The History of American Sailing Ships, and also The Search for Speed Under Sail. The rig- ging and deck equipment is based on contemporary texts. The Model Shipways kit of Rattlesnake initially offered a solid hull model. This kit has now been converted to a Plank-On-Bulkhead type hull. The P-O-B hull plans were prepared in 1994 by Ben Lankford along with this complete new instruction manual.
Brief History It was supposedly in 1781 that Rattlesnake was built as a privateer at Plymouth, Massachusetts for a Salem syndicate; John Andrews, and oth- ers. The Preble Papers in the Massachusetts Historical Society indicate that the designer and builder was John Peck of Boston. She was first commissioned on June 12, 1781 with Master Mark Clark at the helm.
CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS Brief History Pg 3 9. Kevels & Chesstrees Pg 24 Introduction/Credits Pg 2 10. Galley Chimney Pg 24 Before You Begin Pg 5 11. Channels Pg 24 What You'll Need to Start Construction Pg 5 12.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION The Rattlesnake is a very beautiful ship The following tools and supplies are rec- J. Finishing and makes a splendid model. The ommended for the construction process. 1. Paint Brushes plank-on-bulkhead hull construction Modelers who have built before may a.
However, if needed, it will be 6. Soldering & Working with Brass plans by using a set of draftsman di- provided in Model Shipways kits. The Rattlesnake is a ship from a period viders or by using a "tick" strip, which is Note: Your kit may contain European that had very little iron fittings.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It may seem strange to begin an instruc- Tops & Doublings (top up and includ- tion manual with directions on applying ing mast caps), and Bands around Fore the finishes to the model. Not so! Much and Main Mast: Black time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if...
STAGE A FIG. 1 - Assembling The Two Center Keel Pieces FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Bending Wood Wax paper or plastic wrap Building a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twisting, and the wood must remain in the desired posi- tion so as not to put too much stress on glue joints and fasteners.
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FIG. 2 - Installing The Keel, Stem & Stern Taper Add dowels as necessary sternpost Add keel/stem Glue scarf joints Next, mark the bevels on the bulkheads. Use a tick strip to transfer the bevel line FIG. 3 - Cutting The Rabbet in The Center Keel as shown on the plans, or cut the bulk- head patterns from the plan and glue them onto the bulkheads.
Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were FIG. 6 - Aligning The Bulkheads, Using Battens not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff bass- wood batten about 3/32" thick and lay it across the bulkhead edges and decks in Check alignment Check straightness of...
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FIG. 9 - Carving The Counter Block At Bulkhead “M” Side transom Inboard transom support–P/S support–P/S Carved counter block BHD “M” BHD = Bulkhead P/S = port/starboard FIG. 10 - Installing The Transom FIG. 11 - Installing The Two Fashion Pieces Side support Inboard support Glue...
7. Installing the Bow & Stern FIG. 12 - Installing The Bow Filler Block Filler Blocks Forward of Bulkhead A and aft of Bulk- head M, add the filler blocks as shown on the plans. Carve the blocks to the hull form.
11. Installing the Main, Forecastle FIG. 14 - Installing The Main, Forecastle & Quarter Deck Rails & Quarter Deck Rails Because the forecastle deck has more curvature, it has been laser cut for you. Cut all the other rails from strip wood. At the forecastle deck, first make and in- Dowel or pin sert the rail stanchions in the pre-cut...
STAGE B FIG. 18 - Planking With Stealers Planking the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Before getting started, it 's a good idea to know some of the more common shipbuilding terms that apply to the planking process. Consider the follow- ing few key words as you work: Stealer 1.
FIG. 19 - Staggering The Planking Butts Bulkheads Real ship–must have 3 strakes between Real ship–must be 5’ or more butts on same frame (model meets rule (model meets rule) with plank length selected) modeler. However, by using shorter you would wind up with only two full While glue alone will hold the planks, pieces there are some advantages.
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FIG. 20 - Spiling Use a compass–run the steel point along the plank in place and mark a parallel line on a new plank with the pencil lead end Measure width & Cut out plank mark . Draw curve Wood–lay along bulkheads Plank already in place without edge bending wider.
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FIG. 21 - Belt Battens Look for smooth flow of battens Top of wale Battens Use a tick strip and lift the plank widths from the Hull Planking Layout. If you FIG. 22 - Planking The Counter have changed the locations of the bat- tens, simply divide the space into six equal plank widths at each bulkhead.
Now, move down to the next planking strake and work it the same way that you FIG. 23 - Belt “A” First & Second Strakes did the previous one. Stagger the plank butts, starting at Bulkhead E. Continue 1st strake in belt “A” (4 planks) until this strake is finished, then complete the other strakes in Belt A.
STAGE C FIG. 25 - Hatch & Grating Coamings COMPLETING THE BASIC Coaming Center Keel HULL STRUCTURE 1. Correcting and Sanding After all the planks are installed, look over the entire hull. If you find seams with starved glue joints, rub some wood Scrap supports glue in the cracks and, if necessary, add for deck planking...
The natural wood planks will cover the existing planking, but you will still have FIG. 28 - Building The Gangways the rails exposed. You could substitute these initially with the wood of your choice, cap them with the strips, or sim- Gangway plank ply stain them to look similar.
2. Launching Ways FIG. 30 - Ladders The second type of mounting that can be employed is the launching ways (or building ways ). This mount is most suit- able for models without sails. It is sup- plied in kit form with instructions. Gap so fit is snug Drilling of the keel is still required to Stile holder...
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FIG. 31 - Hatches & Gratings Laser-cut grating Grating ledge must suit thickness of assembled grating Coaming After assembly, sand top surface & clean out holes Option 2: Egg-crate style Option 1: Flat-edge glued Glue FIG. 32 - Binnacle FIG. 33 - Capstan Details Chimney–file from brass Top (edges over- (wood)
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FIG. 34 - Catheads & Anchor Details Knot Open cleat CAT STOPPER To cleat Cathead SHANK PAINTER To eyebolt in deck Belay to rail stanchion After hoisting anchor, set cat stopper Bower anchor P/S Anchor rests against billoard on Anchor hull (chafing piece) cable Wood...
FIG. 36 - Kevels & Chesstrees FIG. 37 - Galley Chimney Cleat end Line Line belays Drill hole to rep- Galley resent sheave chimney Chesstree is basically a fair- Square Round lead for line Pin or dowel to hull Fit into Thick pad deck on deck...
FIG. 40 - Cannons Breech line Eyebolts bulwark Outhaul tackle (or side tackle) Inhaul tackle CANNON RIG (or train tackle) 6 POUNDER GUN Eyebolt in deck 15. Quarter Badges 16. Cannons Cannons inside the officer's and cap- tain's staterooms need not be rigged A separate Britannia fitting is supplied for The Rattlesnake has 20 gun ports, but since the rigging cannot be seen.
FIG. 41 - Ship’s Longboat Rail Knee Twart Frame Laser-cut lifts Molding Add details after carving basic hull Bottom Battens Carve/sand interior and exterior surface to boat hull lines carefully! Add keel after carving Stern Align tabs on all lifts as you glue up lifts Cut off tabs and shape profile 17.
STAGE F FIG. 43 - Shaping The Masts & Spars MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION At this point, your model should have a Straight line–NO! considerable amount of stuff on board. Take another look, correct mistakes and touch up paint blemishes. Go over the plans again.
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FIG. 45 - Masthead Details FIG. 46 - Fid Hole Positioning & Fid Options Mast cap Tenon Round Cut chamfers to make square into an octagon Square Add pieces on all sides Fid hole Stop cleats for to build a shoulder for jeer strops P/S trestle trees lower masts...
The boom rest for the mizzen mast is supplied laser-cut. To the laser-cut half FIG. 48 - Fore & Main Top Platform ring, you will need to add the chocks separately (see figure 49). Add the cleats around the masts as shown Rim all around curved on the plans.
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File edges FIG. 51 - Bowsprit Tapering & Tenon and holes to correct angle Bees Laser-cut Jibboom saddle Tenon Cleats at gammoning Hole Gammoning Shoulders for rigging BOWSPIT JIBBOOM END Fits into center keel notch FIG. 52 - Yard Details Stop cleat top &...
FIG. 53 - Boom & Gaff Jaws Parral beads, or just a line on model Gaff jaws a little shorter than boom–cut-off this end Drill hole YES! Flat sides Laser-cut boom & gaff jaws 5. Building the Lower, 6. Building the Spanker Gaff STAGE G Crossjack, Topsail, Topgallant &...
three holes for reeving the lanyards. On pull the sail in toward the mast for furl- clew lines. This gives the ship an appear- a modern day ship, such a device would ing. Bowlines are lines attached to the ance somewhat like it might be while in be replaced by a metal turnbuckle.
The diameter of lanyards for deadeyes Rigging Line Ship Size Rigging Line Ship Size and hearts can be about 1/3 the diame- Name Diameter Name Diameter ter of the line, such as a shroud. The rigging lines provided in the kit do Running Rigging Cont’d.
FIG. 54 - Seizings STARTER KNOTS Constrictor knot Clove hitch (will not loosen) Wrap Glue Constrictor knot Wrap Tuck & glue or clove hitch EYESPLICE PROCEDURE 6. Rigging Tools FIG. 55 - Rope Coils It is possible to make some homemade tools essential for the rigging process (see figure 56).
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The cloth must be pre-shrunk, so wash it several times. When dry, iron the cloth, FIG. 56 - Homemade Rigging Tools but be careful not to scorch it. Next, Flatten end and file shape draw the seams and hem (tabling) lines Brass rod and other reinforcements in light pencil, (Push)
FIG. 59 - Making The Sails Sail cloth Weave same as seam line direction Pencil lines–sew seams Pencil lines–sew to represent reef bands Mark with pencil "A" "B" "C" Iron before (cut) (final shape) sewing. Easier to sew Sew seams first, "B"...
STAGE H FIG. 61 - Furled Sails STANDING RIGGING Full size material possible using If same material "silkspan" but check bulk first Keep your lines handy, sorted by sizes, and have them all nicely beeswaxed be- Cut to about fore you start. For seizings, you can use this size for cotton, silk, or nylon sewing thread.
2. Backstays FIG. 65 - Ratlines The topmast and topgallant backstays are similar to shrouds except there are no ratlines connected to them, except at the very top. Install them after the shrouds are installed. Cut & glue 3. Fore & Aft Stays Model option Install the fore and aft stays after the Thread with needle...
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FIG. 67 - Detail At The Main Mast Top Mizzen topmast stay Main topmast (Port & Stbd same) Topmast shrouds Topgallant shroud Lower lift Buntlines Ratlines Braces Futtock shrouds Mouse Futtock stave Jeers Mainstay Shrouds Main yard Truss FIG. 68 - Bowsprit Standing Rigging See large detail on Jibstay Fore topgallant stay...
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FIG. 69 -Rattlesnake Sail Plan Main Fore Reef bands Main Fore topsail topsail Mizzen topsail Fore topmast staysail Spanker Main Fore Fore course course staysail Spritsail topsail Sprit- sail FIG. 70 -Typical Head Sail Rig Halliard Hook halliard & (Head) downhaul together near bowsprit (Luff)
FIG. 71 - Yard Rigs–No Sail Topgallant buntline Reef line (Other lines similar to lower yard) Tie off legs under yard Knot stop TOPSAIL YARD TOPGALLANT Jeers Buntlines & leechlines knotted at block Topsail sheet & clew- line tied together Bunt Clewline Bunt...
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FIG.72 -Typical Spanker Sail Peak halliard Throat Seams parallel halliard to leech Lace to gaff Leech Topping Gaff downhaul–block under jaws, leads to block, lift strapped to mast at deck, then belay to mast cleat Reef bands & points (could have 3 bands) Vangs P &...
Oddly, the course does not have a reef FINAL TOUCHES line. The reason; courses are hauled up by leech lines and topsails by reef lines After all the rigging is in place, re-check (see figure 71—it shows the reef line every line, and make sure all the seizings knotted off for a model without sails).
S C A L E C O N V E R S I O N T A B L E FORMULAS FOR CONVERTING MILLIMETERS AND INCHES R I G G I N G Diameters for Lifesize Vessel Diameters in Tenths of an Inch Diameters Converted to 3/16" Scale 1 mm = .03937 of an inch Inches in 10ths ÷...
(Reprinted). Additional information and drawings of Rattlesnake 3. The Young Sea Officers Sheet Anchor, by Darcey Lever.1819 (Reprinted) Contemporary rigging text and is a basis for the Model Shipways rigging plan reconstruction for Rattlesnake. Excellent drawings of the entire rig and sails.
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3/14/2013 RATTLESNAKE PARTS LIST MS2028 PART # ITEM QUANTITY DESCRIPTION/NOTES BRITANNIA CASTINGS 5 pks WP6601 After Gallows Bitt WP6602 Anchors WP6603 Anchor Stocks WP6604 Gunport Lids WP6605 Riding Bitt WP6606 Fore Gallows Bitt WP6607 Transom Carving WP6608 Elm Pumps WP6609 Figurehead WP6610 Galley Stack...
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DEADEYES, BLOCKS, AND OTHER WOOD FITTINGS Note: All deadeyes and blocks are Walnut unless otherwise noted. WP0390 3/32" Dia. Deadeyes WP0339 1/8" Dia. Deadeyes WP0301 3/32" Single Blocks WP0302 1/8" Single Blocks WP0303 5/32" Single Blocks WP0304 3/16" Single Blocks WP0308 1/8"...
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WP3604-24 1/32" x 1/8" x 24” WP3606-24 1/32" x 3/16" x 24” WP3618-24 1/16" x 1/16" x 24” WP3619-24 1/16" x 3/32" x 24” WP3620-24 1/16" x 1/8" x 24” WP3622-24 1/16" x 3/16" x 24” WP3623-24 1/16" x 1/4" x 24” WP3624-24 1/16"...
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Boom & Gaff Jaw Sets 2 sets (2 parts each set) Fore & Main Mast Cap 2 parts Main Top Cap 1 part Fore Top 1 part Mizzen Cap 1 part Bowsprit Cap 1 part Forestay Open Heart 2 part Forestay Closed Heart 2 part Transom Side Supports...
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