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Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fi t the parts together to make sure they
fi t properly. If necessary trim to fi t.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed at two different times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-fl yable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in fi rst-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components
(electronics,
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
Specifi cations: Wingspan: 30 in. • Wing Area: 165 sq in.
Airframe Length: 24.5 in. • Weight: 7-8 oz. framed; 17-20 oz. (rtf)
batteries,
wheels,
etc.)
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you're not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
fl ying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
www.oldschoolmodels.com

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Summary of Contents for Old School Model Works DART

  • Page 1 • Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working • If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own this model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
  • Page 2: Included Items

    WARNING • Inspect your model before every fl ight to ensure it is airworthy. • Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an interference problem. READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL • Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your selected fl ight area.
  • Page 3 When removing the laser-cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice the parts are held in place by several small "tabs." These tabs #1 - We've done everything we can to make the Dart a fun are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it diffi cult to and easy to assemble kit.
  • Page 4 - like the Dart. gravitational forces act on the plane. LEADING EDGE - (L.E.) - the front edge of the Taildraggers require you to use the rudder when wing, tailplane, or rudder.
  • Page 5 Dry-fit this first! The front of TR1 (LP2) used to vertically align any of the parts (the side with all the circular holes) in the construction of your Dart. LP1 also slides into the center of F2 (LP1) on includes a foot piece that can be used...
  • Page 6 place glue along the edge of the F2 cutout that touches TR1, side tabs will fit into the pre-cut slots of the FS1 side frames. and then re-assemble the pieces. Make sure that F2 is perfectly Note that you'll have to apply a bit of force to bend the fuselage perpendicular to TR1 - remember that 90°...
  • Page 7 We've also included several PS pieces cut into BP2 and BP3. Although we’ve done everything possible to engineer the Dart so it As we purposely made the holes in the formers a bit larger to...
  • Page 8 Step 26 - Wing Assembly (SS, spar) Step 30 - Wing Assembly (R2) Tape the wing plan over Locate both R2s from LP1. These are your building surface glued in place, on each side of R1, and cover it with waxed as shown on the plans.
  • Page 9 towards R4 and down near the spar. will allow you to rest the 5/16" strip Glue SH2 to R4 and to the rear edge on each rib and position its height of the spar as shown. Then glue R5 perfectly. to SH2, making sure SW2's tab is Now you will glue this strip to the completely inserted into the pre-cut...
  • Page 10 Step 46 - Wing Assembly (Lower leading edge sheeting) Step 50 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge fi ller) Locate the uncut 1/16" x 4" x 36" balsa sheet. Locate the left over 1/4" x 3/4" x Cut this sheet in half to make two 1/16" x 4" x 18" sheets. Now care 36"...
  • Page 11 Dart. edges are blended into the ribs, continuing the curvature of the It's pretty simple how this works.
  • Page 12 Use the included 3/32” i.d. wheel To cover the Dart as shown in our prototypes, it took a few rolls collars to hold each wheel (not because there were four colors involved. But one roll of iron-on included) on the axles.
  • Page 13 D. Pick one end and measure We mounted the receiver and ESC using a bit of self-adhesive hook- 3/4" down  and make a and-loop (not included). Bend here. bend at this angle: Step 77 - Pushrod installation Now it's time to mount all of the control horns, one for each control surface.
  • Page 14 If your radio has flaperon mixing you might want to add that to We recommend balancing it at the forward point for the first your Dart. It can allow you fly even slower when cruising, shorter flights, then moving it backward if you'd like it to be a little more takeoffs, and slower landings.
  • Page 15 APPENDIX A Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15...
  • Page 16 This manual is © Copyright 2024, Old School Model Works. All Rights Reserved. For more information on all of our other products, as well as the latest news from Old School Model Works: Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com You can reach us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/oldschoolmodelworks Instagram: www.instagram.com/oldschoolmodelworks/...