Model Shipways 2003 Instruction Manual
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Model Shipways 2003 Instruction Manual

Baltimore clipper privateer, 1815
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B
B
ALTIMORE
!
ALTIMORE
!
Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford
Model prototype by Bob Werner
Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
M
M
ODELING
ODELING
D
D
APPER
APPER
C
C
LIPPER
LIPPER
Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, Florida
Model Shipways Kit No. 2003
T
T
HE
HE
T
T
OM
OM
P
P
RIVATEER
RIVATEER
Technical Characteristics
Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft.
Overall Length: 24"; Hull Length: 15-1/2"
Width: 9" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 4"
Height: 18" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)
, 1815
, 1815
!
!
©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.

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  • Page 1 ALTIMORE ALTIMORE Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford Model prototype by Bob Werner Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, Florida Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com INSTRUCTION MANUAL ODELING ODELING APPER APPER LIPPER LIPPER Model Shipways Kit No.

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    The plans of the Dapper Tom were developed in 1954 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota, New Jersey.

  • Page 3: Before You Begin

    Before You Begin The Dapper Tom is an interesting model for beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a solid hull which has been machine-carved from select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass- wood. This style hull provides a quick and easy lesson in the basic shapes and propor- tions of hull design and helps to develop woodworking skills.

  • Page 4: Painting & Staining

    Cannon Barrels & Anchors - Iron Black. Capstan - Black top & Dark Reddish Brown barrel. Paint: Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line of acrylic paints are available in the recom- mended colors. You may also purchase an already assembled Dapper Tom paint kit from Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com.

  • Page 5: Carving The Hull

    2. Carving the Hull Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3” x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to the deck so the model can be held in a bench vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of the profile and correct it as necessary, using a long sanding block (Figure A-2).

  • Page 6: Stage B: Completing The Basic Hull Structures

    STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES 1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut parts. Taper the stem and install the parts (Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows a scarf joint between the keel and stem with a step in the middle of the joint.

  • Page 7: Creating The Ladder Way Hole

    could also install a waterway without cutting the nibs. Another way, the scored decking could go into the bulwark, and a thin water- way glued on top of the decking. 6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole The ladder way shown on the plan indicates an open hatch with a ladder.

  • Page 8: Stage D: Adding The Hull Details

    STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS 1. General Notes Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime them with grey primer before final paint. Locate deck fittings and place them into position.

  • Page 9: Deck Bitts, Fife Rails, Pin Rails, Capstan, Galley Funnel, Hatches, Ladder Way, Pumps, & Skylight

    Install the cavils, cut from stripwood, across the bulwark stanchions in locations shown on the plans (Figure D-4). The gunport lids are Britannia castings. Install these in the open position. Add the line for retrieving and holding up the line. The cast- ing has a ring where the line attaches but it is molded in flat with the casting so is useless for attaching a line.

  • Page 10: Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction

    STAGE E: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION Most references call a mast a mast, and anything else such as a boom, yard, gaff, and bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition. There are two mast assemblies for the Dapper Tom. They are a foremast & main mast. The foremast is built up in three sections: lower mast, topmast, &...

  • Page 11: Shaping & Detailing The Spars

    stay and the jibsail halliard. The port side block is not used or is for other lines not rigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustrates the mast details. Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a rest for the boom. The rest is a laser cut part but requires support chocks cut from stripwood (Figure E-5).

  • Page 12: Stage F: General Rigging Information

    drilled into the hull. It is suggested that you do not glue the masts and bowsprit into the holes. The rigging will hold them in position. Furthermore, if the model gets restored in the future, the masts and bowsprits can be easily removed.
  • Page 13 Running Rigging (Tan Line) 0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines & Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines, Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards. 0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail Yard Braces &...

  • Page 14: Stage G: Standing Rigging

    have enough running rigging line so it can reach to its final destination, such as a belaying pin, with a little line left. Bet- ter to be too long than too short. Standing rigging such as yard footropes are included, as these would be very difficult to do with the yard hanging at the mast.

  • Page 15: Mainmast Stays

    lant shrouds have no deadeyes or ratlines. The shrouds pass through the crosstrees and seize to the topmast shrouds. 3. Foremast (Head) Stays Forestay -The forestay (9) sets up to a closed and open heart and collar at the bowsprit. The closed heart shown on the plan appears rather large for this ship.

  • Page 16: Yard Lifts, Footropes, Stirrups, Slings, & Trusses

    is a pair, passing on each side of the foremast and setting up port and star- board with lanyards to the eyebolts shown on the deck plan just forward of the foremast fife rail. The stay eye would be fitted with a metal thimble (Fig- ure G-9).

  • Page 17: Stage H: Running Rigging

    Before starting on the running rigging, have all your blocks stropped and/or seized to a line as much as possible. Some running lines may pass through a sheave hole, they require a block. If so try starting at the block and rig- ging backward.
  • Page 18 3. Topsail Yards The jackstays, footropes & stirrups, lifts and brace blocks are essentially the same as for the lower yards. Clew Lines and Sheets - The clew lines (29) are just like the lower yard clew garnets, just a different name.
  • Page 19 The vangs (43) are fitted port and starboard. The plan does not clearly show where the fixed end of the fall is located. Seize it to an eyebolt in the deck close to the bulwark or on top of the cap rail directly in line with the line on the plan.
  • Page 20 FIG. H-8 TOPSAIL, YARD TYE & HALLIARD RUNNER EYEBOLT IN CHANNEL TACKLE PORT AT MAINMAST & STARBOARD AT FOREMAST FIG. H-9 YARD BRACES MAIN TOPMAST LASH LINES & BLOCKS TO LOWER SHROUDS FORE TOPSAIL YARD BRACE MAIN TOP FORE LOWER YARD BRACE ALL BRACES PORTS &...
  • Page 21 FIG. H-10 GAFF THROAT & PEAK HALLIARDS PEAK HALLIARD THROAT HALLIARD FIG. H-11 GAFF VANGS, BOOM TOPIPNG LIFTS & SHEET VANGS TOPPING LIFT BELAY TO BULWARK PIN RAIL EYEBOLT IN DECK OR IN RAIL FIG. H-12 ANCHOR TACKLE LASH TO BELAY TO PIN BULWARK RAIL OR A...

  • Page 22: Bibliography

    There is essentially an update of David Steel’s earlier work. 6. The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstay by George F. Campbell. Model Shipways, 1962. Excellent visuals and background information on building models from kits. Good detail on hulls and rigging. Great for beginners.

  • Page 23: Modeler's Log

    MODELER'S LOG Date Time Notes...
  • Page 24 Model Shipways Kit No. MS2240 Model Shipways Kit No. MS2018 Sold & distributed by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. Toll-Free 800-222-3876 Monday - Friday 9-6 ET • Fax 800-742-7171 SAVE TIME & MONEY ... ORDER DIRECTLY FROM OUR WEBSITE! BLUENOSE Model Shipways Kit No.

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