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T H E A M E R I C A N F I S H I N G S C H O O N E R
BENJAMIN W. LATHAM
The northward spring migrations of the Ameri-
can mackerel (Scomber scombrus, L.) gave rise
to one of the most interesting and speculative
facets of the New England fisheries in the sec-
ond half of the 19th century and the early
decades of the 20th. Many methods were devel-
oped to capture these wily and unpredictable
fish, the most successful being the purse-seine,
a large net which was set in a ring around a
mackerel school and then closed by "pursing,"
or drawing its bottom edge together with a
"purse line," thus forming a bag from which
the trapped fish were baled with large dipnets.
The development of the purse-seine also led to
the development of the seine boat, a large double-
ended boat from which the net was set. This boat
supposedly evolved from the New Bedford whale
boat in both form and construction, but was soon
modified and enlarged as seine nets became larg-
er. Attendant to this technology was a wide vari-
ety of boat and net gear of special design. Because
the schooners themselves were specially rigged
and fitted for these operations, they assumed a
distinctive appearance.
Technical Characteristics
Scale: 1/4" = 1 ft. ( 1: 48 )
Length: 33"
Width: 5-1/2"
Height: 28"
Manufactured by
Model Shipways
Kit No. MS 2109
(Continued on page 3)
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Table of Contents
Related Manuals for Model Shipways BENJAMIN W. LATHAM MS2109
Summary of Contents for Model Shipways BENJAMIN W. LATHAM MS2109
- Page 1 Scale: 1/4” = 1 ft. ( 1: 48 ) Length: 33” Width: 5-1/2” Height: 28” Manufactured by Model Shipways Kit No. MS 2109 BENJAMIN W. LATHAM The northward spring migrations of the Ameri- The development of the purse-seine also led to can mackerel (Scomber scombrus, L.) gave rise...
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Page 2: Introduction/Credits
Shipmodeller’s Jackstay and its excellent references. These and other books are listed in the bibliography at the end of this manual. ©Copyright 2005 Model Expo, A Divisions of Model Shipways, Inc. 3850 N 29th Terrace • Hollywood, FL 33020 www.modelexpo-online.com... -
Page 3: Brief History Cover
(continued from front cover) The schooners of the mackerel fleet varied considerably in size at the end of the 19th century. Prior to 1880, vessels suitable for this work usually measured 60-80 tons, but with the introduction of new hull types and incentives to increase the sizes of new schooners, the early 1900’s saw schooners of 120 tons, and more, being fitted out for mackerel seining. -
Page 4: Table Of Contents
CONSTRUCTION STAGES AND TABLE OF CONTENTS Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction Pg 24 Brief History Cover, pg 3 1. General Information Pg 24 Introduction/Credits Pg 2 2. The Importance of Scale Pg 24 Before You Begin Pg 5 3. Tapering Masts & Spars Pg 24 How to Work With the Plans &... -
Page 5: Before You Begin
BEFORE YOU BEGIN This kit differs from most in that its large scale (1/4” = 1 ft.) will permit the model maker to fabricate or “scratch build” most parts with great accuracy, and in some cases, duplicate full-size construction or techniques in miniature. For this rea- son, the “hows”... -
Page 6: How To Work With The Plans & Parts
HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS AND PARTS 3. Understanding the Hull Lines Before starting model construction, examine the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit will Beginners may not be familiar with hull lines. They are shown serve two purposes. -
Page 7: What You'll Need To Start Construction
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION The following tools and supplies are recommended for the Silver Solder: If extra strength is desired, and also to construction process. Modelers who have built before may have avoid the lead in softer solder, silver solder can be used. their own favorites. -
Page 8: Painting & Staining The Model
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL aerosol cans which can give quite good results. Test them on a wood block as previously described before using them on the model. It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with direc- tions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time Brush painting: Painting with fine, soft-bristle brushes is prob- and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be ably best for the beginner. - Page 9 Grub (or Great) Beam: often painted white for visibility at FIG. 1b – Scribing the Waterline night. Pencil Deck: could be light grey, although some vessels’ decks were or scriber painted Pea Green. Sometimes great circles were swept around the quarter bitts, at the grub beam, and abreast the foremast. The color used for the deck was then painted within the radii (see perspectives drawings on sheet 3 or 4––these are the dark areas shown on the deck around fiferails, windlass, and along...
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Page 10: Stage A: Framing The Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull
FIG. 1c – Assembling the Two Center Keel Pieces STAGE A Wax paper or plastic wrap FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL Building 1. Bending Wood board or table Building a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twist- ing of the wood parts which must remain in the desired posi- Glue joint tion so as not to put too much stress on glue joints and fasten- Weight (Approx 2#) -
Page 11: Installing The Bulkheads
FIG. 5 – Fore & Aft Bevel of Stanchions The top of the sternpost requires a slight recess where the rud- der stock will be located. Carve this in before installing the sternpost (also see figure 3). Sanding block Option: You can add the keel-stem and sternpost before cut- 3/16”bulkhead ting the rabbet. -
Page 12: Installing The Transom
FIG. 8 – Checking the Fairness of the Hull Form Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood Sand flush with top of batten about 3/32”... -
Page 13: Installing Horn Timber Cheeks
8. Installing Horn Timber Cheeks FIG. 11 – Installing the Transom From just forward of the hull/sternpost intersection to the Make template for transom, fit a 1/8”-square piece between each bulkhead on correct transom angle both sides. These “cheek” pieces are located slightly more than 1/16”... -
Page 14: Stage B: Planking The Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull
FIG. 14 – Planking with Stealers STAGE B PLANKING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL Stealer 1. Getting Started The planking process is tedious and you should plan on spend- ing some time doing the job. Work on each plank as a project unto itself. -
Page 15: Spiling
FIG. 18 – Sloping the Plank Edges A plank length approximately 6 inches will cover four bulk- head spaces. This is a comfortable length to handle for this model. To scale, it is a plank 24 feet long. However, to avoid BOW AREA having very short pieces at the bow and stern, you may need Planksheer... - Page 16 FIG. 19 – First Two Strakes in Place Start “B” “K” “J” “G” “F” FIG. 20a – Planking Nibs at Bow The next step is to cut planks to fit between the marks. Belt A will not require spiling, so straight tapered planks can be made.
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Page 17: Plank Variations Within A Belt
post. These two planks must have their edges sloped so they FIG. 20d – Planking the Transom FIG. 20e – The Cove meet flush (see figure 20b). Belt C also has some twists, so Bulwark steam bend them in place if necessary. plank Laying the Planks in Belt D: This belt will contain the garboard Hull plank... - Page 18 Hatch & Cabin Coamings: Before planking, you must decide FIG. 20h – Hatch & Cabin Coamings how you want to treat the hatch and cabin coamings. A recom- mended approach for doing it the way it was done on the real Hatch coaming ship, is to install all coamings first.
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Page 19: Stage C: Completing The Basic Hull Structure
Simply lift dimensions from the hull and cut the forward natural wood strips. When completed, sand and finish the hull & aft with Model Shipways oil or glaze, or tung oil. Finally, add a coat of wax and then polish it. Pedestal Shim to level... -
Page 20: Stage E: Adding The Hull Details
FIG. 23 – Railing at Main Deck Deck STAGE E Main rail ADDING THE HULL DETAILS Before beginning with the details, outline all topside items on the deck by marking their locations with a pencil. Take all mea- surements from the plans using tick strips. Proper locations should be measured from some firm “bench mark”... -
Page 21: Main Pinrails
FIG. 26 – Railing at Quarter Deck 6. Main Pinrails These are simple swellings of the main rail on its inboard sides Monkey log abreast of the main mast which hold the belaying (see lower right of figure 25). Note dimensions and their location on the Monkey rail hull plan. -
Page 22: Bowsprit
Chain whelp Use of blocks was common in older Model Shipways kits with Windlass head (iron) solid wood hulls. Each modeler is pretty much on his own as to Whelp stud how he wishes to make these deck furnishings. - Page 23 FIG. 32 – Assembling the Windlass & Bitt Support Mechanism FIG. 31 – Anchor Catted Rocker arm Clasp Samson post (wood) (2 castings) (wood) WINDLASS ASSEMBLY Cleat Windlass barrel (1 casting) Snatch cleat Rocker arm (1 casting) Quadrant Buffalo chock omitted Pivot (2 castings) (1 casting)
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Page 24: Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction
STAGE F and may be ignored by the novice, but not by the more experi- enced modeler. Above the crosstrees, the mast heads should taper more noticeably, but the “flats,” which accommodate the cheeks and trestletrees, make planing tricky. It is probably MAST &... -
Page 25: Lower Mast Fittings
FIG. 40 – Tapering Masts & Spars Now make and fit these members to the mast, securing them firmly with glue and pins. Allow them to dry firmly. Plane in this direction (Always with the grain) Meanwhile, fashion the spreaders from 1/16” x 3/32” strip- wood, tapered as directed on Sheet 4 of the plans. - Page 26 FIG. 44 – Throat Halyard Fittings FORE MAIN Iron band Iron crane Crane Spreader Iron “gate” Heart Iron heart iron Trestle tree Cheeks, P & S Shackles Upper Block halyard Topping lift eye blocks (These views looking forward) Ring or Lower spectacle iron...
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Page 27: Topmast Fittings
Mast caps: Originally of iron, these are supplied as metal cast- FIG. 46 – Fore Boom Goose Neck ings in the kit. But if you prefer to make your own, it is sug- gested that you make them of brass strips or short lengths of tubing, soldered together. -
Page 28: Gaffs & Booms
8. Gaffs & Booms FIG. 49 – Gaff & Boom Jaws Sharp edges Methods of tapering and shaping these spars are the same as for the masts. But, you must adapt their lengths and the posi- TOP VIEW tion of their fittings to suit the rigging and clear any fixed ob- TOP VIEW Carve, file structions. -
Page 29: Ironwork
10. Ironwork ures 55 and 57). First, fit the wooden jackstays onto both sides of the bowsprit along its upper outboard edges (see figure 56). Ironwork is somewhat more difficult to make for the gaffs and Drill them out for the jib stops (for locations see Rigging Plan booms than for the masts and bowsprit. - Page 30 FIG. 55 – Bobstay Irons FIG. 56 – Jib Stops Make wire staple; X-SECTION Wood jackstay form eyes at ends Figure-8 knot BASIC INSTALLATION Bobstay link Wire link Bowsprit Paper “strap” Wire staple MODIFIED FOR Glue on MODEL WORK Iron straps Drill hole &...
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Page 31: Stage G: General Rigging Information
In tinting standing rigging, it is suggested that you try thin These stretch, kink and never set up as tightly as you would down Model Shipways paints. Avoid a “jet black” color; even have them do. Such wire is always subject to minute tempera- blackened tar had a slight brownish tinge to it. -
Page 32: Using Beeswax
Paint will stiffen thread and oil stains will rot it. Stains made running off the hem. by Model Shipways Paints will work. But, they must be Next, run a line of machine stitches along the pencil lines thinned, or the line will be tinted too dark. -
Page 33: Rigging The Model With Sails
FIG. 60 – Serving FIG. 61a – Sail Tablings Fish hook or other swivel Option: secure line in a lathe, Margin 1/4” rotate lathe head by hand Vise or 3/16” Tie, touch with white glue when serve is complete Thread Cloth seams marked in pencil Twist... -
Page 34: Rigging The Model Without Sails
ly to the look of the model, especially at the forward stays Rigging & Block Sizes for Actual Size Vessel where the contrasting black stay and light running lines, along with their blocks, create interesting visual detail. On the plans, (To convert sizes to 1/4”... -
Page 35: Stage H: Standing Rigging
FIG. 66 – Locating the Chainplates STAGE H STANDING RIGGING As mentioned in the discussion under General Rigging Infor- mation, all lines for the standing rigging should be blackened in color. 1. Chainplates These fittings are one of the foundations for the standing rig- ging and should be considered carefully for this reason. - Page 36 FIG. 69 – Chainplates of Essex-Built Schooners Main rail Monkey Strap Monkey board Main rail rail Recess in Monkey monkey rail pierced Strap board Main rail Bolt pierced Bolt Cove Waist Waist Waist Cove Chain Cove plate Side of strap Chain plate Forge weld flush with hull...
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Page 37: Rigging The Bowsprit
figure 72a). This joining will form a single continuous line that If done properly, the chainplates should be recessed into the you can extend downward at both port and starboard in be- hull so they are flush with the hull planking. Their heads tween each of the two pairs of both masts. -
Page 38: Belaying Pin Racks
jumbo stay and its bridle was not so simple a matter. As you Setting Up the Deadeyes: Generally, the upper deadeyes may recall from earlier reading, the masts were raked aft should be set up to the shrouds so they line up parallel with slightly and sprung forward, making the procedure difficult. - Page 39 FIG. 74 – Line-up of Deadeyes FIG. 76 – Pin Rack Details Sheer pole Pin rack W.L. FIG. 75 – Deadeye Lanyards BROADSIDE END VIEW DETAIL OF LASHING Lark’s head knot Matthew Seizings Walker knot INBOARD TOP VIEW VIEW GENERAL VIEW FIG.
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Page 40: Stage I: Running Rigging
FIG. 81 – Stropping the Blocks STAGE I Cut & invert Make loop the twist larger than RUNNING RIGGING Ream holes block The running rigging lines are all beige in color. If you are going to apply beeswax to the lines, it is best to do it before rigging them. - Page 41 FIG. 83 – Fore & Jumbo Boom Tackles FIG. 84 – Main Sheet & Crotch Tackle Mast Pendant Hauling Ring hitch Hook To boom Belayed FIG. 85 – Fore & Jumbo Sheets FIG. 86a – Throat & Peak Halyards FORE SHEET JUMBO SHEET (Gaffs and masts omitted for clarity) (and later jumbo sheet)
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Page 42: Head Sail Rigging
It should be anticipated that some topsail gear will lead to the FIG. 86b – Main Mast (Gaffs and masts gaffs. Precise leads are described in a later paragraph. There is omitted for clarity) also a flag halyard to rig from the peak of the main gaff (refer to figure 54). - Page 43 FIG. 86c – Gill-Guy FIG. 88 – Balloon Sheet Leader FIG. 87 – Jumbo & Jib Halyards Wooden rod Blocks at mast head Ring, Main topmast shroud thimble or jib hank To head (rigger’s Thimble (seized) of sail Single becket preference) Adjustable block...
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Page 44: Bibliography
The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstay general catalog of Edson-made ship fittings with useful illus- Model Shipways, 1962. Describes modelwork of a general na- trations and specifications on ships’ hardware widely used on ture, drawing examples from many types of sailing ships. Con- fishing schooners at the time, particularly those built at Essex, tains some good hints on crafts techniques. - Page 45 Museums with important collections relative to the New England Fishing Industry: 1. Cape Ann Historical Association 27 Pleasant Street, Gloucester, Massachusetts 01930. Models, paintings, photographs, news clippings, artifact material on ex- hibit. Comprehensive library on Gloucester maritime history. 2. The Mariners Museum Newport News, Virginia 23606.
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Page 46: Acknowledgments
MODELER'S LOG ACKNOWLEDGMENTS In preparing this manual, it was important to collaborate with individuals whose firsthand knowledge of New Date Time Notes England fishing vessels could provide valuable insight necessary to the completion of this project. Each of the people contacted has taken great pains to preserve the subject matter in their area of expertise. - Page 48 MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes MODEL SHIPWAYS 3850 N 29th Terrace • Hollywood, FL 33020 www.modelexpo-online.com...
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