The kit of the Harriet Lane was developed in 1965 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota, New Jersey. The plans were drawn by James F. Berge. While the plans are reproduced from the original, the kit has been updated and reissued by Model Shipways, Inc., the owner and manufacturer of Model Shipways kits.
Paint: throughout instructions) corrosion problems. Many of these fittings 1. Paints will require final finishing before installing Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line 2. Primer on the model. of acrylic paints are available in the 3. Stain and Varnish recommended colors.
metal fittings. Lightly sand the primed glue is used. The stain will not penetrate dried sand and add spackle as necessary to get rid items. Use a spackling compound such as of any blemishes. glue and leave ugly white areas in the finish. Pic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches and You will be told how to mark the waterline Brushes &...
wood, about 3/32” square, and lay it on the FIG. A-2 CARVING BULWARKS hull at various locations. Dips and bumps in the hull will show up under the stick. 3. Carving the Bulwarks Make yourself a temporary cradle to secure the hull while carving.
the bulwarks forward. Holes will be required GLUE 2 FIG. B-4 DECKHOUSE FIG. B-5 PADDLE BOX in the deck and cabin for fittings such as fife LASER-CUT HALVES PILOT HOUSE WHEEL BOX TOGETHER rails, compass, davits, and vents. You will ROUND THE TOP PORTION CORNERS...
supports which are made from brass rod. FIG. B-7 CAP RAIL, KNIGHTHEADS, CATHEADS, & BOW RAIL Before installing the sponsons on the hull add the paddle box and the paddle wheel BOW RAIL CUT CHOCK frames (castings). Make sure the alignment is correct.
0.018" line - Use for lower shrouds, main GLUE, THEN FIG. E-2 BLOCK STROPS stay, fore stay, jibboom and bowsprit CUT-OFF ENDS AROUND shrouds, and slings for lower yards. A SPAR 4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines CLOVE HITCH WITH THREAD Before placing rigging lines on the model, TWIST run the line through a block of beeswax...
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Boom & Gaffs - The boom and gaff also FIG. F-4 YARD DETAILS taper, but the maximum diameter of each spar should be about one-third from its fore end. Like the yards, cut a shoulder at LOCATE EYEBOLTS FORWARD OF the outer end of these spars.
STAGE G: STANDING RIGGING 1. Shrouds & Backstays FIG. G-1 DEADEYES AT RAIL DEADEYE The lower shrouds and backstays are set up with deadeyes and lanyards at the rail NOTCH COVER and attached along the outside of the ship STRIP using chain plates.
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Jibboom Shrouds - These are port and 4. Mainmast Stays Main Topmast Stay - Seize the stay around the lower main topmast rigging starboard. Seize the outer end to the shoul- The name for the mainmast stays from the stop and set to an eyebolt on the aft side der at end of the jibboom and the inner lowest to the highest is mainstay, main of the foremast cap.
STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING 1. General Notes FIG. H-1 FORE YARD RIGGING Although the rig is simplified for this small scale model, there are a few rigging items missing or not clearly shown on the MAST CAP plans that are essential and must be added. They are a truss for the lower yard, and MAINSTAY parrels and halliards for the topsail and...
Check to see if any of the painted wooden 3. The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstay parts were marred or scratched during the rig- by George F. Campbell. Model Shipways, 1962. ging process and touch-up as necessary. Excellent visuals and background information on building models from kits.
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