Duerkopp Adler 558 Operating Instructions Manual
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Duerkopp Adler 558 Operating Instructions Manual

Duerkopp Adler 558 Operating Instructions Manual

Double chain stitch buttonhole machine
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Contents
Preface and General Safety Notes
Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 558
1.
Product Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.1
Short Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.2
Sub-classes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3
Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.4
Sewing Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.4.1
1.4.2
1.5
2.
Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.1
Removal and Placement of the Clamp Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.2
Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.3
End Position of the Sewing Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.4
Needles, Threads and Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.5
Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.6
Threading the Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.7
2.8
Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.9
Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.10
Blocking the Clamp Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.11
Buttonhole Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.12
Cutting Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.13
Cutting Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.14
Cutting Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.15
Spreading of the Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.16
Stitch Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.17
Seam Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.18
Buttonhole Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.19
3.
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.1
Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.2
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3.3
Oiling Positions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Summary of Contents for Duerkopp Adler 558

  • Page 1: Table Of Contents

    Contents Home Page: Preface and General Safety Notes Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 558 Product Description ......Short Description .
  • Page 2 Malfunction Remedies ......Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper Thread Catcher ..General .

  • Page 3: Product Description

    1. Product Description 1.1 Short Description and Proper Use The DÜRKOPP ADLER 558 is a double chain stitch buttonhole machine. Buttonholes with or without eye and with or without taper bar can be sewn. The buttonhole form is determined by 2 exchangeable disc cams with corresponding knives.

  • Page 4: Sub-Classes

    1.2 Sub-classes 558 - 211241 With automatic trimmers. The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut so short that no thread ends are visible. Cleaning is unnecessary. Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing. Cutting length 20 mm 558 - 221301 With automatic trimmers.

  • Page 5: Technical Specification

    1.3 Technical Specification Number of stitches: 1.650 Stitches/min Type of stitch: Double chain stitch Sewing length: max. 50 mm Cutting length: max. 50 mm Needle system: Needle thickness: Nm 90...110 Depending on the type of sewing thread and the material. Looping stroke: 2.7...3.2 mm Depending on the sewing device (E no.).

  • Page 6: Sewing Devices

    1.4 Sewing Devices The devices parts for the different buttonhole forms and cutting lengths are established under device numbers (E no.’s). After the E no. behind a slash the cutting length or the setting range in mm is given. Example: 578 E2107 / 20 578 E209 / 10 - 38 558 E209 / 10 - 38...

  • Page 11: Optional Equipment

    1.5 Optional Equipment 558 - 10012 Electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher The electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher immediately after the thread trimming procedure grips the upper thread. It holds this clamped and inserts it in the right seam during sewing of the next buttonhole. This means: Secure seam beginning even with light, loose cloth.

  • Page 13: Operation

    2. Operation 2.1 Removal and Placement of the Clamp Plates Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Remove or place the clamp plates only with the machine turned off. The removal or placement of the clamp plates 3 and 5 occurs in the machine end position (see Chapter 2.3).
  • Page 14 -221301 -211241 und -241291...
  • Page 15 Sub-classes -211241, -221301 and -241291: Removing the clamp plates – Swing the clamp plate holder 1 away to the side. – Pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and remove the right clamp plate. – Reach under the nail slit 2 and remove the left clamp plate.

  • Page 17: Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart

    2.2 Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart Caution Risk of Injury ! Do not reach into the area of moving machine parts, particularly not under the knife and the cloth clamps. Turning on Turn on the drive motor with the hand shift lever 1. –...
  • Page 19 Restart In order to avoid damage to the machine, when restarting after a quick stop it is essential to proceed as follows: – Lift the idle lever 5 until it jumps off of the nose 4 of the length setting slide 6. Attention ! This point is only to be carried out if the machine was turned off immediately after the first sewing stitches.

  • Page 21: End Position Of The Sewing Machine

    2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine – Turn handwheel 2 until it catches. The needle is in its highest position. ATTENTION ! Before turning the hand crank it is essential that the needle be brought into its high position by moving the handwheel into its catch.

  • Page 22: Needles, Threads And Gimps

    2.4 Needles, Threads and Gimps Table: Threads and Gimps Sub-class 558-221301 558-211241 558-231391 558-241291 558-251301 Needle thread type Polyester fiber thread, Polyester fiber thread, schappe-spun schappe-spun and thickness 70/3 70/3 Hook thread type Polyester fiber thread, Polyester fiber thread, and thickness schappe-spun schappe-spun 70/3...
  • Page 23 Needles Needle system: Needle thickness: Nm 90 - 110 Dependent on type of sewing thread and material. Replacing the needle Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Replace the needle only with the machine turned off. – Swing up the combined finger-eye protection. The needle is accessable without hinderance.

  • Page 25: Threading Of The Underthread (Hook Thread)

    2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread) Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Thread the underthread only with the machine turned off. The threading of the underthreads 1 (Page 28) is conducted as shown in the illustrations on pages 26 and 28 in alphabetical order of the letters: –...
  • Page 26 -231391 -211241 -251301 -221301 -241291...
  • Page 27 Path of the underthread when using yarn or wool cones: If yarn or wool cones are used as hook thread then these are to be set on the as optional equipment available thread unreeler 1 (Order no. 558 3001) underneath the table.

  • Page 29: Threading The Gimps

    2.6 Threading the Gimp Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Thread the lower and upper gimp only with the machine turned off. – Place tube and wire gimp rolls on the gimp roll holder 1. Place the gimp rolls with crosswinding vertically on the yarn plate 2 for an easy pull off of the gimp or thread.
  • Page 31 Sub-class -241291: This sub-class is equipped with gimp pulling device. Before the start of sewing it pulls the gimp back to the correct starting length. For correct positioning see the Service Instructions. – Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1). –...
  • Page 33 Upper gimp threading The feed of the upper gimp is possible with a gimp guider placed in front of the needle. The threading of the upper gimp is conducted as shown in the illustrations alongside in the alphabetical order of the letters: –...

  • Page 35: Threading Of The Upper Thread (Needle Thread)

    2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread) Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Thread the upper thread only with the machine turned off. The threading of the upper thread is conducted as shown in the illustrations on pages 36 and 38 in the alphabetical order of the letters: –...
  • Page 37 Threading by difficult to unreel thread rolls To achieve an easy pull off of the upper and underthread from the thread plate: – Additionally guide the underthread through the holes 1 and 2. – Additionally guide the upper thread through hole 3...

  • Page 39: Thread Tension

    2.8 Thread Tension Upper thread tension The upper thread tension on the machine arm must generally be set tighter than the underthread tension. It is set by turning the knurled nut 6. Tension increase turn to the right Tension decrease turn to the left The upper thread tension is executed as a dual tension: –...
  • Page 41 Underthread tension The underthread tension is set by turning the knurled nut 3 on the hook bracket. Tension increase turn to the right Tension decrease turn to the left Thread pull-on spring for the underthread The thread pull-on spring 1 influences the pull-on of the underthread through its stopper width and pre-tension and thus the form and beading of the buttonhole.

  • Page 43: Sewing

    2.9 Sewing – Place a work piece under the clamps and align precisely. The alignment can be made with markings or the stops available as optional equipment (see Chapter 1.5). Caution Risk of Injury ! Keep hands out from under the lowering cloth clamps ! –...

  • Page 45: Blocking The Clamp Lift

    Caution Risk of Injury ! As long as the seamstress is not yet familiar with the operation of the machine she should turn off the motor with the hand shift lever 3 or the pedal after sewing each buttonhole. Work procedure for the experienced seamstress After a suitable learning period the closing of the clamp operating lever 1 and the turning on and off of the motor with every buttonhole through the seamstress can be eliminated.

  • Page 47: Buttonhole Length

    2.11 Buttonhole length Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Set the buttonhole length only with the machine turned off. ATTENTION ! The changing of the buttonhole length requires a simultaneous change of the cutting length and thus the mounting of a different cutting block (see Chapter 2.12) ! Buttonholes without Taper Bar By buttonholes without taper bar the buttonhole length is determined through the...
  • Page 48 Example: E407/L2 resp. Sewing length E2407/L2 Cutting length Taper bar length minimum Sewing length maximum Sewing length Sewing length...
  • Page 49 Buttonholes with Taper Bar By buttonholes with taper bar the different buttonhole lengths are achieved through insertion of the appropriate lower disc cam 1. It determines taper bar form and length. For exchanging the lower disc cam see Chapter 2.18. The order numbers for the different lower disc cams can be found on the device sheets for the 558 and 578.

  • Page 51: Cutting Length

    2.12 Cutting Length The cutting length is determined by the length of the cutting block. It can be altered by changing the cutting block. The order numbers for the different cutting blocks are, taking into account the sewing device used (E no.), to be found on the device sheets for the 558 or 578. Changing the cutting block Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug.
  • Page 53 Mounting the cutting block at the top or bottom ? The mounting of the cutting block 2 and the cutting knife 1 is dependent on the sub-class with its sewing device (E no.) for cutting "before" or "after sewing": A. Sewing device for "cutting before sewing": –...

  • Page 55: Cutting Blocks

    2.13 Cutting Blocks Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Remove the cutting block only with the machine turned off. A trueing (filing) of the cutting block becomes necessary, – when the cutting block has been too strongly cut into by the cutting knife. –...

  • Page 56: Cutting Pressure

    2.14 Cutting Pressure The cutting pressure is set with screw 1: Increase cutting pressure turn to the right Decrease cutting pressure = turn to the left After each adjustment of screw 1 the cutting pressure must be checked. Checking the cutting pressure –...

  • Page 57: Spreading Of The Material

    2.15 Spreading of the Material Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Set the spreading only with the machine turned off. At the setting "cutting after sewing" the clamp plates are drawn apart after the run start of the material support plate. The material is drawn taut. At the setting "cutting before sewing"...

  • Page 59: Stitch Density

    2.16 Stitch Density Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Set the stitch density only with the machine turned off. For the whole buttonhole length The stitch density is adjustable between 0.9 and 2 mm. It is determined by the required strength and the appearance of the buttonhole, as well as the thread size used.
  • Page 60 Seam width Cutting area Buttonhole width...

  • Page 61: Seam Width

    2.17 Seam Width (Buttonhole Width) Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Set the seam width only with the machine turned off. At the setting "cutting after sewing" the buttonhole width is arrived at as follows: Buttonhole width = Cutting area + 2 x seam width Setting the seam width –...

  • Page 63: Buttonhole Form

    2.18 Buttonhole Form The buttonhole form is determined by the two exchangeable disc cams 1 and 2: – The upper disc cam 1 determines the eye form. – The lower disc cam 2 determines, by taper bar buttonholes, the taper bar form and buttonhole length.

  • Page 65: Changeover To Cutting Before Or After Sewing

    2.19 Change-over to Cutting Before or After Sewing Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Conduct the change-over to "cutting before" or "cutting after sewing" only with the machine turned off vornehmen. The change-over from "cutting before" to "cutting after sewing" is only possible with sub-classes with the appropriate sewing device (E no.) (see Device Table in Chapter 1.4).
  • Page 67 2. Timing of the closing and opening of the clamps – Tilt the machine head up. – Loosen screw 2. – Push the clamp closing lever 1 in the appropriate arrow direction up to the stop. – Tighten screw 2 again. 3.

  • Page 68: Maintenance

    3. Maintenance Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Maintain the machine only when it is turned off. 3.1 Cleaning A clean machine protects against malfunctions ! Daily cleaning: Clean the area under the clamp plates, particularly around the hook bracket 1, of sewing dust, thread rests and cutting refuse.

  • Page 69: Lubrication

    3.2 Lubrication For lubrication of the machine only ESSO SP-NK 10 lubricating oil is to be used. SP-NK 10 is available at the DÜRKOPP ADLER AG sales offices. Check the oil level in the oil reservoirs – The lubrication of all moving parts the machine on the machine arm and hook bracket is through a central oil wick lubrication out of the oil reservoirs 1 and 2.

  • Page 70: Oiling Positions

    3.3 Oiling Positions...

  • Page 74: Malfunction Remedies

    4. Malfunction Remedies Malfunction Remedy 1. Machine does not start or runs unevenly. a) V-belt from the motor to the Tension V-belt as per Installation Instructions for high-speed wheel or to the the 558. handwheel is too loose. b) Machine is in front of the With the main witch turned off and the needle high cutting position at the time of bring the machine into its end position with the...
  • Page 75 Malfunction Remedy 5. Unequal stitch lengths or stitch positions. a) V-belt is too loose. Tension V-belt as per Installation Instructions for the 558. b) Gimp is too taut, jams or does Use thinner gimp or insert a needle plate with not pass easily through the larger gimp hole.
  • Page 76 Malfunction Remedy 9. Needle breakage. a) Needle thickness is unsuitable Use a needle thickness as per Chapter 2.6 or as for the material or the thread. per sewing device (E no.). b) Needle is hitting the cloth The max. buttonhole width listed in the table on clamps.

  • Page 77: Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper Thread Catcher

    5. Optional Equipment Electromagnetically Operated Upper Thread Catcher 5.1 General The sub-class 558-221301 has the the electro-magnetically operated upper thread catcher as standard equipment. All other sub-classes can, on request, be outfitted with it at the factory or have it retrofitted.

  • Page 79: Electrical Connection

    5.2 Electrical Connection ATTENTION All work on the electrical components of the upper thread catcher may only be conducted by electricians or appropriately trained personnel. The mains plug must be pulled. The transformer in the controls of the upper thread catchers is equipped with connections for following mains voltages: 1 ~ 200 V 1 ~ 220 V...
  • Page 81 – The cam 6 connected with the length setting slide operates the switch b2. The thread catcher lowers. Through the slide of the opener lever 8 onto the opener 7 the thread catcher is opened. Via the curve plate 3 it is swung in front of the needle to grip the upper thread. –...

  • Page 83: Turn-On Interlocks

    5.4 Turn-on Interlocks Switch b4 With the cloth clamps opened the machine can only be turned on in its end position. For this cams 1 operates the switch b4. Switch b1 In all other machine positions with the cloth clamps opened a turning on and thus also the thread catcher function are blocked by switch b1.

  • Page 85: Setting

    5.5 Setting Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. Make setting only with the machine turned off. 5.5.1 Lift of the Electromagnet The lift of the electromagnet should be 20 mm. Measured is the distance between the upper edge of the protective sleeve 4 and the upper edge of the anchor 3 in both positions (ON and OFF).

  • Page 87: Lowering Movement

    5.5.3 Lowering Movement Opener setting After the closing of the thread gripper 1 the opener lever 3 must move past behind the opener 2 unhindered. Thread gripper 1 must thereby remain closed. – Check the unhindered movement of the opener lever 1. –...

  • Page 89: Gripping Movement

    5.5.4 Gripping Movement Bringing the thread gripper in gripping position After sewing the left buttonhole seam the thread gripper 3 must be set in the precise gripping position for the upper thread. – Turn the handwheel until the sewing sequence for the left buttonhole seam is completed and the handwheel catches.

  • Page 90: Switches For The Upper Thread Catcher Controls

    5.5.5 Switches for the Upper Thread Catcher Controls ATTENTION ! Before commissioning the machine all switches must be set as described below. Switch b4 Safety switch b1 is bypassed by the operation of switch b4. The machine, with open cloth clamps, can only be started in its end position. In the end position the switching piece 1 must turn on the switch b4 and hold it operative.
  • Page 91 Switch b3 After the sewing in of the upper thread end in the right buttonhole seam switch b3 determines the timing of the raising of the thread catcher. The upper thread end should be held as long as possible. Thereby the switching roller 2 must have fallen from the switching piece 3 before the clamping piece 4 of the thread catcher can run onto the clamp shackle 5.
  • Page 92 Switch b2 After the trimming of the upper thread switch b2 operated by cam 1 determines the timing for lowering the thread catcher. Cam 1 is connected to the length setting slide. With the setting of a different buttonhole length the correct switch timing is thus set automatically.
  • Page 93 Switch b1 Safety switch b1 is directly under the clamp frame 1. It is to prevent the machine being turned on with the cloth clamps open. – Switch b1 must, with open cloth clamps, be open. With the cloth clamps closed it must be closed. –...
  • Page 94 b3 7 b5...

  • Page 95: Attachment

    5.6 Attachment Caution Risk of Injury ! Pull the mains plug. The attachment of the upper thread catcher may only be conducted with the machine turned off and only by trained skilled personnel. 5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor The designation numbers affixed to the cables and position numbers in these instructions are indentical with the cable numbers in the enclosed hook-up diagram 558 10296 and in the circuit diagram 558 10295.
  • Page 96 b3 7 b5 19 20...

  • Page 97: Laying The Wiring

    5.6.2 Laying the Wiring – Pull the hand crank 17 from the shaft end. – Loosen nut 16 ( ATTENTION: lefthand thread) – Loosen nut 13. – Pull off the high-speed wheel 15 with the drive bush 14. – Attach the holder tube 11 with cables 1, 4 and 7 to the cover plate. –...
  • Page 98 – Fasten angle 21 with switches b1 and b2 to the support 22. – Attach the cable clips. – Mount switch b4 to the outside of the control curve housing. – Secure the cable 6 with a clamp. – Mount operator 23 for switch b4 centered in its slot under the material support plate.

  • Page 99: Control Unit

    5.6.3 Control Unit – Mount the control unit 2 under the table. – Lay the cable 1 from the wiring distributor to the control unit 2 (plug b10) and aatch to the table with a clamp. The laying of the cable must be conducted with the machine head tilted up. –...

  • Page 100: Mounting Switch B3

    5.6.4 Mounting Switch b3 In the parts set there are 2 switching cams for the different sub-classes: Sub-class Switching cam -221301 , -251301 straight switching cam -231391 , -241291 milled switching cam -211241 milled switching cam The milling must be deepened –...

  • Page 101: Mounting The Switching Rail For Switch B2

    5.6.5 Mounting the Switching Rail for Switch b2 – Loosen screw 4. – Remove the block 2 from the length setting slide. – Screw on the switching rail 1 with the extension to the block 2 – Tighten screw 3. –...

  • Page 102: Mounting The Upper Thread Catcher On The Machine Arm

    5.6.6 Mounting the Upper Thread Catcher on the Machine Arm – Remove the head cover 8. – Replace the protecting bar 10 for the upper toothed segment with the at the right side shortened protecting bar found in the parts set. –...

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