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wark stanchions. Drill and install the belaying
pins before installing the rails (Figure D-4).
Channels - Fit the channels on the outboard
side of the bulwarks (Figure D-5).
3. Forward Cabin Construction
Laser-cut sides and ends of the cabin are pro-
vided. The top beams are also laser- cut, but
need to be cut to length. Mark the centerline,
then cut off both ends.
Figure D-6 illustrates the cabin assembly.
After the top planks are completed, add the
galley chimney and the boat skids. The boat
is a casting. Place it on the skids and lash
down. The ladder on the aft side of the cabin
must be made from stripwood.
The window openings where glass will show
can be filled in with clear plastic sheet or with
wood and painted light blue or black.
4. Aft Companionway and
Skylight Construction
Figure D-7 shows the construction. Like the
forward cabin, the sides, ends, and top beams
are laser-cut parts. The bars for the skylight
and the windows can be wire but if a little
tedious for your taste, fill in the opening with
wood, paint the glass areas a light blue and
draw the bar lines on with ink.
5. Steering Gear Cover Box &
Steering Wheel Construction
The steering gear cover box is a simple
planked box with curved top. Add coamings
and top moulding similar to the cabins. The
wheel is a casting.
6. Hatches
Figure D-8 illustrates the basic construc-
tion of the hatches. All three hatches are
similar, just the overall size and number of
hatch cover panels vary. Note on the plan
that an option is to cover the hatches with
a canvas cover.
7. Quarter Bitts, Pump, & Binnacle
These three items are castings. Drill necessary
holes and install the fittings. The plan shows a
detail for lashing the binnacle to the deck. The
pump casting does not have the pump handle
which is portable. A handle can easily be made
if you want to include it on the pump casting.
The plan shows a detail of the handle.
8. Windlass and Bowsprit Bitt
The bowsprit bitt and the windlass are Britan-
nia castings. The bitt only has the windlass
pawl on the aft side. The crank and ratchet
arms can be made from scratch using brass or
wood. The windlass handles are portable so
can be omitted or installed if you like. The
connecting links can be made from wire and
fitted between the crank and ratchet arms
(Figure D-9).
FIG. D-1 KNIGHTHEADS & HAWSE TIMBERS
HAWSE TIMBERS
P/S
PLANKSHEER
FIG. D-2 CATHEADS
CAP RAIL
CLEAT
LASER
CUT
9. Anchor
The plan shows the anchor on the port side
but it could be placed on the starboard side.
The anchor and anchor stock are both cast-
ings. As an option you could make the stock
from wood especially if a natural finish is
desired. Fit the eyebolts in the deck for attach-
ing the anchor lashing lines. The plan shows
the anchor stowed. You could add the anchor
tackle from the cathead and leave it attached
to the anchor. The anchor cable is chain. Run
it through the hawse pipe and around the
windlass. The plan shows how the anchor
chain could have been laid on the deck ready
for letting go. You can use this approach or
simply lay the chain on deck in a coil.
8
HAWSE
PIPE
KNIGHTHEAD
P/S
DRILL
SHEAVE HOLES
EYEBOLT FOR
JIBBOOM SHROUD
SHAPE TO FIT FLUSH
AGAINST BULWARK
WATERWAY & PLANKSHEER
FIG. D-3 DOUBLERS
DOUBLER BLOCK
A
B
HOLE & LIP CASTING FOR
10. Fife Rails & Deck Eyebolts
Before adding the fife rails, it would be a good
idea to install the rigging eyebolts on the deck
around the foremast hole.
Each fife rails consist of a rail/bitt casting and
two round leg castings. Assemble the three
parts. Drill the holes in the rails and install the
belaying pins. Fit the fiferails in holes drilled
into the deck around each mast hole.
There are several eyebolts for rigging shown
on the deck plan. Install the eyebolts for the
fore yard halliards port and starboard and the
main boom sheet eyebolt on the bulwark
stanchion at centerline of the stern.
BLOCK ADDED
OR CARVED WHEN
CARVING BULWARK
CHISEL OUT BETWEEN
HOLES TO DEPTH OF
TACKLE LINE
SIMPLE HOLE FOR
FORE SHEET OR
SLOT & SHEAVE
MOORING PIPES
INBOARD & OUTBOARD
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