Download Print this page

Old School Model Works Sport Air 40 Construction Manual

Advertisement

Quick Links

Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fi t the parts together to make sure they
fi t properly. If necessary trim to fi t.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed at two different times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-fl yable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in fi rst-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components
(electronics,
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
Wingspan: 58 in. • Airframe Length: 43.5 in.
Recommended Weight: 4.5 - 5.5 pounds (RTF)
4 ch. radio • Power: 600+ watt, 4s 3200mAh (.35-.46 glow)
batteries,
wheels,
etc.)
See our web site for more info.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you're not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
fl ying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Skill Level
A Good
All-Around
Model
to Build
and Fly.

Advertisement

loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the Sport Air 40 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works Sport Air 40

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working • If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
  • Page 2: Included Items

    WARNING • Inspect your model before every fl ight to ensure it is airworthy. • Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an interference problem. READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL • Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your selected fl ight area.
  • Page 3 Whether you're hinging, this manual and online.  mounting, gluing, sanding, All photos shown in this manual are of different Sport Air 40 soldering, or installing, prototypes. Several pieces may have changed slightly with the chances are we've got a improvements we’ve made, so parts may look a little different in...
  • Page 4 Let’s begin with the easy stuff first to get you warmed up. Step 8 - Rudder Assembly (VF11) We'll start by building the tail surfaces of your Sport Air 40. Locate VF11 from BP1 and glue it to VF9, where the two pieces touch.
  • Page 5 E6, making sure it's flat and Now set the vertical fin and rudder assemblies aside as we flush with the surface of E6. begin construction on the Sport Air 40's stab and elevator. Step 21 - Elevator Assembly (E8) Prepare your work area Locate both E8s from BP2.
  • Page 6 Now set the horizontal stab and elevator assemblies aside n n Step 30 - Wing Assembly (SW5B) as we begin construction on the Sport Air 40's STARBOARD Locate one SW5B from BP13. This is glued wing panel. in between R8 and R7, in the cutouts on the rear of the ribs.
  • Page 7 n n n n Step 35 - Wing Assembly (SW4A, SW4B) Step 43 - Wing Assembly (SW2B) Locate one SW4A from BP14 and SW4B from Locate SW2B from BP13. This is glued in BP12 and BP13. Glue these to R5 rib you just between the R4 and R3 ribs, in the cutouts on installed.
  • Page 8 - R1, R2, and This is something new I figured out and have included in the R3. Here are the Sport Air 40 - it's a drill guide to help perfectly drill the hole for before and after the wing's leading edge dowels.
  • Page 9 making it flush with the webs. ribs that it covers. Once you get to the open area between the R1 and R3 ribs, you'll Once that piece is in place, trim the make sure that you don't push the top spar in too far. Doing so will second piece of sheeting to length, make it impossible to install the dihedral brace later on.
  • Page 10 Glue the sheeting in place n n Step 64 - Wing Assembly (LG3) up against the leading edge Locate two LG3s from LP1 and LP2. sheeting and down against the You'll make a thicker LG3 by gluing portion of the R1-R5 ribs that them together.
  • Page 11 measure and cut two lengths of 5/16" balsa that will span the n n Step 76 - Wing Assembly (T14) distance between the R6 ribs. Locate three T14s from BP1. Test fit them forward and aft of the hatch, leaving just a little Two are glued on top of the outer edge room for clearance of the covering later on.
  • Page 12 Put the hatch aside as it's time for the last big build for the Locate F3 from LP8 and both F3As from LP5. Sport Air 40 - the fuselage. The F3As are glued to each side of the F3. Make sure they are perfectly aligned, and try Step 94 - Fuselage Assembly (FS2, FS3) to keep glue out of the pre-cut holes.
  • Page 13 Step 103 - Fuselage Assembly (F5, TR3) Step 111 - Fuselage Assembly (port fuselage side) Locate F5 from LP4 and TR3 from LP7. Now locate the other fuselage side Before assembling these, cut out the bottom (port), and it's time to attach it to the cross-member of F5.
  • Page 14 Step 116 - Fuselage Assembly (stab framing) Step 121 - Fuselage Assembly (tail surfaces) Using a little of the leftover 1/4" square Now the tail assembly is offered up to balsa, measure and cut two lengths to the fuselage. Again, this will require a form the horizontal stab supports as bit of test fitting, as you might need to shown here.
  • Page 15 Step 125 - Fuselage Assembly (pushrod time) Step 130 - Fuselage Assembly (cheeks - part one) Before the bottom sheeting is installed, we Locate both FS6s and FS7s recommend installing the elevator and rudder from BP19. pushrod guides inside the fuselage. Pushrods are You will glue one FS6 to one not included, and we recommend a set of flexible FS7, making sure to note...
  • Page 16 Step 135 - Fuselage Assembly (wing bolt holes) To cover the Sport Air 40 as shown in our prototypes, it took a With the wing aligned, drill two 3/16” holes for the wing bolts, couple rolls of white and then one roll each of the other colors using the pre-cut holes in WH1 as a guide.
  • Page 17 make a mark on the nose gear wire. Also, mark them into the backer plate from the other side. Tighten the screws Mark and cut off excess wire where the wire should be trimmed off, above the to fi rmly hold the control horn in place, but do not crush the wood extending past mounting block.
  • Page 18 This is especially important because of the In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final assembly or material various motor/battery combinations that can be used. used for the final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled product.
  • Page 19 Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 19...
  • Page 20 Page 20 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual...
  • Page 21 This manual is © Copyright 2025, Old School Model Works. All Rights Reserved. For more information on all of our other products, as well as the latest news from Old School Model Works: Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com You can reach us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/oldschoolmodelworks Instagram: www.instagram.com/oldschoolmodelworks/...
  • Page 23 APPENDIX B...