Stage E: Adding The Hull Details; Timberheads (Or Bulwark Stanchions); Main Rail; Rail Moldings - Model Shipways BENJAMIN W. LATHAM MS2109 Instruction Manual

ADDING THE HULL DETAILS
Before beginning with the details, outline all topside items on
the deck by marking their locations with a pencil. Take all mea-
surements from the plans using tick strips. Proper locations
should be measured from some firm "bench mark" such as a
mast hole or a station line marked on the deck. Add all equip-
ment on or near the bulwarks first, before adding those near
the centerline.

1. Timberheads (or Bulwark Stanchions)

These members comprise an extension of the hull frame and
give the bulwarks their form and strength (see figures 23 and
26). During the building of the Plank-On-Bulkhead hull, every
third bulwark stanchion was included as part of the bulkheads.
You now must add two additional "fake" stanchions, and taper
them exactly to the shape used for the bulkheads. Glue them in
place. Scrape off any glue squeeze-out. Let them dry before
proceeding to the main rail.

2. Main Rail

This rail runs the full length of the vessel, capping the bul-
warks and the timberheads (see figures 23 and 24). The railing
along the sides and around the bow and stern must be cut from
the sheet stock and very carefully joined. Simple scarf joints are
recommended, together with careful gluing and pinning. Note
that the outboard side of the rail protrudes beyond the bulwark
planking; likewise, the inboard side covers the timberheads
with a slight margin of overhang.

3. Rail Moldings

The edges on the rails of many fishermen had simple moldings,
usually super-imposed "half-rounds" (see figure 25). If the
model maker wants to contrive scrapers or some other device
to form these, his efforts would be well rewarded. Detailing of
this sort adds much interest and challenge to the work. Other-
wise, especially for the beginner, a neatly sanded rail edge with
neatly rounded corners will suffice.

4. Buffalo Chock

This is a very simple log rail on top of the main rail, port and
starboard, at the bow (see the plans and figure 30). It should
be square or rectangular in cross-section and taper aft slight-
ly. Taper the rail first, planing and sanding it lightly. Next,
file the ends to their proper shapes. Soak or steam the pieces
and bend them to fit the main rail. Then fasten them down
with glue and pins.

5. Monkey Rails

Fit the monkey board first (see figure 26). This is made from
1/16" x 1/8" for the sides. The section over the stern should be
cut from a 1/8" block. Piece the corners. Over this is placed the
monkey rail which can be made from 1/16" x 1/8" strip-wood
planed down to 3/64" x 1/8". This rail is made in much the
same way as the main rail. However, steam bending the side
portions may be preferable to cutting them from sheet stock.
Over the monkey rail is placed the monkey log, made from
1/16" x 1/16" strip-wood. Note that part of the port monkey
log is omitted to make room for the seine roller. Follow plan
sheet 1 of 4 closely on this matter.
20
STAGE E
FIG. 23 – Railing at Main Deck Deck
Main rail
FIG. 24 – Railing Joiner Work
BOW STERN
Breast
hook
FIG. 25 – Some Common Railing & Superstructure Moldings
CAP RAIL MOLDINGS
2/3
1/3
A. Traditional "hawks bill"
molding (called "dirt catcher"
in the gloucester area.)
1/2
1/2
B. Cruder style of "hawks
bill" molding. Very common
among fishermen.
C. No molding.
Crudest & cheapest.
No inside
molding.
D.
Fife rail showing a
typical stanchion
and an occasionally
used rail molding.
E. Pinrail at
bulwarks
Note: on bulwark rails, it was common to use the same
moldings on both inboard and outboard edges, including the
bulwark pin rails. This is not usually the case for the fife rails
at the fore and main masts.
SIDES
Scarf
Quarter
knee
Simplfied
scarf for
models
Inside
rabbet
Half lap
joints
Coaming
F. HATCH
Dovetail
joint
Coaming
G. TRUNK CABIN
(end view)