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Summary of Contents for Aeronaut The Hansa-Jolle
- Page 1 Order No. 3011/00 Building instructions in English can be downloaded from our website: www.aero-naut.com Vous pouvez télécharger la notice de construction à parti de notre site web: www.aero-naut.fr...
- Page 2 Actually the term Jolle (yawl) is not correct, as the Hansa-Jolle's integral ballast keel, fixed fin and draught of 50 cm ranks it as a centreboard boat.
- Page 3 Please read right through these instructions before starting construction, so that you always have a clear idea of the next stage. These instructions assume that you are familiar with the proper use of modelling tools, materials and adhesives. If this is not so, please ask an experienced modeller for guidance.
- Page 4 Construction of the model itself starts with the assembly of the internal hull framework, which consists of three sections: - the bow section with a central keel extending as far as the cabin, - the midship section including the cabin and the cockpit, with two keels, - and the stern section with a single keel and a deck beam running from the cockpit to the stern.
- Page 5 Some frames have to be fitted with 4 x 4 mm reinforcing rails at specific locations: these parts are cut from the 1000 mm long spruce strips in the kit; the instructions state the actual length and position of each one.
- Page 6 The next step is to glue the pairs of parts together to form the stern deck bearer (36) and the stern keel (33). The parts are as follows: - the keel plate (33) - the stern deck bearer plate (36) Glue these parts together using the procedure outlined above.
- Page 7 Attach the bow-side reinforcing rail (19) to frame 5, part (18). This rail (19) is 165 mm long and is fitted flush with the top edge, as is the reinforcement on the other side. Now yet the stern-face reinforcement (20) to part (18). The reinforcing rail (20) is 206 mm long.
- Page 8 The illustration alongside shows the position of the bow-side reinforcing rails (13) and (14) on frame 7, part (12). Rails are only fitted to one face of this frame. Note that the upper rail is not fitted until the side panels have been fitted.
- Page 9 The next step is to assemble the removable door. The parts are all flush on the rear surface. The in-fill panels (53 and 55) can be sanded slightly thinner on the back surface, so that they are recessed relative to the door frame components.
- Page 10 Insert the deck bearer (10) in the slots in the frames, parts (7), (8) and (9), and glue the parts together. The deck bearer (10) is also glued to the stem (6) at the front. Check that all these parts finish flush with each other.
- Page 11 Now fit the second side panel, part (25), on the starboard (right-hand) side, and glue all the joints. Once the side panels (24 and 25) are in place, the final reinforcing rail (13) (length 204 mm) can be fitted through the square holes and glued to part (12). The rail should only be glued to part (12) outside the cabin side panels.
- Page 12 The front cabin panel (38) can now be inserted between the cabin sides (24 and 25) at the front, but do not glue it at this stage. The front panel should not be glued in place until frame 8, part (26), is fitted and glued in place.
- Page 13 The next step is to fit the prepared sub-assemblies in the hull, but first the exact position of frame 1, part (34), has to be determined: position the frame in the stern with its bottom edge resting in the bottom corner of the hull shell.
- Page 14 Detail view of the area between the bow and centre section sub-assemblies at part (26), looking towards the stern. The keel component (33), which has already been 'doubled', can now be trimmed to fit in the stern: it must fit flush at the front in the slot of frame 3, part (30), and rest against the angled face of the inside of the transom at the stern.
- Page 15 The next step is to assemble the cockpit bench-seat. The seat / backrest unit is removable, providing access to the interior of the hull behind it. Once again parts have to be 'doubled' - glued together in pairs - in order to produce the thickness required. As mentioned earlier, it is essential that these parts are clamped together and kept perfectly straight while the glue is hardening.
- Page 16 The next step is to install the bearers for the deck- fittings for the stays and shrouds; these parts are cut from 8 x 8 mm spruce strip. The bearer (46) at the bow is 40 mm long, and should be glued in place in the position shown in the drawing.
- Page 17 The stringers are fitted next; they are cut from the 4 x 4 mm spruce strip material supplied. The first step is to install the two outer stringers (39) along the edge of the deck: start by fitting the stringers 'dry' (without glue) at the bow, and work steadily towards the stern.
- Page 18 The stringers (41) are fitted to the stern next. These parts extend from frame 1, i.e. part (34) as far as frame 3, part (30). At both ends they should be trimmed carefully to fit flush; check that they butt up against the seat backrest.
- Page 19 The next step is to install the centreboard (61). Fit the centreboard through the machined slot in the keel and into the case (slot) formed by the frames: push it in as far as it will go; check that it engages in the slots previously cut in the hardwood bearers.
- Page 20 The braces at the bow end of the cabin should be 80 18 mm mm long, and also end flush with the bottom edge of the side panels. The strips should be glued under the top corners of the front cabin panel, as shown in the drawing;...
- Page 21 Here we see the method of installing RC plate 2, part (64): insert the plate's locating tabs in the slots in frame 7, part (12). This stiffens the frame, and secures the RC plate on the other side of it. RC installation plate 2, part (64), can and should be screwed to its support rails, so that it is secure, but can be removed at any time.
- Page 22 Glue the snake outer to its various contact points with the frames, using glue sparingly. The roof frame comes next. This assembly consists of the two side panels (69), the front former (70), the rear former (71) and the centre former (72).
- Page 23 When the glue has set hard, you can resume work with the cabin roof (73). As the roof panel has to be curved, there is a danger that it will split along its engraved lines; you can avoid this either by moistening the top surface or by applying low-tack paper masking tape to the top surface, running from side to side.
- Page 24 The next stage is to fit the deck and thereby enclose the hull, but before this the plastic funnel (79) must be fitted in the stern opening to prevent the ingress of water. Cut off the funnel (79) at an angle at the wide end, as shown in the drawing, and drill a 4 mm Ø...
- Page 25 We continue now with the installation of the RC system components in the cabin: the first step here is to install all three servos. The rectangular openings are designed for standard-sized units, but if you prefer to fit servos with different dimensions, simply adjust the openings to suit.
- Page 26 Since the RC components are not required for the next stage of construction, and may interfere with the next stage, we recommend that you temporarily remove them at this point. Remove the rudder and the cockpit floor plates at the same time, as they will soon be in the way.
- Page 27 A view of the mast base area. Glue the base plate (106) of the tabernacle to the deck (100) as shown; insert the mast clamp at the same time, as shown in the drawing, and secure it temporarily with a screw-clamp. Push the mast clamps (101) through the base plate (106) and into the slots in the deck as shown;...
- Page 28 The boom (109) can now be drilled to accept the various fittings. Note that the holes at both ends should be exactly central, while the other stated dimensions are measured from the end which faces the mast. The wooden cleat (110) for the boom features two spigots which must be rounded off to fit the 2 mm Ø...
- Page 29 The boom is attached to the mast by means of the gooseneck fitting, which consists of the ring-screws (80) and the pivot pin (117), as shown in the drawings alongside. Fit the ring-screws and the S-hook (116) in the mast heel.
- Page 30 The 810 mm stay (112) with the five stay rings and the Mast (108) two 800 mm shrouds (112) can now be attached to the boat prior to bending (fitting) the sails. Start at the mast (108) by fitting the ring-screws (80) to which the steel cables (112) are attached.
- Page 31 The mainsail (119) is bent to the mast in a similar Mainsail tack manner to the jib. The loops are connected at various points as follows: Connect the hole in the sail tack to the S-hook (116) of the gooseneck fitting. A lashing is fitted through the hole in the mainsail.
- Page 32 Attach the mainsail sheet (124) to the ring-screw (80) on the boom, then run it through the ring-screw (80) in the cockpit floor, and from there through the bead bush (95) in the cockpit wall. From the bead bush (95), route the sheet (124) to the appropriate servo output arm (94) inside the cabin, and tie the cord to it.
- Page 33 Screw a brass cleat (111) to the deck at the stern, as at the bow. Re-install the rudder, and fit the bench-seat. Two further deck rails (137) should be cut from 3 x 3 mm spruce strip and glued to the deck at the positioned marked by the red line in this drawing.
- Page 34 Component Quant. Thick n. Width Length Material Order No. Boatstand end-plate, bow 3.00 Polycarbonate Ready made Boatstand end-plate, stern 3.00 Polycarbonate Ready made Boatstand connecting tube 8.00 500.00 Aluminium tube Felt 10.00 490.00 Felt Die-cut strip Hull shell 2.00 Polystyrene Ready made Keel / stem, bow 2.00...
- Page 35 Component Quant. Thick n. Width Length Material Order No. Roof frame, front former 2.00 Birch ply Laser-cut Roof frame, rear former 2.00 Birch ply Laser-cut Roof frame, centre former 2.00 Birch ply Laser-cut Cabin roof 2.00 Obechi Laser-cut Cabin hatch footway 3.00 4.00 150.00...
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