Black & Decker BES702 Instructions Manual page 14

ENGLISH
K
Switch action (Fig. )
Caution! Before plugging in the tool, always check to see that
the switch trigger (18) actuates properly and returns to the
"OFF" position when released.
To start the tool, move the safety release lever (19) to the
u
right with your index finger.
Press the switch trigger (18).
u
To stop the tool, release the switch trigger (18).
u
Warning! Never use tool without a fully operative switch
trigger.
Any tool with an inoperative switch is HIGHLY DANGEROUS
and must be repaired before usage.
Use of Cut line System
Note: The mitre saw must be connected to a power source.
The Cut line System is equipped with an on/off switch (20).
The Cut line System is independent of the mitre saw's trigger
switch.
The light does not need to be on in order to operate the saw.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood:
Turn on the Cut line system, then pull down on the operat-
u
ing handle (17) to bring the saw blade close to the wood.
The shadow of the blade will appear on the wood.
Align the pencil line with the edge of the blade's shadow.
u
You may have to adjust the mitre or bevel angles in order
to match the pencil line exactly.
(Fig. L)
Crosscuts
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any
angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the
zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold
the wood firmly on the table and against the fence.
With the rail lock knob tightened, turn on the saw by squeez-
ing the trigger switch (18).
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the
blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45º for making corners, but
can be set anywhere from zero to 47º left or 47° right. Make
the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood,
match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too
long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to
determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and
recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used
technique.
Body and hand position (Fig. M – M3)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the
miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
14
(Original instructions)
Never place hands near cutting area.
Place hands no closer than 152 mm from the blade. Hold
the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released
and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT
YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.
DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE M2 and
M3.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the
guard louvers when following a pencil line.
Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. M4)
To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the
down position with the lock down pin. Place a square
against the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth.
Loosen the bevel lock knob and ensure the arm is firmly
against the 0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment
screw with the 10 mm spanner (not provided) as necessary so
that the blade is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured
with the square.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes and other
four-sided projects (Fig. N, N1, N2)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a "feel" for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one
shown in Figure N. Sketch A in Figure N1 shows a joint made
by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the
miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel ad-
justment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the
broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against
the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and
left with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting trim molding and other frames (Fig. N1)
Sketch B in Figure N1 shows a joint made by setting the miter
arm at 45º to miter the two boards to form a 90º corner. To
make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the miter arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the
broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the
fence.
Figures N1 and N2 are for four-sided objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel
angles.
This chart gives the proper angles for a variety
of shapes.