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stack is prelocated by the hole in the
laser-cut sub-deck. Glue the britannia
casting stack in position (Figure 5-10).
10. Hatches, Scuttle, and Gratings
Note that the coamings should be installed
before deck planking. Refer to Stage 2.
Figure 5-11 illustrates the hatch and scut-
tle details. Make from walnut stripwood.
Notice that the inside face of the coam-
ings is 3/64" out from the laser-cut sub-
deck openings. A separate 3/64" ledge
piece is glued on the inside of the coam-
ings to support the hatch covers and
grating. This sits on the sub-deck also.
Cut the depth of the ledge piece so that
the hatch covers and grating will be flush
with the top of the hatch coamings.
The hatch lift cover rings are made from
eyebolts and 1/8" split rings provided
in the kit.
The galley hatch grating is machine-cut
boxwood strips, assembled like an egg
crate. Cut the strips to length before
assembly. Assemble the grating on a piece
of tape to hold it together. Then, take a
toothpick and touch a small amount of
Cyano to each joint. After the glue dries
sand the top of the grating smooth and
use a small needle file to clean out any
glue that got into the openings. Fit into
the coaming on top of the ledge piece
(Figure 5-12).
11. Ladders
Make the two small ladders at the quarter
deck from walnut stripwood (Figure 5-13).
12. Pumps
The pumps on the real ship are wood, so
for ultra-realism they should be wood on
the model. The barrel is made from the
walnut dowel included in the kit. The
metal bands around the pump could be
1/64" x 1/16" brass strips included in the
kit, paper, or even a black painted stripe.
The handle bracket is laser-cut, but you
need to saw a slot in the top for the han-
dle. Make the handles from stripwood.
The rod at the end of the handle is
0.020" brass wire. Fit the barrel through
a hole the in the deck (precut in the sub-
deck) (Figure 5-14).
13. Riding Bitts
The bitts forward of the mast are built
from walnut stripwood. Insert these in
the square holes in the deck These were
already cut into the laser-cut sub-deck,
and you should have left the openings
when applying the deck planks
(Figure 5-15).
These bitts are called riding bitts or
anchor bitts, since their major function,
along with the belaying lines, was to
secure the anchor cable. The bitts were
used before the windlass was invented.
FIG. 5-14 BUILDING THE PUMPS
WIRE
OUTLET
BRASS STRAP OR
PAPER STRIP
DOWEL
FIG. 5-15 RIDING BITTS
NOTCH BITT ONLY
NOTCH BITT
& RAIL
NOTCH RAIL ONLY
FIG. 5-16 RUDDER PINTLES & GUDGEONS
MODEL OPTION
PINTLE
PIN & CUT OFF
OPTION – GLUE
STRAP ONLY
RECESS PINTLE
23
SAW SLOT FOR HANDLE
LASER CUT HANDLE
BRACKET
HOLE IN DECK
SOLDER OR GLUE
PIN
CAN OMIT ON
MODEL
GUDGEON
INTO RUDDER
CROSS PIECE
OR RAIL
BITT
HOLE IN DECK
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