1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Model Shipways Manuals
  4. Toy
  5. ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160
  6. Instruction manual

Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 Instruction Manual

Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
M
T
M
T
ODELING
HE
ODELING
HE
A
V
S
A
V
S
RMED
IRGINIA
LOOP
RMED
IRGINIA
LOOP
1768
1768
!
!
!
!
PREPARED BY BEN LANKFORD
Technical Characteristics
SCALE: 1/4" = 1' 0" (1:48)
OVERALL LENGTH: 31" (787 mm)
OVERALL HEIGHT FROM KEEL: 22" (559 mm)
OVERALL WIDTH ACROSS
LOWER YARD: 8-1/4" (210 mm)
Manufactured by Model Shipways
A Division of Model Expo, Inc., Hollywood, FL
http://www.modelexpo-online.com
Model Shipways Kit No. 2160

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Subscribe to Our Youtube Channel

Related Manuals for Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160

Summary of Contents for Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160

  • Page 1 SCALE: 1/4" = 1' 0" (1:48) OVERALL LENGTH: 31" (787 mm) OVERALL HEIGHT FROM KEEL: 22" (559 mm) OVERALL WIDTH ACROSS LOWER YARD: 8-1/4" (210 mm) Manufactured by Model Shipways A Division of Model Expo, Inc., Hollywood, FL http://www.modelexpo-online.com Model Shipways Kit No. 2160...

  • Page 2: History

    HISTORY HISTORY The Virginia Sloop is a single-masted privateer, or smuggler, an evolutionary development in the line of fast sailing ships linking the Bermuda sloop of c. 1740 and the trim, sharp model Virginia schooners found in Steel’s Naval Architecture of 1805. It is a small, well-designed ship, with a graceful sheer and low freeboard. The 18th century was a time of intense naval and maritime competition.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS Technical Specifications ..........Cover Stage 5: Adding The Hull Details........20 1. Anchors, Catheads, and Anchor Stowage......20 History ...................2 2. Binnacle ................21 Introduction and Credits .............4 3. Boom Crutches ...............21 4. Cabin Doors..............21 Before You Begin ..............5 5.

  • Page 4: Introduction And Credits

    His book describes the development of the reconstruction and details for building a 3/8" = 1'0" scale model from scratch. Model Shipways has transformed Dr. Feldman’s design into a 1/4" = 1'0" scale kit design. Some modifications have been made in keeping with Model Shipways design procedures, and some minor changes in the rig have been made based on further research.

  • Page 5: Before You Begin

    Strips and sheets of basswood and walnut slowly to avoid breakage. The brass will partments. These should have lids to keep are supplied in the kit. Model Shipways become hot, so clamp the pieces to the drill out dirt. occasionally substitutes lime (Tilia vul-...

  • Page 6: What You'll Need To Start Construction

    Many hobby paints are satisfactory, b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull heat the joint with a small torch or pencil including Model Shipways, Testors, K. Supplies: soldering iron. This sequence is important. Humbrol, and Tamiya. Jo Sonja artists’...

  • Page 7: Virginia Sloop's Color Scheme

    Note: For the above colors, the following sheer strake, galley stack, and all iron- Model Shipways acrylic marine paints Note: Refer to the instructions in the pre- work, stern windows, cannon barrels, approximate the colors: vious section regarding painting of walnut swivel guns, and anchors.

  • Page 8: Stage 1: Framing The Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull

    Hold more even on each side. Model Shipways plans are drawn showing the tip against the wood to heat it. When the starboard side of the ship. In this case, supple, bend the plank over a form, or 4.

  • Page 9: Installing The Bulkheads

    planked, these timbers should lie flush FIG. 1-2 CUTTING THE RABBET on the cut portion from bearding line to INSTALL BULKHEAD TEMPORARILY rabbet. When cutting the rabbet amid- TO DETERMINE PLANK ANGLE ships and forward, temporarily insert the bulkheads in the center keel slots to CHISEL determine the angle the planks will take when installed.

  • Page 10: Installing The Wing Transom, Filler Blocks, And Transom Frames

    Be certain the bottom of each bulkhead FIG. 1-6 BULKHEADS AT BEARDING LINE feathers out at the bearding line. Trim as necessary to line up. Bottoms on the BULKHEAD most narrow bulkheads may be slightly above the bearding line caused by laser CENTER burning the narrow wood (Figure 1-6).

  • Page 11: Installing The Bow Filler Blocks, Knightheads, And Timberheads

    7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks, FIG. 1-10 FRAMING THE BOW Knightheads, and Timberheads FILLER FOR HAWSE HOLE Forward of Bulkhead A, install the filler blocks on both sides. Carve from bass- wood blocks included in the kit. The plan provides some sections through the block.

  • Page 12: Main And After Rails

    of the main deck planking at the quarter- FIG. 1-14 DECK BEAMS AT QUARTER DECK deck, and two to support the forward and aft ends of the quarterdeck planking. All three beams fit in precut notches in the cen- CENTER KEEL ter keel.

  • Page 13: Stage 2: Planking The Hull And Installing The Rails

    Stage 2: Planking The Hull And Installing The Rails 1. Getting Started Common Shipbuilding Terms Used in the Planking Process Most modelers find planking tedious. Work slowly and think of each plank as a Plank: Single length of wood used to plank a hull or deck. A strake is a continuous project unto itself.

  • Page 14: Spiling

    4. Spiling FIG. 2-3 SPILING 3. USE COMPASS – RUN STEEL POINT Edge bending planks on real ships occurs ALONG PLANK IN PLACE AND MARK PARALLEL LINE ON NEW PLANK WITH 5. CUT OUT on a limited basis. Wood is rigid, so many 4.
  • Page 15 the basswood planking on the transom. FIG. 2-4 PLANKING THE TRANSOM & COUNTER Figure 2-4 illustrates the transom and CUT TRANSOM ENDS TO CORRECT SHAPE counter planking. The filler in front of CURVED TRANSOM BEFORE INSTALLING FASHION PIECE PLANK the transom is shown in Figure 2-5, along with the fashion piece discussed below.
  • Page 16 Since the wale is thicker than the general FIG. 2-8 SCUPPERS hull planking, taper the forward end of the walnut layer for about 2 inches so it INNER BLACK STRAKE fits into the stem rabbet (Figure 2-7). LAYER Installing the black strake: The black strake sits on top of the wale, and both the basswood and walnut planks will butt into the fashion piece at the stern.

  • Page 17: Completing The Double Planked Hull

    Referring to Plan Sheet 2, lay a tick strip Using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift the planks of 3/64" thick basswood. Sand the along each bulkhead and mark the two plank widths from the marks on the bulk- entire hull until smooth.

  • Page 18: Installing Coamings, Deck And Cabin Planking

    10. Installing Coamings, Deck front go over top of the vertical step planks. be scribed after the plank is laid. and Cabin Planking Cabin top planks: The walnut planks for 11. Installing the Main and the cabin top taper aft as shown on the Hatch and companionway coamings: The Quarter Deck, and Cabin Rails plans.

  • Page 19: Stage 3: Completing The Basic Hull Structure

    Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Structure Correcting and Sanding After installing the planking, examine wood filler or model spackling com- If a natural finish for the walnut is select- the hull for starved glue joints. Fill pound, then smooth the hull and deck ed, use dark wood filler such as walnut these with wood glue and, if necessary, with sandpaper.

  • Page 20: Stage 5: Adding The Hull Details

    Stage 5: Adding The Hull Details The cut-outs in the laser-cut sub-decks FIG. 5-1 STOWING THE ANCHORS locate the hatch and companionway LASH TO TIMEBERHEAD coamings, mast, galley stack, riding bitts, CATHEAD and pumps. Other items such as catheads, timberheads, eyebolts, and cleats can be located in relation to these, or from some other benchmark such as a gunport.

  • Page 21: Binnacle

    2. Binnacle FIG. 5-5 CABIN DOORS Build the binnacle from walnut stripwood. Chamfer the edges (just sand) of the fake drawer fronts so the seams show up better. The drawer pulls can be made from the small nails included in the kit or a straight WIRE HANDLE pin head (Figure 5-3).

  • Page 22: Channels

    6. Channels FIG. 5-9 BUILDING THE COMPANIONWAY Make the channels from walnut stripwood. BRASS STRIP WIRE TO They taper outboard. The outboard edge is FAKE HINGE a separate strip. Cut slots in the edge for the PANEL REAR PANEL chainplates and, when installed, add the edge strip.

  • Page 23: Hatches, Scuttle, And Gratings

    stack is prelocated by the hole in the FIG. 5-14 BUILDING THE PUMPS laser-cut sub-deck. Glue the britannia casting stack in position (Figure 5-10). SAW SLOT FOR HANDLE 10. Hatches, Scuttle, and Gratings Note that the coamings should be installed before deck planking.

  • Page 24: Rudder

    14. Rudder FIG. 5-17 STEERING WHEEL Shape the laser-cut walnut rudder accord- HOLE IN CABIN BULKHEAD ing to the plans. Fashion pintles and gud- DRUM – TURN FROM DOWEL geons from 1/64" x 1/16" brass strips included in the kit. The pintles are flush BRITTANIA CASTING with the rudder, so cut a recess for each STEERING WHEEL...

  • Page 25: Stage 6: Mast And Spar Construction

    Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction There are various opinions regarding the FIG. 6-1 SHAPING & TAPERING MASTS & SPARS use of the terms mast and spar. Is a mast STRAIGHT LINE – WRONG! also a spar? Herein, spars are defined as bowsprit, jibboom, boom, gaff, and yards.

  • Page 26: Building & Installing The Bowsprit And Jibboom

    Mast cap and trestle trees: The kit has FIG. 6-6 MAST CAP & TRESTLE TREES laser-cut walnut cheeks. Make the trestle MAST CAP CASTING trees, filler chocks, and bolsters from wal- nut stripwood. The mast cap is an iron fitting and is a britannia casting in the kit. Figure 6-6 illustrates the assembly.

  • Page 27: Building The Spreader Yard And Topsail Yard

    iron jibboom fittings (britannia castings), footropes on both yards, the clewline 7. Mast and Spar Bands, and these fittings angle the jibboom blocks on the topsail yard, and the topsail and Cleats slightly to port of the bowsprit. This is sheet blocks on the spreader yard.

  • Page 28: Rigging Scheme

    Plan Sheet 4. No details for making model sails are includ- THREAD ed herein. However, as a reference consid- er Model Shipways’ Pride of Baltimore II TWIST SERVING ONLY or Flying Fish instruction manuals. Both FOR MODEL have instructions for making model sails.

  • Page 29: Rigging Line, Blocks, Bullseyes, Hearts, & Deadeye Sizes

    hull plan, Sheet 3, including the ones at The large hearts for the forestay are laser- parceled area is served (bound in the the bow. Refer back to Stage 5 for eye- cut walnut. Cut or file the stropping opposite direction with spun yarn). Serv- bolt sizes to use for rigging.

  • Page 30: Spreader Yard Horse

    pair, then alternate them port and star- FIG. 8-1 CHAIN PLATES board (Figure 8-2). To set up the shrouds, DEADEYE make a temporary brass wire fixture to NOTCH space the deadeyes as seizing progresses (Figure 8-3). CHANNEL The fixture should be longer than the final spacing of deadeyes.

  • Page 31: Fore & Aft Stays

    the trestle trees, and one end goes to port Topmast backstays: These port and star- laser-cut walnut hearts with a collar board stays have an eye at the topmast and the other end to starboard. From the around the bowsprit (Figure 8-9). One and set up to thimbles with lanyards.

  • Page 32: Bowsprit Rigging

    there it terminates into a tackle seized to FIG. 8-10 RIGGING THE JIBSTAY an eyebolt on the starboard side of the MASTHEAD stem. The fall for the tackle is belayed to MOUSE – FOR SIMPLIFIED the first starboard timberhead on the rail VERSION, SEE FIGURE 8-9 (Figure 8-10).

  • Page 33: Stage 9: Installing Running Rigging

    Stage 9: Installing Running Rigging As noted earlier, even if this model is to FIG. 9-1 RIGGING THE JIB HALLIARD AND DOWNHAUL WITHOUT SAIL be rigged without sails, it was common to leave many of the lines for handling the MASTHEAD sails in place, obviously including their SEIZE SINGLE BLOCK TO JIBSTAY –...

  • Page 34: Mainsail

    on the model for these lines and are iden- FIG.9-4 RIGGING THE GAFF THROAT HALLIARD tified on the belaying plan. Also, the hal- liard/downhaul connection would move EYEBOLT IN TRESTLE up and be attached to the head of the sail. TREE CHOCK Figure 9-2 illustrates the rig.

  • Page 35: Topsail

    The lines rigged above are basic to the FIG.9-7 RIGGING THE BOOM TOPPING LIFT gaff and boom. However, the sail would MASTCAP have an outhaul at the clew of the sail. EYEBOLT COLLAR Knot off the outhaul tackle at the sheave STOP CHOCK in the boom, and rig the tackle along the boom (Figure 9-8).
  • Page 36 Port and starboard braces are seized to FIG.9-12 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD LIFTS each yardarm, go down and through dou- ble blocks at the end of the bowsprit, then back to the hull and belay to cleats SINGLE BLOCK COLLAR at the bow.
  • Page 37 The halliard block (jeers) has an eye feed down to a tackle secured to an eye- bow. The blocks at the end of the bolt in the deck near the bulwarks and around the masthead. The lower block is bowsprit are double blocks, shared with about in line with the first shroud.

  • Page 38: Course

    4. Course FIG. 9-21 RIGGING THE FLAGSTAFF HALLIARD Since a course sail has been considered optional, no rigging lines need be HOLE IN STAFF installed on this model. If such a sail were used, it would be a large square sail sup- ported off the spreader yard.

  • Page 39: Bibliography

    Kits by Ben Lankford. Hollywood, design, and construction of a 3/8" scale Although dated, Davis’ modelbuilding FL: Model Shipways, Inc., 2000. model of a Virginia Sloop. Basis for the techniques are still excellent. More impor- A book designed especially for the kit Model Shipways kit.

Table of Contents