 80 ─ 90 and can be used for the left. Threading the needles Prerequisite: • The presser foot is swung out. •...
  • Page 47 Setting up the machine > Extend the thread to the back on the right. > Release the pressure on the needle threader selector and let it go back to its initial position. – The thread is pulled through the needle eye by a backward movement of the threader head and behind the needle holder a thread loop is formed.

  • Page 48: Threading The Needle Manually

    Setting up the machine Threading the needle manually With the Needle Threader every needle can be threaded easily. > Hold the needle threader with the triangular mark facing up. > Pull the thread horizontally through the Y-shaped slot and hold the end of the thread. >...

  • Page 49: Positioning The Needles Up/Down

    Setting up the machine Positioning the needles up/down The needles always remain in the topmost position when the sewing process is stopped. Turning the handwheel changes the needle position and the topmost position is not ensured. The «Back-kick» is deactivated when the machine covers are open. The top needle position is required for the following actions: •...

  • Page 50: Machine Covers

    Setting up the machine 2.6 Machine covers The machine covers protect against injuries caused by moving components and prevent fragile elements from being damaged. All covers must be fitted or closed prior to sewing. • Threader cover • Looper cover •...

  • Page 51: Open/Close The Looper Cover

    Setting up the machine Open/close the looper cover The looper cover with integrated knife cover insert protects against injuries caused by the movement of the looper and knife movement as well as against dust and fabric scraps. Prerequisite: • Threader cover is opened. >...

  • Page 52: Sewing Assistance

    Connection until it stops. > To remove the Knee Lifter, pull the Knee Lifter out of the Knee Lifter Connection without swinging the Knee Lifter sideways. The swing-out position of the knee lifter can be adjusted at an authorized BERNINA dealer if required.

  • Page 53: Attaching/Removing The Cut-Offs Bin

    Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the cut-offs bin The Cut-offs Bin catches the fabric scraps during the sewing process. > To attach the Cut-offs Bin, hook the Cut-offs Bin into the snap-in opening on the Looper Cover. > To remove the Cut-offs Bin, lift the Cut-offs Bin out of the snap-in opening on the Looper Cover. Attaching/removing the freearm cover The freearm is ideal when working with tubular, closed projects such as cuffs, trouser hems or sleeve ends.

  • Page 54: Attaching/Removing The Slide-On Table

    Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the slide-on table The slide-on table increases the sewing surface, which is especially helpful with larger sewing projects. Prerequisite: • The freearm cover is removed. > To attach the slide-on table, push the slide-on table along the guide rails from the left until it engages. >...

  • Page 55: Attaching/Removing The Seam Guide

    Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the seam guide The seam guide enables the fabric to be cut evenly, e.g. when sewing decorative pintucks. When guiding along the edge of the fabric fold without cutting, the seam guide supports straight seams. >...

  • Page 56: Setting Up Software

    Setting up software Setting up software 3.1 Setup Program «Sewing speed» «Firmware settings» «Screen brightness / sewing light» «Personal settings» «Sound settings» «Monitoring functions» Adjusting the sewing speed The sewing speed of the machine can be preset. The maximum sewing speed is achieved by pressing the foot control all the way down. The minimum sewing speed is attained by pressing the foot control gently.

  • Page 57: Adjusting Screen Brightness/Sewing Light

    Setting up software Adjusting screen brightness/sewing light The screen brightness can be regulated according to your own wishes. If the sewing light has a disturbing effect on the project, the Sewing Light can be switched off and on again. «Screen brightness» «Sewing light on/off»...

  • Page 58: Setting Up The Firmware

    Setting up software Setting up the firmware «Language selection» (see page 108) «Factory setting» (see page 109) «Information on the firmware version» (see «Firmware update» (see page 110) page 108) «Calibrating the screen» (see page 112) Personalize the sewing screen Different colors can be assigned to the sewing screen for the two user modes «Guided mode» and «Expert mode».

  • Page 59: Presser Foot Indicator

    Setting up software Presser foot indicator When the «presser foot indicator» is activated, an animation appears if the presser foot is not in sewing position. A warning signal is heard when the sound is on. «Presser foot indicator» 3.2 Querying the Tutorial Sewing techniques Stitch selection Thread/Threading...

  • Page 60: Activating The Eco Mode

    Setting up software 3.3 Activating the eco mode > Press «eco». – The screen turns black and the eco mode symbol appears. – The sewing light switched off. – The machine is not ready for sewing. > Tap the icon «eco» on the screen. –...

  • Page 61: Sewing Start

    Sewing start Sewing start 4.1 Check before starting to sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed: • The machine is switched on and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the applications have been selected. (see page 61) •...

  • Page 62: Selecting The Needle Thread

    Damage by coated or waxed threads Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes, resulting in permanent blocking of the pipes. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. Avoid use of coated or waxed threads.

  • Page 63: Selecting The Needle

    Sewing start 4.4 Selecting the needle This machine is designed for needles of the system ELx705 with needle sizes 70 ─ 90. It is recommended to use the ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version as ELx705 CF needles are more durable. Due to the second thread groove, the machine runs most reliably with ELx705 CF needles.

  • Page 64: Needle Overview

    Fine knitwear, embroidering on fine, delicate fabrics 130/705 H SES 90/14 Metafil needle 80/12 Long needle eye (2 mm) in all Sewing projects with metallic needle sizes threads 130/705 H METAFIL *Not all needle sizes are available as BERNINA Needles.

  • Page 65: Detect Defective Needles

    Sewing start Detect defective needles Check the needle before each sewing start and replace it if necessary. Bent needle Blunt needle Damaged needle point 4.5 Fixing fabric layers If several layers of fabric are sewn together, they can be fixed with basting stitches sewn on the sewing machine or by pins.

  • Page 66: Stitch

    Stitch Stitch 5.1 Stitch type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Overlockstitch The 3- and 4-Thread Overlock are considered standard overlock stitches for sewing two layers of fabric together, for finishing cut edges, e. ...

  • Page 67: Select Stitch By Application

    Stitch 5.2 Select stitch by application Edge serging The finishing of a fabric edge is mostly used as preparation for open seams or as a decorative edge finish. Stitch number Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 3 3-thread overlock wide (LN) No. 4 3-thread overlock narrow (RN) No. 8 3-thread rolled hem...

  • Page 68: Seam

    Stitch Stitch number Stitch name Stitch pattern No. 29 2-Thread Blanket Stitch Narrow (RN) No. 30 3-thread picot stitch Seam Seams are at least two layers of fabric, which are usually placed right side on right side and then sewn together. There are two different types of seams. •...

  • Page 69: Stitch Selection On The Screen

    Stitch Flatlock for flat seams The flatlock forms loops on the upper side of the seam and stitches on the underside. > Thread and set the machine for 2- or 3-thread flatlock. > to sew two layers of fabric together (wrong side on wrong side). >...

  • Page 70: Selecting A Stitch Directly

    Stitch Selecting a stitch directly Prerequisite: • «Sewing screen» is active. > Select the «Stitch selection». > Select a «stitch.» – The Wizard begins. > Follow the instructions by scrolling forward and perform one setting at a time, step by step. The stitch selection with the preset Expert Mode omits the Setup Wizard and displays an overview of the manual settings to be made.
  • Page 71 Stitch Stitch save/overwrite In order to save a stitch with changed settings in the Personal Memory, the stitch selection and any modifications to it must already have been made. From the guided mode, tapping on the personal memory automatically displays a query as to whether the stitch should be saved.

  • Page 72: Using The Stitch Recommendation Of Creative Consultant

    Stitch Delete stitch Prerequisite: • The Personal Memory is selected. • All saved stitches are listed. > Tap «Deleting a stitch». – The stitches in the memory that can be deleted are marked. > Tap on the stitch pattern of the stitch to be deleted. >...

  • Page 73: Machine Settings

    Machine settings Machine settings 6.1 Setting the knife Knife on/off For a better overview and better access in the sewing area, e. g. for threading, the knife can be lowered (off) and then raised again (on). The knife is also lowered if the sewing project already has a clean cut edge and the edge is only to be finished.

  • Page 74: Setting The Cutting Width

    Machine settings Setting the cutting width The cutting width for the knife position can be adjusted between 5 - 9 mm. The numbers on the scale correspond with the actual cutting width in mm from the left overlock needle «LN» to the cutting edge. The cutting width is used to determine the stitch width.

  • Page 75: Upper Looper Converter Hooked In/Hooked Out

    Machine settings 6.2 Upper looper converter hooked in/hooked out By hooking in the upper looper converter, the upper looper grabs the lower looper thread so that it covers the entire fabric edge. Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. •...

  • Page 76: Adjusting The Thread Tension

    Machine settings 6.3 Adjusting the thread tension The thread tension has a considerable influence on each individual thread and its task to perform the stitch formation. The thread tension is preset for each stitch with a default value and does not have to be changed until the test sewing.
  • Page 77 Machine settings > Each individual thread tension can be adjusted between 1 and 9 using the fine adjustment keys «+/-». The alteration of the thread tension is visible on the screen. Resetting to default value > Select the yellow-outlined field –...

  • Page 78: Adjusting The Differential Feed

    Machine settings 6.4 Adjusting the differential feed The Differential Feed prevents unwanted seam puckering or seam waves in knitted or stretchy fabrics as well as the shifting of fabric layers. The rear feed dog always maintains the same speed, while the speed of the front feed dog can be adjusted.
  • Page 79 Machine settings Default value 1 For default value 1, both feed dogs move by the same distance. The machine achieves an optimal sewing result for most applications regarding flat and even seams in the default value. Ruffling/Gather to fit 1.5 − 2 The front feed dog with the setting value 2 travels a longer distance than the rear feed dog at constant speed.
  • Page 80 Machine settings Gathering This setting for gathering can also be used to deliberately ruffle the material. > To gather intentionally, increase Differential Feed to a value between 1.5 and 2. An elongated stitch length enhances the gathering effect. Gather to fit This setting for gathering can also be used to deliberately ruffle the material and helps to reduce seam waves.

  • Page 81: Setting The Rolled Hem Selection Lever "O/R

    Machine settings 6.5 Setting the rolled hem selection lever «O/R» The adjustment positions for overlocking «O» and rolled hems «R» are marked in the stitch plate and can be set for the desired application. Overlocking «O» During overlocking, the upper and lower looper threads are laid around the stitch finger and this creates an even distance to the cut edge.

  • Page 82: Setting The Mtc Micro Thread Control

    Machine settings 6.6 Setting the mtc micro thread control By default mtc micro thread control is always set to position «0». The mtc micro thread control affects the amount of the Looper Thread around the fabric edge and can be adjusted continuously while sewing. This feature makes it easy to achieve the look of the stitch at any given cutting width.

  • Page 83: Setting The Presser Foot Pressure

    Machine settings 6.7 Setting the presser foot pressure The Presser Foot Pressure of the machine is set in the default value "4" so that it is suitable for sewing medium-weight fabrics. Most materials do not require any adjustment of the Presser Foot Pressure. However, there are some cases where an adjustment is necessary, for example when sewing very light or heavy fabrics.

  • Page 84: Adjusting The Stitch Width

    Machine settings 6.8 Adjusting the stitch width The stitch width can be adjusted in two different ways. • Needle position • Cutting width Changing the stitch width via the needle position The stitch width can vary by the choice of needle position by 2 mm. >...

  • Page 85: Threading

    Threading Threading Due to the one-step BERNINA air threader, no specific sequence is required for threading the machine. Needle system ELx705 CF flat side...

  • Page 86: Preparing For Threading

    Threading 7.1 Preparing for threading Perform the required mechanical settings for the stitch e. g. needle position, rolled hem selection lever and upper looper converter. Correct threading is ensured when following the color markings. Prerequisite: • The retractable thread guide is fully extended. •...

  • Page 87: One-Step Bernina Air Threader

    Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes, resulting in permanent blocking of the pipes. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. Avoid use of coated or waxed threads. The setting for the air threading is made by turning the air threader connection.

  • Page 88: Threading The Looper Threads Ul/Blue, Ll/Red

    Threading Threading the looper threads UL/blue, LL/red For a stitch formation at least the lower looper thread (red) is required. Depending on the stitch, the upper looper (blue), the lower looper (red) are threaded. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 86) >...

  • Page 89: Threading The Looper Thread With An Auxiliary Thread

    Threading NOTICE Pulse drive If the air threader pipes are not coupled, the puls drive will be performed by pressing the foot control. The needles are brought into the top position and the coupling is complete. Press the foot control again. Threading can continue.

  • Page 90: Circumventing The Air Theader

    Threading > Pull the auyiliary thread ends until the looper thread comes out of the looper eye. > Remove the auxiliary thread. > Place the looper thread under the presser foot to the rear left. Circumventing the air theader Some thick or decorative threads cannot be threaded through the air threader nozzles or don't provide optimal stitch formations when these threads are threaded through the air threader pipes.
  • Page 91 Threading > Thread the special thread and guide it through the respective colored eyelet of the air threader circumvention. > Tie the end of the auxiliary thread to the special thread from the air threader circumvention eye. > Pull the auxiliary thread until the knot emerges out of the looper eye. >...

  • Page 92: Using The Threading Wire

    Damage by improper use of the threading wire NOTICE The air threader pipes may be damaged. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. > Insert and pull through the threading wire only in the thread flow direction. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 93: Threading The Needle Thread

    Threading 7.3 Threading the needle thread For the needles color-coded threading paths are assigned. Threading the overlock needle thread LN/yellow The thread path for the left overlock needle is marked in yellow. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 86) •...

  • Page 94: Threading The Overlock Needle Thread Rn/Green

    Threading Threading the overlock needle thread RN/green The thread path for the right overlock needle is marked in green. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 86) • The presser foot is swung out. (see page 42) > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and through the green marking of the thread deflection finger.

  • Page 95: Changing The Thread

    Threading 7.4 Changing the thread Tying on threads is often used for changing needle thread or looper thread. (see page 96) Friction can be reduced by keeping the knotted area as tight as possible. NOTICE Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye The needle can be bent.

  • Page 96: Changing The Needle Thread

    Threading Changing the needle thread Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye NOTICE The needle can be bent. A bent needle affects the stitch formation. > Cut the tie in front of the needle eye and thread the needle individually. >...

  • Page 97: Changing The Looper Thread

    Threading Changing the looper thread > Cut the thread above the thread cone. > Change the thread cone. > Tie the inserted looper thread to the new thread. > Pull the end of the thread out of the looper eye until the knot emerges. >...

  • Page 98: Sewing Test

    Sewing test Sewing test To check the optimal setting, a sewing test should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the result of the sewing test, fine adjustments for stitch optimization are possible.

  • Page 99: Practical Overlocking

    Practical overlocking Practical overlocking In this chapter the most important applications for a successful sewing project are described. More advanced sewing techniques are described in the BERNINA overlocker manual and can be purchased from authorized BERNINA dealers. 9.1 Securing overlock stitches The stitches are secured when they are overstitched.

  • Page 100: Securing Overlock Stitches

    Practical overlocking Securing overlock stitches > Sew a thread chain of about 10 cm beyond the end of the seam. > Pull the thread chain end through the looper threads using a loop flip or a tapestry needle. Knotting the overlock chain Knotting the overlock chain is the safest way to prevent the stitch from opening.

  • Page 101: Sew Blanket Stitch

    Practical overlocking > Remove the left overlock Needle Thread in the same way. – The looper threads lie loosely around the fabric edge and can be pulled away easily. 9.3 Sew blanket stitch The Blanketstitch is similar to the popular Parisian stitch and suits as edge finishing on woollen blankets, scarves or thick materials.

  • Page 102: Gathering

    Practical overlocking 9.4 Gathering Ruffling is a gathering or puckering of a seam. Increasing the differential feed > Set the machine for a 4-thread overlock. > Set the Differential Feed to «2». > Set the stitch length to «4.5». > Sew the fabric with this side up on which the ruffling is wanted. >...

  • Page 103: Sew Outer Corners

    Practical overlocking 9.5 Sew outer corners A neat corner can be achieved by the following two methods. Method 1 > Set the machine for a 2-, 3- or 4-thread overlock. > Sew along the edge of the fabric beyond the corner. >...

  • Page 104: Sewing Inner Corners

    Practical overlocking > Lower the presser foot and continue sewing. 9.6 Sewing inner corners > Set the machine for a 2- or 3-thread overlock. > Draw sewing lines on both sides of the corner about 5 cm long with the fabric pen. >...

  • Page 105: Sewing Inner Curves

    Practical overlocking > Place the needles exactly in the inner corner to fix the fabric. > Raise the presser foot and fold the fabric to the back. > Lower the presser foot and continue sewing. 9.7 Sewing inner curves Inner curves appear on necklines, facings and armholes. Time-consuming clipping or trimming can be avoided by overlocking the fabric edge.

  • Page 106: Using The Tape Guide

    Practical overlocking > Turn the fabric off to the left of the presser foot. > Lower the presser foot and sew over and beyond the fabric. 9.9 Using the tape guide This presser foot provides an adjustable tape guide which can hold ribbons and elastics up to 12 mm in width.

  • Page 107: Care And Maintenance

    Care and maintenance 10 Care and maintenance...

  • Page 108: Firmware

    Care and maintenance 10.1 Firmware Selecting a language By selecting one of the languages listed, all displays and assistance are changed accordingly. (see page 26) Information on the firmware This screen allows the dealer to gather important information about the machine. «Firmware version»...

  • Page 109: Restore Factory Settings

    Care and maintenance Restore factory settings The factory settings are used to reset the software to the delivery state. All saved data will be deleted and cannot be restored. If the data from the personal memory should still be available, it must be backed up to the USB stick.

  • Page 110: Updating Firmware

    In general, data from the Personal Memory and altered settings are automatically transferred during a firmware update. Data loss can be avoided by backing up data and settings to the BERNINA USB stick before the update and importing them back to the machine after the update.
  • Page 111 Incomplete update due to removing the BERNINA USB stick too early If the software has not been updated or has not been fully updated, the machine cannot be used. > Remove the BERNINA USB stick only once the update has been successfully completed. > Import the saved data, if available.

  • Page 112: Calibrate Screen

    10.2 Machine Cleaning the machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. Based on normal household use, an annual service at the Authorized BERNINA dealer is recommended. Recommended aids for cleaning: • Damp cloth • Brush •...

  • Page 113: Cleaning The Looper Area

    Care and maintenance Cleaning the looper area Dust, fabric and thread remnants accumulate in the looper area during overlocking and these must be removed regularly. Prerequisite: • The presser foot is raised. • The needles are in the top position. •...

  • Page 114: Cleaning The Air Threader Pipes

    Cleaning the suction feet prevents the machine from slipping on the table at high sewing speed. > Remove dust and thread remnants from the suction feet with a damp cloth. Oiling the machine > Regularly lubricate the upper looper joint with a drop of the supplied BERNINA overlock oil.

  • Page 115: Errors And Faults

    Errors and faults 11 Errors and faults 11.1 Troubleshooting Fault Cause Solution Screen reacts poorly to touch Screen is misaligned > Calibrate the screen. (see page 112) The stitch is irregular The thread tension is incorrect. > Adjust the thread tension. (see page 76) The needle size is incorrect.
  • Page 116 Knife stained > Set the cutting width to 9. > Remove lint and remnants from the knife. Knife defective > Have the knife replaced by your authorized BERNINA dealer. Fabric piles up The presser foot pressure is > Reduce the presser foot pressure . (see page 83)

  • Page 117: Storage And Disposal

    If the machine is no longer required, dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way in accordance with the national guidelines or take it to the nearest BERNINA specialist shop. Do not dispose of the machine in the household waste.

  • Page 118: Specifications

    Specifications 13 Specifications Designation Value Unit Number of stitches Number of loopers Number of needles 1 ─ 2 Needle System ELx705 CF Needle size 70 ─ 90 (10 ─ 14) Differential Feed 0.7 ─ 2 Maximum fabric thickness 6,0 (0,23) mm (in) Stitch length 0,8 ─...

  • Page 119: Index

    Index Index Accessories box extension with accessories ......  25 eco ..................  30 Accessories storage...............   17 eco mode ..............  30,  60 Acoustic Signal ..............  40 Environmental Protection ............  9 Activate/deactivate function..........  27 Expert mode .................   31 Adjusting the screen brightness ..........  57 Explanation of symbols ............
  • Page 120 Index Information on the firmware version ......  58,  108 Personal Memory ..............  70 Personalize the sewing screen ..........  58 Knee Lifter ..............  42,  52 Power cable connection ............  18 Knife..................  16 Power switch ................   18 Knife cover insert ............   13,  17,  50 Presser foot lifter..............
  • Page 121 Index Standard Presser Foot overlock..........  14 Standard Presser Foot Overlock ..........  15 Stitch plate ................  14 Stitch selection..............  70 Storage................  117 Stretching ................  80 Suction feet ................  13 Swinging the presser foot in/out ...........   42 Tape guide................  106 Technical specifications ............  118 Thread Cutter ............
  • Page 122 BERNINA recommends threads from  BERNINA International AG | CH-8266 Steckborn Switzerland | www.bernina.com | © Copyright by BERNINA International AG 1026035.00B.04 2021-03...

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