DeWalt DW714 Original Instructions Manual page 19

Body and Hand Position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre
saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
• Never place your hands near the cutting area.
• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and
the blade has completely stopped.
• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that
you can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands.
• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly
to the side of the saw blade.
• View through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
BASIC SAW CUTS
Vertical Straight Cross Cut (fig. 1, 2, 25)
NOTE: Always use 254 mm saw blades with 30 mm (Note: some
regions are 25.4mm) arbor holes to obtain the desired cutting
capacities.
1. Loosen the mitre lock knob (e) and depress the mitre detent (t) to
release the mitre arm.
2. Engage the mitre latch at the 0° position and tighten the mitre lock
knob (e).
3. Place the wood to be cut against the fence (c, v).
4. Take hold of the operating handle (a) and depress the head lock up
release lever (cc) to release the head.
5. Press the trigger switch (l) to start the motor.
6. Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and
enter the plastic kerf plate (s).
7. After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw
blade to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to
its upper rest position.
Vertical Mitre Cross-cuts (fig. 1, 2, 26)
1. Loosen the mitre lock knob (e) and depress the mitre detent (t).
Move the head left or right to the required angle.
2. The mitre detent will automatically locate at 0º, 15º, 22.5º , 30ºand
45º. if any intermediate angle or 52º is required hold the head firmly
and lock by tightening the mitre lock knob (e).
3. Always ensure that the mitre lock lever is locked tightly before
cutting.
4. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with
a small off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-
cut is to the side of the blade with the greater angle to the
fence; i.e. left mitre, off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut
to the left.
Bevel Cuts (fig. 1, 2, 27)
Bevel angles can be set from 0º right to 45° left and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right
or left.
1. Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (k) and slide the upper
part of the left side fence (v) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen
the bevel clamp knob (p) and set the bevel as desired.
2. Tighten the bevel clamp knob (p) firmly.
3. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of Cuts
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower for
wood, a sharp (80-120 tooth carbide) blade and a slower for aluminum,
even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while
cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade
come to a full stop before raising the arm. If small fibres of
wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece
of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made.
Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when
finished.
Clamping the Workpiece (fig. 3, 7, 38)
1. Whenever possible, clamp the wood/ aluminum to the saw.
2. For best results use the clamp (gg) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can
clamp to either side of the saw blade; remember to position your
clamp against a solid, flat surface of fence.
3. Mounting the clamp(fig. 7, 38):
Inserting the vertical clamp to the holes(mm) as shown in Figure 7,
then rotate to the right position.
If horizontal clamp is needed, please mounting the horizontal clamp
to the holes(qq) as shown in Figure 38.
WARNING: Always use a material clamp when cutting
non-ferrous metals.
WARNING: Always use both of vertical clamp and
horizontal clamp when cutting small pieces.
Support for Long Pieces (fig. 3, 8)
1. Always support long pieces.
2. For best results, use the extension work support (ii) to extend
the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as saw-horses or similar devices to keep
the ends from dropping.
3. Mounting the work support(fig. 8):
Use the supplied blade wrench(i) to loosen the screws.
Insert the work support to the holes(h).
Tighten the screws.
Cutting Aluminum Extrusion
WARNING: Never attempt to cut thick or round aluminum
extrusions. Thick aluminum extrusions may come loose
during operation and round aluminum extrusions cannot be
secured firmly with this tool.
When securing aluminum extrusions, use spacer blocks or pieces of
scrap as shown in the Fig.28 to prevent deformation of the aluminum.
Use a cutting lubricant when cutting the aluminum extrusion to prevent
build-up of the aluminum material on the blade.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and
Other Four-sided Projects (fig. 29, 30)
TRIM MOULDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel"
for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in figure 30. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
USING BEVEL ADJUSTMENT
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
USING MITRE ADJUSTMENT
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surface against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. 29, 30) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel
angle.
ENGLI SH
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