Bernina L 890 User Manual
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Bernina L 890 User Manual

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  • Page 1 BERNINA L 890 User manual...
  • Page 3 Congratulations on the purchase of your BERNINA Overlocker! With BERNINA, you have selected a product that will impress you for years to come. For our family has made customer satisfaction our number one priority for more than 100 years. It is my personal goal to offer you Swiss innovation and precision at the highest level of perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and comprehensive customer service.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    BERNINA quality control ......... 11 Machine covers ............49 Open/close the threader cover ........49 Welcome to the world of BERNINA ......11 Open/close the looper cover ......... 50 Machine overview ..........13 Removing/attaching the knife cover insert ....50 Overview - front ............
  • Page 5 10.9 Sew inner corners ........... 112 Preparing for threading .......... 88 10.10 Sewing inner curves ..........113 One-step BERNINA air threader ......89 10.11 Sew outer curves and circles ........113 Performing a pulse drive ..........10.12 Sewing a hem ............114 Threading the looper threads UL/blue, LL/red, CL/ purple .................
  • Page 6 Table of Contents Restore factory settings ..........118 Updating firmware ............. 119 Calibrate screen ............120 11.2 Machine ..............121 Cleaning the machine ..........121 Cleaning the looper area ..........121 Cleaning the air threader pipes ........122 Cleaning the screen ............ 123 Cleaning the suction feet ...

  • Page 7: Important Safety Instructions

    Do not view the LED light directly with optical instruments (e.g. magnifier). The LED light corresponds with protection class 1M. • When the LED light is damaged or defective, contact your BERNINA specialist dealer. To reduce the risk of injury: •...
  • Page 8 • Never use damaged needles. • Always use the original BERNINA stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage. • To disconnect, turn power switch to "0"and then remove the plug from the outlet.

  • Page 9: Important Information

    • If you pass the machine to a third party, always include the instruction manual. Proper use Your BERNINA machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper.
  • Page 10 Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. CAUTION Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. NOTICE You will find tips from BERNINA sewing experts next to this symbol.

  • Page 11: My Bernina Overlocker

    2.3 Welcome to the world of BERNINA Made to create, this is the slogan of BERNINA. Not only with our machines do we support you in the implementation of your ideas. In addition to the offers listed below, we offer you lots of suggestions and instructions for your future projects as well as the opportunity to exchange ideas with other sewing, quilting and embroidery enthusiasts.
  • Page 12 Fancy instructions, free sewing patterns and embroidery motifs as well as many new ideas: all this you can find in the weekly blog by BERNINA. Our experts give valuable tips and explain step by step how you can achieve the desired result. In the community you can upload your own projects and exchange experiences and ideas with other sewing and embroidering enthusiasts.

  • Page 13: Machine Overview

    My BERNINA overlocker 2.4 Machine overview Overview - front Knife on/off Screen Cutting width dial Thread tension fine adjustment Freearm cleaning cover Thread guiding plate Freearm Thread deflection fingers Guide rails Threader cover Sewing light Knife cover insert/coverstitch insert Thread cutter...

  • Page 14: Overview - Needle Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - needle area Stitch plate Needle checking window Standard presser foot overlock/coverstitch Needle screws Presser foot spring Thread guide on the needle holder Presser foot shaft Overlock needles ELx705  CF (2 pcs.) Presser foot lifter CS needles ELx705 (3 pcs.)
  • Page 15 My BERNINA overlocker Standard presser foot overlock/coverstitch Cutting line at cutting width 6 Right needle for CS (RC) Right needle for OL (RN) Center needle for CS (CC) Left needle for OL (LN) Left needle for CS (LC)

  • Page 16: Overview - Looper Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - looper area mtc micro thread control dial Lower looper Rolled hem selection lever Chain looper Knife Air threader pipes upper looper Upper looper converter Air threader pipes lower looper Upper looper Air threader pipes chain looper...

  • Page 17: Overview - Threading Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - threading area Threader cover Upper looper on/off Accessories storage Threading chart Looper cover Air threader nozzles Coverstitch insert Air threader connector on/off Knife cover insert Needle pad Air threader circumvention...

  • Page 18: Overview - Side

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - side Carry groove Foot control connection Handwheel Power switch Touchscreen pen magnetic holder Type label Air vents Power cable connection USB connection (covered)

  • Page 19: Overview - Rear

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - rear Thread stand Thread cutter Spool pin Presser foot lifter Carrying handle Presser foot release Lever (red) Retractable thread guide Guide rails Presser foot pressure wheel...

  • Page 20: Symbols On The Machine

    My BERNINA overlocker Symbols on the machine The symbols on the machine are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. • Overlockstitch formation «OL» • Coverstitch formation «CS» left overlock needle thread (Left needle for OL)
  • Page 21 My BERNINA overlocker Thread path purple «CL» Thread path purple air threading circumvention Upper looper converter activated/deactivated (Upper looper converter) Upper looper on/off Cutting width (Cutting width) Stitch length (Stitch length) Differential feed (Differential feed) Rolled hem selection lever (Overlock/Rollhem) Overlock «O»...

  • Page 22: Default Values

    2.5 Overview - standard accessories Included accessories The machine is ready for operation with the supplied accessories. Special sewing applications sometimes require optional accessories. Visit www.bernina.comfor more accessories information. Illustration Name Purpose Dust cover...
  • Page 23 My BERNINA overlocker Illustration Name Purpose Coverstitch insert To protect the looper area with deactived upper looper. Freearm cover To extend the work surface. Slide-on table To increase the sewing surface. Free Hand System (FHS) To raise and lower the presser foot.
  • Page 24 My BERNINA overlocker Accessories storage with accessories The most frequently used accessories while sewing are stored in the threader cover of the machine. Figure Name Purpose Needle set ELx705 CF Recommended needles for all-purpose use. Screwdriver, Allen key To loosen or tighten the fixing screws on the 1,5 mm needle holder.
  • Page 25 My BERNINA overlocker Accessories box standard with accessories Illustration Name Purpose Overlocker oil For oiling the looper components. Spool stabilizer (5x) To stabilize the thread cone on the thread stand. Spool net (5x) For even thread unwinding with smooth threads from the thread spool, e.g.
  • Page 26 My BERNINA overlocker Accessories box extension with accessories Illustration Name Purpose Touchscreen pen For precise operation of the touch screen. Coverstitch lock tool To pull the needle threads and to secure the stitches. Cover-/Chainstitch foot For cover and chainstitch seams, for general #C13 sewing work and for topstitching.

  • Page 27: Details Of The Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker 2.6 Details of the screen Software operation The touch-sensitive screen can be operated with the finger or stylus. Tap: Short tap of an element. Draw: Tap the screen and slowly move in one direction, eg. for scrolling up and down.
  • Page 28 My BERNINA overlocker Activate/deactivate functions Figure Element Status Switch Function is activated. Function is deactivated. Icon Function ist deactivated. Function ist activated. Adjust values Illustration Name Purpose Slider control Set the value with the slider control. Reset the value to the default value by tapping the small bullet.
  • Page 29 My BERNINA overlocker Enter text and numbers To enter numerical values or text, a corresponding keyboard is shown. Illustration Name Purpose Entry field Display of the entry. Delete all characters entered with a single tap. «Deleting» Delete the last character.

  • Page 30: Screen Structure

    My BERNINA overlocker Screen structure The screen can be operated by touching the desired icon with your finger or with the included touchscreen pen. When the machine is switched on for the first time, the desired screen language is requested in which the screen texts appear.

  • Page 31: Home Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker When «?» help is activated, information is called up and displayed on the selected screen area. «clr» resets all settings of the selected stitch changed on the screen to the default value. Home screen All settings/queries that are not directly related to a specific stitch are made in the home screen. This view provides an entry-point to personalize the machine and query information.
  • Page 32 My BERNINA overlocker Creative consultant The creative consultant recommends the optimal stitch in combination with needle, thread and presser foot based on an individual project. (see page 73) eco mode If work is interrupted for a longer period of time, the machine can be switched to power saving mode. The eco mode also serves as a child safety feature.

  • Page 33: Sewing Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker Sewing screen This screen is for all settings that are directly related to a stitch. Different views or default values of the stitch can be displayed or the setup wizard can be called up. «Stitch selection» «Manual settings»...
  • Page 34 My BERNINA overlocker Personal memory In the Personal memory changed stitch settings are saved, named and selected. A stitch name is unique and can not be assigned multiple times. A maximum of 100 different stitch settings can be saved as notes.
  • Page 35 My BERNINA overlocker Manual settings This overview shows which manual settings must be made for the selected stitch. All settings listed here must be checked and executed to be able to sew the selected stitch. Note Description «Presser foot» Indicates the presser foot recommended for the stitch.
  • Page 36 My BERNINA overlocker Stitch view Changes in this stitch view directly affect the stitch and the machine. All displayed values are set accordingly by the machine. «Stitch number/name» Show the actual set stitch name with stitch number. «Stitch view» Show the currently set stitch pattern. Can contain multiple views (schematic / real or exploded eg flat seam).

  • Page 37: Setting Up The Machine

    Setting up the machine Setting up the machine 3.1 Connecting the machine and switching it on A stable table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is an important point to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation is to match the table height and body posture to each other.

  • Page 38: Thread Stand

    Setting up the machine 3.2 Thread stand Thread cones, foot spools or household spools of all sizes can be placed on the thread stand. Preparing the retractable thread guide The retractable thread guide is placed on the thread stand. It ensures a clean unwinding of the thread from the thread cones.

  • Page 39: Attaching The Spool Stabilizer

    Setting up the machine Attaching the spool stabilizer For large thread cones, the spool stabilizer serves to stabilize the thread cone on the spool pin. > For extremely conical spools, place the spool stabilizer onto the spool pin with the pointy end up. >...

  • Page 40: Using The Spool Net

    Setting up the machine Using the spool net The spool net prevents the thread from sliding down from the thread spool and is recommended for special threads. • Thin threads, which slide easily off the spool • Nylon, rayon, silk threads or effect and metallic threads >...

  • Page 41: Press The Foot Control

    Pressing the foot control moves the needles, loopers and knife. The sewing speed can be infinitely adjusted by more or less pressure on the foot control. The maximum sewing speed (pressing the foot control all the way down) can be preset. (see page 56) With open threader cover, the BERNINA one-step air threader starts.

  • Page 42: Presser Foot

    Setting up the machine 3.4 Presser foot Positioning the presser foot up/down The presser foot lifter is located on the rear of the machine. > Push the presser foot lifter upwards until it engages. – The presser foot remains in the upper position. –...

  • Page 43: Lifting The Presser Foot Up/Down With The Knee Lifter

    Setting up the machine > Release the tension on the presser foot lifter. – The presser foot is held in the lock-in position. Lifting the presser foot up/down with the knee lifter Temporarily lifting the presser foot using the Free Hand System allows the sewing project to be repositioned using both hands.

  • Page 44: Changing The Presser Foot

    Setting up the machine Changing the presser foot Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. • The presser foot is raised. > Press the release button on the rear side of the presser foot shaft. – The presser foot is released. >...

  • Page 45: Changing The Needle

    Correctly inserted needles are not at the same height. NOTICE Damage due to excessive tightening of the screws The needle screw treads may be damaged. A repair by the specialist retailer BERNINA is required. > Do not overtighten the needle screws. Prerequisite: •...
  • Page 46 Setting up the machine > Insert the new needle with the flat side to the back into the needle inserter. > Push the needle into the corresponding needle holder opening as far as it will go. > Check the needle position in the needle checking window. >...

  • Page 47: Threading The Needle Manually

    Setting up the machine Threading the needle manually With the needle inserter/threader every needle can be threaded easily. > Hold the needle threader with the triangular mark facing up. > Pull the thread horizontally through the Y-shaped slot and hold the end of the thread. >...

  • Page 48: Positioning The Needles Up/Down

    Setting up the machine Positioning the needles up/down The needles always remain in the topmost position when the sewing process is stopped. Turning the handwheel changes the needle position and the topmost position is not ensured. The «Back-kick» is deactivated when the machine covers are open. The top needle position is required for the following actions: •...

  • Page 49: Machine Covers

    Setting up the machine 3.6 Machine covers The machine covers protect against injuries caused by moving components and prevent fragile elements from being damaged. All covers must be fitted or closed prior to sewing. • Threader cover • Looper cover •...

  • Page 50: Open/Close The Looper Cover

    Setting up the machine Open/close the looper cover The looper cover with integrated knife cover insert protects against injuries caused by the movement of the looper and knife movement as well as against dust and fabric scraps. Prerequisite: • Threader cover is opened. >...

  • Page 51: Removing/Attaching The Coverstitch Insert

    Setting up the machine > To insert the knife cover insert, push the knife cover insert into the snap-in opening. > To remove the knife cover insert, pull the knife cover insert out of the snap-in opening. Removing/attaching the coverstitch insert Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 52: Handwheel

    Setting up the machine 3.7 Handwheel By turning the handwheel counterclockwise, several activities can be performed. • Slow, precise placement of the needle. • Move loopers. • Move knife. • Mechanically couple the air threader. 3.8 Sewing Assistance Using the thread cutter The thread cutter is used to cut the threads and the thread chain.

  • Page 53: Attaching/Removing The Cut-Offs Bin

    > To remove the knee lifter, pull the knee lifter out of the knee lifter connection without swinging the knee lifter sideways. The swing-out position of the knee lifter can be adjusted at an authorized BERNINA dealer if required. Attaching/removing the cut-offs bin The cut-offs bin catches the fabric scraps during the sewing process.

  • Page 54: Attaching/Removing The Freearm Cover

    Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the freearm cover The freearm is ideal when working with tubular, closed projects such as cuffs, trouser hems or sleeve ends. The freearm cover closes the gap between the stitch plate and the sewing surface. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 55: Attaching/Removing The Seam Guide

    Setting up the machine Attaching/removing the seam guide For an even fabric trim. To sew along a folded edge, without trimming, e.g. for flat joining seams. To guide while creating decorative pintucks or parallel seams and hems. > Press the clamp together at the upper part of the seam guide, place the seam guide on the edge of the knife cover insert and let it engage.

  • Page 56: Setting Up Software

    Setting up software Setting up software 4.1 Setup Program «Sewing speed» «Firmware settings» «Screen brightness / sewing light» «Personal settings» «Sound settings» «Monitoring functions» Adjusting the sewing speed The sewing speed of the machine can be preset. The maximum sewing speed is achieved by pressing the foot control all the way down. The minimum sewing speed is achieved by pressing the foot control gently.

  • Page 57: Adjusting Screen Brightness/Sewing Light

    Setting up software Adjusting screen brightness/sewing light The screen brightness can be adjusted according to your own wishes. If the sewing light has a disturbing effect on the project, the sewing light can be switched off and on again. «Screen brightness» «Sewing light on/off»...

  • Page 58: Setting Up The Firmware

    Setting up software Setting up the firmware «Language selection» (see page 116) «Factory setting» (see page 118) «Information on the firmware version» (see «Firmware update» (see page 119) page 117) «Calibrating the screen» (see page 120) Personalize the sewing screen Different colors can be assigned to the sewing screen for the two user modes «Guided mode» and «Expert mode».

  • Page 59: Presser Foot Indicator

    Setting up software Presser foot indicator When the «presser foot indicator» is activated, an animation appears if the presser foot is not in sewing position. A warning signal is heard when the sound is on. «Presser foot indicator» 4.2 Querying the Tutorial >...

  • Page 60: Activating The Eco Mode

    Setting up software 4.3 Activating the eco mode > Press «eco». – The screen turns black and the eco mode symbol appears. – The sewing light switched off. – The machine is not ready for sewing. > Tap the icon «eco» on the screen. –...

  • Page 61: Sewing Start

    Sewing start Sewing start 5.1 Check before starting to sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed. • The machine is switched on and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the applications have been selected. (see page 61) •...

  • Page 62: Selecting The Needle Thread

    Damage by coated or waxed threads Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes, resulting in permanent blocking of the pipes. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. Avoid use of coated or waxed threads.

  • Page 63: Selecting The Needle

    Sewing start 5.4 Selecting the needle This machine is designed for needles of the system ELx705 with needle sizes 70 ─ 90. It is recommended to use the ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version as ELx705 CF needles are more durable. Due to the second thread groove, the machine runs most reliably with ELx705 CF needles.

  • Page 64: Needle Overview

    Fine knitwear, embroidering on fine, delicate fabrics 130/705 H SES 90/14 Metafil needle 80/12 Long needle eye (2 mm) in all Sewing projects with metallic needle sizes threads 130/705 H METAFIL *Not all needle sizes are available as BERNINA needles.

  • Page 65: Detect Defective Needles

    Sewing start Detect defective needles The needles should be checked every time before sewing and replaced if necessary. Bent needles Blunt needle Damaged needle point 5.5 Fixing fabric layers If several layers of fabric are sewn together, they can be fixed by basting stitches with the sewing machine or by pins.

  • Page 66: Stitch

    Stitch Stitch 6.1 Stitch type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Overlockstitch The 3- and 4-thread overlock are considered standard overlock stitches for sewing two layers of fabric together, for finishing cut edges, e.g.
  • Page 67 Stitch Edge serging The finishing of a fabric edge is mostly used as preparation for open seams or as a decorative edge finish. Name Stitch pattern 3-Thread Overlock Wide (LN) 3-Thread Overlock Narrow (RN) 3-Thread Rolled Hem 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Wide (LN) 2-Thread Wrapped Overlock Narrow (RN)
  • Page 68 Stitch Seam Seams are 2 or more layers of fabric, which are usually laid right side on right side and sewn together. There are two different types of seams. • Closed seams • Flat seams Closed seam 3-Thread or 4-Thread Overlock stitches are suitable for closed seams, which loop around both fabric edges and sew them together.

  • Page 69: Coverstitch

    Stitch Name Stitch pattern 2-Thread Flatlock Wide (LN) 2-Thread Flatlock Narrow (RN) Tab. 3: Recommended stitches for a flatlock Coverstitch Coverstitch hems on garments, having been sewn with the machine, look very professional. 3- / 4-Thread Coverstitch The coverstitch consists of 2 - 3 needle threads on the right side and 1 looper thread on the wrong side of the fabric.

  • Page 70: Combostitch

    Stitch 2-Thread Chainstitch The 2-thread chainstitch looks like a straight stitch on the right side of the fabric, and on the wrong side it forms a chain. With a decorative thread in the chain looper and the needle, the chain stitch looks more distinctive and is more prominent.

  • Page 71: Stitch Selection On The Screen

    Stitch 6.2 Stitch selection on the screen There are three different options to select a stitch. Select a stitch from the «Stitch selection» in the sewing screen. (see page 71) In the sewing screen, select a stitch from the «Personal memory». (see page 72) In the Home screen, open the «Creative Consultant»...

  • Page 72: Selecting A Stitch From The Personal Memory

    Stitch Selecting a stitch from the personal memory > Select the personal memory. – Stitches already saved are displayed. > Select the stitch by tapping on the icon. – The setup wizard starts. > Perform all settings for the selected stitch step by step on the machine and scroll to the next screen. >...

  • Page 73: Using The Stitch Recommendation Of Creative Consultant

    Stitch Overwriting a stitch > Select the «Personal memory» and tap on «Save the stitch». – The stitch image is added to the selection. > Select the stitch pattern of the stitch to be overwritten. > Confirm the query «Overwrite». >...

  • Page 74: Machine Settings

    Machine settings Machine settings 7.1 Preparing the machine for overlock or overlock/chainstitch combo The machine can be set up for finishing the fabric edge with fabric cut with just a few movements. Prerequisite: • Looper cover is opened. > Set the «Upper looper on/off» to position «I». (see page 76) >...

  • Page 75: Setting The Cutting Width

    Machine settings > Pull «Knife on» to the front. – The knife lifts up to the cutting position. Setting the cutting width The cutting width for the knife position can be adjusted between 5 - 9 mm. The numbers on the scale correspond with the actual cutting width in mm from the left overlock needle «LN»...

  • Page 76: Setting The Upper Looper On/Off

    Machine settings 7.4 Setting the upper looper on/off Activating the upper looper Prerequisite: • The looper cover and the threader cover are opened. > Set the «Upper looper on/off» to position «I». > Press the foot control. – The pulse drive is performed. –...

  • Page 77: Upper Looper Converter Hooked In/Hooked Out

    Machine settings 7.5 Upper looper converter hooked in/hooked out By hooking in the upper looper converter, the upper looper grabs the lower looper thread so that it covers the entire fabric edge. Prerequisite: • The needles are in the top position. •...

  • Page 78: Adjusting The Thread Tension

    Machine settings 7.6 Adjusting the thread tension The thread tension has a considerable influence on each individual thread and its task to perform the stitch formation. The thread tension is preset for each stitch with a default value and does not have to be changed until the test sewing.
  • Page 79 Machine settings > Each individual thread tension can be adjusted between 1 and 9 using the fine adjustment keys «+/-». The alteration of the thread tension is visible on the screen. Optimizing the thread tension for cover stitches The thread tension should be reduced in the smallest possible steps from the basic value. A blue ribbon indicates that the set value is in the experimental range.

  • Page 80: Adjusting The Differential Feed

    Machine settings 7.7 Adjusting the differential feed The differential feed prevents unwanted seam puckering or seam waves in knitted or stretchy fabrics as well as shifting of fabric layers. The rear feed dog always maintains the same speed, while the front feed dog can be adjusted.
  • Page 81 Machine settings For default value 1, both feed dogs move by the same distance. The machine achieves an optimal sewing result for most applications regarding flat and even seams in the default value. Ruffling/Gathering 1,5 - 2 The front feed dog with the setting value 2 travels a longer distance than the rear feed dog at the constant speed.
  • Page 82 Machine settings Gather to fit This setting for gathering can also be used to deliberately ruffle the material and helps to reduce seam waves. > To prevent waving, increase the differential feed to a value between 1 and 2. Stretching 0,7 The front feed dog with the setting value 0,7 travels a shorter distance than the rear feed dog.

  • Page 83: Setting The Rolled Hem Selection Lever "O/R

    Machine settings 7.8 Setting the rolled hem selection lever «O/R» The adjustment positions for overlocking «O» and rolled hems «R» are marked in the stitch plate and can be set for the desired application. Overlocking «O» During overlocking, the upper and lower looper threads are laid around the stitch finger and this creates an even distance to the cut edge.

  • Page 84: Setting The Mtc Micro Thread Control

    Machine settings 7.9 Setting the mtc micro thread control By default mtc micro thread control is always set to position «0». mtc micro thread control affects the amount of looper threads around the fabric edge and can be adjusted continuously during sewing. This feature makes it easy to achieve the look of the stitch at any given cutting width.

  • Page 85: Setting The Presser Foot Pressure

    Machine settings 7.10 Setting the presser foot pressure The presser foot pressure of the machine is set in the default value "4" so that it is suitable for sewing medium-weight fabrics. Most materials do not require any adjustment of the presser foot pressure. However, there are some cases where an adjustment is necessary, for example when sewing very light and heavy fabrics.

  • Page 86: Adjusting The Stitch Width

    Machine settings 7.11 Adjusting the stitch width • Needle position • Cutting width Changing the stitch width via the needle position The stitch width can vary by the choice of needle position by 2 mm. > To sew a wide stitch, insert the left needle. >...

  • Page 87: Threading

    Threading Threading Due to the one-step BERNINA air threader, no specific sequence is required for threading the machine. Needle System ELx705 Flat Side LN RN LC CC RC OVERLOCK COVER COMBO LN RN LC CC RC RC LN RN...

  • Page 88: Preparing For Threading

    Threading 8.1 Preparing for threading Perform the required mechanical settings for the stitch e.g. needle position, rolled hem selection lever and upper looper converter. Correct threading is ensured when following the color markings. Prerequisite: • Retractale thread guide fully extended. •...

  • Page 89: One-Step Bernina Air Threader

    Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes, resulting in permanent blocking of the pipes. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. Avoid use of coated or waxed threads. The setting for the air threading is made by turning the air threader connection.

  • Page 90: Threading The Looper Threads Ul/Blue, Ll/Red, Cl/Purple

    Threading Threading the looper threads UL/blue, LL/red, CL/purple Depending on the stitch, the upper looper (blue), the lower looper (red) and/or the chain looper (purple) are threaded. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. > Open the threader cover and the looper cover. >...

  • Page 91: Threading The Looper Thread With An Auxiliary Thread

    Threading Threading the looper thread with an auxiliary thread The use of an auxiliary thread makes sense if a looper thread cannot be threaded automatically with the air threader. Prerequisite: • «The threading preparation» has been performed. (see page 88) > Open the threader cover and the looper cover. >...

  • Page 92: Circumventing The Air Theader

    Threading Circumventing the air theader Some thick or decorative threads cannot be threaded through the air threader nozzle or don't provide optimal stitch formations when these threads are threaded through the air threader pipes. Alternatively, such threads may be threaded through the air threader circumvention. This reduces the friction in the air threader pipes and results in a lower thread tension.
  • Page 93 Threading > Tie the end of the auxiliary thread to the special thread from the air threader circumvention eye. > Pull the auxiliary thread until the knot emerges out of the looper eye. > Cut the knot. – The special thread is threaded as the new looper thread. >...

  • Page 94: Using The Threading Wire

    Damage by improper use of the threading wire NOTICE The air threader pipes may be damaged. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. > Insert and pull through the threading wire only in the thread flow direction. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 95: Threading The Needle Thread

    Threading 8.3 Threading the needle thread For the needles color-coded threading paths are assigned. Threading the overlock needle thread LN/yellow The thread path for the left overlock needle is marked in yellow. For a combostitch with the left overlock needle LN, the green thread path is to be used. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 96: Threading The Overlock Needle Thread Rn/Green

    Threading Threading the overlock needle thread RN/green The thread path for the right overlock needle is marked in green. For a combostitch with the left overlock needle LN, the green thread path is to be used. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 88) •...

  • Page 97: Threading The Coverstitch Needle Thread Left Lc/Yellow

    Threading Threading the coverstitch needle thread left LC/yellow The thread path for the left coverstitch needle is marked in yellow. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 88) • The presser foot is swung out. (see page 43) > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and through the yellow marking of the thread deflection finger (1).

  • Page 98: Threading The Coverstitch Needle Thread Center Cc/Green

    Threading Threading the coverstitch needle thread center CC/green The thread path for the center coverstitch needle is marked in green. For a chainstitch with the center cover needle CC, the yellow thread path is to be used. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 88) •...

  • Page 99: Threading The Right Coverstitch Needle Thread Rc/Blue

    Threading Threading the right coverstitch needle thread RC/blue The thread path for the right coverstitch needle is marked in blue. For a chainstitch using the right coverstitch needle RC the yellow thread path is to be used. Prerequisite: • «Preparing for threading» has been performed. (see page 88) •...

  • Page 100: Changing The Thread

    Threading 8.4 Changing the thread Tying on threads is often used for changing needle thread or looper thread. (see page 101) Friction can be reduced by keeping the knotted area as tight as possible. NOTICE Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye The needle can be bent.

  • Page 101: Changing The Needle Thread

    Threading Changing the needle thread Pulling a thread tie through the needle eye NOTICE The needle can be bent. A bent needle affects the stitch formation. > Cut the tie in front of the needle eye and thread the needle individually. >...

  • Page 102: Changing The Looper Thread

    Threading Changing the looper thread > Cut the thread above the thread cone. > Change the thread cone. > Tie the inserted looper thread to the new thread. > Pull the end of the thread out of the looper eye until the knot emerges. >...

  • Page 103: Sewing Test

    Sewing test Sewing test To check the optimal setting, a test sample should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the sewing test, adjustments for stitch optimization are possible after the sewing test.

  • Page 104: Stitch Optimizer

    Sewing test > Sew beyond the fabric end such that a thread chain is formed. > Raise the presser foot. > Pull the sewing project to the back left and pull the threads over the thread cutter. – The seam end is secured. >...

  • Page 105: Practical Overlocking

    10 Practical overlocking In this chapter the most important applications for a successful sewing project are described. More advanced sewing techniques are described in the BERNINA Overlocker Reference book and can be purchased from specialist retailers. 10.1 Securing overlock stitches The stitches are secured when they are overstitched.

  • Page 106: Securing Overlock Stitches

    Practical overlocking Securing overlock stitches > Sew a thread chain of about 10 cm beyond the end of the seam. > Pull the thread chain end through the looper threads using a loop flip or a tapestry needle. Knotting the overlock chain >...

  • Page 107: Securing Cover- And Chainstitches

    Practical overlocking > Remove the left overlock needle thread in the same way. – The looper threads lie around the fabric edge and can be removed easily. 10.3 Securing cover- and chainstitches The stitches are secured when they are overstitched. Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not integrated with other seams or hems.

  • Page 108: Undoing Coverstitches

    Practical overlocking 10.4 Undoing coverstitches Coverstitches are loops of looper thread and needle thread. > On the wrong side of the fabric, pull the looper thread out of the thread chain at the seam end. > Remove the needle threads on the right side of the fabric. –...

  • Page 109: Sew Blanket Stitch

    Practical overlocking 10.6 Sew blanket stitch The Blanketstitch is similar to the popular Parisian stitch and suits as edge finishing on woollen blankets, scarves or thick materials. > Preferably thread decorative threads into the looper and the needle. > Place water-soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric along the fabric edge. >...

  • Page 110: Gathering

    Practical overlocking 10.7 Gathering Ruffling is a gathering or puckering of a seam. Increasing the differential feed > Set the machine for a 4-Thread Overlock stitch. > Set the differential feed to «2». > Set the stitch length to «4,5». >...

  • Page 111: Sew Outer Corners

    Practical overlocking 10.8 Sew outer corners Method 1 > Set the machine for a 2-, 3- or 4-Thread Overlock. > Sew along the edge of the fabric beyond the corner. > Start a new edge and sew over the previously sewn edge. >...

  • Page 112: Sew Inner Corners

    Practical overlocking 10.9 Sew inner corners > Set the machine for a 2- or 3-Thread Overlock. > Draw sewing lines on both sides of the corner about 5 cm long with the fabric pen. > Sew the seam until the knife reaches the corner. >...

  • Page 113: Sewing Inner Curves

    Practical overlocking > Lower the presser foot and continue sewing. 10.10 Sewing inner curves Inner curves appear on necklines, facings and armholes. Time-consuming clipping or trimming can be avoided by overlocking the fabric edge. > Set the machine for a 3- or 4-Thread Overlock. >...

  • Page 114: Sewing A Hem

    Practical overlocking > Turn the fabric away from the presser foot to the left. > Lower the presser foot and sew over and beyond the fabric. 10.12 Sewing a hem Coverstitch is ideal for hems in stretchy and knit material. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 115: Flat Joining Seams

    Practical overlocking 10.13 Flat joining seams > Thread and set the machine for a cover- or chainstitch. > Adjust the stitch length suitable for the fabric. > Place the fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. > Sew the seam. >...

  • Page 116: Care And Maintenance

    Care and maintenance 11 Care and maintenance 11.1 Firmware Selecting a language By selecting one of the languages listed, all displays and assistance are changed accordingly. (see page 27)

  • Page 117: Information On The Firmware

    Care and maintenance Information on the firmware This screen allows the dealer to gather important information about the machine. «Firmware version» «Service data» «Dealer data»...

  • Page 118: Restore Factory Settings

    Care and maintenance Restore factory settings The factory settings are used to reset the software to the delivery state. All saved data will be deleted and cannot be restored. If the data from the personal memory should still be available, it must be backed up to the USB stick.

  • Page 119: Updating Firmware

    In general, data from the personal memory and altered settings are automatically transferred during a firmware update. Data loss can be avoided by backing up data and settings to the BERNINA USB stick before the update and importing them back to the machine after the update.

  • Page 120: Calibrate Screen

    Incomplete update due to removing the BERNINA USB stick too early If the software has not been updated or has not been fully updated, the machine cannot be used. > Remove the BERNINA USB stick only once the update has been successfully completed. > Import the saved data, if available.

  • Page 121: Machine

    Cleaning the machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. The machine can be cleaned with a damp cloth without detergent. Based on normal household use, an annual service at a certified BERNINA dealer is recommended.

  • Page 122: Cleaning The Air Threader Pipes

    Damage by fluids in the air threader system The air threader pump may be damaged permanently if liquids infiltrate the system. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. > Protect the air threader nozzles from liquids. Regularly remove dust and thread remnants from the air threader pipes.

  • Page 123: Cleaning The Screen

    Cleaning the suction feet prevents the machine from slipping on the table at high sewing speed. > Remove dust and thread remnants from the suction feet with a damp cloth. Oiling the machine > After frequent use, lubricate the upper looper joint with 1 ─ 2 drops of the supplied BERNINA overlock oil.

  • Page 124: Errors And Faults

    Errors and faults 12 Errors and faults 12.1 Troubleshooting Fault Cause Solution Screen reacts poorly to touch Screen is misaligned > Calibrate the screen. (see page 120) The stitch is irregular The thread tension is incorrect. > Adjust the thread tension. (see page 78) The needle size is incorrect.
  • Page 125 Errors and faults Fault Cause Solution Thread breakage Threading is incorrect. > Rethread the machine. (see page 87) The needle is bent. > Insert a new needle. (see page 45) The thread tension is incorrect. > Adjust the thread tension. (see page 87) The upper thread is tangled.

  • Page 126: Storage And Disposal

    If the machine is no longer required, dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way in accordance with the national guidelines or take it to the nearest BERNINA specialist shop. Do not dispose of the machine in the household waste.

  • Page 127: Technical Data

    Technical data 14 Technical data Name Value Unit Number of stitches Number of loopers Number of needle positions 1 − 5 Needle system ELx705 CF Needle size 70 − 90 (10 − 14) Differential feed 0,7 − 2 Maximum fabric thickness 6 (0,41) mm (in) Stitch length...

  • Page 128: Index

    Index Index Dealer data .................   117 Defective needle ..............  65 Accessories box extension with accessories ......  26 Deleting a stitch..............  73 Accessories box standard with accessories......  25 Differential feed..............  80 Accessories storage...............   17 Disposing of the machine............   126 Adjusting the screen brightness ..........  57 Adjusting the sewing speed ..........
  • Page 129 Index Home screen.................   31 Household spools..............  38 Personal memory ..............  72 Personalize the sewing screen ..........  58 Power cable connection ............  18 Importing data..............  119 Power switch ................   18 Information on the firmware version ......  58,  117 Press the foot control............  41 Presser foot lifter..............
  • Page 130 Index Stitch plate ................  14 Stitch selection..............  71 Storage................  126 Stretching ................  82 Swinging the presser foot in/out ...........   43 Thread cutter ............  13,  19,  52 Thread deflection fingers ............  13 Thread guide on the headframe ...........   13 Thread guide on the needle holder ........  14 Thread guiding plate ............
  • Page 132 BERNINA International AG | CH-8266 Steckborn Switzerland | www.bernina.com | © Copyright by BERNINA International AG 1026025.10A.04 2020-04...

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