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3) Engine Installation
The engine installation, as long as you chose a Moki 250, is as easy as it gets: Bolt it on!
The 3 M6 T-nuts are already pressed in, so that you can really bolt on the engine. Just the right
thrust should be set with washers, before you permanently fix it. In a warbird too much right thrust
looks awkward, so we went with a small amount of maybe 1.5 degree. That, however, is enough
for the 2-bladed props flown on this airplane. Just make sure that the prop shaft is right in the
center of the cowl.
The openings for the linkages of throttle and choke are already milled in the firewall. The servos
for choke and throttle are mounted in our milled plywood side mounts, which then are bolted on
the base plate under, and beside the rudder servo with 2 M4 bolts each.
the cowl mount is already done in the factory, it is just highly recommended to use a thread locker
compound to make sure the cowling bolts don't come loose during flight.
The fuel tank and the smoke tank (if you opt for the mess) are placed on top of the central shelf
right behind the firewall. That means, when the fuselage is laying on its back, BELOW the central
wood shelf. Stuff them with medium density foam. For the fuel we used a 40 oz Dubro tank, for
the smoke 32 oz. Both tanks fit in these compartments.
Do not worry about the fuel being a little in front of the CG. It is much better than causing the
engine to run lean because of long fuel lines. Also you need all the space around the CG for the
cockpit later.
There is a special CARF AT-6 ring muffler available from Moki/Airworld. They manufacture it
especially for this airplane. You can order your engine with this ring muffler right away, or you can
order the muffler as an upgrade package. You just need to cut an opening into the side of the
fuselage, right where the firewall has the half round cutout. Measure with your engine how far you
have to cut back.
Plumbing the tanks, rigging the linkages for the servos, installing the engine and the cowl should
be something you've done before, so we do not anticipate any difficulties at all here.
For cooling of the engine we recommend to use the Airworld/Moki cooling baffle (it is highly
effective) and to cut a few holes in the firewall to allow a bit more exit air. The ring behind the cowl
is very narrow, and the additional openings at the bottom of the fuselage are marginal. 2 2"
diameter holes in the firewall, where they fit, will help discharging cooling air. Now, of course, you
have to make sure that the air can exit the fuselage, so you need to see that the fuselage has
openings at least twice the opening surface as the holes in the firewall. We have cut exit holes in
the wheel wells, where nobody sees them.
4) Flap Servos
The flap linkage is quite unique, but very difficult to adjust. it can take a factory worker several
hours, to adjust the linkage so that it doesn't bind and runs the flaps symmetrically. Do not re-
adjust anything if not absolutely necessary! The factory setting is basically exactly what works
best. All parts are movable, there is a reason that the threaded ends, for instance, are loose in
their threads. The only thing you should do is put a little grease to where there is movement.
Installing the Servos is very straight forward. Any Standard size servo should fit in the side
mounts. If there is a little rework, please do that carefully and precisely. Once the servos are finally
installed and everything is working, take them out one more time and use a few drops of silicone
on the servo side to help holding it in place and avoid even the slightest movement in side
mounts, which only clamp the servo tight. Servo horns should be aluminum, with ball links, they
should be installed so that they can get the linkage 100% load free when the flaps are retracted. It
might require a little pressure to close the flaps against some tension of the 2m long flap hinge
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