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When you are satisfied that the cable exit slot is positioned correctly, make a cut with your Dremel and cut off wheel.
The cut off wheel will cut the fuselage material with ease, so keep the tool steady You should now make up your pull/
pull cables. Start by doing one end only. Divide the cable supplied into two equal lengths. Fit the threaded cable eye-
lets into a ball link, and feed through the cable. The crimps supplied are spacious enough to pass the cable through
three times. By looping the cable around for a third pass through the crimp, you minimize the chances of the cable slip-
ping and pulling through the crimp. Once you have completed the crimp you may like to cover it with some heat shrink.
You can now pass the cable through the exit slot and fit the ball link to the rudder control horn.
If you are using the phenolic servo arm provided in the hardware pack, you can simply loop the cable through the slot
in the arm and crimp. If you elect to use an alloy arm, you can repeat the same process as you have already com-
pleted at the rudder end. Another item worth using is a SWB wire tensioner, these items make keeping the cables in
tension very simple.
Whichever type of arm you use the process to tension up the cables is pretty similar. It s important that you temporarily
plug in your rudder servo(s) to your receiver and centre them up using your sub trim. The final fitting of the cables is a
little easier if the servo(s) are powered up and centred. Using some masking tape, hold the rudder in place by taping
the boost tab at the fin. At this point you want to take care that you don t move the transmitter rudder stick. Now that
everything is in place and held in position, pull the cables taught and crimp.
Don t forget to leave room for tensioning adjustment at the ball link. You do not want everything wound right up and no
thread left to fine tune the cable tension
Sukhoi SU 31—2.75m/2.6m
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