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Do Not use a chimney that is unlined or damaged! If you have any question regarding the condition of the chimney,
consult a qualified licensed contractor, qualified engineer, competent mason, certified Chimney Sweep, or a knowledgeable
inspector. Consult your insurance company if you cannot find a qualified expert. Many prefabricated fireplaces are of the
"zeroclearance fireplace" category. These consist of multi layered metal construction. They are designed with
enough insulation and/or air cooling on the base, back and sides so they can be safely installed in direct contact with
combustible floors and walls. Although many prefabricated fireplaces carry endorsements from nationally recognized
organizations for use as fireplaces, they have not been tested for connection to wood stove heaters. Connecting a stove
to such a device will void the manufacturer's warranty. Venting a stove directly into a fireplace does not meet code and
should not be attempted. The stove warranty will be void with such an installation. Do not create a hazard in your home
by connecting in this manner.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ROUTE THE CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PIPE THROUGH THE THROAT OF THE FIREPLACE.
Directly connecting the stovepipe into the existing masonry chimney (figure 14 "Type A" Fireplace Conversion) of the
fireplace is the ONLY approved method of installation. This is a complicated and involved process and to ensure safety
should only by done by a qualified installer.
1. An entry hole must be cut through the masonry and tile liner with minimal damage to the liner. At least 8"
2. of liner must remain below the entry position. When locating the stove and stovepipe, all minimum clearances must
be observed from combustible surfaces including mantels, combustible trim work, ceilings, and walls. Positioning the
center of the stove pipe entry into the chimney 24" below the ceiling should insure proper clearance for a 6" stovepipe.
3. Install a fire clay (5/8" minimum thickness) thimble. Make sure the thimble is flush with the inner surface of the chimney
liner and does not protrude into the flue (see figure 10 on page 9).
4. Secure the thimble with refractory mortar. The
5. thimble should be surrounded by 12" of solid unit masonry brickwork or 24" of stone.
6. Install the stovepipe into the thimble as far as possible without extending past the flue lining (see figures 9 & 10 on
pages 8 & 9).
7. A small airspace (about 1/2") should remain between the stovepipe and thimble to allow for expansion of the pipe.
Seal this airspace with hightemperature caulking or ceramic wool.
8. Secure and seal the damper in the closed position using high-temp caulking, ceramic wool, or furnace cement. Also
check to see if the chimney has a clean out. If it does, make sure it is closed and sealed as well. A leaky clean out
will greatly reduce draft efficiency.
If you have any questions regarding venting your stove, contact the manufacturer or contact the National Fire Protection
Association (NFPA) and request a copy of the latest editions of NFPA Standard 211 and NFPA Standard 908. Their address
is: Battery March Park, Quincy, MA 02269.
Figure 13 - Chimney Connection to Firebox
through Masonry Wall
CHIMNEY CONNECTIONS
NOT ALL FIREPLACE CHIMNEYS ARE SUITABLE FOR CONVERSION TO
ACCOMMODATE A WOOD STOVE. CHECK WITH A QUALIFIED EXPERT.
CAUTION:
Fig. 14 - Fireplace Conversion
11
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