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that they penetrate the main horizontal gear mount, not only the wood spacer! For the M5 bolts
through the spar you should use large washers, or even a piece of carbon plate, which should be
glued to the front surface of the spar. In later models there is a milled carbon plate in the kit for
this purpose.
Now cycle the gear once more and make sure that it runs smoothly from end point to end point.
Once you are satisfied with the movement, retract the gear, fully tighten the grab schrews, put the
drill bit included with the gear unit in a battery drill and then drill all the way through the trunnion
and torque tube. You can do that in the plane, if you make sure that you can't drill through the
upper wing skin... Or you remove the gear and do this in a drill press. Once the hole is cleaned
from burr, push the rolled pin in. Please be assured that this work step and the final step of your
gear installation is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL! If you do not pin this connection, the strut hold might
shift in the trunnion at a less then perfect landing with side load on the gear. Consequences will
be that the wheel, after the next retraction process, will hit the wheel well, put tension on the gear
mechanics and it will NOT UNLOCK anymore when you try to put the gear down for your next
landing. This always results in airframe damage!
Installation of the gear controller should be in the center wing. The gear battery (2S LiPo,
800-1000 mAh will be enough for a whole weekend and more) should also be mounted right close
to the gear controller. There is no programming necessary, as long as you have your gear channel
set to +/- 100%. You should unplug the battery if you store the plane for more than a few days,
since the controller has a very little amp draw also when switched off.
Connect the gear doors to the strut's eyelet in the front of the strut, at the bottom end of the outer
oleo tube.
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