GREAT PLANES Spirit 100 Instruction Book
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GREAT PLANES Spirit 100 Instruction Book

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Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost
of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly,
no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the
final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he
is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL
INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY
SPT1P02

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Summary of Contents for GREAT PLANES Spirit 100

  • Page 1 INSTRUCTION BOOK WARRANTY Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ......3 Install Radio Gear ......44 Precautions........3 Install The Spoilers ......47 Other Items Required ...... 3 Control Throws ........ 47 Supplies and Tools Needed .... 4 Control Surface Mixing ....47 Abbreviations ........4 Balance The Model ......

  • Page 3: Introduction

    Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes SPIRIT 100 no representations are expressed or implied as to the sailplane.

  • Page 4: Supplies And Tools Needed

    *NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11 T-Bar sanders, found to work great - enabling the Spirit 100 to thermal equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-gnt sandpaper This very tightly in low level thermals "Straight wing"...

  • Page 5: Die Patterns

    DIE PATTERNS SPT1W01 4 PER KIT SPT1F01 2 PER KIT SPT1W01 BALSA 1/16- X 2-6/8" X 1/8" BALSA 1/8" X 4" X 24" SPT1W02 2 PER KIT SPT1F03 2 PER KIT BALSA 1/8" X 2-6/8" X 16" SPT1W03 2 PER KIT BALSA 3/32- X 3-1/2"...

  • Page 6: Get Ready To Build

    NOTE,: Because there are several options to con- sider when building the SPIRIT 100, you should read the instruction book through before building and then go back and cross off the steps you won't use to build your model.

  • Page 7: Build The Stabilizer And Elevator

    D 6. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-gnt) sandpa- per, sand the leading edge of the rudder to the V-shape as shown on the plans (a small razor plane works great for initial shaping). Sand the three remaining edges to a smooth rounded shape.* Sand the top and the leading edge of the fin to a nice rounded shape.

  • Page 8: Cut The Hinge Slots

    use your sanding block with medium grit sandpaper to sand both CAUTION!!!: You must use extreme care when cut- sides smooth. ting hinge slots with a hobby knife, to avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into your hand D 5.

  • Page 9: Sport Wing Assembly

    SPORT WING ASSEMBLY D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface and cover the wing drawing with waxed paper. NOTE: If your work space is limited, you may cut the wing drawings apart from the rest of the plans. D 4.
  • Page 10 D 2. Son through the three 1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Wing DD 6. Place six W2S and two W2SS ribs (SPT1W01) on Sheeting (SPT1W20) and pick out the two sheets that most the spar in their approximate positions, work the ribs into the closely match each other in weight and grain.
  • Page 11 shorter than the panel so you will have to do approx half the ribs W2S ribs and note that it is wider than the front of the rib This then move the spar down to do the rest of the ribs is because the 1/16 balsa leading edge top sheeting will be added later Align the lower surface of the leading edge with the bottom of the lower LE sheet and glue it in place with a drop of thin CA...
  • Page 12 the work surface and tightly against the spars. It is important to do a good job of gluing these in place as they are responsible for most of the wing's strength. Also glue a shear web to the front of the spars.
  • Page 13 ribs into place these NOTE: If you are going to install spoilers, be tightly wrapped and closely spaced near the root end but it can you should drill 1/8" holes in the remaining W1 SB ribs for the be spaced farther apart as you get closer to the W2S rib Do not tubing before gluing them in place.

  • Page 14: Build The Outer Wing Panel

    BUILD THE OUTER WING PANEL You'll need the following parts: SPT1W03 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W4S, W6S, W7S, W9S SPT1W04 1/16" Balsa DC Wing Ribs - W2SA & B, W5S,W8S,W10S SPT1W13 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-1/2" Basswood Outer Spars SPT1W14 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge into the notches until it is flush with the top of the ribs.

  • Page 15: Join The Wing Panels

    but just trim them flush with the spars and sand the edges round so they do not make a ridge when the covering is applied. and the above photos to show you the recommended shape. CAUTION - Do not sand the TE of the tip to a very thin edge or it will get damaged very easily.
  • Page 16 measurement at rib W10S. Use a sanding block to carefully sand the leading edge, spars and trailing edge to achieve vertical surfaces on each. Check your progress by occasionally setting the panel on the plans to make sure you are not sanding any "sweep"...
  • Page 17 sand the tops of the inner panel ribs and the spar to remove any glue globs or uneven places. can put weights on the strip of wood if needed CAUTION • It is important to keep the wing flat and warp-free during this step! DD 10 Check to make sure one edge of the l/16"...
  • Page 18 to hold the spoiler about 1/32" above the surface of the wing and photo. It should be flush with the top of the leading edge sheeting. then sand the spoiler to match the contour of the wing surface. D D 20. If you are using the spoiler setup shown on the plans, the spoiler tube should exit the bottom of the wing just behind the wing joiner box, between the first and second W1BS ribs.
  • Page 19 D D 24. Cut the sheeting off at an angle from the front of W2BS to approx. 1/4" out from the rear of W1BS as shown on the plans. Sand the sheeting flush with the W1BS rib at the wing root. (The photo for this step is at the bottom of the last column) D 25.

  • Page 20: Advanced Wing Assembly

    ADVANCED WING ASSEMBLY D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface and cover the wing drawing with waxed paper. NOTE: If your work space is limited, you may cut the wing drawings apart from the rest of the plans. D 4.
  • Page 21 not purposely glue the ribs to the sheeting yet. Use the square end of the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular to the work surface. Hold the sub TE and the first W2 rib flat against the plan and with the rib inserted fully into the notch, add a drop of thin CA to the joint.
  • Page 22 IMPORTANT - MAKE SURE THE WING PANEL REMAINS ABSOLUTELY FLAT DURING THE NEXT STEP! "bumps" but be careful not to sand any dips into the sheeting or DD 12 Locate the 1/16" Balsa Shear Webs (SPT1W24) sand the ribs Trial fit one of the webs in place between the second and third W2 ribs Glue the shear web in place on the back of the spars using med or thick CA The web should be pressed down against the work surface and tightly against the spars It is important to do...
  • Page 23 "joiner box" The spars should fit snugly down on the wing joiner but make sure the joiner is not holding the spars above their normal position If it is, remove the joiner and sand it until it fits correctly D D 17 Remove the clamps and the joiner and apply a bead of epoxy along the spar edges Install the sides and hold them in as much pressure (clamps, clothespins, weights, etc ) as possible...
  • Page 24 FOR LEFT WING PANEL ONLY - SKIP TO STEP 21 WHEN CONSTRUCTING THE RIGHT WING PANEL! D D 20D Cm two pieces of 3/16" x 3/8" Basswood Servo Rail (SPT1F14) to fit belween the two W1B ribs and glue them in place on top of the 1/16"...
  • Page 25 SKIP TO STEP 22 WHEN CONSTRUCTING THE LEFT WING PANEL! D 20G Measure the width of your servos and cut six Wing Servo Rails from the 3/16" x 3/8" x 25" Basswood Servo Rail Strip (SPT1F14) that are as long as your servo is wide. DD 21.

  • Page 26: Build The Outer Wing Panel

    the fit, glue it in place with either med or thick CA or epoxy DD 3 Locale the 1/16" (W4 - W10) Outer Panel Ribs 1/4 balsa triangle along the spar and a fillet of glue along the LE (SPT1W03 & W04) and position them on the spar Glue the ribs in place with med or thick CA at the spar joint and a drop of thin CA at the sub TE joint Use the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular to the work surface...
  • Page 27 of 1/4" balsa (from tail wood) to the LE of the 2" piece of aileron as shown in photo it in place, just as you did for the inner panel, except start at ribs W6 and W9. Add med or thick CA to each relief notch to fill in DD 10 Trim and sand the 1/4 piece of balsa to match t h e any gaps.

  • Page 28: Join The Wing Panels

    not sanding any "sweep" (forward or backward tilt) into the wing. HINT - Set the panel on an "elevated" building surface an inch or so above the work surface and us the edge of the elevated surface to hold the sanding block perpendicular to the work surface as shown in the photo.
  • Page 29 DD 9 Drill a 13/64" hole down through the hole in the front wing bolt plate and through the 1/16 bottom sheeting Lightly sand the tops of the inner panel ribs and the spar to remove any D D 6 When satisfied with the fit, apply a generous bead of glue globs or uneven places epoxy or med or ihick CA to the spars and install the braces on...

  • Page 30: Install Aileron Servos

    1/32" past the edge of the hatch. This will allow space for the covering to wrap around these edges. Check your aileron servo to make sure it will fit between the rails. If not, carve a notch in the rails to clear the servo or space the rails farther apart and cut a new hatch to fit.
  • Page 31 removed later if needed Glue a piece of 1/4" balsa triangle stock around the plug to secure it DD 6 Turn the wing right side up and position the aileron servo on the hatch so the servo horn is centered in the slot Look down the wing to make sure the servo does not extend past the top of the ribs II if does you can move the servo forward and enlarge DD 11 C u t a s l o t i n t h e b o t t o m s h e e t i n g n e x t t o t h e f i r s t W 1 B...

  • Page 32: Install Flap Torque Rods

    torque rod will exit the bottom Cut a notch in the sub TE to allow INSTALL FLAP TORQUE RODS the torque rod to rotate forward Chamfer end Twist to here Original Position DD 1 Notice there is a "right" and a "left" torque rod Twist each rod to match the sketch above (to allow the correct flap movement) Use a small file or very fine sandpaper to de-burr the very tip of the unthreaded end of each torque rod...

  • Page 33: Aileron/Flap Assembly

    some left over tail wood). Glue the scrap piece of wood to the LE of the Flap/Inner TE to add 1/4" to the TE. Sand the scrap piece to match the contour of the TE. photo. Sand the LE'S to blend in with the ailerons/flaps and round off the corner as shown in the inset.

  • Page 34: Fuselage Assembly

    D 9. Trial fit the two wing halves together using the wing joiner. Sand the root of each panel if necessary to achieve a nice close joint between the two wings. If there are large gaps fill them with scrap balsa or filler. FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLE FUSE SIDES You'll need the following items:...

  • Page 35: Frame-Up The Fuselage

    D 7. Sand the edges of the fuse sides to eliminate any rough edges or glue but be careful not to sand any dips into the fuse. FRAME-UP THE FUSELAGE D D 3. Glue the 3/32" Die-Cut Balsa Rear Fuse Doubler (SPT1F07) in place making sure it lines up with the edges of the You'll need the following items: fuse side at the rear of the doubler where the arrows in the photo...
  • Page 36 BB2. Sand the plate if needed to make it fit. Apply med. or thick drawn on the plan. The 1/8" ply bottom should be installed with CA to the bottom of the plate and press it in place. Do not allow the four towhook hole marks DOWN so you can tell where to drill the fuse sides to become glued to the bottom yet! the towhook holes after the fuse is assembled.
  • Page 37 IMPORTANT - Read this whole paragraph before gluing anything in place! fuse. When satisfied with its f i t apply a bead of med or thick CA along the 1/8" balsa stringers, the fuse doublers, formers F6 and F7 and the fuse sides and glue it in place. D 10.
  • Page 38 D 11 Sand the fuse sides and bottom flush with the front of former F1 and glue the 1-7/8" Balsa Nose Block (SPT1F10) in place with med or thick CA The bottom of the nose block should overlap the fuse bottom by about 1/32" to allow for sanding to final shape.

  • Page 39: Assemble The Cockpit/Canopy

    D 20. Use your sanding block with medium grit sandpaper to chamfer (slightly round) the ends of the 1/4" x 3-1/2" Hardwood Wing Dowels (DOWEL030). Center the 1/4" wing dowels in the holes in the fuse but do not glue them until after the fuse is covered.
  • Page 40 D 6. Tint the Canopy (CANPY048) if you wish, using regular clothing dye you can buy at the grocery store (powdered Rit, etc). Use very warm water (warmer than you can leave your hand in) but do not use very hot water or the canopy may deform. The warmer the water and the longer you leave the canopy in the dye, the darker the tint will be.

  • Page 41: Final Assembly

    of the rear aligner and near the ends of the front aligner and carefully slide the canopy into place. Push down on the canopy to force the aligners against the cockpit base (with the canopy aligned with the fuse sides) and hold it until the glue has cured. Carefully remove the canopy and securely glue the aligners in place with more CA.

  • Page 42: Mount The Tail Surfaces

    D 3 Rubber band or bolt the wing onto the fuse making sure the wing is the major factor on a sailplane, we will only be it is square and centered with respect to the fuse concerned with it Here is how to do it Assemble the wing and set it on a flat surface with both wing tips level Let go of the wing and notice which wing tip drops Do this several times and if the same wing tip keeps...

  • Page 43: Final Sanding

    (preventing stalls) at slow speeds but it cuts down on the wing efficiency at normal speeds The SPIRIT 100's wing is designed to fly well at slow Securely seal all edges Make sure the edges are firmly...

  • Page 44: Hinge The Control Surfaces

    D 1. Set the wing so an inner panel is resting on a flat surface. plans as a reference for positioning the horns (Rudder on the left, Any warp (twist) will show up by causing a corner of the panel to elevator on the bottom).
  • Page 45 two servo horns with the arms facing opposite directions as the pushrod wire where it crosses the hole in the control horn. shown on the plans. Operate the transmitter sticks to make sure Remove the pushrod from the fuse and make a Z-bend in the wire the servo horns turn freely without hitting each other or the fuse with the first bend starting where the marks are.
  • Page 46 (Make sure the arm is in its neutral position - approx. 15 - 20 neutral position (the servo arm should be rotated approx. 20 to 30 degrees forward). Make a Z-bend in the wire with the first bend degrees rearward), mark where the flap linkage crosses the outer starting where the mark is.

  • Page 47: Install The Spoilers

    If your radio is equipped with "endpoint adjustments" you the sailplane to "tuck under" or dive when its flying speed may set the throws from the transmitter increases If you fly the SPIRIT 100 with its CG behind the spar...

  • Page 48: Final Hookups And Checks

    (usually only contest flying), pay close attention and do not let it Attach the 6-32 Threaded Towhook (WBNT154) to the gain excessive speed. If it does tuck under and you have plenty bottom of the fuse by threading a 6-32 Nut (NUTS010) and a #6 of altitude, give the plane a little down elevator and allow it to go Washer (WSHR004) all the way onto the towhook and screwing on under.

  • Page 49: Range Check Your Radio

    Try to find an experienced pilot to help you with your first of spectators until it has been proven to be airworthy by having flights. Although the SPIRIT 100 is very easy to fly, an experi- been previously successfully flight tested.

  • Page 50: Your First Hi-Start Launch

    (pull the stick back) as plane a healthy push forward to get it flying and it will climb up the plane nears the ground. The SPIRIT 100 will continue to fly like a kite. You should not have to touch the elevator during the launch but use the rudder stick to keep it going straight up.

  • Page 51: Flaps, Camber Changing And

    The forward position is the "panic" position When the sailplane is low and encounters lift, don't panic, just hit the switch The SPIRIT 100 will really slow up and will thermal "on a dime" This Practice flying directly into the wind (upwind of yourself)

  • Page 52: Thermal Soaring

    approaches a thermal, the wing tip that reaches the rising air first updrafts of over 5,000 feel per minute (that's over 50 miles/hour will be lifted before the opposite wing lip This causes the plane straight up') These strong thermals can rip a plane apart or carry to "bank"...

  • Page 53: Pointers For Contest Flying

    make soaring challenging "Sink" is usually not as strong as the quickly or gently you may miss it if you are not paying close thermals in the same area, but it can be very strong Down drafts attention If you find a productive thermal don't leave it because of many hundreds of feet per minute are common on a good your helper tells you someone else has found a different one soaring day These down drafts can make a sailplane look like it...

  • Page 54: Slope Landings

    The SPIRIT 100 has a neat feature not found in any other sailplane kit - a built in ballast box. It is designed to hold up to 30 ounces of the self adhesive lead strips found at your local hobby shop.

  • Page 55: Parts List

    SPIRIT 100 PARTS LIST PART# QTY. DESCRIPTION PART# DESCRIPTION QTY. PACKED LOOSE IN KIT SPT1A06 SUB-PACK. LONG STICKS BAL141 1/4" x 24" Balsa Triangle SPT1S01 1/4" X 1/2" X 30" Balsa Tail Frame CANPY048 Clear Canopy SPT1S04 1/8" X 1/4" X 30" Balsa Tail Ribs SPT1F01 1/8"...

  • Page 56: 2-View Drawing

    TWO-VIEW DRAWING Use this to design your trim scheme...

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